REAR WHEEL BEARING REPLACEMENT: How-To w/Pics

Ok. So I was able to replace 3 bearings in my rear wheel yesterday. The 2 bearings that go on the left side were tight and I used the old bearing and a socket to drift them in. However, the right bearing was not tight. In fact it dropped right in. I expected it to be tight buut it wasn't. Should it be that easy to fit into the right side?

Thanks
Rustee
1982 XJ750

 

Is there any slop, or is it a nice slip-fit like you'd see on a rifle bolt?

 

It's a little looser than a rifle bolt. But just a little. It's not sloppy, but it's not quite snug. The old bearing fit the same way. I thought about making a shim from a soda can to put between the bearing and the hub but the soda can was way too thick. If I were to guess... there might be a gap of .002 or less.

My big concern was when I was watching youtube, all the examples (for other bikes - not the Seca) showed that those wheel bearings had interference fittings.

 

It is supposed to be a press fit, but that can be worked around.
Locktite Bearing Retaining Compound. Get you some.
If there is more slop than the retaining compound can deal with (it sounds like you're fine), then cut a soda can to use as shim stock in addition to the retaining compound.

 

Saw that. Could use a bit of context, though. Perhaps something along the lines of "I thought this needed a post of its own rather than being buried in a thread" sort of thing.

As for the origins of this thread, has anyone seen or heard from Fitz? I seem to remember he said a while back that his new job wasn't exactly conducive to letting him poke around here at work, and even before that he was rather busy.

 

K-moe,

Thanks for the locktite top. I did a quick look on Amazon and there are many versions of bearing compound. Which one should I use?

Thanks,
Rustee

 

Am I correct in assuming the annular/Conrad bearings are old school and are to be replaced with sealed bearings?

 

The bearings were sealed to begin with. The bikes aren't quite that old.

 

What I meant was - with the wheels off, I can see one set of bearings in which the rollers (balls) are visible in the bearing housing. I was thinking that these are now replaced by bearings that have the built in dust covers, if that makes sense.

 

Great instructions! I am however a little stumped about the ‘new’ smaller flange for the
spacer tube. The old flange, which had a larger OD was captive in between its land and the RHS bearing. I understand that and this system apppears to be the way the spacer tube stays aligned with the two bearings. But with this newer, smaller OD flange that is also pushed on further to ‘clear the land’, what is it’s purpose? I don’t see how this flange does anything because the OD is also smaller that the ID of the wheel and also doesn’t touch the RHS bearing anymore. Hopefully I haven’t missed something obvious but....

 

Just finished replacing my rear wheel bearings.

On other bikes in the past I’ve been able to push the captive rear wheel spacer to the side and use a drift to knock the bearings out. That didn’t work for me this time.

I ended up buying the motion pro 17mm wheel bearing remover 08-0268 with the short wheel bearing removal driver 08-0261. It was very easy to remove with this tool and I definitely recommend it. “Pit Posse” brand has what appears to be a replica of the motion pro tool for a cheaper price - but I wasn’t sure of their quality.

I bought the 15mm bearing removal driver for the front wheel which I next on my list to do. Then my new battlax tires will be ready to go on…. And then it might be time to move to my 1986 yx600. Fun stuff!!