FZ600 Resto - the hotrod XJ

OK so it's not quite an XJ but other then the YX Radian, it's as close as you can get. I think it qualifies for XJ tech chat but if others think it belongs in "other bikes" I'm ok with that. I always liked the 86-88 FZ6 and thought they were pretty cool. At the time the FZR came along I immediately ignored the FZ as it became so instantly obsolete. I had an 89 FZR track only bike (my avatar) and just loved hammering on that thing, some of the best fun riding a bike I ever had. Now I'm older I really love the retro FZ600, I can't think of any other 2-valve air cooled bike with this much handling prowess, or at least potential handling prowess as any 30 year old bike you find is going to need work. Mine is no exception, when I got it home I discovered a few surprises. I actually bought it site unseen, a friend local to the sale picked it up for me. The registration showed 13 previous owners before me. One summer it changed hands 3 times. It totally amazed me how the bike stayed as original as it was. It even had the original Yamaha grips which were so worn the one side was loose enough to come of in your hand. Common rookie bike still had the original valve cover gasket now hardened up and leaking oil everywhere. The carbs were leaking fuel when left in prime and the exhaust pipe was leaking at the head. Broken fairing parts were in a separate bag. Front tire was leaking air. Tank was leaking and had goop applied on outside - this was holding tight for now. The fuse box has the main fuse and I think the headlight fuses relocated into individual fuse holders tapped in with home wiring marrets, cracks in the fairing from cranking fasteners tight without the spacers to prevent this.
The good, as I said, pretty much as original as they come. Nice Corbin saddle, cool Kerker pipe, and it actually ran great. It was raining when I picked it up and the rear tire would break loose in 3rd gear and scream to redline, tremendous fun, a modern 600 I thought to myself would have me sideways and highsiding into the ditch if I kept on the throttle like that, ya this is gonna be fun!

My goal was to ride it and fix the issues with priority one at a time. This started in November 2013

 

someone mounted a Corbin saddle. Magazines at the time described the postage stamp OEM seat extremely uncomfortable. I find the Corbint actually not too bad, certainly tolerable for the length of rides I'm planning for this.

 

gas tank had hole repaired with epoxy. Was holding fuel when I first got it so this was a considered a lower priority

 

Dual headlights to mimic the endurance racers was all the rage in the late eighties

 

oil was freakin everywhere from leaking valve cover gasket.

 

37,000 kms on the clock. The British seem to rack up more miles than typical Canadian bikes, Classic Motorcycle Mechanics say XJ600 motor good for 100,000 miles before needing serious attention.

 

obligatory 16" front wheel common to mid-eighties sportbikes handles quicker than a shopping cart! Not so easy to find sporting rubber in 2016.

 

I tore into the carbs to fix the leaking float needles only to find #2 carb had a broken float pedestal. The repair was somewhat interesting as someone had drilled holes in the mating pieces to hold it back in. Every fastener in these carbs was buggered by inexperienced hands. I sourced a replacement bank at the local salvage yard only to find #2 carb float pedestal broken again. This set were just repaired with Belzona. The repair seemed to be holding so I left #2 float alone, dismantled the other 3 floats and cleaned up the carbs as best I could combining the best parts from the 2 banks. #2 leaked on this bank when left in prime also. OK I thought, just don't leave it in prime, move on to the next thing. I then measured the valves and found them all in tolerance, 2 right on the tight end but still in tolerance. Synced the carbs and had it running pretty good.

 

I still have the original forks from my 650 Seca sidecar, http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/highly-modded-650-seca.85760/#post-505494 which have Progressive Suspension springs in them. I tried fitting them into the FZ forks. Although they're both 36 mm fork tubes the 650 Seca springs were a smaller diameter and I didn't like they way they fit the FZ. I stuck the mushy FZ springs back in for now and put fresh 10 wt oil in them. Next I got some SS brake lines off ebay and installed them. I haven't installed the rear line yet as I'm planning to do it when I disassemble all the rear swing arm and shock linkages for inspection and re-greasing, likely this winter. I hated the faded red paint especially on the tank so I bought a roll of vinyl adhesive and just cut all the shapes to cover the red Yamaha decals. From a few feet away it looks like it came that way. I've actually had people ask me if it's a European grey import or something. Really easy to make any old Yamaha look different from the crowd, and its easily reversible, just peel it off and the Yamaha decals are still intact underneath. Last week I hoped to take it drag racing matched up against a friends stripped down wing doing mid 13's. Sounded like a fare match, however one block from my house it died and I couldn't get it restarted. I've just bought a 3rd bank of carbs and plan to restore this bank to perfection before remounting. I also just replaced the rubbers between the airbox and the carb inlets, mine were hard as rock and impossible to seal up. The replacements off ebay are supple and sealed up nice. Also replaced the valve cover gasket and the gas lines.
It's a fun bike, once I get all the little bugs worked out I'm hoping to regain the reliability. This is how she looks for now.

 

VERY good looking bike!

 

thanks chacal, unmolested FZ600's are becoming rare. Some of them which come up for sale around here look completely knackered after being passed from one head-banger to the next. I bought all the remnants of another FZ which was parted out. The kid bought it as his 1st bike, apparently there really wasn't much wrong but he thought he was going to restore it. He tore everything apart before realizing he lacked the skills to put it back.
Lower fairings are almost never seen, mine have been repaired it appears more than once. Airtech sell fiberglass replacements pretty reasonably priced.
Classic Motorcycle Mechanics are currently running a series of articles restoring one for the race track. Apparently there is a vintage class in the UK where these XJ powered FZ's are the class overdog. If any UK listers are aware of this I'd be curious to learn the rules. Vintage rules in Canada I think group them into Period 4 which already allows FZR600's.

 

Another thing I had to fix was the broken exhaust stud in the picture. It was broken off and missing the nut. I was lucky to have enough thread left to tighten 2 nuts together, then I just screwed it out with a wrench.
I picked up another exhaust where I bought the 3rd set of carbs. It looks like the OEM 4-1 but has a shinier Yoshimura can. It looks better than the Kerker.
I know the Kerker works well so I'll get the new carbs set up with it. Then l'll see which one runs better and go with it.
The parts I bought from the kid came with a 4-1 of unknown origin, it attaches by springs & ferrules which I didn't get with it.
Among his parts was a brand new OEM crank cap which replaced the scratched one below.
What appears like rust on the frame was just motor oil and dirt.

 

A long, long, time ago the FZ was on my radar. I passed because the magazines all called the engine buzzy. Never listen to magazines about what's buzzy and what isn't; you pass up good stuff that way.
Nice resto.

 

Here is a pic of the original airbox to carb connectors. They were hard and not sealing to the carbs. The motor was likely sucking unfiltered air for some time which is concerning. I was able to find used replacements off ebay, the seller said they were still supple and lucky for me they were. The airbox came right out even with the carbs still in place.

 

Has anyone ever come across an FZ400? An old guy I used to work for had one (along with a matching FZ600 like this one), and I have always wanted one of those.

 

Yes I read the FZ600 was basically an FZ400 with the XJ/FJ600 stuffed in. I have never seen one in the flesh. Lot's of FZR400's in Canada but they're just mini FZR600's with aluminum frames. Have a look at this youtube series. I'd still rather ride the FZ600 with the grunty long-stroke XJ mill.

 

I've just always had a thing for smaller motors. Feel like superman when you wring them out. Why I still love tearing around an MX track on a hot 125 every once in a while.

 

I hear you Drew. I recently sold my Yamaha MT-01 which was a gigantic 1670 cc sport bike. I regret it only because it was so rare and so very very cool. There comes a point when too much motor delivers diminishing returns. I can wring the stuffing out of this FZ.

 

Almost a third of the displacement and suprisingly the fz600 has almost the same 1/4 mile time. I'm sure the torque figures are heavily swayed toward the MT01 though.

 

The MT delivered 110 ft-lbs of torque but only 90 hp. The motor was dominant, but proved a huge liability in corners. Enough talk about it as I'm starting to regret that sale again.

 

That's why you should NEVER SELL ANYTHING!

 

Can you explain that to my wife?

 

I thought the reason for the FZ popularity was an aircooled requirement in that class but it seems not if you check the guide here.. http://www.crmc.co.uk/eligibility/ another good magazine that cover this race series is Practical Sportbike. For fairing parts you could also try Mid Norfolk Mouldings http://www.midnorfolkmouldings.co.uk/our-products/. I bought some bits for my FZ750 there and the guy (Paul I think) was very helpful. He'll even make moulds from OEM parts if you can get them too him.

I was after a 600 myself by ended up with a 750 as they were more plentiful (maybe due to the racing..) Ironically early FZ750s (1FN models)are now in demand for the same reason.

 

I've been looking for a replacement windscreen for several years now. Not much comes up for the 86-88 FZ600.
I searched for 89 FZR400 and found this Chinese one for $25 new on e-bay.
The black trim still needs to be painted on. I can handle that.

 

I finally got around to opening up my 3rd bank of carbs. Hooray! no broken float pedestals. The carbs apparently came off a running bike and it certainly looks like someone had cleaned them.
I decided to just do a brief inspection of the components and give them a shot. I learned a lot reading the Church of Clean on this forum but I'm still reluctant to split the bank apart.

 

#1 float needle was missing the wire mesh screen so I pulled a replacement out of another bank.

 

These 2 float barrels look identical but they are not. The float needle is actually bottomed out on both of these. I found another replacement which matched my other 3.

 

As anyone who has tried hooking up float level hose to the Mikuni carbs knows it is not easy to find something gas tight to fit the recessed socket the bowls have.
I found inserting the insulators from these electrical fittings gave just the exact size and stiffness to some spare battery hose I had.

 

Son of a Diddly! #2 and 3 floats are leaking. I also noticed the fuel tube between 1 & 2 was dripping so I might be splitting the bank after all.
At least my float bowl inserts are gas tight. Grrrr!

 

The little screens aren't needed if you put an inline fuel filter on.

You will want to split the rack. I'td be a shame to find that there is a leaking throttle shaft seal, and have to pull the carbs off the bike again.

You will want to use new rubber parts.

 

absolutely k-moe, only one way to do it right. Might as well get a new set of float needles and seats to. Anyone have luck lapping them some how?

 

Valve lapping compound on the needles (on solid brass needles ONLY). Lap them just like valves.

Valve lapping compound on a q-tip (when using viton-tipped nedles) to polish the seat.

 

Or on a golf tee----

 

Well I got the carbs completely stripped down. This was the 1st time I've split carbs from the rack after following the advice here. I did struggle with one butterfly screw but just hammered a small flat screw driver into the head and I got enough on it to get it, phew!
Now I'm on to pulling the swing arm and rear linkage while I wait for Len to process my order for carb parts. I've acquired a 2nd set of body work but most of the decals are 1987 model which are slightly different. The main fairing piece is perfect and interchangeable with the 88 cosmetics, that's what I was really after. I bought new carb boots and rear wheel bearings for my spare rear wheel. I want a dedicated rear for drag strip use using up my old tire stock. I'm planning to order some Pirelli Sport Demons as they along with the Bridgestone BT45 seem to be the only 2 options for 100/90-16 front and 120/80-18 rear. Other manufacturers offer the front but not the rear, or the rear but not the front. There are some very expensive Avon's for racing but the Pirelli's might have to do the occasional track day.

 

Next time use a set of JIS screwdrivers

 

I have a Motion Pro T-handle with the 3 JIS bits. I only recently acquired this, again thanks to you guys on the Forum here.
I buggered up my share of screws over the years, not knowing any better.

 

Ok. For everyone else....be aware that the backs of the Mikuni butterfly screws are peened, and it's a good idea to use a small file to remove the peen before removing the screws

 

I have a CBR900RR rear shock on a couple of mine. They are almost a bolt in except for the bolt sizes for the upper and lower shock mounts. I turned a bushing for the bots as I didn't want to drill the holes in the frame bigger. I have also run CBR600F2 wheels on mine with a 120-17 front and a 160 -17 rear tires.

 

I've read about the CBR900 shock conversion on the net, perhaps they were your posts. If I understand correctly, you used the FZ shock bolts with custom bushing for the larger eyes. What year Fireblade?
I'm surprised you fit a 160 without offsetting the drive sprocket. For now I'm trying to keep it original but already plan to replace the fork springs obviously. I could have bought (and probably should have) a complete project someone started.
He had a complete FZR600 front end, not sure what 17" rear he had. How many FZ's do you have?

 

I don't recall any particular year for the 900, as long as it wasn't the 929 or 954. I converted to a 520 chain by using the front sprocket from a XT250 or something like that and using a GS500 rear sprocket on a VF500F rear carrier with the cbr600F2 wheel. It all lined up pretty well and the chain just clears the edge of the tire. I was using the Bridgestone BT003. The 150 fit better, but the profile ended up wrong with that width rim and I couldn't get all the way to the edge of the tire.
I have 3 of the FZ's. One is mostly stock with the CBR shock and progressive fork springs, 1 is a project with FZR1000 USD forks and a CBR shock with The FZR 1000 Front wheel and a CBR1000 rear. It is not together or anything yet, mostly just mock up. The other is just a parts bike with an engine that will probably run that I think I might stick in my XJ550 race bike and stick an FJ600 swingarm on it that I have laying around.. I haven't messed too much with them recently.

 

I pulled the swingarm to inspect and lubricate the suspension linkage. The last link to remove from the swingarm is in the pic.
This one has me worried as I haven't broken the bolt holding both sides together yet. I applied as much force as I thought I could without snapping it.
I'll have to try some heat on this before I force it anymore. This link is almost seized and definitely needs lube.
The swing arm has a nasty scar inside on the chain side. After I cleaned 30 years of chain lube it looks like someone rode with a loose axle at one point.
It's not deep enough to compromise strength but it might interfere with proper chain adjustment.
I'm going to fill it in with some plastic metal I bought and sand the surface smooth.

 

For that seized bolt. Heat, apply candle wax, remove heat, allow the wax to wick into the fastner, repeat a time or two. Remove the nut when it's all still hot. If the nut is still stuck get a can of air-duster, invert it (in a well ventelated area), and drip the refrigrant onto the bolt. This will shrink the bolt, further busting up the rust. It should brake free while the bolt is still cold, but might need another application of heat if it's really corroded soild.

 

thanks k-moe, I wouldn't have thought of the candle wax. The bolt is screwed into a steel forging which should resist any damage from heating it.
Thinking about the scarring at the axle end, I'm not sure how this could even happen? Perhaps a PO assembled the bike a very short while without the wheel spacer, not sure.

 

It is best to use lavender scented candle wax. It will keep you calm and relaxed.

 

I started the repair on my fuse box. I found a much more rugged 4x fuse holder.
I just cut the bottom out of the Yamaha fuse box and epoxy'd in the new piece.
With the cover on it will look completely stock.

 

I'm not sure about either shock I have. The one in front was on the bike. The one behind came from the remnants of the parted out bike.
The rubber cone to absorb the shock at the bottom of the stroke has nearly disintegrated.
The rubber foam at the top of the shock is pretty rough on both. I think it just keeps the big adjuster on top concentric.
This bike has a remote belt operated pre-load adjuster.
Maybe I'll start looking for a CBR900 shock. Some after market exotica would add bling.
Believe it or not there is a brand new Ohlins on ebay for this FZ. It's worth more than the entire bike LOL.

 

I just discovered a difference between the 86 FZ600 and the 88. The lower shock mount had a simple eye arrangement in 86. The 1988's have a clevis arrangement on the bottom. A CBR900 shock won't fit unless I change the bottom link as well. For now I've simply lubricated all the joints and put the same shock back in. I'm not sure which way the 87 is.
A little heat was all that was needed to break loose the last bolt in the linkage. The preload was cranked all the way so I left it there.

This pick is a 1986 FZ600 rear shock and bottom link. The 1988 arrangement has an extra pin in the linkage and different shock.

 

The clevis and eyes should be able to be swapped from one shock to the other. Typically they unscrew from the piston rod.

 

That explains why one shock I have is all scarred on the rod from a pipe wrench or something.
This only helps if the Yamaha clevis end screws onto the Honda piston rod.
If not, the easiest way to mount the CBR shock is to also convert to the 86 FZ linkage.
Seriously, I have it back together now, I really need to ride it to see if the shock presents any short comings.