82 Maxim XJ1100 Dark Knight Build

I had to keep going and I got the wiring all setup, gage completely working, brake lights functioning and I could not be happier. So I put on the tank and removed all the rags to get an idea of where I'm at. Needless to say I am super happy with where the countless hours have brought me.

My seat is in the mail as well as some final airbox pieces. I also need to figure out how I am going to hide/ move all the wiring and ignition computer under the seat so it's more weather resistant.

 

How is your gauage setup on the parameter screen? Do you cycle through multiple pages of options (like on all the YouTube video examples)? Or does it ask for he cc (circumference)?

 

God, that is beautiful. Beautiful.

 

Hey Taylo105, Yes I cycle through multiple pages. The original gage that I fried by being careless was the previous generation. If yours is the multiple pages one I will take a picture of the instructions tonight if you need them, let me know!

 

Thanks Brother, this is one project I have refused to give up on and I'm glad I didn't. Now I just have to pray it wants to start once it's fully complete. I would also love with your help to colortune this thing so it runs beautifully. I am thinking with the openness of my exhaust it may need some tweaking beyond some screw twisting. I'm hoping not to need to pickup a jet kit but if I do, so be it.

 

I guess I have the older generation then. When I enter the settings screen it asks for cc. After entering 123, I then go into the settings, cylinders and speed calibration.

Thanks for the info. I'd love to collect it anyways so I can do a full write up. Then we can helps other trying to install these gauges.

 

I'll take a picture tonight and make a wiring diagram I used to get mine to work.

 

I initially thought it was but because the entire exhaust is now one piece it is held really well in place by the hanger. However I do have thicker grade steel should it be required in the future.

 

Somehow by the graces of the shipping God's my new Larosa seat and lower airbix with boots arrived today! Like a week early!
The bike might be running by the weekend now. I will need to get the welding done for my rear brake before I can drive the bike though. But progress is daily now.

 

around 5 hours, if remember right, then over night in a solution to dissolve the support material.

 

solid edge

 

ABS.

 

Curious, because I think about how to print without support all the time. That part doesn't look like it would need any because it could be printed flat. Which orientation did you print it in?

 

Alright so I'm. Just about ready for a test start. My question is that somehow now when I pull in the clutch the N light comes on? Is this just a function of old electronics or have I managed something pretty weird in wiring?

 

Something's not right. Did you keep the factory harness? There is a neutral start safety that utilizes the neutral switch in conjunction with the clutch switch. I wouldn't worry about it for the test start if you are sure it's in neutral but it should be addressed before it becomes a rider.

 

Yes to the factory harness. I did however notice I am missing a relay whether it's from when I stripped it or not who knows. For now everything else works perfectly and there is 5L of premium fuel in the gas tank haha

 

Here's what came with my gage.

 

Today I made some serious progress and nearly lost my mind a few times while doing it. Protected my paint though!
1) if I could go back and join the Yamaha design team I would have made sure that mother f$cking air box was about 1000 times more user friendly. The words and sounds that came out of my garage while I battled to install it were appalling and I will repent my sins at a later date. Absolutely horrendous setup with how the frame and airbox need to go together. Almost as bad working on a Volkswagen but that's another story. Once I fought that into place it was time to redo some connections and finalize some wiring.
2) I will figure out the neutral issue or Atleast attempt to asap. I'll grab another relay tmrw to complete my wiring. I still need to figure out how I will hide it all in the back of the bike but I think I've got it sorted.
Overall I'm happy with my 3 hrs today. The tank is semipermanently mounted with new fuel lines connected and 5L of premium in the tank just waiting for a spark.
Once I plug in my final relay I won't lie, I am terrified. It will either work at which point I will be joyous or nothing happens at which point I'm not sure of my response yet. Also with having been dry for so long I redid the Petcocks recently before installation. But before I do attempt to turn it over do I turn them to prime for like 3o seconds then attempt to start with choke on clearly. Or do I just turn them to on and attempt to start??

I have learned more ways how not to build this bike than I care to admit, however it all seems to be coming together now! 

 

You've got the clutch switch wired to the neutral light instead of the neutral switch maybe? That's explain why your neutral light didn't work

 

Side note: I'm not one of those "premium gas is just better!" guys at all, but I've found it runs WAY better in my XJ than regular.

 

If you've got a clear fuel filter, it's really helpful to see what's going on here but yeah, turn it to prime, fill the carbs, then start.

Otherwise, you'll be cranking with no gas, then even when it's trying to start you'll be fighting to get equal, reliable fuel metering to each cylinder.

So long as your carbs floats don't leak, leaving it on prime for a while to be sure isn't going to hurt anything, and it'll get you to a better place to start her up.

 

Large face down, support material was very minimal on this part, I had printed some switch housing(mo tone style) at the same time so I just threw it in the solution over night.

 

So I think from reading whats happened is my relays are in the wrong connectors. Some default open and some closed and I think my first problem is I only have one of the two relays to begin with near the bottom of the tank. So now I think I will likely just replace both. I'm thinking this may rectify my Neutral light coming on when the clutch is pulled.

 

I also agree, I scoff when people tell me "I only run premium". However every bike I have owned always gets the good stuff!

 

Around here, the only way to get non ethanol gas is to buy the premium gas.

 

If you swap the side stand relay into the starter cutoff relay this may be the issue as you would place 100 ohms across the Sb and B/Y wire. The neutral indicator would then illuminate when the clutch was pulled in but only if the side stand was up. Conversely, if you install a starter cutoff relay into the side stand relay plug, the neutral light might activate when the clutch is pulled in but only if the emergency stop switch is activated.


Check location of the side stand and starter cutoff relay;

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-ultimate-relay-switch-sensor-and-diodes-guide.27543/

Starter cutoff relay:

- on all XJ1100 models: under the fuel tank, behind the right side ignition coil.
-small metal (original) or plastic (replacement) "cube" relay, inked 4H7-00, 4H7-01, or 12R-01 on the top face

Side stand relay:

- on all XJ1100 models: under the fuel tank, behind the left side ignition coil.
- has a blue paint mark or blue locking tab shroud on the bottom of it.

You will need to have this somewhat sorted before attempting to start or you may have a starter that will not engage or an ignition that is disabled. Best bet on the ignition would be to just remove the side stand relay initially when first attempting to start the bike and be sure the emergency stop switch is not activated.

 

Thanks for the help ! That sounds like my train of thought! I stopped pushing last night to start as after 3 straight hours things all start to look the same and easy to mix up. Also my sidestand is up as the bike is on its center stand while I work!

 

Sidebar to all of this, What oil does everyone use in their bikes? I need to do a full swap and I want to know if anything is preferred either brand or mix. Sadly Nowhere seems to sell the Yamalube which everyone raves about in the US

 

Don't worry before I began this monster of a process I printed out the color coded wiring diagram 3 sheets by 3 sheets and hung it in my work space. I have both the connectors identified I just need to be home and identify which relay I currently have and which I don't.

 

We've got wild temperature swings, so mid-range is pretty ideal. I run Shell Rotella T4 Triple Protection 15w-40 diesel oil off k-moe's recommendation, and it's been great hot and cold. Also, readily available from our local Cambodian Tire, and inexpensive.

You want to avoid synthetics as the clutch will slip, also most car oil as they've got additives that are great for modern car engines and catalytic converters but don't make our bikes happy.

 

You were right! So it turns out I only have the side stand relay, I'm going to count that as a win. Now to track down a starter control relay.

 

I have a spare - well, I'm pretty sure I do. I'll check when I get home from work. If so, I can run it over on Friday or Saturday.

 

For what it's worth, I run valvoline motorcycle oil 20w-50. Been treating me real well here in Wisconsin.

 

Keep me posted brother! I'll wait to order one

 

Oil thread in my signature. Buying by brand is the wrong way to go.

 

I've got all three:
a blue locking tab 4U8-00 - that's the sidestand relay (4 pin, normally closed, no internal diode)
a yellow headlight 3H5-00 - that's a headlight relay (4 pin, normally open, internal diode)
a uncolored 4H7-01 - and THAT should be the one; starting/ignition cutoff/neutral switch.

I'm working evening shifts this week (3pm-3am) but may have Friday off, so I can swing by with the relay on Friday evening (if I'm not working) or Saturday whenever.

 

Sweet ! I will be home Friday night and Saturday so just keep me posted ! You are AWESOME!

 

My next hurdle that I think is going to make me want to the kick this project over and bang my head off a well is gears. I should have checked this sooner I guess but was unaware of such issues. When just trying to work my way through the gears I can feel 1 down, neutral, 2nd and 3rd and then nothing........UGH. After a ton of reading I'm hoping its just that my stupid star washer broke and the drum dowels have fallen out. I've read so much that statement even makes sense to me now. IF anyone has any experience or thoughts feel free to chime in ! Luckily I haven't done the oil change I'm just letting it drip out so I will be popping open the shifter case to see what hopefully is an easy fix.

 

Check the springs too.

 

Are you rotating the rear wheel while shifting? The transmission needs to turn some to engage the next gear either by turning wheel or running the engine.

 

I was not so here's hoping that's the only issue as I want to be riding this monster asap

 

hopefully it will work. hate to see you have to take apart a nicely painted engine.

 

I am beyond happy to report that 1-5 are flawless !! Now to see Wintersdark this weekend for the relay and we should be in business !!!

 

So Wintersdark and I got to hang out for a couple of hours but sadly no bike starting today. The carb float must have stuck and gas has come out of the air box ugh......Time to go back to the church of clean tomorrow !!

 

Alright gents, I have been playing in the church of clean, ie the church of hell haha. I finally got a bench setup with the carbs off the bike.

The tape is there to remind me which of these little demons needs the most pain inflicted upon it.
Upon closer inspection with the fuel set to prime, fuel comes out of carb #2 here

The jet opening on the right side of the carb. How is this even possible ? What orifice connnects to this thing? Other than I did a thorough cleaning and nothing seems amiss otherwise.
Thoughts and suggestions are welcome !

 

If it's doing that, the float needle isn't closing either because the float is set incorrectly or because the needle itself isn't seating (wear? Something stuck there?)

Have you checked/set fuel levels?

 

So I have checked through all needle valves and they seat correctly. However I think one of the needle valve seats seals may be toast.

When I tried to check the float level individually I couldn't get a reasonable reading. So I mounted the carbs back to the rack as seen above so I could find the leak. Tmrw I will investigate. I got a second set of carbs online that are not in the best of shape overall but plenty of salvageable parts to had.

We shall see what tmrw brings !

 

Replacing old, worn-out parts with different old, worn-out parts is a fool's game. Get new needles and seats (from Chacal so you get the right ones the first time).

The fuel is coming out of the float bowl air vent.

 

Don't worry, when I say salvageable parts, I mean the screws and bodies. Nothing soft or fragile

 

So I finally got fed up enough to try and deal with the neutral switch again. FML

This is what came out as I'm doing an oil flip anyway why not get this thing out. Well here's what came out.

The threaded portion is failed and I barely put any torque on this thing.

So my next question, what are my options or what will cause me the least amount of nightmares to extract what's left of the thread ?

Clearly I'll need a new neutral switch