Now I am having singal problems, onle one works

82 xj750 maxim

only the right signal flashes.

the left will come on but not flash.

naturally the flasher relay clicks away for the right side, but for the left it just latches and stays closed.

what i have done

took apart relay and cleaned and cleaned the plug. tried adding a battery charger to the bike thinking i might have low voltage/amps. unpluged the self cancel unit.

all of this had no effect. it does this stationary or moving. self cancel still seems to work on the right.

so what do you think? just replace the flasher relay? anything else i can test?

 

first disconnect the canceler unit.

do both left bulbs come on?

my 82 would not flash until rpms were brought up. so I replaced bulbs and they started working again at idle 27 watt bulbs needed.

if flasher works for one side it is good the hot lead goes into flasher then to controller which is what sends volts to left or right side with the selector switch.
check grounds and hot connectors for blinkers .

could be your controller needs to be cleaned and lubed

 

As stated the problem is the same with cancel unit unplugged.

Doesn't seem to be rpm dependant, problem stays the same.

I don't know what wattage bulbs are in there now.

Yes front and back work on both sides. Only one flashes and one solid. Which part is the controller?

 

the handle bar control with the left right switch , horn and high/low beam.
electronic spray cleaner and some dielectric grease or silicon spray.

most likely the bulbs are the problem got old or the contact tip is dented in and dirty grease the bulbs when you replace them it is the simplest thing to do first.

could also be the connector from the control to the harness is dirty and needs to be cleaned again spray and grease

 

Ok I will do those things next. I don't understand though how that switch would send a pulse signal. Isn't that what the flasher relay is for? I thought the controller switch was more of an on off. And I have the on

 

could be dirty contacts in the switch ,or dirty connection at connector from control to harness
the directionals work like this.
there are 3 wires on the flasher connector, one goes to canceler one comes from fuse and one runs to control.
wire runs from
fuse to flasher relay which supplys power to switch. the switch sends power to left or right blinkers depending on position of switch left/right. the switch activates the relay which has a timer circuit built into it

when you want to cancel directionals you push in on switch directionals stop blinking or you let the canceler unit stop the blinking after distance/time

I would start with the bulbs first pick up a pair at walmart. sylvania 1156 bulbs are 27 watts.

 

I bought new bulbs. It wasn't the problem however it looks like the front right socket could be. I will clean everything up and try again

 

switch connectors of front blinkers with each other just the power wires see if problem moves with connector

 

it was defiantly the socket and only the front left one. but I did take everything apart and clean and lube.

but socket had some corrosion, still not the problem. the problem was the slots for the nubs of the bulb. if you pushed the bulb in hard against the sprint pressure bottoming it in the socket, the nubs made good contact all is well.

so really all that had to be done was squeeze the socket tighter with a plier, so under spring pressure nubs made good contact with tangs

thanks for the help.

 

Good find! I had the exact same thing with a trailer tail light.

 

A singal problem? I don't think Len has anything in his current catalog. BUT---A meeting with a J.P. can solve that......

 

if you put a smear of bearing grease on the metal of the bulb, it won't vibrate, and that won't happen

 

Dave, Dave, Dave... As far as comedy goes, you make a great carb technician! I'm not too worried that you're going to put me out of a job, but perhaps you should leave serious business like jokes to the professionals. Somebody could get hurt.

 

im back,

after all that now I am at a solid on condition both sides. all lights work but no flash. I can turn on and off, no flash. not voltage dependent. they do not self cancel either seem to stay on until I turn them off.

so now are we thinking flasher relay? anyone got one? (I know go to the usual place)

 

have you disconnected the cancel unit ? that could be the problem.

 

Did you buy the 27W bulbs? 21W will work, but the extra current from the 27W is better.

How did you do this? Spray the contacts with a good contact cleaner and then insert the non printed section of a business card or folded printer paper between the contacts. Using very light finger pressure to hold the contacts closed then slide the business card out to remove any debris and oxidation. Repeat several times and follow up with a puff of air.

Worst case, use crocus cloth or very fine sandpaper (1000 or 1500) and gently swipe between the contacts. Use the contact cleaner to lubricate when doing this. Clean with the business card or paper as above.

You may have to go with a replacement if cleaning does not work or you don't find another issue. Checking the input voltage to the flasher will verify signal fuse and wiring are OK and not creating losses that are limiting current. Checking the output of the flasher will verify the flasher coil / contact condition to determine if you have losses in the left control or flasher wiring / sockets that are limiting current.

 

yes to the 27w bulbs

yes to your cleaning method almost verbatium I used 1500 paper.

however I need to make an addendum. I don't have a voltage problem I have an amperage problem.

as made evident by trying to start this morning. no go.

red neck load test, I had 12.4v sitting tried to crank about 4v.

hooked up to the battery charger a while, now they blink. now it will start.

I was using my analog v meter and over 3k rpm it looked like 14v. I will do a better test later so I think I have an OK charging system

so either I got a bad battery or a draw. I am going to let it charge up all the way, then test for draw. then run it and test for charging. and do another load test. if all passes I will let it be a couple days see if it dies again. if so I guess ill buy a battery

 

Bad/failing battery has caused turn signals to light but not flash on my XJ550. Does "revving" the engine start them blinking?

 

battery is now fully charged, did my load test barely dropped below 11 at crank so I feel that's ok. I checked for a draw, if I have any its less than the 0.00 my meter will read, with a normal high 8am draw the key one and high beam.

sooo it looks like I have a bad charging system. at 3k rpm just barely right about 13v. and I believe it should be 14.3ish at 2k rpm?

initial test looks like stator is at least bad have to do all the test. very corroded in the connection, going to pull it out and clean works and reset. im getting funny readings, not in spec but not open/closed but stuff in between. haven't yet tested regulator.

popper stator cover open, was a little surprise, is the stator just supposed to kind float in there? I don't see what keeps it in place/out of the rotors way?

 

The stator is held by the cover screws when the cover in place.

Clean the copper traces on the rotor with a hard eraser, and check the wear-limit marks on the brushes.

 

new update.

I pulled battery and battery box. to remove stator field coil all the way off. also had to pop starter out to clear the plugs.

the manual specs are given at 68*F, it has been pretty warm for us up here even in the evening these reads were done at 85*F so maybe that has some bearing.

it was pretty messy in there but a dry messy.

I cleaned stator with contact cleaner to get schmutz off. then dissembled the plug, wire brushed the contacts and had to replace one. after that I am getting 0.6ohms across all 3 wries any combo. book spesc 0.46 @ 68*f with a range of 0.41-0.51 so maybe I have a problem there still? maybe it was my temps?

I took apart and cleaned the other side of the plug, afterwards I have the same impedance on both sides of the plug 0.6ohm

field coil, that thing was all over the readings and I quickly learned you need it touching the rotor to get any reading, and I could see how this would very as the rotor would rotate. but all mine were done stationary.
pulled apart those plugs and cleaned them as well. contact cleaner on the brushed and all over the inside cover. the rotor face was cleaned with contact cleaner and a nylon brush. the inner brush track has some grooving in it, the outer pretty smooth.

after cleaning bolted together to take my measurements on field. book stats 4ohm with a range of 3.6-4.4 @68*f I am now getting 7.8-8ohm at my one location. I did run the engine again and check and I was getting 5ish in presumably another spot that the rotor stopped at.

a spec for brush length I didn't find I can measure but id guess over .5in on each sticking out.


it is still somewhat apart but enough to hook everything up and run it. this time around I was getting 14.6ish V at 2k rpm. within in spec however under the high revs I saw 15-15.3 a little high. but is it too high? it got late, I will to do the regulator tests tomorrow to see whats what there. perhaps I need one of them. but then again my other specs aren't really in spec maybe I need a whole new everything?

my plug for the stator is pretty melted and I need to replace, anyone know where to source an OE style plug? it would be better to keep that. if not I suppose any 3 pin weather pack plug would be good.

thoughts, opinions? currently I think if I don't see much over 15v that might be ok? run what I brung? but I will test RR, and likely hook it all up keep a meter on it and drive it around and see what it does real world.

 

15.3 V above 4k RPM is not too high. op voltage cutout is 15.8 V
Your charging systm should be good now, but I'd go ahead and order brushes from Chacal (he has the connector you need too). IIRC the brush spec is 10mm; thy have wear limit markers cast into them.

 

i will check for those wear marks and measure.

you don't feel 15.5-15.8 is over volting the battery? as I recall most charging systems on all types of vehicles limit in the 14.5 range. that being said I don't remember how many volts a battery charger puts out?? that might be a fun quick test, at which voltage my charger puts to the battery.

 

fun fact my battery specs

Max Charge Current: 2.30A
Charge Voltage: 14.4 to 15.0V
Stand By Voltage: 13.5 to 13.8V

so ill do some more testing if I can stay 15 or under I wont worry.

 

this thread has a good discription of the charging system and what the data means. it is way down at the bottom
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-ultimate-relay-switch-sensor-and-diodes-guide.27543/


Overall length of these brushes are 17.10mm, with 9mm of length from the wear bars to the contact end of the brushes:

 

Put it back together. New plug on the way, I have a temp fix for it at the moment. Rigged it up drove agroun typically 14.6 with the occasional flurry of 14.8 - 15 . Seems ok with me. My brushes have 9mm from the wear mark on one and 8.2mm on the other. Also seem fine. Sunglass l signals work fine. Even at 1000ish rpm about 13v.

The plan put new oe style plug on when it arrives leave temp until then. Also ordered a, tiny volt meter i will mount in the roster to keep an eye on things

 

Added this cute little volt meter to keep an eye on things. Driving around settles at 14.5 with a peak of 14.9

 

New plug arrived and wired. I'll just keep an eye on the volts but I am optimistic it will be fine. You will here otherwise

 

That first pic... were you listening to Highway Star?

 

Nope. Lost highway, bon jovi.

 

Well, he was halfway there.

 

... living on a prayer.

Deep Purple - Made in Japan was my first hard rock album. Ian Gillian = pipes!

Sorry for the side track.