AIRHEAD VALVE ADJUSTMENT with Pics

Well thats mature.
I have owned the bike since 1987.
What I have stated is FACT.
Live with it.

 

Well thats mature.

What I have stated is FACT.


Live with it.

 

That fact is highly unusual. Not impossible, but highly unusual.

 

Maybe unusual but fact none the less.
Previous question was concerning how long an engine would go.
My response was to answer his question.
Perhaps the its the "school of dont fix whats not broken" or the dilegent use of synthetic motor oil.
Whichever the case those are the specs I measured this afternoon.

 

I read that the synthetic oil will slip the wet clutch. What kind of oil have you been using? You could get a sponsorship with that kind of testimony.

 

Oh boy--- here we go.... Time to make big bowl of popcorn.

 

I think the conversation needs it's own thread.

 

If anyone cares for more information.
Feel free to send me a PM.

 

I'd say at least 300,000km!

 

I followed the directions on this thread and everything WAS fine. No leaks for a couple weeks. Now my new valve cover gasket is leaking from the semi circle cam shaft parts on the right side of the engine (brake side). I got the gasket off eBay so I'm hoping it's a bad gasket? Does it make sense that it would work for a bit and then start randomly leaking?

 

I'm running semi-synthetic. My $.02 is engine is quieter and smoother than with non synthetic and changes gears better. I do notice a little more slip on the clutch when starting, but makes for a smoother start. My clutch plates are in last 1/4 of life so I'm not aggressive off the line. I was told not to use full synthetic unless you've got a tight, rebuilt engine and fairly fresh clutch.

 

Please note the title of the thread before posting. This is not an oil discussion.

 

You may have missed the comments about using a thin smear of RTV on the half-moon seals

 

The RTV smear as Kmoe suggested. Also - I do not use a torque wrench on my valve cover (gasp! ). Mine is an 81 XJ650 Maxim - no donuts - so I just snug those screws down to that 'just right' 3rd and 4th finger torque setting. I also torque in a symmetrical fashion from the center to the outside corners. If a seep is recognized I will 're-torque' a series of screws towards the seep area.

Be cautious as over torqueing will strip the threads in the aluminum head. Even properly torque settings can stripped compromised threads . . . been there done that - hate it! (fortunately have not done it on my XJ).

 

The bolts have a shoulder that rests on the head. Over-tightening can do more than strip threads; it can crack the head. Fortunately the torque spec just happens to be finger tight.

 

My Maxim's got a stripped valve cover bolt hole, front left bolt. Noticed it was a bit higher than the rest, and sure enough... It comes right out and the holes stripped. I just so happen to have a spare head, but I'd rather not replace the whole head as that seems like a terribly large amount of work... There a good way to fix that? I've never had to deal with that before. It's not leaking as it is, so it's a little lower on the priority list, but it's obviously going to have to be dealt with.

 

Helicoil.

 

A very old but, very good post.
Does anyone have these pictures saved? I am doing mine now but the pictures really do tell a thousand words.
Thanks

 

On most of the pics in this forum I am seeing a Photobucket 3rd party image instead of the actual photos. Anyone else?

 

photo bucket now requires payment to post photo links on comercial sites