Valve clearance - exhaust side

What is a shim pool

 

An exchange system where you get the shims that you need, and the pool gets the shims that you no-longer need, all for the cost of postage.

 

Very cool!
Thank you

 

Does the pool send the tool or what is the best place to purchase the valve adjustment tool? Thanks

 

I used the magnet on a stick method to take out the shims. It made it really easy. Just make sure you get one with a small magnet. The first one I purchased was too big. The shim pool is an excellent option if they have the sizes you need.

 

Many (most?) people here use the zip tie/wire method, as opposed to using the tool. XJ4Ever sells the tool at the link on the top right of every page.

 

The bucket tool can be purchase from XJ4Ever or you can use wire/ zip tie down the spark plug hole.

 

bought the tool
tried modifying the tool to work on all the valves
gave up
used zip ties and a magnet
lived happily ever after

 

I have 2 tools both are now paper weights . need mods to work correctly I go wire/ziptie method


I use 12 ga. house wire, with zip ties you need thick wide ones or double them up
you will also need a small flat blade screw driver to fit bucket slot.
and a teleascoping magnet or hemostats to remove shims
I also picked up plastic shims from xj4ever. used as place holders when waiting for my shims

the shims are the second thing I do when I bring home another XJ,
while waiting for correct shims I can do other systems checks and wiring connector cleaning as well as inventory the bike.

 

Thank you!

 

So when using the shim pool I need to leave the wire in until I get the shims in the mail?

 

So when using the shim pool I will need to leave the wire in until I get the shims in the mail?

 

No. You cannot move the cams with a shim removed without damaging the shim bucket or cam. The procdure is to measure clearances, remove one shim to find its value, then reinstall that shim before moving on. With care and attention to how the valve train works it is possible to measure clearance on one valve while removing/replacing a shim from another.

Leaving the wire in a valve when turning the engine far enough to extract another valve will result in a piston contacting the open valve(s) and bending or breaking the valve(s).

I suggest that you re-read AIRHEAD VALVE ADJUSTMENT with Pics before proceeding with clearance checks.

 

Take a look at the diagram I drew for myself when I first went under the valve cover. I found it easier to first check ALL clearances, and write them down (the numbers in decimal form). I'm a bit OCD! Can't move on until I finish each task... heh... Then I went around again and pulled each shim to get the number off of them. (the numbers [250 through 275] in the rectangles). Make sure you take note of the exact placement of where you are getting your info from. When you get through all 8 and you have your info, you can do the math and figure out what you need. There's several strings in this forum discussing how you do that.

 

I was just thinking about this and Nuch posted! I was going to say, you only need to go through the valves twice and by writing clearances down, you should come up with a list of shims you need and shims you'll have left over. I sent both lists to the shim pool (Hogfiddles) and got back the shims I needed, and systematically went through the valves, first replacing shims I where I already had the new thickness in hand. As I removed the old shims, I would have thicknesses required for the remainder of the valves. Clean and send the left over shims back and you're good to go!

 

Very nice guys, that clears it up, sorry I misunderstood.
Thank you!

 

Don't be sorry. You learned today.

 

Is that the G point location on our XJs ?

 

Are we still talking about motorcycles?