Add a generic oil cooler?

Just wondering if anyone has mounted a generic oil cooler, like this one? https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Uni...targid=pla-644006353806&psc=1#customerReviews

It looks like it might work, but might be a bit too wide, and, also, the lines would need to be shortened.

 

I am sure you can make it work. Just keep it far enough away from the headers and make sure you have side to side clearance. Some auto parts stores in the USA make hoses for hydraulic and oil lines. When I did my BMW oil cooler relocation I looked into what to use and how to get the right length lines. Good luck.

 

Yeah, I can get custom hoses made or modified at the local Whisler Bearing shop... but, if there's a generic oil cooler that's a better direct fit, that would be nice.

 

By the way, anyone know whether the MAC 4-1 headers clear the stock oil filter cover when there's a stock oil cooler on the bike?

 

it is not an issue of clearing the filter cover . it is an issue of being able to pull cover through the headers to change the filter.
my 550 requires me to rotate the filter cover to change the filter as it will not pass through the pipes to remove the filter element.

 

No, it is a question of clearing them, because the oil cooler base makes the filter cover stick out 3/4" or so further.

 

a spin-on adapter fits with mac 4/1. If there was a oil cooler adapter that took a spin-on filter, that would be the ticket.

 

yes it does.

 

@Simmy can you get the housing out from between the pipes when you do a filter change?

 

Thanks. I'll may give this amazon setup a go, then. It's much bigger than the OE cooler, but still looks like it would be a comfortable fit.

 

asking because I just don't know . Can you over cool your oil?

 

For small aircraft (also air-cooled), you're supposed to get the oil over 100C, to ensure that any water is boiled out of it. I suppose that too much of an oil cooler could keep the oil from getting that hot in the Winter. In the Summer, though, I think my bike could use some cooling. Still checking into a few other options. There are plenty of generic motorcycle oil coolers on eBay, but no kits that would fit our bikes (as far as the filter adapter).

 

that I do not know, I tore this bike down for parts only so never did an oil change

 

I have a cooler, and have ridden in winter. Getting the oil hot enough is not a problem at all.
Your best bet (in terms of time and expense) is to search on Ebay Germany for a used stock cooler and adapter plate. Chacal sells refurbished (and tested) factory oil coolers and adapter plates, but they will cost you a bit (and that's fair given the labor he has into them).

 

I found a oil cooler from a Hoysoung GT650.

 

how about a photo from the front.

 

Parts so far... Need to see about lines and a filter.

 

I'm thinking the radiator itself is a bit too small - though it's kind of cute. Ordered a larger one that should be here tomorrow, and will see how that looks.

Edit: looking at Simmy's shot above, the first radiator I got is pretty close to the size of the stock one. Still... will see how the second one looks in place. A bit bigger is probably better here. Or, alternatively, the second one is coming from Amazon and could be returned. First is 50ml capacity. Second is 125ml. I'm not sure whether that matters that much, though. I would think surface area is the more important consideration.

As to the diverter - it looks like it should work well once I fab a spacer plate to go between it and the crankcase. It needs about 1/2" of space to make the connectors accessible for the oil lines; and the diameter of the stock mount/cover is about 3 7/8", while the diverter mounting flange is more like 2 1/2". I've ordered a 4" x 1/2" aluminum disc that I plan to machine into a spacer plate.

The M20 "dental tubes" I got look perfect to connect the nut/bolt of the diverter into the stock port.

Will try to get more done this weekend... but I think an economical add-on cooler with conversion to spin-on filter is looking pretty doable.

 

Okay, so here are the two oil cooler candidates. The smaller one seems to be just about the size of the original oil cooler shown on the cover of the Haynes manual. The bigger one will fit, but I wonder if it's overdoing it. Thoughts?

Smaller is 6 and 1/2 inch by 2 and 1/2 inch for the radiator body itself.

Bigger is 9 and 1/2 by 4 and 1/2 in and about twice as thick.

 

? how much oil pressure would you expect there to be one of these?

 

I don't know... maybe 40PSI. Certainly a lot less than I would expect to be of any concern for either of these radiators... though the small one looks like it could handle a huge amount of pressure.

 

? would you prime it somehow?

 

I don't think it needs to be primed, it will drain each time anyway as here is no check valve in the system. Just enough oil runs though there to help it cool. I guess there is no issues with the oil site window as well. So looks, performance, stop and go traffic, what ever the need it should work just fine.

 

Went to the local hydraulic shop, where I've had some power steering hoses and such repaired before. They wanted too much (IMO) for the oil lines. So I ordered some fittings and hose from Amazon, and we'll see how that goes. Should be here tomorrow or Saturday, so I'll try to get this part of the project done over the weekend.

 

If you have a LP station by you Allies or something of the same, they will make them for you as well.

 

Oh, Whisler would make them, but they wanted about $85 a piece for 15" hoses. The whole kit from Amazon with a bunch of connectors and 12 feet of hose was $35.

 

Here's what the parts look like so far, an including the adapter ring I made to fit the diverter to the crankcase.

 

Almost there... I hope. Got the M12x1.25 to AN6 adapters for the radiator, and the line kit. Also picked up a Subaru oil filter, for their 2.5L engines, that looks like a great fit.

However, I'm blocked because the AN10 fittings of the diverter, to the AN10-AN6 adapters, will not quite fit where the fins come off the front edge of the crankcase above where the stock filter cover goes.

I am going to try replacing the AN10 connectors of the diverter with AN6 ones. The hose kit is all AN6 anyway. I think those will clear. Local parts store should have the fittings tomorrow.

 

Ordered the wrong fittings from the parts store. I thought they were 5/8 x 18, but they're actually M16 x 1.5. Parts store guy was very helpful, but this is not a part they can easily get. Ordered a couple from eBay... should have them mid-week or so.

 

Latest progress

 

I think it's done. Need to add some oil and crank a bit to see about leaks.

 

Real test will be with it running, but, cranking a bit to move the new oil around I'm not seeing any leaks.

 

Go for it it won't leak.

 

Still a lot of other work to do before it's running again. Need to finish the spacer plate for the cam position sensor, and add the sensor and two more injector channels to the wiring harness, and make new intake manifold gaskets, and repaint the injectors, and maybe open up the intake ports a bit, and reinstall the exhaust and intake manifolds... Goal is to have it running again by not too far into Spring.