2 hoses to gas tank, throttle cable

I dont know these bikes. My bike is running, the throttle cable is loose to the point the throttle grip has no spring back whatsoever.If I turn the grip the whole dang cable just about jumps out of its cage.I figure I have to take the throttle handlebar assembly apart as I did when installing the stock handlebars.That little barrel end of the cable is in its hole, the cable is laying in the groove, I dont see any more adjustment.The hex nut and lock nut being turned doesnt take any slack out. This is stock cable,stock handlebars.When I got it from the kid the throttle worked fine. Secondly, the fuel tank has 2 hoses clamped on.One is rubber,gas goes through it.The other is about 6 inches long, hooks onto the tank,does not appear to be anyplace else it attaches to.All input appreciated. If these carbs are vacuum operated I would expect that second line to attach to one carb somewhere.

 

if you have a vacuum petcock the second hose connects to a nipple on the .manifold intake boots there are 4 nipples 3 should have caps on them it does not matter which nipple you use.
is the throttle cable hooked up to carbs? and the outer cable in the cup? if so it sounds like you have to lube the cable.
there is an adjustment at the curved part of the cable where it attaches to grip and a little retainer clip that screws into the control to hold the outter cable to grip

xj650 correct

 

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1982/xj650j/handlebar-cable

 

yeah thats the carb that the others synch from i believe.the suzuki gs bikes have one carb a line goes to.The manual says it is a vacuum line.The adjustment at the handlebar is not enough.I think rerouting the throttle cable to take out some of the slack might work.

 

No it won't, think about this, why would it? The point of the cable is to have a fixed outer sheath length end to end, rerouting it is neither here nor there.
For the life of me I can't see why there would be so much slack, unless a PO has used a generic cable with a clamped nipple on the carb end?

 

what bike are you talking about?

my after market throttle cable on my xj barly adjusts enough to work with about 3 threads left. if the internal cable has streached you may just need a new cable or you could shorten the cable a little

a guy on u tube drilled a hole in a bolt and melted the end to shorten the cable or flat stock steel depends on how the cable goes into the barrel

 

duh!!!! I have a head in the floor on an 82 i was going to fix,it needed a head and cams.geez,clear as day, there is a nipple for vacuum.I connected to that and now this bike starts and runs.Just like on the suzuki.The exception would have been if this petcock was the wrong one and my carbs were not vacuum activated.So now all that leaves is the throttle cable. Where the cable barrel end sits down into, and the cable fits through the slit, that should not be the end of the line according to my pictures.It should go down beyond that and connect to a device much like the one on the clutch cable.The cliplike place the barrel fits into has a closed bottom.I have been wrong on everything so far so I am missing something there too.Rerouting the cable-very astute obsevation.They are designed with stock configuration to barely reach, this has way too much length,but probably because down below it an inch or 2 is where it really connects.I promise, I do know how to build an engine, but when i have a machine I did not do the disassembly on and have never seen one before I sound very inept.I appreciate all the information.geez, cant believe I didnt see that vacuum port.

 

thought i said,81 xj650 maxim

 

Anyhow, I need a right sidecover for my 81 or 82 650.This will work for any xj made.This is almost like lens information overload.

You got a left one, right.There are 957 of them on ebay.None of the right side.
1.Take the left.lay it on a piece of cardboard.If you have time to waste go to the hobby store and buy chipboard.That could be saved for future patterns though.
2.Now you have the shape for the right one.I think they are the same.If not,just put the carboard after roughly cutting the shape and use marker.Cut it out.
3.Do you have any old junk sidecovers, dont fit anything you own, even busted ones.I do.If they have the same rubber prongs that fitinto the grommets you are blessed.
4.I dont know what is best to cut abs with, but cut out those with like a square of abs it is molded to. .u need 2 or 3.
5.Take your sheet of abs, or plexiglass, or whatever you are going to use.You could even take an old sidepanel, piece of busted worthless windjammer, whatever and use for the triangle.Cut that out.if you use plexiglas you can see through it.Put that seethrough panel inside the final mounting place.mark on the outside where the mounting prongs will be.lay those square things against the triangle,cut off the excess.use abs glue or chewing gum and mount inside the triangle. If you want 3 dimensional cut off the leading edges of the kawasaki sidepanel or what you have and abs glue them along the edges of the flat triangle you made for a more factory look. There are selfadhesive fiberglass patches used for drywall you can use inside that are moldable to hold things together.Paint over them with the black abs glue.It makes permanent bond.
6.You could go over everything with fiberglass,bondo, sand and paint.
7.I have not come up with a way to from the sideview to make a curved outer profile but these flat ones with the 1 inch or so border would probably do.
8.No more making one out of expanded wire mesh, or steel and have ugly boltheads and washers on the outside.
9.Go to the PLASTEX site, watch their video.It shows how to repair all this abs stuff if you have broken fairings etc.\
10.Told ya'll I was smart. I had 11 years of high school to prove it.

this is just to prove how smart at fabricating I am.

 

now the clutch cable.I want it adjusted to where it shifts properly.I cant figure out the adjustment down on the motor, do i run the knurled nut down or up.I have ran it down so far, the bike shifts kinda,not good.Still nof completely engaging .It shifts into second third and 4th.Downshifts to 3rd and second, doesnt want to go into first or neutral. I am seeing videos say do it up and down.Give all the slack available on the handlebar end first then go to the bike end.The adjuster doesnt thread in real far up at the lever,about halfway. I ran the knurled nut down by holding the lock nut still with a 12mm.I went enough threads to move down about 1/4 inch.It shifted more than 1 time so I must be on the right track. I figure once its right there will be little need for adjustment at the handlebars.

 

you want 2 to 3 mm play at the clutch lever


https://postimg.cc/gallery/1udkre2fu/

clip holding throttle cable to control


where other end of throttle cable hooks to carbs

 

clutch lever hook up

the adjustment here adjusts how far out or in the thumbwheel is at the control


this is where you adjust 2 to 3 mm play in the clutch lever movement before it starts pulling cable

 

I have the throttle perfect now.But on the clutch no luck.I know about the handlebar portion of adjustment.Thats not the proper way to adjust the cable as you know, its just for final fine adjustment.The picture you have here is where i am trying to figure it out.I have several 12mm wrenches.So I loosened the lock nut,held it still after i ran it down about 3/4 inch.Then I turned the knurled end clockwise several rounds.It isnt really a nut, just has a hex end to facilitate adjustment.I cant figure out if i need more cable or less showing to take up the slack.I ran the adjuster in as far as it would go on the handlebar to give maximum slack so the lower end on the motor could take it out by being properly adjusted.

 

down at the clutch the adjustment is more about how much the wheel at lever will be turned out or in. the closer the outer cable is to the clutch cover lever the farther out you will have to turn thumb wheel at clutch lever to get the 3 mm lever movement before lever starts to pull cable.

the thumb wheel adjuster and adjuster at lever can make the outer cable longer or shorter. this is used to adjust for inner cable streach or excess slack

 

I know this information.I do appreciate your input. The amount of adjustment at the handlebar is supposed to be minimal and only necessary for finetuning adjustments after the major portion of slack has been removed with adjustments down on the clutch end of the cable.i am going to keep turning clockwise, see if that works.

 

give us a picture of the throw lever on the motor it could be in the wrong position.

no mention about shifting into 5th gear.
do you have bike running when you do this?

 

I never got to 5th cause the speed limit in the neighborhood is 20 mph and I have no front brakes.I got the air out.I think the piston is not moving. The clutch cable is attached the same and goes the same way on my 82 in the back patio and this 81 that runs perfectly. I really think I dont have the adjuster knurled nut right.I will post pictures. I am so anxious to get this thing on the road.stopping with my feet isnt real safe. When I shift up to 2nd, third, 4th it may be like no clutch really needed if the revs are right.Going down is the same.engine breaking makes going down to second easy.going to first is hard. Too many guys replace clutches that all was needed was a proper clutch cable adjustment.It has 24,000 miles on it. This next statement will blow your mind.The tags and tires say 2006.The guy I bought it from never did anything with the bike.He had it since december.he couldnt afford tires.plus it had no headlight.Not a globe,nothing,just an empty bucket.The other guy rode it like that.I wouldnt get 2 blocks before i got pulled over if i tried that. I bought a headlight,$50.It works perfectly.

 

here is how it looks

 

they are crooked.sorry.My resize app has rotate, but doesnt seem to be working

 

it looks like you have 2 nuts on the lever side of the bracket on the motor.
can we get a photo of that.

with the the amount of threads through the motor mount your handle lever adjuster is to far out,, it should not be that far out
it should look like this. if you look close at this photo you will see the plastic cap is not on the adjuster threads,

I was thinking wrong cable so i included the cable lengths

HCP2703 OEM CLUTCH CABLE, for all XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models, and all XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models. Wire length = 54". NOTE: for owners changing over to lower-than-stock euro/clubman/Daytona style handlebars, the use of the XJ650RJ Seca clutch cable is a recommended substitute to allow for a more accurate cable routing.

HCP2646 Aftermarket CLUTCH CABLE, triple adjusting nuts and black plastic end cap as original on clutch end, for all XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models, and all XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models. Wire length = 53". NOTE: for owners changing over to lower-than-stock euro/clubman/Daytona style handlebars, the use of the XJ650RJ Seca clutch cable is a recommended substitute to allow for a more accurate cable routing.

how fast are you going when you shift down into first?

you may want to look at the shifter mechinisim under the shift cover

 

this link has some photos that may help you

https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/bike-not-staring-and-shifting-gears.72992/#post-479385

 

TO me it looks like the plastic nut IS on the adjuster threads in your picture.What difference does that make if it is or it isnt.Is it because the nut wont reach the threads if it adjusted properly? geez this simple problem is frustrating.

 

i was stating that to show you how far through the holder bracket it goes , it is there to keep dirt out nothing more. if you mount your correctly the adjuster will not be out as far as it is on the clutch perch.
the transmission is not a syncro mesh transmission.
when is it hard for you to put it in first when down shifting ? or at a stop? how fast are you going when you try to down shift into first? could be you are trying to down shift to early. in the end when all is said and done as long as you have 2 to 3 mm play at the lever your clutch should work properly if not it is time to look at other things.

 

ok.I am not moving fast when going into first.I have no brakes right now.The front ones i bled but they still dont work.I think the piston is not moving.time to take apart and check.And the rear brake does zero.Not one bit of braking.I have to replace the rear tire, so i will see if the shoes are toast then. I need to rotate a lot on the adjustment of the clutch cable to look like your picture. The picture is a lot better than trying to understand a description.