What did you do to your Yamaha today?

I installed some new valve shims and upon remeasuring found that they were still out of spec! so important to always double check your work!!! I was also curious how long to leave my broken down carbs in a chem dip for? I saw that it can mess with aluminum if left in for too long.

 

An hour or so is all I do for general varnish.

 

I had to install a new transmission output shaft oil seal (ordered from Len, of course) a couple weeks ago. The old one wouldn't stay pressed in, and would pop out during my morning ride to work, leaving an embarrassing oil puddle underneath. I don't want to be mistaken for a Harley, ya know!

Besides assuming the old seal was just bad, I decided to also check my engine breather hose, thinking if the case was building up pressure it might tend to pop the seal out.
Because I don't have the stock air box, the breather hose is routed up along the seat and frame to a chrome breather filter bolted to the frame by the right rear turn signal. (That keeps the oil mist/vapor out in the open air, and not dirtying up the engine bay within the frame).

Although I've had the breather filter there for probably ten years with no issues, I checked the air flow through the hose and it was somewhat pinched. So I re-routed it slightly, and now have free flow through the hose. If the new seal pops out again, I guess I have other issues!

 

you could use a little yamabond to seal it in there. the stuff used when you split the cases

 

Good point. I did try using a different brand gasket sealant on the old seal when I tried just re-seating it, but that obviously didn't hold. (For the new seal, I just cleaned the bore and installed it dry.)
I should pick up some Yamabond -- which would be good to have on hand anyway -- but I've not yet had a need to split the cases.

 

Permatex ultra grey works as well and might be cheaper from the auto parts store. That's what most car engines use for case metal-metal assembly sealant. Ultra black is similar but has more silicone in it for a more rubbery consistency after cure, used typically on oil pans alone or with fiber gaskets. All sealants should be spread thinly, finger tight and let it sit for 30-45 mins before you torque down.

 

Took the FZR out on an errand, plus a few miles... Still have hanging idle. Carb boots are solid, so probably sync issue... unless throttle shaft seals. Could find them online, maybe I'll have to look harder.

 

Spray some carb spray between the carbs and see if the revs change when it hangs.

 

Did a fork rebuild over the last couple days on my Maxim-X; today is front brake caliper/MC rebuild. Does anyone have a tip for getting the (plastic?) cover off the back of the caliper without damaging it?
Looks like there's a slot for a screwdriver but so far I'm gouging the slot more that removing the cover. Great thread here https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/1985-86-xj700-caliper-rebuild.118121/ but it doesn't cover that.

EDIT: Ah, push the sides in. It's pretty clear once you see it.

 

Picked up my first bike, a 1982 XJ550 on sunday, yesterday washed her, changed the oil, charged the battery, cleaned and gapped the plugs, and went over some of the wiring.
Got it to run and the idle is surprisingly smooth, the poor things tank is rusted to hell so I doubted it would be running. ( used a clean fuel supply of course).

At first I was expecting to break down and rebuild all 4 carbs but seeing how nicely it runs I'm reconsidering all that work... anyone know how good those carb cleaning fuel additives are?

Today I'm gonna clean out my tank with phosphoric acid method, and order brake pads / brake lines. Chain needs tensioning and she should be more or less good to go.

 

Additives won't open clogged jets. Lean running cylinders will eventually cause cam journal galling from heat build-up in the head and camshafts. I had to swap heads on my 550 due to #1 being scorched. A cool running tune is critical on an airhead.

 

Yeah I guess I’m being lazy. Eventually want to rebuild the carbs just intimidated as I’ve never done such a thing. Got any rebuild kits you’d recommend?

 

photo and bag every part do 1 carb at a time

 

Been hectic for past few weeks , slowly working on my beetle rebuilding and repairing damage , and other issues at home .....but today I went for a 100 mile ride felt great to ride , it will be fall soon and riding season in the Chicago area will end and WINTER will be here and hang around for EVER ( it sure seems) . I rode up into Michigan I really enjoyed the ride ,cleared my head and forgot all my problems soon the leaves will be a changing and the vibrant colors of fall and lots of festivals in the area can't wait. Cheers

 

I moved some boxes out of the way and put the battery tender on my brand new, but now dead, battery. I had done some reading and I think it was the eBay rectifier I had switched with the OEM one either was faulty or the loose connector was causing a parasitic electrical drain (I am theorizing). I still need to test the eBay rectifier, but with the old one back on, everything eventually came up to a charge... so naturally I had to try to fire it up... then I drove it!! I haven’t had the bike move on it’s own power since January. It was a big moment for me, after about $3000 in parts (by choice, not necessity) for wanting a safe bike. Anyways, here it is. I plan to do a gallery type posting after I do some polishing and take some nice pictures.

It still needs to be tuned, etc, but I have replaced or serviced everything from bearings, relays, fuse boxes, gas tanks, petcocks, tires, hoses, clamps, carb parts, valve adjustments, gauges, brakes, clutch plates, brushes, cables, handlebars, accessories, lights, controls headlight, all wiring etc etc etc after buying the bike last July. This forum and YouTube all the way. Thank you everyone for this rich library of information. Don’t give up hope!

 

Took the rear wheel off to get a new tyre put on and whilst I was there decided to remove the swing arm to clean off all the built up crud and check it's condition. Happy to say the swing arm is solid, so clean it up a bit more before a re paint !

 

5th application of coconut oil on the 1982 revitalized seat. It's feeling like new again. I think that cold pressed(virgin) coconut oil actually works better than the refined. I'm also using it on the petrified 1994 Saab seat covers since they are real leather. It appears to work well as a moisturizer for leather and also a plasticizer for vinyl coated fabric.

 

Ordered some boots that go between the carbs and the engine, not looking forward to replacing them but I also want to ride... So here we go (I have no idea what i'm doing so this should be fun)

 

Be careful removing the allen cap screws ,they have a tendency of snapping off.

 

Oh no. That is def not something I want to do. Any suggestions? lots of penetrating oil?

 

Whatever tool you use (i suggest a Allen wrench) to remove the screws should be held straight into the Allen head. Any angles or side to side motion will increase the chance of breaking one. Hope this helps.

Gary H.

 

Actually I did this over the weekend...
Dusted it off, did a quick carb cleanup, charged the battery, dumped the oil and took it for a spin around the neighborhood. Felt good.

Gary H.

 

Make it break loose with a slight turn to tighten. Don't turn any tighter than you have to in order to make the head move. This causes the threads to twist and stretch the screw which should break up any corrosion. Trying to loosen a seized screw or bolt forces all of the tension on the head as the head raises up. Once you crack the threads loose some, work it back and forth to grind up the corrosion.

 

Today I swapped out the one turn signal that was black for the correct chrome one. Scored it off Ebay for $10.

 

black light have the different lens? kind of wraps on 1 side?

 

Yes. Same as my seca 750 just chrome.

 

In fact lens are the same. I put LED on the 750 and the original lens from it were in perfect same. I swapped them to the 900.

 

That's pretty!

 

Thank you!!

 

Good tip, I'm a little worried and I can't find a simple guide in the Haynes manual. Thanks!

 

Thank you! Shes not perfect but she runs and rides beautiful. Had to replace a front tire and rebuild all three calipers but for $1000 I can't complain.

 

So today ,I was reading news at lunch and seen an article that caught my attention. Kbid in Minnesota a guy is selling off 500 motorcycles...so I looked it over some bikes were complete with titles and some just parts bikes with no titles. I've never bid on an auction like this but a 1.00$ bid equals 001cent to 75$ and goes up a 100$ bid can equal up to 50000$ as I understand it...needless to say I don't think I will bid on anything. But maybe someone else might be interested there were several "Maxum" (Maxim) on the there 650,750, a few 550 . Cheers

 

Just looked into this, check out the "additional fees" section. Each bike will come with at least $130 in taxes and handling fees right off the time...if I am reading the correctly.
https://www.k-bid.com/auction/29939

 

I'm thinking this not such a good "deal" it is a shame a couple looked like they would be a good bike .

 

Tonight I opened up my bad starter to find it full of oil...

 

Found cyl 2 running lean only under load. Checked diaphragm Sunday, HIGHLY suspect RTV 'fix' on top ring. Ordered JBM diaphragms Monday, came yesterday, threw them in; ~50 minutes work for all four.

Might be too familiar with removing/reinstalling these carbs.... Engine definitely feels better when accelerating. I have 140+ miles each way of travel scheduled this afternoon so we shall see!

 

not supposed to be oil in there. there is an old thread with same problem. odd how that can happen considering all the seals

 

Would you happen to have a guide for carb removal? This Sunday I'll be attempting to replace the carb to engine boots because the ones on there now are dry rotted.

TYIA!

(If I missed this guide somewhere, I did try searching)

 

If you still have the stock airbox(prefered) lossen clamps on the back of the carbs. Lift tank or remove there is a 10mm bolt at the Y of the frame remove this . Remove top of the airbox 3 screws ,remove air filter . Spray some silicone on the boots, push them into the airbox start on outboard sides. Lossen the clamps at the front on the intake boots, remove throttle cable and the choke cable. Use a hammer handle pry against carb top be gentle wiggle carbs till they come out of boots. That is simple removal, reinstall put some silicone grease ( Ace hardware in plumbing asle very handy stuff) inside lip of boots. Push carbs as even as possible into boots , if only one side goes in tighten down clamps and try the opposite side. Once carbs are back in boots , reach into airbox if your hands are small enough push airbox boots do the first 2 in middle. ( recommend a booger hook , hook tool ) use lots of spray silicone ) once you have the two center boots on tighten clamps. Then move to the outer boots . Once this is back together reinstall the 10mm bolt , put air filter back in and put top back on. Reinstall throttle cable, and choke cable . Please note if you are rebuilding carbs and you want to test , you can run without airbox hooked back up in case you have to remove carbs to reset float level etc. This might sound complicated , I can have carbs off in 20 min ( taking my time) and back on in about 30 min . Cheers hope this help.

 

remove fuel line from fuel tank then choke cable from carbs
you start by unbolting air box so it will move back some. then grind a screwdriver round like a tire spoon.
get a hair drier.
heat up the airbox to carb boot to soften it and work the edge of the boot into the air box with spoon so it will slide back into box.
next loosen clamps on manifold boots and use a wooden hammer handle to pry carbs back out of boots. they will roll out
push bank out right side disconnect the throttle cable.

 

You guys are gooood.

 

Came home late as train was delayed due to police action (got to love Chicago) ate dinner , hopped on bike had not rode for a few days . Felt so good to ride , bike is running so good. To bad it is going to rain next few days .

 

XJ550H, if I remember right from my starter-rebuild post, there is really only one press-in shaft seal on the operating end of the starter. The stock/OEM bearing in the starter is not a sealed-type bearing. However, I did give Len at XJ4Ever the part number I used for a sealed-type replacement bearing, and I believe he stocks it now. So if Tim O replaces the standard lip-type shaft seal AND the standard bearing with the sealed-type bearing, there will essentially be three seals on the motor end of the starter, making it practically impossible to get oil inside (unless the starter case is cracked).

 

I just installed the 5G2-10, it's working fine, but I found two wires below the engine near to the oil filter cap, and another one like a ground wire but it is blue, any idea of what are those wires for? I just made a new harness, and I did not plug some of the wires, but I think one of those is for the oil temperature right?

 

Did an oil change and looked into why the side stand safety switch wasn't functioning. Found out that the switch is just fine but the side stand is not making contact with the switch when its down. Its not in alignment with the plunger. I don't see any way to adjust either the switch or the side stand.

 

your bracket is upside down

 

if it is sky blue it is your neutral switch wire 1 end plugs into harness other end hooks to neutral switch.
no oil temp just level . photos of wires would help

 

Well that was simple. Thanks!

 

Moved her into the big shed for maybe winter storage...

 

TY for your hel bro. Where do I have to connect those 2 wires? The problem is that my harness is not the original one, I made a new one because the bike was totally distroyed and the previos owner gave it to me