1982 XJ650 Maxim Build

So I think a combination of things has led me to a working solution. I pushed the bar all the way to the opposite side and attached the butterfly keeping the spring side as close to the carb body as possible , just that 1mm keeps the spring under the tab on the bracket and doesn't let it bind up. Pics below, you can see the 1mm gap on the second pic.

IMG_1435 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

IMG_1436 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

I have been opening and closing it for a good 10 minutes now and hasn't bound.

 

That's it. There isn't supposed to be any visible gap. I'd also take the synching bracket (under the nut) back off and inspect it's bore and the throttle shaft for burrs to be sure that it can seat fully on the shaft. Careful to not overtighten the nut, or that will also cause the shaft to bind or drag.

 

I got everything cleaned and lined up and all put back together tonight. Well except #4 is missing the main Air Jet. Somehow I lost it between my ultrasonic cleaner and the wash tub where I was rinsing the parts after cleaning. I looked on the floor for a while then figured maybe i dropped it in the sink and it went down the drain. Anyways got another one on order from chacal and went ahead and put the rack back together and bench synced the rack (just setting all the butterflies to open and close in synch right?) I know I read on here somewhere but I can't remember where whats the starting pint for the idle mix screw? 2.5-3 turn out from soft bottom??

So here is the Before cleaning and rebuild pics.

IMG_1310 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

IMG_1311 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

And here's the after (still need to paint the diaphram caps, they had rust spots so I sanded them smooth and will paint them tomorrow at work)

IMG_1439 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

IMG_1440 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

 

If the jet is down the sink it will still be in the P-trap.

 

Thn bench synch os to make sure that the throttle plates are all equal, AND in the best position for initial idle. You se those little tiny holes at the top of eachcarb throat in this pic? You want each throttle plate to be just evern with the edges of them when closed. Some people use strips of business card, or unbent paperclips under the throtttle plates as gauges, but I just set it by eye.

 

Ive done a little plumbing and this sink is older, I don't want to take the chance of undoing everything and having a leak and taking me hours to get it fixed. It's worth the $16 to me to not have to undo the pipes.

 

Decided to go and look again around the utility sink in the basement. Low and behold I found it, it fell into the other side of the utility sink and was nestled under some painting trays that were in there.

 

Aluminum foil and water. You will be amazed at how it refurbishes your rusty caps.

 

Got a little done tonight, Put the gas cap back together, got my new gasket in today.

IMG_1443 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

Also Plasti-Dipped the top since the chrome was flaking and it was rusting.

IMG_1444 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

 

I did the plasti-dip on my gas cap too, but fora different reason. The shiny chrome was causing a nasty reflection in my windscreen. It's still holding up after two years of all-weather riding.

 

I really like it. I plasti-dipped the emblems on my car cause they were gold on a red car, not a fan. and also the grill of my car was fading and I dipped it too, everything holding up great on the car. I plan on priming the tank on the XJ650 after I strip it and dipping it also. And probably dip the wheels and side covers to match the tank. Great thing about it is if I don't like it afterwards just peel it off and paint or whatever. Oh, I dipped the carb diaphram covers black also.

I ordered some metallic anthricite grey palsti-dip and glossifier and that's what I'm gonna do the tank, covers, and wheels in.

 

Well I got the kids to sleep a little early so I decided to get started on checking and adjusting valve clearances. Pulled the valve cover off and got side tracked cleaning it up and wet sanding the machined parts. Plus I have to pick up an impact driver tomorrow to get the point cover off to be able to turn the motor over by hand. I also pulled the plugs out and looked at them and spritzed a little fogging oil in the cylinders. Onl4 #4 plug looked off it looked like 4 was running a little lean.

IMG_1447 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

IMG_1448 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

IMG_1449 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

I'm gonna try and find some high temp touch up paint and fix the couple chips in the valve cover paint, there's only a few spots and it's really not in bad shape.

 

This might help.

VALVE COVER REFURB: Step-by-step with pics

 

Thanks

 

Got to checking my valve clearances tonight, didn't have time to check the shim values but I've found out all of my valve clearances are out of spec. My feeler gauge goes .01 to .1 then jumps to .15 in .05 increments after that so I can't be exact between .1 and .15, do they make gauges that have all the values between .1 and .2mm?

If I said .01 that one fit the .15 did not but on all of them the .1 was tight

Intake: #1 = 0.1 #2 = 0.1 #3 = 0.1 and #4 = .08
Exhaust: #1 = 0.09 #2 = 0.1 #3 = 0.1 and #4 = .09

Nevermind found one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HUOA2B0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A19KOWFDWL0LJE

 

Feeler gauges are stackable. You stack them to "make" the ones that are not in the set (e.g. 0.01 + 0.10 = 0.11). For our purposes this practice is more than accurate enough.

 

Duh, lol. I feel dumb now. Thanks

 

Feel smart. You learned

 

I'll try to get a more accurate measurement and pop the existing shims tomorrow after work.

 

I lied, I decided to go ahead and check the shim values tonight after the kids went to bed. Checked my .1mm gaps with a .07 and .04 for .11 and couldn't get them in so they really are .1mm

In #1 is 0.1mm and 290 shim
In #2 is 0.1mm and 290 shim
In #3 is 0.1mm and 290 shim
In #4 is 0.08mm and 285 shim

If I'm reading the chart Correctly I need to lower them all by one size 1-3 to 285 and 4 to 280

Ex #1 is 0.09mm and 280 shim
Ex #2 is 0.1mm and 275 shim
Ex #3 is 0.1mm and 280 shim
Ex #4 is 0.09mm and 280 shim

lower all 4 by 2 sizes to 270, 265, 270, 270


I can move the 285 from In#4 to In#1 and the 280 from Ex#1 to In#4 and I need to purchase 2 285 shims 3 270 shims and a 265 shim right? lol