Oil/Filter change on 81 XJ650

Hey guys, first off, yes I did try the search function, but it kept coming back as database error so I thought i'd start another oil change thread. I have never done a oil/filter change on this bike. I changed the oil when I first got it, but the filter bolt thing was stripped so I didnt change the filter. Long story short, just today I got a new bolt welded onto the oil filter bolt and it came off fine.

I have a new oil filter, oil filter bolt, and ready to rock, but I am not 100% sure what goes where, etc so I thought i'd post here before I go ahead.

- First off, I have no idea what grade oil to use...I see the Haynes book says 20w40 for over 5 degrees celcius or 10w30 for below 15 degrees celcius (and I see online there are a couple other suggested grades). I'm confused because biking weather is usually over 15 degrees celcius, so neither options in the Haynes manual makes sense. I'd obviously prefer the 10w30 because it's always on sale

-second, I bought that new oil filter bolt thing, and it came with a black rubber gasket on it. I also got an orange one that looks similar to it, in the oil filter box, and Yamaha sold me one seperately. Am I missing something here or is there another place that those small orange gaskets go?

-which way does the oil filter go? one way has more of a bump then the other side.

-after taking off the oil filter case, I see another small bolt facing towards the ground. Am I suppose to take this off and does oil drain out there?

-My oil level glass doesn't work so it's all just a guess as to how much I put in, and I only have the left kickstand....so once the oil filter bolt and oil drain plug is out, is there anything else I do to make sure it's all out?

-Where does this spring go?

Thanks a tonne guys. I'm pumped to get this old oil filter out because it was so gummy.

 

Dude, you need a book.

In order asked:

-20W50 is fine; just be sure you use MOTORCYCLE not "car" oil.

-The orange o-ring is the same as the black one that's on the bolt; now you have a spare.

-The flat side goes toward the motor; the indented side faces out, and the spring presses against it, pushing the filter against the motor.

-Yes. See the pic; that is the drain plug.

-Your oil capacity is the little number (probably 2500CM3) cast into the clutch cover. That means 2500cc's or 2.5L. You want to add another 300CC's or so, for a total of around 2.8L; and you really need to get the sight glass clean.

-Put the bolt in the housing, put the spring over the bolt, then the thin washer (that you're probably missing) then put the filter on the bolt ("dented" side facing the spring) and screw the whole mess onto the front of the motor. There is a tab on the top of the housing that should stop against a fin on the motor, to keep it from turning.

DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE OIL FILTER BOLT; 11 FT/LBS is the spec, not very tight. Drain plug goes to 31 ft/lb.

DRAIN PLUG:




EXPLODED VIEW:

 

thank you for the help. I do have a book...perhaps not the same as you are talking about.

How does a person clean the sight glass? I figure if I can attempt it, I had might as well do it before I add the oil

 

I cleaned mine when I had the cover off to change the clutch. If you can't see the oil at all, it might be worth it to take it off and clean it.

HOWEVER...you should have, or be prepared to buy and not ride your bike until it arrives, the "clutch cover gasket". You are supposed to change it, and any good mechanic would. It's a pain in the rear to change it, and if I had to do it again, I would probably just bolt it on and see if it leaks before I went through the trouble of getting the 30 yo gasket off. But theoretically, it should leak if you don't replace it....so you might as well have the gasket handy. Get what I'm saying?

Once the cover is off, use a q-tip and some type of light solvent to get in there.

 

dudes, I screwed up some place. who knew that a motorcycle oil change could be screwed up, but I did it.

I emptied what I could...added the amount stated. I tried to start it and it starts to try to start and then the low oil light flicks on for a fraction of a second and it dies. It did this right when I first did the oil change, but i thought it was just the oil wasn't to the right place, and then it started and ran fine and I drove it a bit. now, I went to start it for the first time since that time and it does it again. I don't want to keep trying to start it as I'm sure this isn't good for the motorcycle.

I put the filter in right and the right amount of oil in. what would be your guess as to the problem?

 

does anbybody have a guess as to what;s wrong? I am not gonna drive this thing until i get the problem fixed. who thought an oil change could be messed up

 

You can check your electrical connections...I'm not sure if the low oil switch will kill the engine or not, I'm pretty sure it will just turn on the light, if I'm reading the diagram correctly.

The oil light should come on when you start the bike...

Make sure there's enough oil...the level switch is only in the sump, it doesn't sense pressure at all. Check for leaks, etc. What kind of oil did you put in it? When was the last change? What did the old oil look/smell like?

 

Level switch is only that, just a floaty thing that turns on a light; no interlock with the starting circuit.

As above; how much oil of what type did you put in?

Although it's highly unlikely the issues are related...

 

I don't see any leaks, and I know there were none before i did the oil change. perhaps I didn't tighten something enough, but I dunno.

I know for a fact the last oil change was this april as I drained the old stuff out and put some new stuff in as it sat there for two years. April was just an oil change, as the filter bolt was stripped. This last one was a oil/filter change.

 

I guess is there is no interlock, i must be "seizing" it.

I put in 2.8 (ish) litres of 20w40 castrol gtx

 

gtx automotive oil?

or 4 cycle motorcycle oil?

 

dunno

 

If it didn't say 4 Cycle motorcycle oil on the container then it was car oil. Not what you want. My local Napa has this little section for Motorcycle, ATV oils. it is easy to miss I had to ask the first time if they had oil for motorcycles. While I am sure it isn't 100% related, I'd check your containers to see what you did buy, if car oil go back to the store buy 4 cycle motorcycle oil and repeat.

 

Just went and bought 20w50 of Castrol GTX. I dont think the last oil i put in was 4 stroke, but I could be wrong. The previous owner gave them to me.

 

I am gonna go out on a limb saying you put car oil in your bike. Castrol GTX as far as I know and there is a lot of room for me to be wrong here but I believe this is car oil not motorcycle oil. The label will say 4 Cycle Motorcycle Oil. The P.O. may not have known any better, most people don't they just assume oil is oil

 

ya, this is castrol GTX 4 stroke stuff that I bought. I don't know about the previous oil though. But if I did put car oil in there before, it didn't do the stalling out thing like it did now so i'm guessing this seizing thing isn't because of the 4 stroke/car oil problem. But I had might as well start over fresh and see where i went wrong. better than ruining the motor

 

Automotive oil has friction modifiers that will cause the bikes started clutch and transmission clutch to slip. It won't cause the problem you are describing.

This sounds like a carb or ignition problem. Try using starter fluid and see if it continues to run on that. If it does, carbs. If not as soon as it dies pull a plug lead and see if you have spark.

 

I doubt the problem you are describing is related to the oil...it wouldn't be the first time such a coincidence of action-->problem was simply coincidental.

If you have oil in it, try to start it, and watch the oil level...it should drop. If it doesn't you might have a bad oil pump.

Of course, I just re-read what you wrote...are you just anxious to try to start it without oil and cause damage? Sometimes bikes die after you start them...you just have to start them again. I can understand your hesitation if you never cleaned the sight glass!

 

uh oh, i found out the problem. I put the oil in and drops came out of the drain plug. I am thinking it is stripped? It surely won't turn to 31ft/lb or anywhere close to it. but then again it doesn't turn freely as I would expect a stripped drain plug bolts to do....

this is not good

 

or is there a bolt gasket that may be pooched?

 

to answer, it's the bolt. I went to take the bolt off to drain the oil so I could keep it good. Anyways, when unloosening, the bolt just keeps turning and turning.. So i stripped it. not good.... what has to be done?

 

if it wont come out, your only real option would be to drill it out, use a extremely small bit and run it threw the center, and then step up another size andkeep going over and over, untill it will pop out.....

and just make sure you clean it real well before you refill it back up and run it, because you dont want the metal shavings inside the motor.

other option maybe would be to try o turn and pull on it and hopefully it would catch on the bolt possiably.

 

okay, say I get the bolt out.. but then what do i do to the stripped part of the motor?

 

find a replacement if the threads are messed up, could also be the bottom of the pan , the threads on that part could be messed up too. If youd could find a used one here, would be your best bet, but also could get specs on the bolt and head to the nearest lowes or home depot and use one that matches the thread count and size ....

just sme suggestions, but i would wait for a "expert" to chim in , but being my work ive done on a few mustangs ive worked on , im not too bad with mechanical issues like this.

 

You can replace the oil pan, if you can find one....is this the first time you've changed the oil? Get a little exuberant with the bolt?

I thought you said it wasn't leaking and that you already had oil in?

 

I guess i got exuberant with the bolt, but I did use a torque wrench.

it wasn't leaking. here is the history of my oil, since i bought the motorcycle:

1)took off oil drain bolt. drained oil, replaced oil. no oil filter replacement due to stripped bolt
2) tool off oil drain bolt and oil filter bolt. Replaced filter and oil filter bolt. replaced oil. Oil leaked out.....
3)took off oil drain bolt, drained oil. put bolt back on, put new oil in. Oil started to leak out of bolt hole. I came on here....

 

so what is needed here for me to get this thing working again. Just so I order everything so they arrive at the same time instead of not ordering enough and having to wait:

1) oil pan
2) pan gasket

Anything else?

 

Bikes that "Sit" have Starting Problems related to:

Insufficient Cranking Amps. (Battery)
Just because the battery reads 12 Volts ... doesn't mean it got enough POWER to do more than light a few lights.

Fuse Panel. High Resistances / Intermittent and Open Circuits.
Age related.
The Clips holding the Fuses are history.

Corroded Contacts and Switches.
Open Circuits.

Contaminated Starter Brushes / Commutator
Brushes too short.
Brush dust Grounding-out Electrical Path.

(( Short the Main Posts on the Solenoid and see if the Starter Spins. ))

 

thanks man, but i don't think your post was meant for this thread as it made no sense about the situation

 

is there suppose to be some seal on the bolt? or just a washer?

just in case we try to rethread it (to last until I get another oil pan and have it replaced), what size is the bolt?

 

gday, i could be wrong and only going from memory but i think i a spark plug fits in there, 14mm,already has a washer aswell,i would think it would be only for an emergency

 

There's a bunch of oil pans on ebay, mostly under $25. I would think that a whole new pan would be easier than re-threading, new bolt, and a lot of faith.

 

Oil pans:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1982-yam ... ccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1981-83- ... ccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/82-Yamah ... ccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/82-83-YA ... ccessories

And there are at least two dozen more...

 

thanks guys. Except for a drain pan gasket, is there anything else I will need to get this going? It looks like I have to take the exhaust off, so is there anything there I would need to replace as well. And the oil level reader thing has a big hole...does that require a gasket as well? Just making sure I buy all the right parts at the same time

 

The oil level sending unit has an o-ring around its midsection, I do believe, not sure if there's a gasket as well. Check the fiche; it's generally illustrated in one of the "electrical" diagrams.

Since you're dropping the exhaust, I'd replace the pipe-to-head gaskets. See: http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29356.html

 

I think I screwed up worse, was in a hurry and changed the filter, when I cleaned the drain bucket I found this washer giving me the stink-eye. Tough luck, oil is already in. Today I'm gonna drain the oil, collect it in a clean bucket, put in the washer and chug the oil in again. Then on to the next issue..

 

Hey guys, newbie here. I found this thread when searching for an answer to a question I had. I'm a proud new owner of a 1981 Yamaha midnight maxim. I'm in the final process of restoring my bike and the last thing I have to do is install a new oil filter, oil filter housing, and of course oil. I found all the parts I needed on eBay, except for one tiny part, the crush washer. I'm not talking about the crush washer for the drain plug, but the first washer that goes inside the oil filter housing. Does anyone know what size that crush washer is, or where I can get one? Can I just go buy a cooper washer at the hardware store?

 

on the oil filter bolt when you insert bolt through housing there is a spring that slips on then a washer that mates with oil filter gromet . is that the washer you are talking about?

part 7 washer and 8 spring.

about 3 each at dealerships
WASHER, PLATE

90201-21608-00

SPRING, COMPRESSION
90501-20422-00

$3.59
$2.55

81 midnight maxim? xj650? what motor size?

check your motor vin and frame vin at this link
http://www.dissingermoto.com/

 

It's an xj650, and yes that's the washer I was looking for! Thank you! Every search I've made for that online always points me to the washer on the oil drain plug, which isn't what i need. On my main oil drain plug it appears there is a washer on the bolt,,but it doesn't come off, not sure if it's corroded and stuck to it, or if it's actually a part of the bolt, regardless it's there and looks to be in good shape, but what I really needed was the washer that you found for me, so thank you so very much! This is my first project bike, and I've cleaned my first set of carbs, I'm nervous and excited to see if i did a good enough job with the carbs for the bike to start. This is off topic, but, I've cleaned the carbs to the best of my knowledge; should I bench sync them before installing them, or should I leave them the way they are and install them and see if they were already synced properly? I don't want to bench synchronize carbs that are already synchronized

 

try using www.partzilla.com or www.yamahapartsnation.com for parts look up the number i gave you is a dealership number.

our supporting vender chacal at www.xj4ever.com sells all the parts you need for your bike. but if you only need the washer go to dealer but it will take a week no shipping charge the dealer may have it in stock

there is a crush washer under the drainplug too

well you did what I call a dirty clean if you did not break the rack. did you clean the wells in the carb bowl for the enrichment jet?

if you did not break the rack leave the sync alone .
did you take out the mixture screws and clean that?

 

you should start a new thread about your bike . that way we can discuss your bike and any problems and its repair history, that will makeit easier for every one who is going to help you

 

Yes I cleaned the wells in the bowls and cleaned all of the jets and ran thin guitar string through them and blew them with air. I'm taking out the mixture screws today and cleaning those, is there anything else crucial that I should be doing? All of my butterflies open freely, bowls and floats are super clean, jets all clean. Going to oullntjr mixture screws now and clean those. Just trying to confirm the float heights so I can get that done today as well (1981 xj650)

 

I will start a new thread, thanks so much for taking the time to answer me, you guys are great in so glad I found this site!

 

this site has carb speca
http://xjbikes.wikidot.com/carb-specs

I would say at this point if your carbs were not leaking not to disterb the float height but go right to wet set levels
instructions

Setting the fuel levels

 

Well, when I first got the bike and got the new gas tank, I hooked it up to the gas lines and started to fill it up, gas started pouring all over the place, And I mean all over, juts gushed out of the carbs, after that I looked at the petcock and saw it was on prime, and then noticed the clamps on the carb boots weren't even tight, so gas was pouring out of those. Yes, I know I'm an idiot, I was just too excited to start it up. The previous owner found it in a barn and stared it up for me using a bottle and a small hose to feed it gas, it would only run at high RPMs for a few seconds and then it would die. Strangely enough, there wasn't gas pouring all over the place when he started it like that, only when my idiot self attached the gas tank with the petcock on prime and loose boots on the carbs did the gas spill everywhere. And I know the floats need adjustment, one of them was slightly bent and one of the floats was higher than it's twin next to it. I straigtened it out so they now match in height (on the same float)

 

then you need new float needles or had stuck floats.

• 
  
• IN THE CHURCH OF CLEAN

 

Thanks for the quick reply

 

run some sea foam in the gas, carbs are probably mucked up from ethanol. use chevron 94 octane only or other non ethanol gas.ethanol will gum up your carbs especially after its been sitting for awhile.

 

That advice does not mirror my experience with using ethanol blended fuel over the past 35 years.

 

Naptha in the gas will not fix dry-rotted rubber needle tips or seat seals. You have to replace the needle and seat on these carbs when it gets that way. Most "rebuild" kits include a new set with jets and bowl gasket.