1985 Maxim XJ700 winter paint, Polish and tune.

So I've got my XJ in the ol' work shed for the winter, throwing som insulation and a heater in there.
I will be asking questions, tech tips, and specs as I go.
I'll also post some pictures of results etc.
Hope you all enjoy, first pick this weekend when I start the tear down !

 

First tech question.... Calling all members!
My 4:1 Crome exhaust is hella rusty.... Is there any way to restore it?
If not what are my options? Can I paint over chrome?

 

If you sandblast the pipe the paint will stick.
I had the 4 header pipes powder coated on my Seca after sandblasting.
Almost 20 years ago still looks the same. It was a special powder for high temperatures

 

Is powder coating expensive? I havent checked to see if anyone locally does it, might have to send it out of town.
Can they powder coat it chrome? Or am i stuck with choosing a colour?
I know true chroming is a different process, im just not familiar with powder coating.

 

Next question... Speaking of powder coating, is the frame powder coated from the factory or painted?
If i want to touch up the rusty spots should i just dab on some tremclad, or do you guys have a better method?
Thanks in advance!

 

You can have good results just touching the frame with Tremclad and a brush.

I believe the original frame is just paint with lots of hardener in it.
I’m planning to get some chrome powder coating done on my Turbo project, brake plate, brake lever, grab handles, not sure what else yet. It’s not as nice as real electroplating but a lot cheaper.
As to chrome powder coating your pipe you’d have to ask the powder coaters if they offer that for high temperature applications.
I’ve used a commercial powder coater here in Waterloo and he was cheap, I sandblasted and masked the parts first.
I’ve also used a smaller guy who caters to bikes and cars, he was more money. I’d ask around, might be someone in Thunder Bay doing it.

 

Thanks a lot Simmy, exactly the straight foreward answer i needed.
Found There is a place here that powdercoats, ill have to ask about the exhaust as i get it its a special coating for heat.
Ill keep posted

 

The same guy who did my exhaust pipes did the water cooled cylinder block on my Seca. When I picked it up it was a beautiful gloss black. Once it saw service it became wrinkled like the finish Harley use. I was not happy but learned to like it.

 

Here she is is all her glory... Dusty dirty and cold LOL

 

Well simmy, the powdercoat guy in town cant do my exhaust... And the only high heat he can do is that crinkle black you got on your cylinder... Good for 500 degrees F.... Recommended Jet Coat out of arizona... You got someone in Ontario who did your pipes? Id be right pumped to know who.
Anyhow, for now they may just go VHT black... Im considering silver.... Maybe old school asbestos wrap... Idfk?

 

They were called Cambridge Powdercoating.
It was 20 years ago and I see they’re no longer around. My exhaust pipes are a smooth finish but not glossy. I’m going to be doing more for my current project so I’ll ask.

 

That took an hour or so more parts missing aaaand 2 1/2 hrs later... Less parts n less dirt lol!

 

Better first pucture

 

Got clutch out without too much difficulty. Nice feature, doesnt drain the oil on the side stand!
A few steel plates appear to have "hot spots" some fibre discs the tabs look sanded down, assume because there is almost no material left on discs, they were rubbing?
This is the worst plate #5 can i use this? Or should i order a few new ones?
These spots were only on the "flat side" of the plates, not both sides.
Last question, the "flat" or machined side of the plates were facing out, with the more beveled side in, is this correct?

 

If some are worn, they're all worn. If you need some new plates/discs..... do them all at the same time. Otherwise you'll be going in there a lot til they're all done anyway

 

I have a full set of new discs, theyre bathing in oil under the bike in the first pic.
Im just curious about those wierd little "hot spots" on a few of the metal plates, can i use em or are they trash.
My instinct says there straight and not warped so ok to use, just not 100% if its a good idea.
Would rather not spend another $50 and wait a week if they wont affect performance. (Have te time not the dough lol)

 

Well---my PERSONAL approach.....if I can see that something still has life in it, I'll re-use it, knowing that I will end up having to do the just at a future undetermined yet probably inevitable date.

BUT--- my PROFESSIONAL approach.....if I am working on someone else's bike----do it right the first time so:
1. It doesn't come back because it was done right, and doesn't NEED to come back
2. Owner is happy because of #1

It may cost a bit more to do it all at the same time, but in the long run it costs waaaaaaaaay less,

 

Well, because the plates were going to take a while, and i got no cash to buy em, i put em back in.
Im sure it will work fine with brand new discs.
Ooooh fancy

 

O.K. I give... Tried to load information overload hour to find this out but my sh***y ipad keeps crashing....
Theres a raised mark on the clutch cover and a notch on the lever, does this line up with lever at rest,or just contacting?
Judging by the lever angle it appears this is the contact point. Then set free play etc...
Thanks in advance.

 

The marks should line up when the freeplay is removed by pushing the lever towards the front by hand.

Not sure if you read this thread, but it addresses in pretty good detail evaluating parts such as steel plates, clutch basket, etc.

https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/clutches-101-part-1-the-400-550-600s-with-pics.29541/

 

RE: your exhaust headers and pipes, I have used Jet Hot Coatings on a couple of motorcycle exhausts and am very happy with the results. They have 2 places of operation, 1 somewhere in Arizona as the other fellow told you, and 1 in Burlington, North Carolina. They are not cheap by a long shot. I had the 4 headers and crossover for a Kawasaki Concours done close to 10 years ago and it was about $200. That they did not have to sandblast chrome off which is an extra cost. I don't remember what it cost to have my header pipes and collector done for the XJ650 Seca but I am very happy with the result. Shipping costs will be frightening as well. But if you can afford it the results are awesome, quality of work very, very nice. They do a lot of work for top fuel drag racers and such.
John

 

Thanks john! Ill check em out

 

Refurbished the starter today....
Armature just needed a touch of scotch brite n it was mint, dabbed grease on the bushings, good to go.
Almost seemed like a waste of time but better to check than regret! Lol!

 

Never been in a bike alternator before....
I should probly check now that im on that side...
Any early tips?

 

Dont use anything abrasive to clean commutator rings. An eraser works well. There's a line on each brush that shows its discard length, other than that it's pretty straightforward. If you find oil behind that cover the seal behind the rotor needs replacing

 

So, I decided to send my exhaust to Jet Hot. They quoted me $205 US plus shipping but including sandblasting the chrome off. Should be abot $300 said n done, if i ship n pickup from the States. Ill keep posted.
I welded the tip at the 7" mark, removed the clamp and welded it at the collector, should appear 1 piece when its done.

Otherwise, i spend 50-80 on paint and a whole day or more prepping, paint twice including two installs and removals to cook paint on, and probably have it rust before summer is over.

 

Question me this...
During my other repairs and cleanup, i noticed the bushings in my footpegs are effed.
Can i replace the bushings? Or do i need pegs? Or does someone have a fix for this?
Thanks in advance!

 

Oh yeah, heres the other side right now...
I gotta take better pictures, but this Ipad sux... Lol!

 

Got this done tonight.... The unpolished alternator cover on the right was supposed to give contrast but the lighting dudnt help.... Anyways, next set of blacked out bolts ready too

 

1st, You can clean the pipes up by using some W/D40 and aluminum foil. 2nd: Get rid of that turn out and get a pipe back on it. Unless you are capable of rejetting the carb to match that open pipe, you are loosing hp and opening yourself up to burning out exhaust valves. 3rd, reusing the burned clutch steels will cause the clutch to "chatter". When the plates are "burned", 99/100 times they are warped as well. Did you check/replace the springs? Put a good clutch kit in, (Barnett steels, fibers and 10% over springs) and you only have to do it once.

 

Well the pipe is already at Jet-hot getting ceramic coated.
I bought the bike with pipe and pods 3 years ago, apparently set up right, it runs fine except under 3000 Its a bit touchy if you mash on it, but im sure thats just from lack of vaccuum, it runs fine at any other RPM.
The discs with hot spots are straight, not warped and the spring free length was in spec, it went back in.
Fibers are EBC, $75CAN for all instead of $26 each from barnett.

 

Btw, clutch never chattered, it slipped a bit in the top of second, or if you downshifted hard into 3rd to pass.
The fibers were completly worn out, and burnt, im sure it will be fine now.

 

So the weather warmed up enough to keep the shed warm, back at the ol XJ!

 

Heres a pic of the pipe, back from JetHot

 

Got the carbs apart right now, nice and clean, bit of very fine rust dust in the bowls, otherwise niiiice.
For anyone wondering it appears to be jetted up for the pipe and pods, as i expected, it runs too nice.
Main is #118 pilot #42.5

 

Ok, got the valve cover off, checked all the valves.
Im. Gonna use standard... Nobody shoot me!
Spec is .004-.006" in .006-.008" ex
#1+2 are 6 n 8
#3 is 5 n 7
#4 is 4 n 6
Question me this....
Does tis indicate a problem? Dont think so..
I know looser is better on F/A engine valves so.... Should i do #4now? Or in spec is in spec, F it, check in 25000k?

 

Btw, throwing a late thanks out to chitwood, eraser trick worked mint (dollar store!)
No oil, thanks for the heads up!

 

So this turned out real nice... Lot of work tho...
No one replied to my clearance question so im saying in spec is in spec, and putting it on with my nice new gasket from chacal tomorrow!
You can see where im going with grab handles in the background, post a pic when theyre done.

 

Ok, so im planning to drag race my bike this summer
I have to install a tether cord aka lanyard ignition stop. Where is the easiest place to tap into the kill wire, without cutting into the harness? Tank is off but i assume headlight bucket connectors?
And to be sure, its the black with white tracer, correct?
Thanks!

 

Heres where im at

 

Cleaning up some of the accesories!

Stage 1...

 

Now just got the petcock to go...

 

This photo doesnt do justice, but i got those petcock parts shiny!

 

Whats the best way to take this sticker off?
Mind you its kinda retro... Vintage... Should i leave it?

 

It's kind of like the bikes history. If it were me I'd probably leave it but to each his own

 

Paint stripping air gun? Some chem tool and a cloth or "Q" tip. The good news is no paint to worry about coming off with it.

 

Replace it with a sticker from Xcaliber, anyone from Thunder Bay will get this!

 

Haha No thank you.

 

You can hook up the tether switch in place of the sidestand switch.
Standard setup cuts the ignition when the sidestand is deployed. It should be easy enough to wire your tether to do the same thing, and have it connect with bullet terminals just like the sidestand switch does.


Is the dealer sticker paper, or foil?

 

Ok thanks ill just wire it in parallel so they both work
Its like a foil plastic thing, however i think i might leave it as like its birthmark