First XJ build (1982 XJ650 J)

Hey everyone, this thread is going to be all about my newest addition to the family. Picked up a running Maxim 650 in October for a couple hundred bucks and started the teardown.

This will be a pretty drawn out project because of a few factors:
1.) I'm on a limited budget (aren't we all)
2.) It's winter and I don't really enjoy spending a lot of time out in my non-heated, un-insulated garage in the middle of a South Dakota winter (yes, people do live in SD and yes, we do have the internet.)
3.) My last build, a 1984 Honda VT700C, didn't end so well and I'm going to try to avoid that by not rushing in.

Ok, now that we're past the limitations of the project, I'll throw out my idea. I know that there are a lot of people on here, and elsewhere, that don't really like the word "bobber" but that is exactly the word I'm going to use on this one. I'll be keeping the rear suspension mostly because I don't trust my welding skills with my life (and I actually already installed a pair of 11" shorty shocks that I found on eBay). I'll be mounting a fender directly to the swingarm so I can get it as close to the tire as I want without having to worry about suspension travel. I've already got the exhaust chopped/welded/painted/wrapped and I think it looks pretty good for what I've put into it. I've also already replaced the bars with a set of clubman bars that I flipped upside down. I like the look and they fit with the style I'm going for. I'll be minimizing the wiring and I've already cut all of the safety switches out of the harness because, let's be honest, if I try to take off and still have the kickstand down I deserve to dump it. I've also purchased and installed a set of forward controls from TC Bros and even though they're shiny, they'll do the trick (after I hook up all the linkages).

There are a few things that I'm hoping the members of this site can give me a boost with. I want to get rid of the stock hand controls in favor of something a little more slim-fitting, any ideas? I'll also be using the stock air boots with pod filters and my exhaust is pretty much wide open, so if anyone knows what jets I'll need for an elevation of around 1500' elevation with occasional jaunts up to 5000' I would also appreciate it. I can probably figure it out myself, but anything to minimize time spent with a wrench in my hand in favor of the throttle is worth asking.

I've attached a few pictures of what it looked like when I started and a few of my progress.

I'm sorry if I don't update this every day, but I will post with updates as they come.

 

...I don't know why it added the pictures multiple times, so I guess you'll have to bask in her early 80's ugliness for a little while.

 

where are you in SD?

 

Lennox area. You?

 

Big Stone

 

Hey welcome aboard man.. I'm looking forward to watching your progress!

I'm in the SW corner of Sioux Falls (almost Tea) so not too far from ya'. No heat or insulation in my garage either so my newest bobber project is on hold until it warms up again.

Here's the thread for my first bike:

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/teds-82-maxim-750-bobber.40529/

Mine is a 750 - with cheap pods and mostly open exhaust I went up 2 sizes on the main jet (up to 124s) and shimmed the needle and now she purrs like a kitten. I ordered a bigger set of pilots too but never installed them.

My 2nd bike thread in case you're curious:

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/teds-2nd-82-xj750-maxim-bobber-project.47929/

 

I really dislike the square headlights on the 750's

 

Ted, your first link goes to this thread... can you post the link to your first bike thread? I need all the ideas I can get.

 

Ha! Whoops! I fixed the link above.

 

hey may I know like for how much did you buy it?

 

Ok, got a few more things done. I was successful in removing my wiring harness and spent the better part of two hours trimming all of the fat. I'm making this a minimalist bike, so anything that isn't deemed as necessary has gotten the axe (or in this case, the wire cutter). I got rid of the safety switches (clutch, neutral, oil level, side stand), gauges, headlight relay, and I'm going to be moving the key switch to somewhere else on the bike, so that had to go as well (I'll put it back on later). The finishing touches to the wiring will be done after teardown and reassembly are complete so I know the final locations of all my gizmos and gadgets before heating up the old soldering iron.

I also got my valve adjuster tool in the mail today...and I think I might just throw it in the trash. Thanks goes out to teddytedted for giving me the heads up on the zip tie method of checking shims. If you're interested, here's the link.

http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/1981-xj550-seca-valve-shim-job.47819/

After checking my valves, here's what I came up with. Exhaust side, 1-4: .17, .17, .17, .19 so we're all good on the out holes. Didn't get so lucky on the intake side. 1-4: .11 w/295 shim, .09 w/295 shim, .08 w/290 shim, and .10 w/270 shim. The last one threw me for a loop. Anyway, according to the chart in my Haynes manual I need to change to a 290, 285, 280, and 260, respectively. Can someone else run my numbers and tell me if I'm right or wrong? I'd like to only do this once...

Also, I took a few pictures of the valve cover where it's been leaking and I've already ordered the new gasket (Merry Christmas to me!).

Next order of business will be to clean the carbs, rejet (114 main and 42 pilot, if I've done my math right), bench sync, and then a running sync before complete teardown for frame/sheet metal work (going to make my own electronics box out of something cool and figure out a good fender option to mount directly to the swingarm), deep cleaning and paint. Every part will most likely be spotless because I'm going to have to wait until spring...well maybe not if this weather keeps up, but who knows? Can't trust the weather man in this state.

I'll also be rebuilding my front brake caliper, replacing the front brake hoses, putting in new fork seals/dust seals, and attaching the forward control linkages.

It's a long road with many twists and turns, but I wouldn't have it any other way on two wheels.

 

are you going to spray coat your pipe wrap?
just curious
I did mine and I know how much of a pain it is going on
would hate to see you have to redo it
the silicone spray is very affordable
I would also if I were you, instead of the steel zip ties
go with stainless steel hose clamps
otherwise keep trucking along

 

Yes, I was going to wait until I got the bike back up and running so I could cure it while the exhaust was attached. And I thought about the hose clamps, but then you have that screw sticking out and it just doesn't look clean. Do the zip ties not hold on well enough?

 

The relay to turn off the headlight while starting is a good thing, not hard to put your own in.
I found 2 holes in the lower triple that match the ignition switch, that's where I put mine

 

Sweet, can't wait to follow this build!

 

the zip ties are known to loosen up

 

To your goal of slimming up the controls, here is what I did to get rid of the choke. I left the rest stock but am happy to get rid of one piece of clutter on the bars and one cable.
http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/hidden-choke.47575/#post-422990 Works fine and disappears.
Putting your rear fender on your swing arm is fine, but it doesn't decrease your need to make sure your rear suspension travel "fits". That is, you either have to worry about your tire hitting your fender, or your fender hitting your frame/seat. But, with either fender mount location, it's still all gotta fit.

 

Your shim numbers look spot on to me. I think I might have a 290, 285, and/or 280 (but definitely not the 260) laying around in my garage. I'll try to remember to check when I get home but send me a reminder if you don't hear from me within a day or two.

 

Got the valves shimmed and the top end is all put back together. Sorry, Ted, didn't see the post until now. Competition cycle hooked me up. Waiting now for my dynojet carb kits to get in and then the fun part begins. I did take the bowls off the carbs already just to see what's in store for me and they were pretty scummy. I'll post pics when I get more ambitious. Possibly the next time it gets above 20 degrees... so maybe March/April

Really looking forward to spring/summer and the warmer weather and longer days that accompany it.

 

Been a while, time for an update. I finally got around to replacing the fork seals and the bike is now being supported by its own two wheels again. I hooked up a simple electrical circuit that I feel was correct and tried to start it and......no spark! I replaced the stock coils (they were both cracked) with Dyna DC1-2's and replaced the plugs with BPR7ES's, which puts me in the general area of the stock coil/wire/plug resistance spectrum. Am I doing something wrong here? I may have to draw up the circuit that I have right now for anyone to understand a word I'm saying....that will come with time. I'll work on that.

 

how are your fuses?
and or circuits there?

 

Sure your cdi is hooked correctly? Are your pickups sending a signal?

 

Did you use this one?

http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php...rical-mess-aka-i-hate-getting-stranded.28665/

Same one, but not as colorful:

http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php...ring-diagram-for-xj-series-resized-jpg.10850/

 

Resurrecting this ancient beast for a BIG update on the build.

It's been a while, lots of things have changed, both with the bike and my life in general. My wife and I have had our first child, sold our house, and moved half way across the country. Needless to say, the last year has been nothing but fun and excitement!

Now that I got that out of the way, here's the progress. List of updates: wiring completed, forward controls mounted and attached, front brake pads installed, new brake master cylinder, fender completed along with license plate mount, new horns installed, headlight and blinkers attached, seat mounted. If there's something I've missed, I'm sorry, see previous paragraph or I'll include it in my next post. The bike is actually a little bit farther along, but I don't have any pictures of it all together. My plan was to get it running yesterday, but my petcock started leaking so I took the tank back off and ordered a rebuild kit for it. Should have it running in no time! Then I'll have a mechanic friend take a look and balance my carbs for me. I'm mechanically inclined, but carbs are like rocket surgery to me so I'll leave that part to the professionals.

And.....the pictures.

 

More pictures...

 

A little late on the reply for this one, but my new used "choke shifter" is on it's way. It'll be here by the 26th so stay tuned for pictures. For $3.50 shipped to my door I couldn't pass up the deal.

 

Well, it runs. Quality of running status is questionable and I'm hoping there are some gurus out there that can help me troubleshoot. Carbs have been cleaned, floats have been set to 17.5mm (I didn't set fuel height because all of my drain screw heads were stripped out by previous owner), and new fuel jets installed (118 mains, 41 pilots, open exhaust and pod filters with stock air boots) and it started up and idled fairly nicely for a while. I tried to blip the throttle a couple times to see the response and the rpm's climbed and stayed up there even after I let off the throttle. I shut the bike down, let it sit for a little while and started it again, only to race up without any throttle input. I don't know what rpms it's hitting because I got rid of the broken instrument cluster a long time ago and don't intend on putting another one on, but I would say it was upwards of 3-4k. Carb-to-head boots seem to be in good shape, no visible cracking and they are still very flexible. I was thinking possibly throttle shaft seals, but before I dig in like that I'd like some other opinions and I know there has to be someone out there that has had this same issue. Thanks in advance.

 

Vacuum leak, or sticky throttle.
Throttle shaft seals are a prime suspect since you didn't replace them, but unhook the throttle cable from the carb rack and see what happens.

 

Throttle returns completely, I checked that earlier. Butterflies are closing when throttle is let go. Alright, time for some new throttle shaft seals. Should probably replace needle/seats and would you recommend replacing anything on the enrichment circuit?

 

I'd replace the dust boots if they are hardened.

 

Update.

Carbs are buttoned up and I actually took it out for a ride after sync and getting the pilot screws roughly dialed... Which is where I'll ask my first question. I kept getting hesitation while blipping the throttle, so I read up on the condition and richened the pilot screws (CCW)...but I ended up having to turn them out about 5 turns before I could give it throttle without dying. Dynojet instructions say to start at 3.5. The jets I'm running are 118 mains and 41 pilot. Stock pilot is 40, I just went up a size to avoid being lean at idle with pods. Any thoughts? Keep it where it is? Switch back to stock pilots?

Next item. As I'm riding, the throttle hangs when I pull the clutch to shift. Could this be associated with the aforementioned larger pilot jet?

Thanks in advance!

 

Can I safely assume that there ar new throttle shaft seals?

 

Yes, carbs are spotless. I used the deluxe full rebuild kit so I have new needles/seats, pilot screw washers, springs, orings, bowl drain screws, throttle shaft seals and plastic shims, choke plunger dust caps, and bowl gaskets.

 

Just got the bike out of the garage for the first time yesterday to start fiddling around trying to get the carbs running right. I did a vacuum synch and turned my pilot screws until it sung like a (louder) sewing machine. I let it warm up for a few minutes and went to blip the throttle...and it bogs. Main jets too big? That's my first problem. If I slowly roll on the throttle there's no issue, but there is hesitation if I snap it open.

Next problem starts where that one lets off, literally. When I let off the throttle, the rpms don't drop nearly quickly enough. It's also evident when riding, as the rpms don't come down between shifts as they should when the throttle is let off. The butterflies are closing from what my eyes can see, but when I put a finger (with VERY little pressure) on the linkage screw between #1 and #2 the idle drops considerably, making me think that the butterflies are not closing completely. Am I on the right track? I'll try to tear into it this weekend, but with my wife expecting soon and a house remodel that isn't getting done as swiftly as designed I don't know how much time I'll be able to throw at it. I'd love to get out and ride, as the weather has actually warmed up to unseasonably high temps for the region, but this needs to get fixed beforehand.

Thanks in advance!

 

Wow, crickets for over a month. It can't possibly be that no one has had this issue in the past, can it?

 

It could just be that your post got missed in the flurry of activity that is Late Spring/Early Summer. This is when we typically get the most new signups, and people who are new to motorcycles. Many, many posts to look at every day.

Now, did anyone mention how difficult it is to set up CV carbs to work with pods?
Your bog is indeed a fueling issue (one that can be made better, but that will not go away completely). The slow return to idle may also be a fueling issue, or a binding linkage/cable, or a vacuum leak.


Of the two problems, which would you like to tackle first?