1982 XJ550 Maxim rebuild

The studs from NL are in and are correct. The studs between 1-2 and 3-4 have been replaced, the front ones are correct with the plastic sleeve. I could not find the other OEM plastic sleeved studs anywhere in the world (online). I'm getting the other 5 from Len so hopefully the case will be ready soon. I still have to strip it and paint it but the forks and wheel need to be finished so I have a rolling frame again.

 

Well, since the only studs I need Len only has gold-plated diamond-encrusted OEM ones I cleaned the others up and stuck them back in. If they feel like they are stretching during break-in I'll have to fork out the cash. As it is right now I've gotta work with what I have. I'm going to re-use the rings, I can't justify $250 for a set of rings for a toy project when the bores are in stock shape and were not leaking. So, it's all going back together soon. Pics to follow and possibly a re-assembly video of the top-end. Sometimes, I just want to get it done and don't want to screw with the video, memory card issues and staging.

 

Well it started out well. Everything is still in OE spec surprisingly except for the pins. Only a tiny amount of play on the rod for 2 of them, hardly noticeable. Then I bent a ring on #4 because it decided to shift and hang up when I bumped the head down. No, I'm not using a compressor and on beveled and tapered jugs like this. You usually don't need one if the rings float properly and you take your time, plus they are a PITA to get in and out with the studs.

 

4" clamp and 4" PCV pipe will hold the rings. Or just the clamp its self, no big $ and easy to use. IMHO I think it is 4" just need to measure and make sure you get the one you need for holding the rings.

 

WTH man.. really? It is in the hole crooked! Tig and vice grips no match. Used wheel off ebay ordered.. cheaper than the machine shop. I swear this bike hates me.

 

Did you try the acid trick?

 

Acid is not going to repair those threads. That threaded aluminum hole is royally f'd up. The bolt was forced in at an angle. Torch, TIG welded bung and vice grips and still won't even budge. Ripped the cap head right off of it. $55 for another wheel with rotor shipped.

 

Alum will eat the steel bolt without further damaging the aluminum threads. Perhaps they can be straightened up, more likely not but then again you can also put a threader or helicoil in there and you're good to go for way less than $55. Not that having a spare rim around is a bad thing either.

 

What i meant was take 3 tabs of acid and you wont care for the next day or so... Lol!

 

Use a mig or stick welder, theyre hotter, get a nut that will just hammer on the stud, weld it, wait literally only 60 seconds, no more no less, extract stud in one fluid go, even if it tightens, worst case youll pull the threads with it, then you can heliciol, use or spare rim as per chitwood

 

Note on above, use lots of weld, get the stud cherry, heat transfer from stud to aluminum is what your going for

 

And im right off on the time, it seems like 60 but wait about 20 seconds... Sorry

 

I will test the alum at some point. I still have a gas tank that needs more TIG hole work and I still have to find another donor tank since the one I bought was not actually from an XJ frame. I will redo the used rim provided I can actually get the rotor bolts out of it. This thing is going to nickle and dime me out of a project jf it keeps up.

 

what's the plastic sleeve got to do with it ?

 

The plastic helps with corrosion prevention and longevity where water can penetrate from the top of the head. It also helps prevent galvanic reactions that eat it away if it's touching aluminum.

 

Ok, if you say so

 

Feel free to explain why it shouldn't be there instead of making pointless sarcastic remarks.

 

well i kind of think a steel rod rusts faster in a loose fitting plastic tube rather than open air. Are the ones with a tube any less corroded than ones without?
it will stop galvanic reactions if it's touching aluminum somewhere along its length but if that's the case, somethings wrong
maybe the plastic tube isn't necessary so they're not made anymore, but they make plastic tube every day
maybe it keeps them warm at night

 

They are rusted less on this block. The exposed ones have deeper pitting. So, it helped somewhat considering it's 35 years old.

 

Got new ring set in for #4, got the cylinders on. Prepared to bolt the head down and the head gasket I bought 3 months ago went MIA. Gahhhh.. Guess I will move on to tank #3 that just came in. No dents, correct model. Had to drill out the lock cylinder, no key.

 

Got to hate it when those little gremlins move things in the shop. It will show up, has to be there right...?

 

Especially as expensive as those head gaskets are!

 

Found it!





Why??? One freakin valve cover hole has no sign of any threads. Good thing I have the Time-Sert master kit still around.




Resized the hole and counter-sunk it for the insert.



An M6x1.0 steel insert and some red Loctite. Permanent repair in less than 10 mins.



Stripped the tank today. Barely any rust.

 

Re: head studs. I would think that it would be more economical, and perhaps a better practice, to use the plain studs and powdercoat them. I've been thinking about that since at some point the studs on my engine will need to be replaced (likely when I have the original cases repaired).

 

Have them melonited, cheaper and will not flake off. It will also strenghten the threads.

 

The reason I was thinking about powdercoating is that I can do it at home on small parts. Well, if I ever get a spare oven to do it in.

Which brings up the thought.....I can already rust-blue things at home....hmm....

 

Hot blue it, don't buff it and you have traditional black phosphate that bolts get. Cold blue is shallow and will likely rust from repeat condensation. A friend of mine has an old oven in his shop just for powder coating his parts. Snag one from the scrap yard/craigslist that has a good door for cheap. If you have a good place to electro-dust the parts you could do parts for people on here. I thought about it but I have no time to devote to it right now.

 

I'm not talking about cold bluing with the rub-on stuff. Traditional rust bluing is quite durable, and has better rust resistance than hot bluing if done correctly. The downside is that it can take several weeks to get rust blue to a deep finish.
The studs shouldn't contact the sides of the holes for the bluing to wear anyway.

I don't currently have roomin the garage for an oven, but an upcoming move may remedy that.

 

The donor front rim looks amazing. Going to clean it with steel wool and clear coat it as-is. The bearings and seals are getting replaced. Then a new stem and tire.

 

Case front got some engine paint. Will do sides and rear next weekend.

 

Now youe going to have to paint the valve cover too. See what sprucing things up gets you? More work

 

I painted it already. seems the gloss is fading on it, might have to coat it again.

 

Maybe not. What I see as wear and chips might just be reflections from the light.

 

Yeah, some of it has chipped off already from banging it around. Not a durable finish apparently. I'll probably redo it later at this point. I just want it all back together so I can break it in and adjust the lifter shims. The case has rough corrosion surfaces in some areas but I'm not going to tear the case apart and sand every nook and cranny, it'll just get beat up on the road anyway there.

 

Front wheel is dry. Just installed new bearings and seals. Might put the tire on and balance tomorrow night.

 

Well, I don't give much chance of the front caliper of coming back to the world of functionality. The pads are horrible, the grease port is corroded and there was water in the fluid bay long enough to make rust soup.

 

I've brought worse back from the dead. Use a grease gun to pop the piston out. Likely all you'll need is a new piston and seals to set it all right.

 

Looks like the piston was pAinted into the caliper, a brass brush and some fogging oil, you can probly save it
May not need to even replace stuff, carefull with front brakes tho

 

The piston has been marred up at this point so I am in for a full rebuild or replace now. It will not budge at all. Going to torch the piston well tomorrow night and try to get it broke free.

 

If its that badmaybe save the trouble and find a good used one?

 

I work at a used atv n sled shop, ive found especially with brakes its usually easier n chaper to get a good used then try to rebuild an effed up one, speaking from experience...

 

if they're good and they're used, somebody rebuilt them

 

The grease gun trick does work great. If you feel the time will be wasted working on them, just get functional used. Soaking it for a while and then the grease gun trick should get the puck out. Using copper brush to get all the crud off and then hitting it with some polish and a polishing wheel could do the trick. As long as the puck moves out seals should be the only thing you need to rebuild. Again, this is only if you want to take the time to try to save them.

 

I'll make a decision on a rebuild if the piston will even come out. I have to get a large grease gun instead of the pistol-grip I use for more force. If not, I'll have to try to find a deal on a used caliper. Are there any model crosses that fit so I'm not limiting myself with the engine size? It's a single caliper, single piston, so I would suspect possibly the 650 Maxim has the same caliper? Fork oil and seals came in. Guess I'll be working on stripping and repainting the bodies next. The tubes look great so nothing to do there.

 

If you use a parts lookup site like partzilla.com, you can look up the part number and then click on that to get the fitment. That way you are not guessing. Caliper works on these models:

Yamaha Motorcycle 1981 XJ550H FRONT BRAKE CALIPER XJ550H

Yamaha Motorcycle 1982 XJ550J FRONT BRAKE CALIPER XJ550J K

Yamaha Motorcycle 1983 XJ750RK Front Brake-Caliper

Yamaha Motorcycle 1982 XJ750RJ Front Brake-Caliper

Yamaha Motorcycle 1982 XV920J Front Brake-Caliper

Yamaha Motorcycle 1981 XJ750RH Front Brake-Caliper

 

+1 The 650 Maxim uses a very different brake caliper. You would not be happy if you bought one and tried to make it fit.

 

Mulitple torchings, smokin soaks with PB Blaster inside, a 2ft piece of 3/16" wall dom pipe, an old pair of locking pliers and a vise. The seals had glued themselves to the piston. Bore has been polished with steel wool and just got a coat of frame paint. Will order a piston rebuild kit.

 

i still like my steam

 

Way to stick with it!

 

Steam pot soak? It would have likely worked in this case since it wasn't rusted to the bore. No way to really tell and the chamber had rust soup in it, so I expected way worse.