XJ750mk just won't stop dying on me.

Must be your 60hz vibe.

 

if you are talking about carb to motor boots you clean them with carb cleaner then coat them with black rtv oil resistant type.

 

So, aftermarket intakes aren't a thing anymore but with with Chacals advice I went with the OEM, should be here very soon. I also set myself the task of removing the old ones. Bought some liquid wrench, which I understand is 'the good stuff' based on what a friend who does this sort of thing had to say, and I gave all of the bolts a liberal spraying. Gave it a few hours and then hit it again, and then tried to see if any of them were loose. Four of them came out with no real issues whatsoever and three of them are still pretty frozen, so I hit them with more stuff, will do the same thing tomorrow and then try loosening them again. The eighth bolt is broken. It's the lower bolt on the far left, was on the same boot that was leaking, so I think there's a connection. I know what it feels like to break a bolt, I didn't break this one, it felt more like it'd been broken before and was wedged back in place. I've got maybe a sixth of an inch sticking out of the face of the head and the threads on that section are terrible from what I can see. I think I'll be seeing how much I can buy alum powder for and we'll see if that method works.
The new coils still aren't here yet.

 

Taxes are really high there, too.........

 

So the other three intake bolts are now broken, meaning a total of FOUR bolts that I somehow need to find a way to remove from the head. I bought some alum and watched a video or two but I'm still pretty unsure of how I'm supposed to use it. How to hold it up against irregular face of head, supposedly heat helps the reaction but how do I heat up the solution in the position it has to be in, things like that. I just generally need to figure out how one gets busted bolts like this out of the head, preferably without having to remove the engine from the frame and risking breaking even more bolts. Not a whole lot of clearance between the head and airbox.

 

it33) Aftermarket handheld EZ-OUT AND LEFT-HAND DRILL BITS SET. Perhaps one of the most important tools you can own when working with older vehicles, as you WILL eventually shear off the head of a screw or bolt and will have to "drill it out". EZ-Outs, of course, are hardened steel spiral extractors that dig into a drilled hole through the center of a fastener for removal, while left-hand (reverse rotation) drill bits "bite" in the opposite direction from a standard drill bit, therefore applying a counter-clockwise (loosening) force to a fastener. These tools can save you a lot of frustration when "the inevitable" happens to you!

HCP9967 Aftermarket EZ-OUT & LEFT-HAND DRILL BITS SET, contains 5 different sizes of extractors (sizes #1 - 5) and 5 different sizes of high-speed, cobalt-coated steel left-hand drill bits (5/64, 7/64, 5/32, 1/4, and 19/64" sizes). Metal storage case included.


it54) Aftermarket broken stud EXTRACTOR TOOL KIT. Common problem: you snap or shear off the head of a fastener, now what do you do? This happens quite a bit on your exhaust manifold studs and also with the intake manifold bolts. As long as you have a bit of the broken stud remaining outside of the cylinder head threaded hole (in other words, the fastener has not broken off "flush"), then a stud extractor tool is what's going to save your day. Similar in concept to a "ez-out", but these tools have their "biting" surfaces on the inside of a socket-type housing, so that the hardened steel ridges bite into the stud and allow you to extract it. Also works great on screw or bolt heads that have had the drive slot ruined or the bolt head rounded off.

HCP10302 Aftermarket 6mm STUD EXTRACTOR......this is the correct size for both the exhaust headpipe studs and the intake manifold bolts in the cylinder head, which are the most common fasteners that you'll need to use these extractor tools on. You simply pound this extractor onto the stud, and then use an open-end wrench to twist it out.

HCP10301 Aftermarket complete STUD EXTRACTOR TOOLS SET. Complete set of 4 different size extractors, and these can be used with ratchet wrenches for ease of removal. Contains one each of a 6mm and 8mm extractors (which can be used with 3/8" drive ratchets) and one each of a 10mm and 12mm extractors (which can be used with 1/2" drive ratchets). You simply pound the extractor onto the stud, and then use an appropriate sized ratchet wrench to twist it out. Comes in a molded storage case.

 

Did you not read... build a dam with modeling clay pour alum mixed with water and wait . The clay will hold it in place just have patience ...it will not require alot of alum

 

I think he busted them flush. I know ways of getting them out, but that is just my back ground. Agree with your post , but I know some folks are not always savy with lack of tools or abilty ..no offence Threnchcoat only trying to help....dont dispair ...another hint when you get it ready to install boots ..put anti sieze on new allen bolts....will make it easy to remove in future. We use it on the jet engine CFM 34,56, CF6, PWJT8,9 RRRB211 aluminum case and steel bore scope plugs ...700 degrees or more you'll be cussing last guy that did not put anti sieze on plugs...

 

I would not drill them out unless you have experience, and I would not use an ez-out in that location. The studs and head have become one, an exactor is more likely to break off than to spin the bolts out.
If the alum doesn't work (it will), take the head to a machine shop.

 

No, that's absolutely fair. I read a lot but in the end I have few tools and my actual hands on experience is very limited. I do have anti-seize, used it when I had to mount a new exhaust. Thankfully no studs broke that time.
...the name finally clicks for me now, Jetfixer. Got to be an interesting job working on large turbofans like that. I do figure it's best to get used to the more basic mechanics of cars and bikes before trying to get my A&P, though.

They are not flush, they are all jutting out at least a little bit. Not really by enough to be able to confidently get at it with a visegrip, and the one that was longest was also the most corroded, and has been rounded off. You're definitely right in that I don't trust myself to attack my engine with a powertool.

I was just questioning how best to go about using the alum method. I tried to read more about it so I could do it as optimally as possible but I honestly couldn't find much except for a handful of forum posts and a few youtube videos. Can this reaction function just fine without my heating up the solution? It seems to work better in the videos if you can simmer the stuff since heat always speeds chemical reactions plus it allows for you to get more alum dissolved into solution, but I can't think of how I could apply heat for the duration.
As long as you can verify that water with as much alum in it as will dissolve at room temperature can eat one of these bolts that is also at room temperature, that's all I need to know.
I'm not entirely sure where a person gets modelling clay around here but I'll see about rustling some up. hopefully there are no problems with getting it to adhere to the side of the engine, since it's still in the frame.
I am trying very very hard to not despair. Seeing everyone else on their bikes does not help.

I was reading similarly about extractors. Whenever I watch the youtube videos its funny how the only problem the bolt has is that there's no purchase for tools, the second there's grip it seems like the bolt backs out freely. I've been reading about using heat to break the bond between the two metals but I've got to say the lower bolt does seem awful close to the head gasket.

 

Modeling clay craft aisle walmart or hobby lobby or michaels ...or any other craft store near you .

 

I tried the alum trick on an aluminum pier bracket with no luck. The YouTube videos I just watched heated the solution to get results. Have you guys actually dissolved steel with alum at room temperature?

 

So, this is pictures of the stuff I'm using and how I'm trying to use it.
This clay isn't all that clingy so I just kind of had to mash it up into the side of the engine until it stopped falling off while trying to keep a little cavity that I could fill with alum and water. Am I supposed to wait for the clay to dry before I add the solution? I didn't do that. Seems like any free water kind of works its way out of the little clay cups and ends up dribbling down the engine so I tried to make more of a paste, filling the cups with enough alum to cover the bolt and then filling with water, enough to wet everything while mostly keeping it out of the intakes. Mostly.
Does this all sound like I'm doing it right?

 

Okay, today I took the same pier bracket and put it in an alum solution in a glass container and put it on the stove. As soon as the solution started to boil, bubbles started being produced at the broken bolt. I kept it at a simmer all afternoon, adding water as it evaporated and the bolt is now loose. It took just over four hours. I used one small tin of McCormak alum from the spice drawer in about 3/4 at of water. Without the heat, I saw no reaction.

 

That makes sense. It's good to see that alum can work with steel, but I'm still not quite sure how I'm supposed to heat the stuff when it's precariously held against the engine with clay.

 

Just a thought:
http://www.harborfreight.com/butane-micro-torch-63170.html

Plus this little torch has tons of uses besides lighting joints.

 

a 4 watt night light

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...65908B66A672CAB3833E65908B66A672CAB&FORM=VIRE


duct tape over intake alum on the valves is not good if you spill it

 

A magnetic block heater.
One of those very handy 500 Watt halogen shop lights.
Move to Kansas, or Oklahoma, or Texas.