1979 XS1100 Not a XJ900 but it will do for now

I have been looking for the XJ900 for some time in my area. I have had no luck for a project bike. But out of no place drops a full 79 XS1100 with both side covers and the adjustable back rest! I am very happy. Brakes are locked up and the gas smells like varnish, so normal for these bikes. Lots of work to be done and get some pics on here to show off the new toy and project.

 

Do for now?
Are you nuts?
An XS-11 is a keeper!

 

Ya that is why I dropped everything I was doing to run and get the tailor and start the 2 hr drive. I will get her in the shop today and get some pics on here. Bike was garage kept and seems to be in good shape. The fun begins.

 

Okay here she is...and the green carbs.
DSCN0255 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
DSCN0254 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
DSCN0256 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
DSCN0259 by Tim Brown, on Flickr

 

The 1979 XS1100SF is my favorite. The downside is that it’s unique. Many parts are only for that one bike and like finding hens’ teeth. Yamaha dropped the parts catalog for that model. Someplace, I have a copy. I just have to find it. Good luck with it!

 

Had a little issue with the carbs, but nothing that can't be taken care off. I was shocked to see the throttle body seals were good??? How was that possible..anyway, will finish up cleaning the carbs and have to solder one of the floats back on...don't ask.
Got the tank all filled up with vinegar to take care of any issues in the tank. Carbs back together and run the AUX gas to her and see if she will run. I am guessing she will and then to the other normal stuff, valves, brakes and electrical.

 

Looks like a great find!!

 

Got the carbs all taken care of today, all but putting throttle shafts back in. I had to order bowl gaskets as they were maybe original? The little hole at the bottom of the bowl took so long to open up. I had them soaking over night and still not open with air. Had to get the break loaf tie out and hit it with that. Took longer than I wanted it to, but they are good now.
The solder job on the float went well, I thought I would have to get another set. With a little flame heat and being safe, it went on and even level with the other float.

Valve cover came off today and look clean inside with lots of good clean oil in the upper part of the engine. Did the clearance check and looks like someone must have just did them. They only messed up on the EX 3 & 4, the mixed up the shims. Good think I have at least one spare hanging around, I will swap them out tomorrow.

This bike has a vacuum advance on it, that will be interesting. I will be changing out all the hoses as they are very old. I will get some pics soon.

 

It has both vacuum and mechanical advance. When you get in there, be sure to clean and lube the mechanical advance.

 

Thanks for the heads up on that. I know how nasty some of those can be, this one seems to have been in a good dry place or just had a good gasket on the cover. Interesting whey they would have both. The fuel "octopus" is really strange.I guess the early version of the vacuum one and off for the fuel.

 

The octopus was intended to keep stuck floats from filling the crankcase with gas. It works.
Has nothing to do with the vacuum petcock.

 

Agreed. No vacuum petcocks on 11 Special. The vacuum shutoff is a safety device. I elected to keep mine in working order. Many folks throw it away.

 

Have you signed up at xs11.com?

 

What a beast.

The octopus works just like a standard vac-operated petcock, on the XS11 (and XJ1100 models) that used that system, you can just think of the octopus as the "back half" (the vacuum part) of a standard petcock. It still won't prevent flooding if all the other conditions (that cause flooding) are present...........

 

I am having it or miss luck over at the sx11.com site. They are either up or down and not constant in either one. I keep trying to get a much info as I can when it is up. I have not tried to sign up yet but will if I can ever time it when the site is up and running well.

Did the back brake today, had to use the grease gun trick to get the puck out. Once it was out, it was easy to polish on the wheel. The rubber gasket was okay but all the brake fluid had dried around the gasket and I would guess making is stick. Once I cleaned and polished it all, seems to work well. Interesting little bracket on the back right side of the swing are that hold the slave in place. Interesting getting it back in place. I also cleaned all the nasty old grease from inside the splines of the rear wheel. Plastic guard on this rear hub compared with the newer bikes went all aluminum.

I will gets some pics on here tomorrow, I was busting my butt between the bike and my food plot and the weather. All good now and more time for the bike.

 

XS11.com is broken. You can't join it right now. I don't know if it will get fixed or go away. It's a shame as there is a lot of valuable information over there. The site is still up and I believe you can search it without signing in.

 

You can join. There is red text that leads the way. They closed the automated sign-up system to combat bot-spammers.

 

Here are a few pics. This is the vacuum advance, I have not seen the mechanical one as listed above, but it could be hiding under the ignition pickup.
DSCN0263 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
DSCN0265 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
Here is their version of the rear brake holder. A little interesting, but once you get the hang of it easy to go back in.
DSCN0264 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
Going to have to check the manual on this one, I know how to drain it but how to fill it? Must be the fill port just pops off?
DSCN0266 by Tim Brown, on Flickr

 

On top of the rear drive is a vent. Don’t try to pull it off. Looking at the rear drive, at 3 o’clock there is a fill port. It opens with a hex key after you remove the black plastic cover. Remove it before you drain, just so you’ll know you can.

The bike came with a plastic dip stick in the original tool kit. There is probably little chance that it’s still there. Somewhere on XS11.com there is a template. Maybe somewhere on here? The rear drive is the same as the XJ1100.

Following the red letter instructions to get on XS11.com will get you nowhere. No admin is looking at the site at this time. I hope that changes.

 

Great thanks JetmechMarty, , I was going to look int the manual before I started that job, but ran out of time today. Got the front brakes all taken apart and cleaned. Nasty seal that more or less cleaned up well. Love the high speed polishing wheel I picked up from Harbor Freight. That and some gray polish really takes any blemishes off those brake pucks.

I will try to get on that sight tonight. Got to do more things for the aging folks first.

 

I’m trying to figure out what I’m looking at in regards to your rear brake. I’ve attached a photo of one of mine. It’s an ‘80, but they are the same.

 

In your pic to the left of the bleeder is the top of the brake/swing arm bracket nut.. It connects the rear brake to the axle and to the swing arm. I could not find a way to just get the rear break off by sliding off like other bikes I have had. No way on this one, I had to take the rear axle off, remove rear wheel and that interesting bracket had to get out of the way. Putting it back in was interesting and I think the way you tilt your head and hold your mouth as you wrangle it all back in place helps.

 

Sorry for the upside down pic. I just moved and the garage is packed full. Yes, I think it’s very difficult to remove the rear caliper without removing the axle. Your swingarm will have to come off anyway. I’ll bet the swingarm bearings are dry as a popcorn fart. Also, where the driveshaft goes into the final drive will need moly grease. Don’t forget the middle drive oil!

 

That caliper bracket slides into a rubber grommet on the swingarm. Was yours still there?

 

Yes my PO took okay care of this bike. I see there is a grease fitting at the end of the drive shaft before hit its the rear hub. That might be interesting so see. I just got the carb bowl gaskets in today so I have to get them together and wet level set them. Bench synch and mount them to the bike. I put one coat of black paint on the valve cover, I think it will need more than one. Lots to do yet but I do want to make sure it runs before I get into the drive line. Once I know it is a keeper I will start to do all the fun little stuff.

 

That's sad to hear. Someone from this forum was able to sign up last fall, which is why I mentioned the instructions.

 

Thanks for that, I tried to find the dipstick template but no such luck so far. So this is just like the Suzuki Madura I worked on and has a middle drive. I guess I will just go by the book when I refill the hypo oil and just us a measured method.

 

Admin was taking inactive accounts and turning them over to new people. A bunch of money was recently donated to update the site. The person tasked with the work got sidelined with personal issues. Those of us using the site don't have any idea of what will become of it.

 

That is too bad, I would love to get on that site more and contribute if I could and pick their brains. As for today on the XS, got the throttle bodies back on the carbs and have them ready to be put togeher as a rack. I somehow got the ideal and or throttle carb messed up and had to change the long shaft to that carb. Second coat of paint is done on the valve cover, I will put that on to keep the engine clean.

 

Bench sync done, valve cover not dry yet, cool day here today. I also moved the rags off the top of the valves and broke the gasket. It was old and very brittle so I am guess it is for the best. I don't like to spend money on my mistakes though. We will have steady rain for the next day or two, so bike riding is off anyway. Takes a few days for the new gasket to get here and then I can rig up a fuel line and see if she will run. I also slapped some sealant on the intake carb boot holders. They look to have cracks and better safe than sorry.

 

Just sent a email registration to the XS11.com folks lets see what happens. I was not sure if the folks above tried that or not. As you can tell I got in today and was able to get good info.

 

Have tried over on our XS1100 forum? http://xs1100.com/forum/index.php Got just as much info and without the waiting to see if you'll be accepted.

 

I am having no luck getting the emulsion tubes out of my carbs. I have tried after soaking the cabrs, PB blaster soaking, Chem tool soaking and added some heat today to get them out. They are not moving! Using a small socket working down from the top into the venture and making sure the socket outside is smaller than the jet its self. "They look clean" is not good for me at this point. The gaskets for the valve cover will get here this week and I just hate to button her all up and not get them tubes out and really cleaned. Any advice?

 

Not having issues, having a brain fart. Thank goodness I didn't wack away on those things. For some reason I had in my head the wrong way. How many carb racks I have I rebuild. Anyway, good thing I pulled them and good note for anyone that things they can just spray and clean.
DSCN0271 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
Number 3 was nasty!
DSCN0272 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
So letting them soak for a bit after hitting them with brash brush. Will compressed air them and also a bread tie wire to make sure. The look through light test before they go back in.

 

The middle emulsion tubes are different than the ones on the outside.

 

That is from the tower in the bowl the comes into the venture area of the carb. I have a little one too that feeds the tower with a flat head screw blocking gas from coming up. I was shocked that one and only one was still nasty

 

She lives!!! Got the valve gasket on and was waiting on a "C" list person to show up so I thought what the heck. Put the carbs on and a AUX fuel tank, primed the heck out of the carbs, looked over at the fire extinguisher on the wall just for a reminder and touched the starter. It sure feels good when you know the carbs are good when it starts and sounds so good. Ran at 1k from the bench sync and I didn't even have to adjust the idle, that was just stupid luck! I have to take the carbs back off to get the air box back in place, just I just had to get the bike running.

The head light was not working even though it is good, so that is a trouble for another day. Looking forward to getting the air box and tank back on her. The white vinegar has been sitting for over a week and did a great job. Power washed the inside, hit it with some B12 chem tool to dry it quick and then added about a gal of gas. Put a little mystery oil in there and splashed it around. I am hoping this will stop any flash rusting that could happen.

Not too sure what I will be doing with the gas octopus and or stock petcocks, not too sure I like them. The gas filters on the petcocks that go up into the tanks are more or less shot. Not too sure how the suction thing will work but I do know they turn on and off well.

 

Those screens that fit the fuel cocks are still available from the mothership. This from XS650.com:

So.... turns out the petcock kit from Mikes was a waste of 25 bucks. Never could get a good seal on the diaphragms o-ring. Even stretched the spring about 25% longer and let the seal soak in gas for a few days. Since I got all the other seals from Partzilla, the little o-ring was all I needed... but the old one was too crushed to measure, So I guess the 25 bucks wasn't a total waste.
Anyway.... bought some Viton seals. Installed diameter of Mikes seal was 7.59mm. The Viton installed is 7.94mm. Seals up just fine now and doesn't restrict flow when vacuum pulls it open. Got my happy face on...
Mikes seal is on the left, Viton on the right. It's noticeably bigger....




There's a great tutorial on rebuilding these valves somewhere on this forum.

 

Hey Marty, is this image for the vac diaphragm on the octopus, or on a vac-operated petcock (and if so, which model?)

 

Mine looked much better than that and seems to be working. Rinsed the tank today and after installing fuel filters got the tank back on. I have to admit after the struggles with other bikes and getting the carbs and air box boots on, this bike was not bad. Holding the air box back with a screw driver was all you really need to do. That and the normal wiggle it in and watch all the hoses and cables. The air box boots to on almost with the push forward of the air box. Still need boot clamps to secure them to the back of the carbs.

Changed the oil today, seemed to me more than needed but it didn't smell like gas. Started working on the new fuse box today, may need to lengthen two of the wires to make it fit in the same holes the old once came out of. I sure hate the bus fuse things and really like these bikes with the spade fuses.

Not too sure if I will be keeping the octopus fuel thing or not. It just seems like I always turn petock off all the time so why have it in there. So many hoses and that vacuum things is strange. I did test the tank over night to make sure the fuel off did not leak any gas so I don't have to worry about hypo lock or getting all the fuel in the crankcase.

 

The image is an XS650 vacuum petcock. I am not sure of the year of the bike, but no later than 1981 and no earlier than 1978. My best guess it’s an ‘81. If you need exact, send me email or PM. I’ll find out for you.

BTW, I put a K&L kit in my XS11 shutoff valve and have the same issue.

Timbox, the octopus is a safety device. There's a tipover switch to kill the ignition, then the vacuum shutoff kills the fuel. It's supposed to keep you from being on the ground and on fire.

 

Okay, safety is good, keeping both weeks on the ground is always a good idea. I just can't see the need for it and all the work it takes to use. I think I will be blocking off the one side totally and just using it as a normal on and off petcock. Getting a inline filter in there with all those hoses and not have anything kink or interfere with the operation of the petcocks is the issue. I know the modern bikes have a tip over swx for the fuel pumps to turn off so I understand the fuel issues if she is on her side.

My oil light is not going off, but that was before I changed the oil. Traced the connector to behind the fuse box holder and it was nasty, I am guessing the connection is still working so need to do a little more trouble shooting.

Front light also is not working, might be the swx on the bar doing that. Light is working fine with AUX power is put across elements.

 

I put those little Visu-filters between the carburetors about an inch and a half above the tees connecting the carbs. (I sourced new brass tees from siriusconinc.com) I replumbed everything with Motion Pro Premium Fuel Line. I plastic tees in the lines, I replaced with brass from the hardware store. I plumbed the left tap to the right carburetors and vice-versa. This so I wouldn't kink the line with tight turns. I also have enough line to run the bike with the tank on backwards (where the seat goes), so I can tweak the carburetors without alternate fuel source. Yes, it was a little challenging figuring it all out, but once done, it's done and works just as originally intended. IMHO, it's better that stock. I'm usually a follow the book kind of mechanic. Mostly because I'm not the best at reinventing the wheel.

 

I've done the same as you Marty, and that's plumbing the left fuel tap to the two right carbs and vice versa.
I also blocked off each extra fuel outlet from the taps and chucked the octopus and run my XS on the PRIME setting. If the taps leak or the float valves leak, i'll deal with it come the time.

 

I like that you guys are thinking the same and it worked. The same being that left petcock to right carbs and so on . I think I will run her the way she is now (stock) but with in line filter in line vertical just above the intake boots.

Here is the tank after 1 week with white vinegar DSCN0273 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
Turned out good, rinsed it a bunch of times with water and then added some mystery oil and gas. Removed that gas and put in fresh and tank looks good for now.
Had to put new fuse box in, cover fits over the top so clearance is good. I did solder those solderles connectors, would hate to have one of them come lose down the road.
DSCN0274 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
Now my oil light will not turn off (could be stuck) have not pulled it but shorting the wires at connector does turn off line on cluster.
I also have a headlight issue, the cluster warning light is on and not headlight. As stated before the headlight is good on HI and LOW.

Looks like there is a light relay under the tank that could have gone bad. I will try smacking it to see if that frees it, if not I might as well bypass it. My new battery is a AGM with 300+ CC so I am not too worried about the light.

The oil light seems to be common as well, just contacts on the top of the unit need to be cleaned, we shall see. Thanks XS11.com

 

There’s a diode for the headlight in the harness under the tank. If you look closely at the wiring diagram, you’ll see it. It could be your problem.

 

Well heck still not fixed need more reading. The headlight relay was bad, but adding a known good didn't fix it. I also tried to bypass the RLU and that didn't work. So I guess I will have to make a jumper for the headlight relay to bypass that and work my way to a working headlight. Once light is up and working I can always put a new or replay light relay. To bypass connect R/Y wire with BL/BK wire. Light should light up with key once jumped.

Tapped on the oil swx and moved the contact on top and oil light still staying on when running. The fun of electro mechanical trouble shooting...I do love it though.

 

Just saw your post, I will take a look and see what is up. Very strange how the RLU Reserve lighting unit works and I will be bypassing it. So, a relay, a diode and a RLU just for the headlight. Over engineering, got to love it.

 

Finally got the light taken care of. It is both the light relay and the RLU has to be removed and jumped to make light come on with the key.
DSCN0275 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
The RLU is under the tank close to the seat and by the voltage regulator. That is it on the left in the PIC. Removed it from the main harness and cut and splice Blue/Black wire to Blue/Yellow wire. I also covered the rest of the pins with some liquid rubber just in case water or something would short them.

On the light relay that is located under the tank but up by the coils and has a four wire connector. Remove the relay and add a jumper wire diagonally from Red Yellow/Blue Black wire.

These two are very common issues with the XS1100 bikes.

This will allow you to remove both of the items pictured and have a turn key headlight on. If you don't like this I understand, you can always add another "on/off" swx to the ground wire on the headlight.

 

She is color tuned and sync taken care of, nice running little bike but it is a sit in not a sit on, so not too sure if I will keep her.