Rebuilding my carb

http://imgur.com/gallery/BwenFeM
I bought the deluxe kit to rebuild my carbs. I've started with carb #1 and have the whole thing torn down except for image I posted, should this be disassembled as well? All of the pictures I've found of these they were still assembled in.

Should I sand the scratch down?

Is it ok to Soak this thing in naptha/stoddard solvent? I'm a little worried about the non metal parts. I threw everything in the solvent except for what's pictured and the float. I realize these things live in gasoline so maybe I'm just over thinking this. Should I throw this and the float in the tank?

 

take it apart, the spring in there gets sticky.
did the scratch leave a mark in the bore? if not just forget it.
no solvent, no nothing on that diaphragm, before you put it back, smear some pure silicone grease on it

 

Once you pull the throttle shaft seals from the carb bodies you can soak all of the metal parts (except the slide as Polock mentioned). The float never needs to be in anything but gasoline.
Naptha/Stoddard will be fine, but for carbs that have sat a long time Berryman's carb dip is a better choice.
Are you by chance in the Drycleaning business? The reason I ask is that hardly anyone else refers to Stoddard solvent anymore.

 

No, my cousin works at an oil distribution place and I asked him for 5 gallons of parts cleaner and that's what he delivered up, for free. Beats spending $100 at NAPA.

I've only cracked carb #1 so far but it looked relatively clean inside compared to the outside, though it must not be too clean because it never idled very well. Had to have the choke in all the way until it was warmed up and then a sweet spot about halfway in to run normal or it would either sputter and die or rev up really high. I had some pretty wicked vacuum leaks too though, posted my cracked boots a few weeks ago they were pretty sad.

 

You can't see the places where the varnish and crud accumulates.
Inside your Carbs

 

That's a pretty cool cross section view! Hopefully the solvent and some air will work. I'll run some carb cleaner through it too, hopefully that clears out the gunk. I didn't buy the drill bit from Chacal but I did steal a couple of the smallest fractional bits we have from work so I can try those as a last resort.

Oh He sent me a bag that says "float valve" with a nice new shiny sliver needle but I've no clue how to separate the old brassy valve from the U hanger thing that hangs off of the float, looks almost like a tiny washer somehow holds it on? Looks like something I'm going to end up breaking, any suggestions

There's also a bag of idle mix washers I don't remember seeing on the carb supand some super small o-rings with the same story.

This is for an 82 xj750 if that's any help.

 

I used a nozzle drill from my .04mm 3D printer kit to clean the small jets on my 550. Berrymans dip is the best solution I have tested for cleaning out crusty carbs. It works even better in an ultrasonic cleaner. Even with that, though, I still had to manually remove deposits from some of the pores on the main tube and soak the small bits more than once.

 

The hanger is a spring-clip. it pops off sideways from the needle. Look in the groove to find were the gap is and use needle nose pliers on the upright part of the hanger to pop them off. Grab the upright part so they don't fly away when removed.

The small washers and o-rings are to replace the ones on the idle mixture screws (needles). If you didn't see those when you removed the idle mixture screws then they are still in the bores. Take a sewing needle, heat the tip, and bend a small hook into it. You now have a retrieval tool.

Install the spring onto the idle mixture screw first, then the washer, and finally the o-ring. The flat discs of aluminum can be dispensed with. They are replacement anti-tamper plugs.

 

i think that's going to be way too big

 

Perhaps a tip cleaner for a cutting torch? Have a set on the bench here...

 

That's more like it.

 

I'm wondering if I completely missed that, is this the tamper cap? This circle thing?
http://imgur.com/gallery/hHcXBu0

 

yes that's the anti tamper plug

sounds like you did not remove the mixture screw under the anti tamper caps. that's where the washer and o ring go

are your float valve needles all metal if so the clip is not used per xj4ever catalog


HCP17176 Aftermarket Hitachi FUEL INLET - FLOAT VALVE ASSEMBLY, contains the fuel inlet - float valve needle, the brass screw-in valve seat, and the seat washer. NOTE: this set contains a non-clipped, metal-tipped needle (rather than the original rubber-tipped needle).

 

Ah that explains it. To be honest I don't think I've got any of the needles out yet, think I just undid the screws (jets?) above them. Looks like the emulsion tube is still in as well.

 

the emulsion tube goes up through the top of carb to remove. you may need a small dia wood dowel to tap it out if it is stuck.

the antitamper cap is removed by drilling with a small bit then using a sheetrock screw to screw into it and pull out . do not drill deep as you will hit the mixture screw the cap is not that thick about an 1/8 of an inch.
you should also clear hole with air to remove the shavings then treat mixture screw with penetrating oil to help it break free incase it is stuck.

that tiny oring is in there at the bottom make sure you get it out

brass jets under the diaphragm are air jets main and pilot the plunger to right of mix plug is the enrichment (choke) plunger.

 

IN THE CHURCH OF CLEAN
Replacing your Hitachi throttle shaft seals
Setting the fuel levels
Inside your Carbs

 

I m guessing you have not read this you should before going any a deeper into your carbs or read it again
IN THE CHURCH OF CLEAN

slow at keyboarding I am

 

But a padawan no longer, you are.

 

[/QUOTE] Aftermarket Hitachi FUEL INLET - FLOAT VALVE ASSEMBLY, contains the fuel inlet - float valve needle, the brass screw-in valve seat, and the seat washer. NOTE: this set contains a non-clipped, metal-tipped needle (rather than the original rubber-tipped needle).[/QUOTE]

So the new one wouldn't hang off of the float anymore? I got the old clip off, was trying to figure out how to get the washer off that was right above it (is that the seat washer?). Maybe it's just one piece?

 

Aftermarket Hitachi FUEL INLET - FLOAT VALVE ASSEMBLY, contains the fuel inlet - float valve needle, the brass screw-in valve seat, and the seat washer. NOTE: this set contains a non-clipped, metal-tipped needle (rather than the original rubber-tipped needle).[/QUOTE]

So the new one wouldn't hang off of the float anymore? I got the old clip off, was trying to figure out how to get the washer off that was right above it (is that the seat washer?). Maybe it's just one piece?[/QUOTE]

photo of washer would be good . only washer on float valve assembly is under the valve seat that the needle inserts into. you have to unscrew the body.
valve seat unscrews, seat washer is under the valve seat

edited for terminolgy