XJ1100 - The honeymoon is over

If you follow the "What did you do to your Yamaha today?" thread you may have read that I bought a 1982 XJ1100 this last weekend and that it "runs like a dream". Well I have put about 400 km on it since then I have found some issues that will have to be taken care of. In no particular order...

#1
I don't know if this is a feature of the XJ1100 but I cannot start the bike unless it is in neutral. I expect to be able to start it in gear if I have the clutch lever pulled in. Is this right or should I be looking for a problem with a switch on the clutch lever?

#2
This morning when I started her up the starter engaged very briefly but then seemed to slip and just whirl. It did this a couple times in a row and then on my 4th attempt it engaged properly and the bike started. I had already warmed the bike for a couple minutes but then stalled it and was having to restart it.

#3
The battery warning light is coming on. I understand this is because I have a no maintenance battery so the level sensor has nothing to sense. I believe I read about a mod with a resistor that will remedy this.

#4
She seems to have a hanging idle once she warms up. I did not notice this until I rode to work and had to sit in some traffic. I have read that this can be due to vacuum leaks or not being properly synced. I can see that the 2 outside boots have some cracks in them. I guess I will have to start working through the checklist; adjust the valves, clean the carbs, replace the shaft seals, etc..

#5
In addition to the hanging idle I think I observed the tachometer sticking. Maybe it is just my imagination but the tach was reading 3K but the bike felt like it was idling at 1000. It wasn't just stuck in one position, it was more like there was an offset so that it was always reading +2000k. Does anybody know about the tachs on these xj1100 and if what I am describing is possible? I havn't looked yet but I suspect that it has a mechanical tachometer instead of an electric one. Is that a thing?

Other then these minor issues it is an awesome bike. I really like the rear disk break and how the rear break pedal (I don't know if you can call it a 'rear' anymore) actually works both the rear caliper and one of the front calipers. This is probably a standard feature on new bikes but I don't ride new bikes This bike can stop almost as well as she goes.

 

It will have some quirks that any older bike has.
Carb boots get cracks. Carbs need syncing. Starter clutch can fail. Switch on handle bar is suspect. Tach has always been electric on 1100 motors from day one and spiders do make webs in the works. Linked brakes are for riders that forget to use front brake in a panic situation.

 

Someday I'd like to have an 1100 as well. My friend, the honeymoon has just begun!

 

#1. The clutch lever switsh is probably bad, or unplugged.

#2 Starter clutch slipping. Not unusual, and even when rebuilt they sometimes slip when warm. The first step is to make sure that the starter brushes are in good condition, and that all of the electrical connections are clean and deoxidized (as well as making sure that the battery load-tests good). If the starter isn't spinning fast enough the clutch will slip, even if it was brand new.

#3 The resistor value might be different for the 1100, but I think it's probably the same Brake Warning Light

#4 almost eveyone deals with this at some point. Age does it's thing to rubber parts.

#5 It has an electronic tach. It could be that the bearings for the needle need to be cleaned and lubricated, or that there is an electrical fault.

 

And change the oil in the engine. If someone used a non-wet clutch rated oil, or added any friction reducers to the oil, it can also cause the starter clutch to slip or spin.

 

My buddy wants me to buy his 1100 maxim ...agree with all the above , change oil put in new plugs think on the 1100 they are NGK bp 6 es and fresh air filter if it still had stock airbox . Keep us informed of progress.

 

And go ahead and check the valve clearances.........and change the fork oil while you're at it too!

 

Check the date codes on the tires and the brake lines.

 

The tires are fairly new but the break lines are dated 1982 so they will have to go. I put stainless steel on my xj700 and it was pretty expensive. The xj1100 has even more lines so I am not looking forward to that. I had better hurry before somebody puts a tariff on auto parts!

 

I'd say that the hospital bill would still cost more than the brake lines, but...

 

Do you know if the xj1100 uses the same shims as the xj700? I found a good local supplier here for the xj700 shims.

The fork seals are still working well. Hopefully I will be able to drain and refill the forks without disassembling them.

There is an adjustment knob on the top of each fork. I haven't played with it yet. I wonder if there is a owners manual available on- line? The rear shocks are pretty bouncy. I'm not sure but I think I may be bottoming out when I hit a bump.

 

I'm in the Great White North so free health care. Haha

No, I will definitely do the break lines. The sight glass also needs replacing because you can no longer see through it. I replace that too on my xj709. It doesn't leak or anything but I'm not very happy with the job I did applying the gasket gunk.

 

That is a good point. The PO did say that he had just changed the oil. I will drain and refill with some Rotella and hopefully that is what is causing the starter clutch slip. I think I have an oil filter for my xj700 still. Does the xj1100 use the same filter?

The PO did say he just put a new battery in but I will test it. It would not be my first new battery that was not keeping a full charge.

 

They don't cross on the Yamaha parts fiche.
I think that the XJ1100 filter is physically larger, but check with Chacal.

 

It seems like the linked brake is a great feature to me. On my xj700 I really only use my back brake because I'm supposed to. It really isn't very effective at all. On the xj1100 it works better than the front. This could be because the rear is a disc too. Also I'm not sure yet if the front works both front calipers or just one.

 

Sadly I am putting a bid together for a new contract so I have no time to play motorcycle mechanic this weekend.

 

This is correct.

 

The xs750/850 and xs1100 share similar designs and oil filter.

 

So the engine won't start if the bike is not in neutral even with the clutch pulled in. This is really inconvenient if you stall the bike at an intersection because you need to find neutral again before you can restart it. (I have stalled it a few more times than I am proud of).

I was going to see if the clutch switch needed cleaning but it turns out that there is no cable connected to the clutch switch at all!

Where am I going to find a replacement cable?

 

As far as I know, what you need is an entire clutch switch. There are little plastic range you depress and it pops out of the lever/perch. New/replacement snaps in, wires run to headlight bucket (usually), plug it in and you're in business.

 

I wonder if the wire has been stuffed into the headlight assembly. Do you know if the wire has a connector on the other end or if it is spliced into the harness?

 

The other end of the wire should be inside of the headlight bucket. Unfortuantely the switch was discontinued by Yamaha a few years ago, but I'm fairly certain that Chacal has some in stock (start a conversation with him). If not then you an find them used on Ebay all day long (and occasionally score an NOS one).
As a temporary measure you can connect the two wires with a jumper to bypass the switch. There are two bullet connectors that attach the switch pigtail to the wiring harness.

 

Hi Paul if your stuck it’s the same as the ones I have for XJ650 Xj700n and xj750j

 

I'll open up the headlight bucket and see what I have to work with on the other end.

Do I need to remove the leaver to get the old switch out?

 

So I'm attempting to do my valves and replace the air filter today.

Looks like it still has the original fuses.

I think one of the bolts holding down the rear master brake cylinder fluid cover has been snapped off. I will address this when I replace the original brake lines.

The glass has deteriorated on the rear. @chacal is that the same part as the glass on the front?



The PO is using a block of wood to hold the air filter in place. It seems to be doing the job but it may be affecting the air flow. I see the original part has some holes in it to allow for air flow. @chacal do you have the original part?

 

There is a small hole underneath that you push up on a tab that will release the switch.

 

I will only need the one shim to get my valves in spec. BMW is closed on Mondays so I will have to wait one more day to get my new shim.

It would have been nice if Yamaha had put some marks on the cam so we would know definitively when the cam lobe is in the right position for checking the clearance. I hate having to eyeball it.

 

Yamaha did. They made the lobe egg-shaped. Roll the cam around until the tip of the egg is 90 degrees straight out from the surface of the shim. Now check your clearance.

 

Why didn't I think of that?!? I've ruined a perfectly good protractor for nothing!

 

I only needed one shim on the #1 intake. Everything else was in spec. Good thing because the bandits at BMW charged me $25 for the shim. Last year they only charged me $7 which I thought was expensive at the time.

 

Syncing the carbs has made a big difference. It appears to have solved the hanging idle issue I was seeing but I can't be sure until I start it up cold tomorrow.

The xs11 and xj11 transmissions don't shift very smoothly on a good day and the hanging idle was making it worse.

I colour tuned her with a blanket over my head which worked out well. 1, 2,and 3 were all running lean but #4 didn't need adjusting.

 

Maybe one or more shift forks is bent. Mine shifts as smooth as silk. Also, I moved the washer on the countershaft to keep from another blown second gear.

 

Yes, maybe that is the case. From what I read on the xs11 forum it sounded like it was normal for it to clunk from gear to gear, kinda like when you shift into first when stopped except with every gear. Its not so bad now that the RPMs come down quickly when I release the throttle and pull the clutch but it was clunking pretty good shifting at 5-6k.

It doesn't pop out of gear at all which I think moving the washer is supposed to help fix.

Is a bent fork something that can be easily identified?

 

I did some searches on bent forks and @k-moe pointed out that a bent fork would only affect 2 gears. I guess its possible that more than one fork is bent.

I did notice that the clutch is slipping sometimes when I am accelerating hard in the higher gears. I will have to service the clutch. I know that a worn clutch can make it difficult to shift a car transmission. I'm not sure if the same would apply to a bike clutch.

 

Once it starts popping out of gear it's too late for the washer move.

I you decide to do the washer move over the winter, the shift forks have to come out. I believe you will be able to detect any existing damage to them.

BTW, I did mine through the pan with the bike upside down. It took a long time to hold my mouth just right, so the countershaft would drop back in.

A slipping clutch is usually worn friction plates. Some choose to use heavier springs instead. The XJ1100 uses the same plates and springs as the XS650, which allows you more purchase options.

 

@JetmechMarty I read through the xs11 forums again on clunky transmissions and it looks like you are the only dissenting opinion there. Still it gives me hope that yours shifts smoothly so that is what I will aim for.

I was keen to pull the clutch apart but I thought maybe I would see what adjusting the clutch cable would do first.

The cable looks to be in good shape and moves freely when it is not connected.

I followed the Tech Tip on xs11 to make the adjustment. It took quite a few turns out to get the clutch to engage. I'm not sure but I think that is an indication that the plates are wearing.

It may be shifting a bit smoother now. I'll open her up next to check for wear, warping, and scorching, to see what I need to order.

 

To be sure, I'm fussy about getting that stuff right. What you're doing will help. Your bike should drop right into gear when you shift. You should not feel the dogs sliding across the slots. I hope this helps. There are plenty of people at XS11.com riding the bike because it was cheap. They won't or aren't capable of getting it right. Same as any old bike forum.

Here's mine.

 

Nice looking bike! I like the look of the handle bar on yours much better than the style they put on the XJ. It looks lime the seat might be a bit lower too.

Here is mine again so I have a full image for this thread.

 

I found a clutch switch for $5 at the shop by my work. It plugged in on both ends so it was an easy install. Works like new now so that is one more issue solved!

I also bought an oil filter so I can change out the oil, although I haven't experienced the starter clutch slipping since. I have no idea what the PO put in there or when so it is something that needs to be done anyways. I will drop the oil when I am opening up the clutch.

 

I get a lot of grief for my "stupid" handlebars. I think the low seat is an illusion. That's a very nice looking Maxim. It's certainly worth the effort.

Here's a useful channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/Steptoexs11