1996 BMW R1100GS

Well it is three and a half hours away and I am making the trip in the morning. Guy said he will hold it for me (had not had any hits on add) so here is hoping.

I will post some pics of it if and when I get it. It could be a dead pig or the side of the bike I can't see in the pics might be trashed. If so, I will not buy it and enjoy the nice winter drive home...empty. I hope the seller is a good person and is selling it with good intent.

No title, the owner walked on it and purchased another BMW.

 

Look for any signs of the engine rear main seal leaking. Replacement requires splitting the bike in two (basically).

 

k-moe, thanks for the heads up. I am still waiting for the full story from the guy, but for the price if I have to I can make it up in parts, not that I want to. My off road riding days are coming to a slow halt. I love my KLR650 but I think if I can get the R1100 running I will like the power better. The KLR will move down the road this spring if this all works out.

Thanks again!

 

-18 this morning when I left, windy as heck but she is in my stable.
DSCN0160 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
DSCN0159 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
DSCN0162 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
DSCN0161 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
Older guy had it, dropped it in a parking lot, broke the wind screen and right side HID light off. Need to run through the fuel system and check all the fluids and safety bits. Really nice shop owner took it in on trade for a Concourse he had it on hand.

Don't mind that white stuff in the background, it is a figment of our imaginations here in Wisconsin. It will go away if we just pretend it is not there

 

Jeez look at the snow Scotland is warm compared with Wisconsin. I like the look of the BMW's never tried one but mabe one day. I would be interested to hear how you get on getting the machine fixed.

 

After removing the rest of the snow off the roof, got to work on the bike today. Removed the broken HID light and some some epoxy going, should be okay to remount. Removed the wind screen side that was broken and the holding plate from under the headlight. That along with one of the engine guards will need to be welded.

The battery is so old and frozen that I don't know if it will take a charge? I will check it in the morning as to see if I can crank the bike. Took a look in the tank and the gas look clear and good, was happy about that.

Got to do the relay puzzle today, the guy I got the bike from was using my bikes relays to test other BMW's in his shop. Took a bit but all the lights came on and the fuel pump pressurized and stopped.

I have a feeling that the battery will be toast and that will need to be replaced. Just the price of looking after older bikes. Really hoping this bike just fires up it has enough battery power behind it to turn over.

Need to future out a way to get them spark plugs out, hoping I do not have to get a BMW spark plug tool.

 

Got the tank drained and off the bike, wow does that tank hold a lot ofgas. It was not clear as I thought but a little tan. I think it is a good thing I drained and will use new. The battery did not take a charge, it is a BikeMaster Gel, thinking that the gel somehow froze and just will not take a charge again. All the local stores do not have a replacement, so ordered on line, waiting on mail.

Removed the HID AUX lights and wiring, if I use them I will move the relay, fuse and excess wire to a more user friendly location. I can see no reason to ever pull the gas tank again unless the battery goes bad. I noticed when the bike was charging the little power swx LED was on. I guess the PO wanted to hit those lights without the key in the bike. I always try to run all the AUX stuff on a bike with swx power only. That way you don't have a dead battery out in the middle of no mans land just because you missed or bumped a button or swx.

 

I have been reading up on dead gel batteries and if they can be brought back to life? I guess they can. If you have a gel compatible charger, or if you run the gel battery in series with a led acid battery and us a conventional charger, it will work.

The battery in this bike was sitting in a steel transport shed for 3 yrs, hot and cold temps along with with a constant small drain on the battery killed it. I could tell when I brought it into a warm area, the gel was frozen. At first my charger (conventional) said it was "bad" but then after it warmed up a bit and trying it a few times, it started to take a charge. Putting it on a battery tender type charge seemed to do the trick.

It will not go back into the bike, but it is nice to know it can be revived, although I have not yet tested it to see how the DCV and or amps hold up.

 

Got the battery in, K&N filter cleaned, dried and new oil. Put the tank back on and add a little high octane gas. Turned the key on and system pressurized hit the key and well, she turns over, spark @ the plugs but no engine run. I have it a little starter fluid and it did try to run. I will pull the fuel injectors tomorrow and give them a good clean. Still have the wire and battery setup from the K100 I worked on a yr ago. Hoping that will be it, then I can put it on the lift and work on the side stand issue. Needs to be either tightened or re-tap the hole that is there and put in a bigger bolt. I think I will extend the side stand too, don't like it when the lean so far over.

 

Careful with lengthening the side stand. The GS bikes carry their weight up a little higher than an XJ does. Wouldn't want to see her tip over from the wind.

 

k-moe thanks, I think it is a common issue wit the R1100's that the side stand comes lose. I have to get the bike on the lift so I can take a better look at it. I know its moving much more than it should. I think that one of the bolts is stripped and or hollowed out.

Top heavy, wow I guess so. I know my KLR will even make you guess now and then if she will be tipping or not. This thing has a huge gas tank, so I am sure I will have a issue or two riding it the first few times. Will be interesting to say the least. With the price and being fuel injected, I could not pass it up.

 

She is alive!!! I took care of the plugs:
DSCN0163 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
They were Bosh and could be original.
The valves were out of spec on both intake and exhaust on both sides:
DSCN0164 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
Put her on the lift so I could take a look at that nasty side stand:
DSCN0170 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
There was the issues, one of the bolts has come out, so the side stand was able to move and or tilt the bike much more than is should. I took the other bolt out, cleaned both holes with carb cleaner and compressed air. Put some blue thread lock on both of them and torqued them down.
I don't have any original turn signals for this bike and the left one was missing. I had two LED running and turn lights so I slapped them on. Mounted the head light and it looks okay.
DSCN0172 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
Still waiting on the oil filler cover parts and I am missing the rail light cover. I am also having a issue with the right rear turn signal. I think I might have to swap out the one of took off the front to the rear. Will have to wait a day or so as other things are getting in the way.

 

Got the four parts in the mail for the oil cap. Interesting little setup for that. It went together well and is now stopping the oil from blowing out of the filler hole. Got all the paper work and check sent off in the mail to the good old WI DMV for the bonded title. Normally takes about 6 weeks to get that back.

Syncing the carbs will be on the plate today along with checking that rear ABS sensor, only light that stays on when she is running and all the "checks" have been done by the on board system. I have been thinking of removing the ABS system all together. It would save some weight and I have never ridden on a bike that had one. Not saying I could not ride with it, just thinking if I can't get it working correctly I don't want that light in my face all the time.

 

What a nice day! Yes above 40 in Wisconsin! Okay I am good now. Started the R1100GS today and it started much better. Sounds good but the ABS was or is still flashing. I have to do a little more reading to see what else I have to do. I don't know if the lights will go out without moving the the wheels? If the wheels don't move then how do the ABS sensors know what is going on?

Here are some pics of the dirty sensors back and then front.
DSCN0187 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
Here are the shims ..
DSCN0186 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
A very dirty sensor.
DSCN0188 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
Here is the front one, this was more or less welded in by junk. The shims on both the front and back had to be cleaned so they would go back on and not be thicker than they should be.
DSCN0190 by Tim Brown, on Flickr

 

There is a huge BMW section on ADV Rider.
I'm sure that dozens of people there will be glad to help you diagnose the ABS.
GSpot

 

k-moe,
thanks for the point, I more or less forgot about that site. I am a member for my KLR and yes they have way too much info, good info though. I do think I have the fix for it thanks. I also got all the lights to work, just corrosion on connections and lights.

Need to change out the tail light, the old one words but I am missing the lens for it. I have seen many universal tail lights out there that I think will fit. Need to more shopping.

 

Got the brakes bled, seat back on and rolled her off the lift. I think the front ABS sensor is working and as soon as I ride her, the back may re-set as well. Now to wait on the paper work...fun times. We still have 8" of snow in the woods. I ski now and then, plenty of snow out there to ski on for a while yet.

 

Took the BMW down the road for a short trip, the ABS system warning lights all went out, that is the good. Underwhelming is my first thoughts for the ride. I thought the BMW with a boxer type engine would have a little bit of pep to the throttle. I was wrong. I will sync the throttle bodies to make sure that it the are both pulling the same. As for now, thinking that I will not keep this bike, but that was just the first ride.

The speedo cable is broken as well as the neutrel light swx not sending power to the light. The first gear is also so high, I can see why people tip this bike on take off until they get used to the clutch and the high first gear.

 

Got the correct "O" ring for the oil filler cap. That is just a odd filler cap to have on a motorcycle. The "N" light was just disconnected under the seat, I like easy fixes. As for the throttle bodies, not too sure if I need to rebuild one or both of them. The right one shaft does seem to move when the she is running. I am guessing that is why I had a heck of a time getting the TB's in sync. I got them very close and the bike does seem to run much better. This bike is a cold blooded beast! Once it warms up it really seems to run like you would think a BMW should.

Will order the Speedo cable and keep that part of the bike apart until it is fixed.

 

Speedo cable came in Get that on and see if I can get her back down the road. Hope this next trip down the road is better then the first time.

 

Got to take the bike back out and I just can't get used to the boxer engine. It might be me, but this bike is so high geared that it is almost like it is gutless. Could be me just riding single thumpers or inline 4's all my life. Time to send the GS down the road once the paperwork comes back from the DMV. Ride was supper smooth and I can see why this would be like riding a couch all day, but I am not the couch riding type.

 

The temps in our area are good enough for riding! Took the GS out today for a longer ride as it has only gone up and down the road a few times for safety and to tell me it was a pig. Well it talked back to me today. Yes about seven miles into the ride I would guess a ring that must have been stuck let loose. I started to smile when I was hitting the throttle. This bike has some good pull, as it should. I was noticing that I had a little smoke in the shed when started the bike, I don't seem to see the smoke anymore. I can only guess that it was a stuck ring as I didn't do a compression check when it was running like a pig. So now, I have to see if the other project (79 XS1100) runs better and pulls better. I think a smaller bike is for me anyway, lower to the ground that is.

 

Had the bike out again, rides really well and that torque is wonderful. I noticed the headlight low beam was out, it is the bulb, replacing that today. I guess I will ride this bike for a season and see how well I like it and what kind of mpg it gets. Sure does fire up nice and is really comfortable on the road. Still thinking of taking it down to more of a scrambler type bike as that second front fender drive me nuts. I know it is there for the oil cooler, but if I relocated that lower with new lines I can take the beak off.

 

Took the bike for a longer ride today, it is a nice running bike and has lot of wrist smiles to offer. I will be keeping this bike. So not to play with the oil cooler and beak and think of a different wind screen maybe. The way that weird front end soaks up the road bumps is so nice. You look down when riding and see that teal-leaver working like crazy and you don't feel a thing. I am still getting used to the directional on each bar and the funny feeling of the foot brake. Just different stuff to get used to but all easy.

When you ride one of these bikes it is almost effortless, but a joy.

Now to work out the hazard lights and the heated hand grips. I know the grips are just done and dead. I will have to pull the grips and see what is up with them. I know the little wires in the heated part are done. I just need to see if the wires are still good and have power from the swx. Need to have the heated grips work for early and late season.

 

The old girl is getting a plate today so I can ride her this yr. If the weather holds out I would like to stretch her legs for a good 100 + mile trip.

 

She liked to get out and stretch her legs I think as with carb bikes the throttle seals are leaking. I can feel a little surge going on while the bike is cruising at speeds and down low. On the up throttle do not feel it and that would be a sign the seals are gone. I felt the right side and the linkage is moving a little and making a noise, that is a sure sign.

So need to order two of them $$ and get that changed out. The right fork also started to leak today so they need to rebuilt. I think both of the fixes seem to be manageable. The bike has good pick up and no longer is puffing smoke out the back on startup. Still think I am going to hack up the front and and move the oil cooler down low. Lighten this beast up and have some street fun with her.

 

Started to remove the front insurgent cluster and got the TB kit on order. Thinking of headlight and maybe a GPS speedo. There are many aftermarket speedo and indicator setup, need to start looking.

 

Pulled the trigger today and started to strip the bike down to a more normal motorcycle. Normal being one that will not have all the extra stuff needed for just a daily rider.
DSCN0298 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
DSCN0297 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
DSCN0295 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
Then as I am digging through things I find this? Need to look this up and see if I can just unplug it or needs to be rewired.
DSCN0296 by Tim Brown, on Flickr

Even though this bike has ABS on it, really thinking of taking it off just to lighten the bike up. I will have to do some more searching to see the amount of work involved. I have to relocated the oil cooler and have new lines made up. Many more things as well but at least I got a good jump on her today.

 

Have a email in for some parts from the UK, need to add brake swx's to the front and back brake as I think the ABS. I also need the wiring diagram to bypass the ABS and the FAG to allow the lights to work. Also ordered ACEWELL speedo and tach to replace the gauge cluster. Looking forward to getting that on and bike and see how she drives with all that extra junk gone.

 

I got lucky with the yr of my BMW, looks like I don't have to go too nuts re-wiring the bike because I removed the ABS system. I removed both front and rear ABS sensors, traced back the wires and removed most of the wiring. Cut the ends, heat shrink and then liquid taped the ends. Re-tapped the wiring harness where needed as the time and weather rotted the stock wiring covering.

Was really worried about the "jumpers" needed for the front and rear brake system. Did a lot of reading and then remembered I had some left over SS brake lines from a project yrs ago. I found them and was lucky to get them both to fix. So now the front and rear masters to straight to the caliper on the rear and the "T" on the front fender. Bled the brakes so that is one more thing done.

Cutting the rear upper frame and finding a good donor rear fender will take some time.

 

heated gloves
https://www.thewarmingstore.com/ger...html?msclkid=ed7748b17fdf10be51cf144c72e067a7

 

^ Very nice, I have their jacket already and love it. The BMW does have all the power in the world with the alternator to push what ever amps I want to use. I guess I will have to look into those gloves before that time of the year shows up again.

 

Just some update pics.
20190614_122328 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
20190614_122302 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
20190614_122253 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
Got the speedo in Hook the up first and then get to moving the oil cooler and making a mount. That should be easy, getting the new hoses make, that will be interesting.
I need to find a rear fender as well, something metal I think from another metric should work well.

 

I got a day to work on the BMW! So I thought I had better get a mounting point for the new gauge. Had to drill and tap with a small 6mmx100 to I hope secure it for life.
DSCN0310 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
Could not find a good wiring diagram even in the book for a 12 pin connector that goes to the gauge cluster. I had to use a battery and try to figure out what color for what light. Sense the gauge clock goes to constant power and the the running or normal operation is swx power we will see.
DSCN0311 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
This bike came from factory with heated hand grips, the ones that were on there were done (80K miles). I had some ATV ones spare so I hooked them up using the same wiring but a different swx.
DSCN0312 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
The kicker is, both of the bar grips need the 1" or 25 mm grips, so I will have to buy two sets to get two throttle size grips.

Need to work on the headlight and relocate the oil cooler and new lines.

 

Buying two sets of aftermarket grips will still cost less than buying one OEM set.

 

^ That is what I did for $12 a set...

 

Got the grips in yesterday, I thought it was my new phone. Yes lost my tracfone on the bike the other day, I should have known better to put it in my back pocket. Only out a little $$ as tracfone is cheep...or am I cheep...hmmm

Mounted the headlight into the bucket. I got both from Amazon and was not impressed with the bucket. I didn't feel that fit was good, the headlight would not seat into the bucket the way it should, the opening was a little shy of what it needed to be. I used a dremmel and opened it up little by little. The headlight now seats as it should and is in place. It is held in by compression pins, so I hope that it stays in place as I play on the bike. Seems to be really held in there well even though it is just compression pins.

Worded on the oil cooler relocation and see if I can make the new oil lines with AN fitting of take the measurements and have a shop do it. I guess the real idea is to mount the cooler and then put the bike on a trailer and take it to a shop.

 

Loaded the BMW on a trailer and took it to a welding and fab buddy of mine. He is looking into the location for the oil cooler. I also told him about the exhaust mod in the future, so that is fresh on his mind. We have great weather this weekend, a little warm and humid...keep your eyes out for all the bikes.

 

Man, oh man, do they ever put some weird parts on their bike!

 

Some of them even work pretty good.
It's a shame that they waited for Hossack's patents to run out before implementing their Telelever instead of paying the man for his work. It might have turned out to be even better than it is if he had been directly involved.

 

Yes the ride is wonderful! On the back roads in my area (lots of bumps do the sand minds, cranberry marshes and logging trucks) this bike is wonderful! I own a sports bike (Bandit 1250S) and they don't like the back roads here in my area of WI. The BMW is going to fill the gap. The need for power and smooth riding was needed in my stable. The KLR was okay, but just no throttle smiles. Nothing wrong with the KLR, I just don't ride dirt or heavy sand anymore. Can't wait to get this GS back on the road with all the weight cut.

 

Got the oil cooler relocated and mounted. I now need to find a shop or learn how to build my own oil lines. I am guess there really is not that much oil pressure on the lines so I could build them out of the original lines and some good fuel clamps.
BMW oil cooler by Tim Brown, on Flickr

 

Any shop that makes hydraulic lines can do the job. You could use clamps to cobble something together, and it would work fine. But who wants ugly lines on a classy European machine?

Are you sure that you want the oil cooler that close to a header?

 

I have seen many do the same thing, I guess I could move it up a little but then getting to the mounting bolts is a issue. I guess I could make new brackets and put it up to the mid area. I too question how close it is. Most of the time the bike will be moving so I hope it will not affect it. I will see what I can find in my small town. I don't know if the semi truck shop would help me out or just LOL at me.

 

I'd get lines made (where is there a truck shop that dosen't have at least one biker?), keep the originals, and monitor oil temperature at the cooler (infared thermometer should suffice). As long as it's cooling the oil to around 230-250º you'll be fine.

 

Thanks for the heads up on that, k-moe. I think I will see if I can flip the cooler in place and see how that looks today.

 

Working on the oil lines today, just wanted to show the space between the cooler and the exhaust. The lower cooler line looks like I can make it work, the upper, still playing with that.
DSCN0322 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
DSCN0321 by Tim Brown, on Flickr

 

Got some lines installed to the cooler. Started to wire up the directional's and tape up the wires. The main wiring harness coating had fallen off for what ever reason, so as I am re-wiring things I am taping it all back up. BMW loves tie wraps, so I too am using them to secure things out of the way once tapped up. Got the all the lights on and so far the new gauge is wired correctly. The Oil, Nuturel, clock and back lighting is all working. Looking forward to starting it to see if I have any oil leaks and if the Tach will work off the single wire. I am sure I need to program the gauge for the bike.

Need to get the speedo mounted as well, the magnet on the wheel and then measure and input that in the gauge as well.

 

All wires are connected, seems to be okay....lol. I gave her a crank and she fired so that is good, wanted to make sue the ABS system didn't have anything to do with the spark or fuel injection. It is a little warm in the shed, taking a break and hit her later on tonight to see if she runs. Take her down the road I hope. Need the speedo sensor hooked up yet and working...

 

Took her out without the speedo sensor in, I just had to go. Well in my haste, yes wait for it....I didn't have a plug in the ABS rear sensor hole. So I got a little hypo oil spray. I only went about 1/4 mile just to feel it anyway. Fixed that right way and when it cools a little will get to the speedo. Bike feels so much better. I think I pulled between 32 and 40 lbs off the top half of the bike.