to the max... gonna need some pointers (thanks in adavance)

we have here a 1986 xj700n with 10k on the clock. picked this up for $300... score (i hope).
this is my first bike so i'm excited to make this thing work.

last tagged in '08 so i'm assuming that's the last time it ran... where do i start?

already downloaded the FSM. ( thank you xj550)

i already drained the oil to put new in and the o-ring broke on the filter cover screw. i'm assuming autozone will have an o-ring that will work in one of their multi-packs. it had 2.5 qts in the case. i'll be ordering a filter

any advice on things i should look for, be prepared for, would be appreciated.

i'm a mechanic and can trouble-shoot electrics.

my list right now...

- starter circuit trouble-shooting ... starter motor doesn't work from the switch.

- pull the spark plugs to inspect

- the "broken gas thingy" , order a whole new gas cock?

- there are three hoses that look like supply lines connected to the front of the carbs, they aren't connected to anything. guessing i'll find see where these go in the service manual

-vacuum line with a screw in it... hmm

 

I would order the correct o rings from member Chacal (Len) also get a new petcock you can get a manual one or vacuum opperated one . again chacal has the correct ones
that petcock you have is junk replace it. vacuum hose with plug is what goes to petcock, just get a cap for it like the other cylinders have if you go to a manual petcock.
the extra hoses on the carbs are overflow hoses.

the one with the ring clamp is the fuel line to carbs from petcock
fuel guage is an ebay part or just put a blocking plate on the tank again chacal may have some.
tank looks like it has bondo or a patch near mounting holes

 

starter circuit .
does starter turn when jumped at solenoid?

you can test starter button from small wire at solenoid disconnect connector , meter to battery other lead to connector when you press starter button you should see 12 volts . starter button makes the connection to ground

 

getting 12v to the starter... but it's lifeless. the windings appear to be fried right in two. open circuit from the "hot" post to the frame

 

Good chance your carbs will need to got to church ( full rebuild xj4ever will have full kit and most important the butterfly shaft seals note 2 on each carb body one on both sides the kits on eBay do NOT have these seals) you bike looks good keep the stock airbox ....resist putting pods on ...unless you want to keep experimenting with jetting.

 

noted... thanks

 

The open is more likely caused by the connection between the brushes and the commutator ring. A starter clean and rebuild should bring it back to life.

 

it's spinning!!!... gonna hook up a gas supply and see if she'll run

 

what did you do to get it spinning?

 

cleaned the commutator with 400 grit sand paper and sprayed it with MAF sensor cleaner. it's cranking at the moment but wouldn't fire up. i'm not sure what sequence to do with the choke. and for some reason the throttle grip won't turn

 

throttle cable frozen you could try lubing it but it will brake soon.could be the throttle tube is gummed up to.
turn on choke do not touch throttle hit the starter button as bike warms up rpm will climb and climb.

put a meter on your battery when you press starter button se what the voltage drops to under 10 volts tci will not fire. charge battery or replace.
if the starter is bad it can also draw voltage down.

 

Whatever you do - don't start it untill you sort the carbs and or linkage out, if they stick even slightly open the revs will climb alarmingly - even if you are quick to kill it. And any way, whats the point if you can't blip it?

 

10 yr old gasoline?

 

the carbs are gummed up solid. floats don't budge. should i just assume a complete rebuild is needed? do i have to take the hats off?

 

Full strip down, split the rack, replace the shaft seals - but only if your confident, there are a lot of little bits to mislay.
You could take the tops and bottoms off, strip everything and clean and refit, but the shaft seals aren't accesable unless you take the whole rack apart.
There are people on here who could do it for you?

 

noted. thanks!

 

https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/mcy/d/1982-yamaha-maxim-xj650/6601091589.html

does anyone know if this bike will have the same carbs as mine?

 

nevermind. found a wiki on the 82. this one has the hs32

 

Rebuilding what you have is better. Anything of the same age will need to be rebuilt.

IN THE CHURCH OF CLEAN

Replacing your Hitachi throttle shaft seals

Setting the fuel levels

Chacal has the corect parts in stock. Start a conversation with him.

 

prepping the carbs for rebuild. i'm guessing the hole at the end of the milled slot, and the smaller hole at the bottom of the bowl, are connected in the wall of the bowl. are they?

does this hole have a name?

 

That's part of the enrichment circuit. The brass part inthe bowl is the enrichment jet. They are non-removeable, and tend to clog.

What you need is a sermon.
IN THE CHURCH OF CLEAN
Replacing your Hitachi throttle shaft seals
Setting the fuel levels
Inside your Carbs

 

this needle came out of it's seat. can i fix this?

 

this came apart

 

I've never run across that problem. It should be able to be repaired with a 2-part epoxy, but make sure that the overall length is the same as an undamaged needle and holder.

 

you cut a new slot in the jet with a dremel or hacksaw .. or try vise grips

 

this is how i fixed the diaphragm needle. had to squeeze the end down to get it back in the seat. chucked it up in this tool because it uses a collet. then hit the end with a sharp chisel to expand it.

the kits i ordered for the bowl side rebuild came with an o-ring and an aluminum disc. (ordered off ebay from some place in korea or something) any ideas what the o-ring and disc are for?

 

That is a pickup for the choke circuit, there is a tiny jet in the bottom that must be clean, squirt carb cleaner in the hole top, should come out the bottom, if I does not, a lot of time fiddling with a single strand of a copper wire down there from that top hole sometimes cleans the jet, it's like .010" diameter, also try heating the tube with a torch and hit it with compressed air.... or find another float bowl.
Hope this helps

 

got them all open. soaked them in the stuff in the picture, then shot carb cleaner through both ways. thanks for your info friend.

 

Mint! Glad I could help!

 

it ran today. wouldn't idle with the choke closed

 

Then the idle jet is plugged, or the float level is way too low, gotta pull the carbs back off, uuuh
Believe there's a thread heard about carb set up, browse around, if not I can give some pointers

 

firing order... 1-2-3-4? is this diagram right? if so, my #4 wire doesn't reach the plug.

 

after a buddy noticed the wires on the wrong plugs, it idled but exhaust 2 & 4 are way colder, and throttle response was way too slow. plugs do spark outside the engine. i'll look for a thread on plug wires

 

coil pack fires 1 and 4 at same time the other coil pack fires 2 and 3. wasted spark ignition so 1 and 4 fire each time. you can swap wire from 1 to 4 and 4 to 1 .

try swaping the #1 spark plug with # 2 to rule out spark plug. then 3 and 4 plug

the spark plug caps have a resistor in them unscrew the cap trim end of spark plug wire re attach also ohm out cap see if it is in speck swap cap 1 with 4 see what happens then 2 with 3 .
you can buy plug wire splices and put new longer wires onto coils.

what you are doing above is seeing if problem moves with spark plug then with cap. If problem does not move it would be a carb issue most likely

 

Firing order 1, 2, 4, 3 and the photo looks correct. Is this how they are currently connected?

 

and my 1&4 coil has t-134 boots with about 10k ohms on each. the 2&3 coil has t-133 boots with roughly 5k ohms on each.

 

XJ700 air-cooled models:

Pick-up coils:
120 ohms +/- 20% = 96 ohms to 144 ohms acceptable range


Ignition Coils:

Primary side (input from main wiring harness):
2.7 ohms +/- 10% = 2.43 ohms - 2.97 ohms acceptable range

Secondary side (spark plug wires, without their end caps):
12K ohms +/- 20% = 9,600 ohms - 14,400 ohms acceptable range


Spark plug caps:
1985 N/NC models: 5K +/- 20% = 4,000 to 6,000 ohms per cap acceptable range
1986 S/SC models: 10K +/- 20% = 8,000 to 12,000 ohms per cap acceptable range


Spark plugs:
1985 N/NC models: 0 ohms per plug
1986 S/SC models: 5K ohms per plug

 

the service manual i have is for the "xj700 n/nc". sounds like i need the "s/sc" manual.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor...evel+guage&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313

will this work on my carbs?

 

Yep... same tools I splurged on. If I recall, the thinnest wire is the one I used in the enrichment components. Be careful about the bottom where the hole in the bowl changes direction. And, I don't believe those are completely smooth wires, they have a little 'texture' for cleaning -- you don't want to enlarge the hole. Just clean it out.

After, go into a dark room, shine a good penlight in from the bottom hole and look down the top to see if light glows up from below.. and no microscopic boogers.

 

I didn't see an answer to this, so if someone did I apologize for the redundancy.
The aluminum disc is to replace the anti-tamper plug above the idle mixture needle. It can be recycled or tossed.
The o-ring is to replace the old one on the idle mixture needle. As the o-rings age and harden they will cause a vacuum leak.

 

uhh. crap. i don't remember an oring in there on any of them

 

If you pull the tank you can remove the outer two and check. You might even be able to access the inner two that way.

Each needle should have (in order of installation) a spring, a washer, and one o-ring.

Like so:

 

man... thank you so much for answering the question about the disc and oring. i have to pull them back off to set the float levels anyway. also, one of the idle mix screws stripped. ugggh. going to take all my industrial savvy to get that out without ruining the machined surfaces

 

Carefully drill it out. I forget the drill # I used, but if you measure the O.D. of the main portion of the needle, and add about .001" the head will drill right off without damaging the threads. Use a left-twist drill and it might even back out before you drill the head off.

But before you do that, put a drop of superglue on your screwdriver, let it set up on the screwhead, and see if it'll come out. Valva lapping compound might work too; gives the screwdriver more bite.


The needle I had to drill out of my Virago project:

 

i want you to know you guys are awesome. i help moderate r/dodgedakota on reddit so i do my share of giving information freely. it's my dream to ride a bike across the U.S. some day. you are helping make that dream possible. i am very grateful. "i can't, WE CAN"

 

∆That∆ is what makes this place the best.
People helping people.
And only a few sarcastic jerks.

 

This is the float level tool I got from eBay. Notice the two surfaces aren't level. I send the seller a message that it seems like the tool won't be accurate and his response is...

"Hi that is the way the tool is when pushed together and then spread apart
they are level,thanks Jeremy

-days_extreme2006"

I don't have a machinist square to check it with but his logic seems fundamentally wrong

 

Ya, the tool was tweaked. It will serve to get the floats in the ballpark so you can do the final wet-set though.

I'd leave some carefully worded negative feedback, mainly because of the seller's response.