82 Maxim XJ1100 Dark Knight Build

Progress is being made!! One side of the exhaust with new gaskets mounted and sitting nice

 

Loving the exhaust.

 

No visuals to report however progress is being made. My choke floats are moving freely and all ready to go. I have dismantled my front brakes to start my rebuild with stainless black coated lines. The brakes had great pressure and fluid was clean however the piston did not seem to like moving well. I am wondering though how I am going to bleed the rear master cylinder as the highest point on that system is the junction under the handlebars at the front end of the bike??

Hoping to be on to final wiring of my new gage shortly and then I should be riding FINALLY

 

I'm not sure how it's set up, but just disconnect the master cylinder from the bike frame, and hang it above the brake? The rear MC is mounted behind the brake pedal, right? And just runs back to the caliper on the rear wheel?

I'm confused as to why it'd have any connection near the front of the bike at all?

 

Hey Brother,

On the 1100 there is a proportioning valve so when you push the rear brake "pedal" if you will a line also runs to the front of the bike an the brakes are applied in a 60-40 split front and rear. The connection to the front of the bike runs up the frame. Otherwise you're right this would be a piece of cake.

 

Aaaaah

I didn't realise proportioning valves were stock on anything around this time, huh. Learn something new every day.

I can definitely see how that'd complicate bleeding.

 

Vaccum.




Or you could block the ports to the proportioning valve lines and just have seperate front and rear systems. That's a common mod on the Moto-Guzzi system from the same era (though I do like the linked system).

 

Don't know how significant this is but when I blocked the proportioning valve on my XS1100 Midnight Special, which uses the same set up as the XJ1100, I found that there was hardly any pressure going to the rear brake and ended up getting a master cylinder from an XS1100 Standard model to replace the rear with.
I always forget to add things like when I de-linked the front and rear brakes I used an FJ1200 front master cylinder to work the two front brake calipers. You can see the them in this picture below

 

I recently bled my XJ1100 rear master using the Might Vac that K-moe posted. You suck fluid at the bleeder nipple. Only a couple of minutes total to get fluid through the line and most of the bubbles out. I did the rear first and the front last. I installed speed bleeders. They work great with the Mighty Vac.

My rear master cylinder leaked fluid out the level sensor plug. I removed the plug and installed a bolt.

I ended up bleeding twice. The first time the bubbles never stopped. Traced the problem to the rear master sensor plug.

 

Thanks for the hints guys. I have borrowed a vacuum bleeder from a friend and I am going to do this myself! I was going to get the shop to do it but I am going to tackle it. Super pumped to give this a go as rebuilding the brakes went easy once I got the pistons out.

Wish me luck !

 

I also went to my local shop where I got the powder coating done earlier in the project and saw this

It was an XJ1100 that has been fulled care racer done. They did the rear brake proportioning valve block off, pod filters and the battery is located just under the rear swingarm bolt. Pretty cool build but too barebones for me, the open cavity in the middle of the bike needs something.

 

That's an XS1100. Looks like it could have been a Special, no YICS cylinder head, Standard tank, straight spoke wheels, single air forks instead of XJ linked ones, early type carbs, Standard front master cylinder, wider pick up coil cover,

 

Yeah there were enough aftermarket bits I couldn't quite tell what it was all I knew was that it was an 1100 because it mirrored a lot of pieces from my bike.

 

I'm not a fan of the open space either. If a fella's going to do that much work to free up space, why not make it useable? Build a cargo box.

 

It's not open space, it's SPEED HOLES! Just ask Homer about them...

 

And that's a Hipster-Cruiser, not a Café Racer (just for the record).

 

So today I took on the task of installing my new SS brake lines, I will not share most of my words here. The lines were the correct length however all the connectors were lined up when made. Being SS this made them a nightmare to get on. On top of that I tried using a vacuum bleeder as discussed. I could not seem to clear the lines of air for the life of me. Any words of wisdom ???

Rebuilding the brakes was probably the most rewarding and easy thing I did. The pistons were not terrible but I replaced them and the seals anyway.

I also began hooking the wiring back up, a painful process. All my connections are labelled , however the harness is brutal to manipulate. It is however great progress.

Soon it will hopefully be time to fire this beast up!!

 

Are you still using the linked brake system?
There's nothing easier than just using your finger and thumb to bleed the brakes. Top up the reservoir with fluid and disconnect one of the lines from the caliper, hold the banjo union between your finger and thumb and pump the brake lever then release your digits and you should hear a popping sound as the air rushes into the vacuum, fluid is now being drawn down the lines and when it reaches your fingers connect back onto the caliper, now crack open the bleed nipple and remove that if necessary and put your finger over the hole, pump the lever again and then lift off you finger from the bleed nipple hole, the same sound should be heard as before as the fluid starts to fill the caliper, when the fluid comes out of the bleed nipple hole replace the bleed nipple and then bleed the system as normal. Don't forget to keep your eye on the reservoir as it uses the fluid.
Sounds a bit long winded but it works every time on a dry, re-built system.

 

So I tried the vacuum and I have fluid. But for the life of me I cannot seem to fully get rid of bubbles which I assume are coming from the bleeder. I have teflon taped them but still bubbles. How can I stop these big bubbles ??

 

Did you replace, anneal or at least resurface all the crush washers in the system?

 

Oh don't worry, I replaced every crush washer, all of the lines and every bolt connecting the lines.

I tested the rear brake and it seems tight and stops the tire immediately. My only hesitance is because I never rode the bike previously I don't know how the brake should feel.

I think there is only the smallest amount of air left in the front line connected to the rear. Also while tightening the rear master cylinder cap a bolt broke ofcourse. Anyone have a fix for this ? Or is it time to source a new master cylinder? I just want to ride damn it.

Completed the oil change tonight so I will mount the right side exhaust this week. Then its time for the moment of truth to see if it fires up!

 

So I made a ton of electrical progress !

However the downside to having the bike part for so long is that I neglected the rear brake movement. Looks like I will need to extend out the rear brake mount to clear my exhaust.
Is here an easy way to do this ?

 

Do you own a welder and a grinder?

 

Haha I figured that was where I was headed again. I'm more wondering the best way to extend the spline deal so the brake is solid. Or should i weld the brake to a piece of rod and weld that to the end of current spline setup ?

 

The best way is to cut the lever off, weld a collar to the spline (making sure to cut it so that it can still be moved by the pinch bolt), and re-welding the lever to the (now longer) splined section.

Well, that's not entirely true. The best way involves buying a lathe, a milling machine, and a broaching tool. But you don't want to do that (tust me. $$$).

What you want to avoid is making any extension that can be twisted.

 

Well for now I've repurposed the original ignition mount and moved the ignition way back.



I love the position now. However the previous owner did his own electrical and it's a mess. I am now trying to clean things up on the front end. I have rear end working perfectly and running lights up front. However I am having a hell of a time getting the front blinkers to work.

Digging through my notes and photos now to try and decipher what the hell the PO did.

Happy with progress but now it's trying on my patience. Also why do these bikes have the most sissy double horns I have ever heard, my word !

 

Next question, I know the rest isn't blinking because of the leds and I will order the proper hardware.

I can get the front running lights lit but I cannot figure out the blinkers the life of me. I might be running new wires yet. Is there a fool proof way to test the flasher in place and see that the fronts will in fact blink being the classic bulbs ??

Loving the progress.

 

don't weld on that shaft, weld on the lever. it's a lot easier to replace should someday you need to.
get another lever and cut the splines off it and weld those splines to yours.

 

did you ever get the feeling that the muffler hanger is a bit wimpy ?

 

That's what I meant. I see now that I wasn't clear about which spline to extend with the collar.

 

Not to worry that was my thought too

 

Ok so I can now get my front and rear blinkers to light together. The issue now is I Push, and they don't blink just light up. Thoughts ? I can hear a click at the flasher relay, could the flasher be dead ?

 

Update, the hazard lights blink perfect so I'm thinking it is indeed the blinker flasher malfunctioning. Is this sound logic ?

 

What watage are the signal lights, and what flasher relay are you using?

 

So currently the front are stock bulbs ie I have no idea the wattage, and flasher appears to be the factory original.
Rear is led tail and signals. Like I said I have the hazards working and the lights are on and off together with the switch just not blinking.

 

Your hazards use a seperate flasher from the turn signals.

The factory flasher needs about 30 watts (give or take) to function. I've had a 5 watt LED signal hooked up at the rear and a 27 watt bulb (stock) in the front and it worked (flashed a bit fast though). If the front bulb is of a lower wattage, that could prevent the flasher relay from tripping.

You will probably end up needing one of the following;

• A higher wattage front bulb

• Load resistors

• A no-load flasher relay

 

If it is a two pin flasher I love these, they work with LED, normal bulbs or both and you can change the timing of your flash.
https://www.amazon.com/AUDEW-Electr...=8-2-spons&keywords=turn+signal+flasher&psc=1

 

So sadly I'm aware that the hazard and blinker flasher relays are separate. After much reading it appears when under loaded, as in the case of leds the stock flasher won't flash. The blinker flasher is a 3 prong sadly. Although I've read that you can use a 2 prong you just lose the auto shutoff. Since I've never had a bike with auto shutoff that doesn't sound like a big deal ??

 

Thanks Kmoe, I'm thinking the front bulbs being original if anything I will eventually go to LED and thus a no load flasher seems like the easiest way to go.

 

Since I'm ordering a no load flasher I was thinking of swapping out the stock
Bulbs for something more modern but all I can find for the turn signals is a part number. Does anyone know the socket or bulb type to replace the factory dual filament front bulbs ?

 

1156 bulbs

 

You are the man ! Thank you !!

 

bulb #, ?
take one with you to the store

 

Well another couple hours and equally frustrated haha. I had things working great yesterday until I managed to touch two wires and blow a fuse. I replaced the fuses which I could see at the rear. The PO did swap them all the blade fuses so that's nice.

Question now is my front lights aren't lighting with the rear again on blinker. I ordered a no load flasher which will hopefully make my life easier. However I am stumped at the lighting wiring the PO did. I was so close yesterday and since crossing those wires my fronts are no happy with me. I assume it's an online fuse I have failed to locate otherwise I have no idea why my front lights refuse to light with the rears now.

So I moved on and got some progress made. I made the holes in my ridiculous seat plate to give the rear light a home !

I forgot how awful working with little thin gage metal is.......a few non serious cuts later I'm calling it a day.

 

And I couldn't resist heading back to the garage. So lastnight I should have taken a break. I managed to touch the larger diameter brown wire to a live wire and now nothing on my front end works, headlight or signal lights. I replaced all the fuses I could find which the PO did.

What could I have blown ? The computer still works and my rear tail light is wired properly but the front end or headlight do not light now.

I am almost leaning toward taking it to a shop with the nightmare of wiring I have.

 

Just because fuses blow does not mean that wiring connections were not damaged. The fuses are there to prevent a fire, not to prevent component damage.
Stat looking at the harness and connectors to see what got fried.
You may be better off buying a used harness. Taking it to a shop is no guarantee of success.

 

...and will cost a LOT, as electrical problems generally require extensive labour to diagnose.

It's going to need some quality time with a multimeter.

Hmm. I'm not sure how the electrical differs, but I've got a full set of xj750 electrical parts, if you've anything you need to test via swapping parts, let me know - I can swing by with everything from the CMS gauge cluster down.

I'd be most suspicious, in fact, of the CMS - everything routes through there, for the current sensors (headlight) etc.

 

Yes please !! Let me know when you're free. Youve got my number.
I played around a bunch tonight and I'm perplexed. Yes the wiring harness is a bit of a zoo but all in all seems reasonable.

What's super weird is that I put the old multimeter to use tonight. The signal from the flasher lights up the left and right indicators as well as my new rear end tail lights. When the turn signal is on the current in the wire to the signal goes from 0 to like 12V but the front signals will not light. They are properly grounded too. Thoughts anyone??

Also my headlight works by the grace of god.
So my only issue is the front turn signals. I don't want them to be running lights so I'm working on just having working front turn signals.

 

pick a front signal, either one. unplug one wire to it, test between the two ends you just unplugged. is your 12v still there?

 

Aaah, wait... Did you check the bulbs?

Dunno why they could have popped, but it bears checking.

To be clear, you're getting 12v from the green and brown wires(depending on switch direction) from the harness to a frame ground? Mine has a shared ground for the signals, black wire with double female bullet connector, green and brown wires from the harness for right and left signals.

Do you have continuity from that ground connection to the frame? Just to rule out a failure on the ground wire.

A problem grounding them could be the case, as both don't work.