Purchasing xj650

Hi from across the pond!

So at the weekend I'll be going go look at an 82 xj650 American import. Over here in the UK we have a government run website that let's us check when a car was last taxed to use on the road- in this case it is 2003. So I think it's safe to presume that the bike hasn't been run / moved and has been in storage ever since.

My question to you all is, is there anything I should really be looking out for that have tell tale signs of a hard life or whether it is likely to start?

To my knowledge the bike has no service history and doesn't start. The seller has informed me that it turns over but believes there is an issue with the engine cut out switch on the side stand and the clutch cut off. He also said there was a way to bypass this - wizardry!

My plan, if I purchase said bike, is to do the basics... change sparks, fresh oil, flush the old fuel out and new battery and see how far this gets me.

 

Picture of the bike:

 

The bike in the pic looks nice, good luck!

I can't say for certain that there is no side stand cutoff switch, but my '82 will definitely run sitting on the side or center stand. (EDIT-- I was just reading about the sidestand switches since you mentioned it. Apparently mine has been bypassed. DOH!) I just got mine a few weeks ago in running condition and have been going through everything. Coincidentally, the last time mine was licensed was '04, just one year off from the one you are looking at.

From my admittedly meager experience I would say that if you get the bike you will want to go through everything. The original brake hoses as I have read are designed to last 4 years! Many guys are using stainless replacement hoses. Also you'll want to check your rear brake shoes carefully as the linings have been known to delaminate and lock the rear tire unexpectedly in some cases.

 

this link tells about all the relays and switches
The Ultimate Relay, Switch, Sensor, and Diodes Guide

to bypass side stand switch you disconnect the relay.
clutch switch you just unplug it in the headlight bucket. with it removed the bike will only start in neutral unless you cut the wires from the switch and twist them together. then the bike will start in gear.

your plan is maybe a little flawed.
look at milage and do all of the maintaince items for the milage.
your tires are likely bad

you will want to inspect the rear brake shoes as the shoes tend to delaminate this will cause you to stop unexpectedly. your brake system will need a full rebuild.

read this The Information Overload Hour

this is how to clean carbs IN THE CHURCH OF CLEAN.

adjust/check the valves Bigfitz's AIRHEAD VALVE ADJUSTMENT with Pics - parts I & II

this link has many how to do it threads
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/forums/xj-diy-how-to-instructions.21/

 

Just as a point of interest what kind of money are they asking for bikes like that?

 

Read the first link in my signature.
As with any machine that has sat for an extended period of time, be prepared to go through everything.

 

Great find! That is a good looking bike for just sitting for yrs. I would take a good look inside the gas tank as well, just in case it is all rusted. If and when you get her, start a new thread so we can follow along on the maint.

 

Thank you to everyone for the comments, they're much appreciated!

Here's a little update - I purchased the bike, for 500 hard earned British pounds as a none runner. I got the bike home and straight away changed the spark plugs and oil - there was only around half a litre of oil in there!

The bike wouldn't start on the button but would turn over (not start) if I bypassed the solenoid

I checked all the kill switches and all were fine except for the kick stand one which had been chopped near the kickstand and as well as under the seat. The wires weren't connected and were just wrapped in electrical tape - I reconnected the wires at each end, bypassing the switch.

At this stage the bike still wouldn't turn over on the button.

My next check was to start poking around with a multimeter to see if power was going where it needed... this lead me to the the fuse box.

There was a poor connection on the ignition fuse holder so with a little sand paper, and a push of the start button, the bike fired up and stayed running.

The only issue I have is that it doesnt like being ran without choke so I believe my carbs are going to need stripping and cleaning.

Thanks again to all for their comments!

Thank you for this. I'll make sure to give everything a read!

He asked for £500, I've been looking online and cant see very many, or any at all for sale in the UK

I sure will! I work Mon-Fri and the weekends are spent with my other half so finding the time will be hard - she wasnt best pleased when I came home with the bike!!

 

I'm yet to service the breaks, front caliper needs stripping as I believe there is a blockage.

Back brake works but could do with being changed so a full overhaul is going to take place.

Fuel lines actually look ok, it had cracked at the opening where it meets the petcock so I cut this down for a secure hold - same with the breather pipe.

The seat is aftermarket, all lights work as they should and it only has 20,400 miles on the clock! Now whether this is accurate or not I have no idea!

Next steps are to lubricate the handle bar switches and service the brakes. I'll also look to clean the carbs out - retuning them looks to be a nightmare!

Once done I'll submit for an MOT to make it road legal!

 

you will want to replace the fuse box with inline fuses or a new box the clips like to break off

 

+1 Once they start to go on one fuse you know the others are right behind it. Might just as well plan on putting a new fuse box in there. There are many different types, just see if you can get a lower unit to clear the seat.
Congrads on the bike!!!

 

Do they require a kilometre speedo for MOT ? If they do, I have one if you need it.

 

Thank you both for this. The fuse box doesn't look like its in the best shape. I've found a local seller who has all the parts for a UK spec xj650 for sale minus the frame (this was corroded and was scrapped) and he only wants £100 for the job lot. So maybe this is a worthwhile investment?

I don't believe it does as we run in MPH in the UK, however upon inspection my bike has both MPH/KPH on the speedo.

 

Hopefully a better close up.

Had to jump from my car as no battery was supplied. I have one on order which should come tomorrow

 

Those pipes are interesting, I wonder stock or not? That is a good looking bike.

 

I don't think they're standard to be honest. I think they're called pea shooters

 

So I've been tinkering with the carbs recently and I thought someone would appreciate this video of the xj650 without one of its exhausts attached - it was a result of over revving



To date I've acid cleaned the fuel tank on the inside, stripped and re-synced the carbs, new rear wheel bearings and new drum shoes.

Next on my list is the front brake caliper - I found the last section of piping to be clogged so I'm awaiting a replacement - it seems hard to find here in the UK.

 

Can anyone direct me in the right direction for the torque sequencing for the valve cover on an xj650 maxim? (82)

Thanks

 

I dont think there is a sequence set forth by the manufacturer, just start with the middle ones and work your way out

 

^What he said^
Finger tight if you don't have the proper torque wrench for that low of a value. The bolt shoulder seats against the head, and if you overtighten them the head can crack.
The rubber doughnuts provide all of the clamping force.

 

Thanks both I have a pedal bike torque wrench rated 4-24nm so it should cover me

 

Nice bike.

 

Could I ask someone to check my valve spec numbers? Its 11.20pm here and I feel my tiredness may make for bad judgement ha ha.

I want to query the exhaust 2 shim. It measured at 0.203mm with the feeler gauge so would technically be just out of spec by 0.003mm. Am I correct that I need to change the shim to get it back into spec or is 0.003mm minimal?

On top of this, if I do end up replacing exhaust 2 with the 280 shim, can I use the 280 from exhaust 1 and put the 275 from exhaust 2 into exhaust 1?

 

exhaust 1 correct 2 spec 3 spec 4 correct

intake 1 correct 2 correct 3 correct 4 correct
I would suggest getting metric feeler gauges as the conversion is not quite accurate

 

The only bad news is that you can't swap any of the shims around.
Maybe that will work out next time.

 

note overlapping specs when inches is used 0.006= 0.15mm and 0.16 mm

 

This is the feeler gauge I have

 

Sorry if I'm overlooking something but are my measurements not in metric?

 

Tighten till they make contact then just a little snug. Thin bolts + aluminum + rubber.. they don't need to be tight at all. If they are a bit loose just snug em a bit more.

Your measurements are also in inches. Though that .0025 seems WAYYYYYYYY off.

 

Your gauges are imperial, with metric equivalents stamped. They are fine, but actually a tad less convenient than using proper metric feelers.
The tendency when using imperial/SAE is to read the metric stamp as-is, which actually provides too fine a resolution. You only need to read to the nearest 0.01 mm in order to use the chart and set clearances.

 

yes they are in metric but based on mfg doing math to convert . best way is a feeler for each spec 4 in total base it on go no go only becomes a problem if gaps are way tight or way loose.

if you look at the Yamaha spec I posted you see that the inch scale = 2 metric standards
0.006= 0.15mm and 0.16 mm
so you could end up wirt 0.16mm on intake or .015 mm on exhaust making a tight shim a passing shim on exhaust or a loose shim pass on intake.

it is just how my brain works worry worry about nothing i see 3 shims at that measurment . and is your decmil point in the correct place on inch measurments?

.006=.1524mm where 0.06=1.524mm
you can see how this makes exhaust shims tight and will need to be changed next time around or changed now if you went by mm

not a big issue in the end

 

He has the metric equivalent listed too.
0.0025" is only one shim tight. Wayyy off would be 0.000"


@XJ550H good catch on the decimal. That makes for a huge difference, and it would be really odd to have one set of valves that far off from the others.
I'm betting it's just a transcription error.

 

Thanks both, it was getting late when I took the measurement, however I do remember checking intake 1 twice as I thought it couldn't be correct.

I'll check all clearances again after work today before ordering new shims.

 

Thanks firebane - I don't suppose you know the torque value? I have a wrench that starts at 2nm

 

IIRC 7.2 ft lbs. If I'm wrong it's not far off from that.

 

Thanks k-moe

I don't think these shims have ever been tended to. There were no scratch marks on the crank bolt from where the 19mm spanner cranks.

 

Rechecked the valve clearances, good job I did too!

Exhaust 2 is definitely in spec and intake 1 measurement was way off.

On a side note, I don't suppose anyone knows the official name for the yoke cover thing that says 'Yamaha'? I've just realised mines missing!

 

For the steering assembly.
emblem


ASSEMBLIES WHERE 4H7-23395-00-00 IS USED

• 1980 XJ650 (XJ650G) - Steering
• 1981 XJ650 (XJ650H) - Steering
• 1982 XJ650J - Steering
• 1983 XJ650K - Steering
• 1983 XJ750K - Steering

 

I dont know what I'd do without you k-moe!

Sorry for another question but I'm just buying all the final bits I need to get the xj road worthy. The carbs I'll be ultrasonic cleaning and replacing fuel o rings and butterfly seals but now that I've sorted/sorting the shims, once done I'll need to sync the carbs.

I'm thinking of either colortune or vacuum gauge syncing but unsure which is more accurate/better to do.

I've found a set of gauges relatively cheap on ebay.

Let me know your thoughts...

 

Cheap vacuum gauges are just that. You might get a set that's consistent across all of the gauges (they can be calibrated to each other at baseline, but may not all read the same throughout the range). If you go that route and find that they do not agree with each other you can build a manifold from tubing and just use one gauge, or swap that gauge between vacuum ports.

I use a set of stick gauges which use a liquid substitute for mercury. Other members like the Morgan Carbtune which uses a set of calibrated stainless steel rods.
The advantage there is that the readings are only dependent on the laws of physics, and not a mechanical assembly. They do cost more, but I think they are worth it.

 

color tune is for adjusting pilot circuits mixture screw not syncing .
syncing is adjusting the carbs to motor

 

I'll look into it, I'm new to the whole syncing thing.

As above, I'm new to the syncing side of things. I'll look into what k moe suggested and see where I get!

This evening, after remeasuring and ordering my shims I replaced all the 'doughnuts' on the valve cover bolts - it was made easier with the brass cone from Chacal

 

I'm a cone head too. surprising difference between the new and old donuts isn't there?

 

A massive difference. I don't think the valve cover has been removed since it left the factory...

 

I think the valves get ignored on most bikes. Then they get bought by members of this site.

 

That is no kidding, I can't think of one bike that I have worked on that they were in spec. This last XS was close, I think the PO swapped #3 & 4 EX shims, that is how close it was.

 

Half of mine were out by at least one shim size.
Most of the ones I've worked on were at least that far out.
One Virago I worked on was nearly at 0 clearance on all 4 valves. Stupid thing to do since they are so easy to adjust (screw and locknut).

 

Mine were out too made a great difference once l fitted the correct shims. Glad the shims are on top of the buckets on the XJ.

 

I hope it makes a big difference with the tuning. One thing I cant get my head around is how the clearance would affect the carbs i.e. not being able to tune correctly and getting a lean or rich mixture

 

Valve clearances affect engine breathing. If clearances are too large valves open later. Conversely too narrow clearances valves open earlier. You want them opening properly by the clearances being correct. Some of the guys can explain in more detail as l am not an expert on carburetors.