1986 Fazer FZX700 project

Let the journey begin...

Hello everyone!

I got myself a birthday present in the shape of 1986 FZX700, it's in a rough shape but even in its rough shape you can see the beauty of this machine.

This project will probably occupy me for a long time and I will be happy to share my progress with you all and I will very much appreciate and be thankful for all your advise, tips, wisdom, experienced input and anything else that will help me make this journey being a fun one.

I am not sure when I will start working on it but you can start bombarding me with your general input on how to approach this kind of restore project.

Thank you all, stay safe and healthy and have a great day!

 

Good afternoon all!

First impression from going briefly about and around is that someone with no knowledge and no mechanical capabilities tried to work on this motorcycle.

The result is stripped screws, on the master cylinder of both the brake and the clutch, some stripped allen screws. I will take care of these stripped screws but it's frustrating to see these screws and it also make me think that this motorcycle wasn't taken care off in the best way.

I have also found some cracked plastic parts that were tighten too hard, some missing parts i.e. washers, screws, rubber guards and probably some other stuff I missed.

I started looking for parts and I figured it won't be easy, As seen in the picture I am missing the front fender and I couldn't find not even one front fender for sale. I guess this will be a long journey but...I don't really mind ;-)

Stay safe, healthy and have a great day!

 

Nice looking bike, someone had one in my area (not close enough) for sale. Your bike looks really nice and I hope you are able to get her on the road soon.

 

Seems to be the case on most of these older bikes. There's another thread on here to share what you find:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/previous-owner-masterpieces.57929/

As for parts, you may find some other Yamaha model parts interchange, like the Radian and FZ750.
But like the Maxim X, so many are unique, and good to see that bike is nearly complete.

Did you see my signature below?

Tony

 

Thanks Tony!

Your Maxim project looks like a masterpiece and I wish myself to have my Fazer project half as nice as your Maxim project.

Thank you for the support, encouragement and tips. I will try to find original Fazer 700 parts and if I won't be able to find anything I will look into interchangeable parts but I hope I will be able to find original parts.

I live in Brooklyn, NY and I work on the motorcycle in my front yard, which is an outside very small space with two other bikes parked there, so I am a little bit limited with the scope of the project I can run. I wish I could strip this bike to the bones and rebuilt it back to it's original glory but I am afraid I can't with my current working space.

I haven't done any work on the motorcycle yet, except for briefly browsing it and finding a devastating neglect and messed up/broken parts. I hope to start with disassembling parts sometime this weekend and hope for the best with my findings.

Thank you again for your, very much appreciated, support.

Stay safe, healthy and have a great day!

Avi

 

Now that you're committed to reviving this one you should be looking into a couple of things.

A repair manual. I found a Haynes and a CD of the Factory one on Ebay
JIS Screwdriver set. Our resident Len @ xj4ever.com has those, and potentially some other items you'll need.

Also, when you take things apart, be very careful and take your time. Most stuff can be repaired, but the less that is broken or damaged, the better.

Seems like these bikes were more popular in Europe, and I've had some luck finding stuff needed "across the pond".
This is a cool site: http://www.fzx750.co.uk/Contents.html

Tony

 

Thank you very much Tony @xHondaHack,

I do have tools that I work with on my other motorcycles but I am embarrassed to say I do not own a JIS set, which is probably what caused all the screws grinding by the previous owner, so I think it's time I stop embarrassing myself and get a set ;-)

I am also aware of the must have bible for every motorcycle, i.e. service/repair manual, which I will get as well.

I hope the weather will be nice and I will be able to start the disassemble process so I can see what lies beneath.

Thanks again for the guidance, the JIS you mentioned did make me feel embarrassed and this is exactly what I need, a guiding figure ;-)

Be safe, stay healthy and have a great weekend!

Avi

 

And the journey begins...

I started disassembling the Fazer and I already have a few questions that I hope to get some help with.

At the attached pictures you can see that I have more than a few screwed screws that I am not sure how to unscrew.

My main concern are the front brake and the clutch cylinder reservoir screws, the clutch has one jammed screw, which is completely rounded, and the brake reservoir has a broken screw. I do have a screw extractor for these kind of situations but I am not sure that this is the best course to take here.

Next I will do my best to deal with the carburetor, which from the air intake looks pretty messy. It's the first time for me dealing with an inline four so I hope it won't be an issue.

It's not a high priority yet but I was looking for a front fender, which I am missing and I couldn't find one anywhere. Any suggestions where I might find one?

I will post some more questions/help request as I run into issues I am not sure about and any help will be much appreciated.

Thank you all, stay safe and healthy!

 

PB Blaster is my best friend when it comes to these old bikes. Spray and let it soak for a wile, not just 30 mins...a while. I would try thisDSCN0047 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
method first. If that does not work, get a small straight blade and hammer, hit the screw to get a good grove started on it, then try to force the it to unscrew that screw. Once it get high enough off the cover you should be able to get pliers or vic grip on it.

The good news is if that does not work, you can drill it out and remove the cover. There will be a little part of the screws sticking out to grab a hold of.

 

Thanks @Timbox for the tip and guidance.

PB Blaster ordered and I thank you again because when reading about it I figured my WD40 go to spray isn't really a rust eliminator/reliever but more of a clean-lube thing. You never stop learning.

On another topic, what are people using for carb cleaning? Is a spray cleaning shortcut worth trying or should I disassemble and clean it thoroughly?

And one last question for this post, I found a front wheel fender, at a shop in the Netherlands, which will make it $130 shipped. Should I pull the trigger on this or should I keep on looking?

Stay safe, healthy and have a great day!

 

Shortcuts to carb cleaning should never be taken. Check this: Church of clean

 

@Huntchuks This is a full college semester study material here...

I will take the carbs off and do my best to be on par with the standard set by Church of clean. It mentioned that valve adjustment is needed, which I never did before but I hope to figure it out.

Thanks, be safe and stay healthy!

 

Glad you are taking the time to do the ready. Most just jump in blindly and then brake something or mess it up. Use the resources this forum has, lean from our/my mistakes and be successful the first time working on a component of the restoration.

As stated above, really take the time with those carbs, they mean so much to a good running motorcycle. If you take the time needed and do it right, it will remove one of the biggest restoration obstacles you will have....I hope. Replacing the "O" rings on the fuel tubes and throttle bodies should be done sense you will have each carb pulled apart and broken down.

Been looking for one of these bikes in my area as a project, they all seem to be running and asking a premium price for them too. Keep on plugging away.

 

@Timbox I am not sure I have the knowledge for the long version of the restoration but I will take my time and hopefully I will be wiser and more experienced when this is done.

What type of solvent should I use for the carb cleaning? I read about all these ultrasonic cleaners but I do n't have the room nor the budget for one so I will go the old fashion way with soaking them for a few hours.

I am looking today into the brakes, front and rear, which are a little sized on both ends and I was wondering if you have a general tip of how to approach this. I was thinking of just taking them apart and maybe be able to clean the calipers instead of a full rebuilt. What's your opinion?

Thank you as always and I'm sure that I will be back with plenty more questions.

Be safe and stay healthy!

 

They're out!

I wonder what's better getting a motorcycle that was sitting for decades but no one messed with it or getting a motorcycle that was only sitting for a couple of yeas but was messed up by someone that shouldn't get close to any mechanical machine nor hold any tool in their hand, unless they do some learning and homework before attempting to fix anything.

I guess I got the later. The deeper I dig the more broken stuff I find that is due to the mentioned above.

This time it was stripped screws on the carburetor clamps that made a simple task becoming a hassle. Anyway it's out and I hope to start working on it soon.

Another find was the state of the spark plugs and the engine bock by the spark plugs (see picture) I will wait for my order of PB Blaster to spray around the plugs so they'll come out easier.

Stay safe and healthy!

 

I hope you are using compressed air on those plug holes before you are unscrewing them? Just blow that junk so it will not drop into the cylinder. I only ask as that one pic of the rusty wet plug.

Those carbs look good if they just came off the bike. Will be interesting to see what the fuel bowls look like, might tell you a lot about the health of those carbs. Making sure you don't miss this hole in the bottom of the fuel bowls.
carbs_floatbowl_choke by Tim Brown, on Flickr
That little hole needs to be very clean, needs to be hit with a thin wire. I use a bread tie that I strip the insulation off, B12 chem tool and compressed air. All 4 of the bowls need to have this hole cleaned well. This will really help when you to start the bike.

 

Thank you very much @Timbox

I also think that the carbs look good, at least on the outside, in comparison to the rest of the bike.

I took off one plug and when I realized what a mess there is down there I used compressed air all over the bike including the spark plugs area.

But this first one came out with no cleaning and I am not sure what got into that cylinder. Should I be worried?

I will try to play with the carbs today and I will look into the enriching tube hole.

As always, thank you for the support and guidance!

Be safe and stay healthy!

 

I would just used some compress air in that one cylinder plug hole to blow out anything that might have fallen in there, just to be safe. Besides that I think you are good to go and well on your way.

 

I’d try a little vacuum hose first.

Tim, in your picture, that is the Enricher WELL. The tube extends from the body into the well.

 

Good evening all!

I got my JIS set and I'm back at it with a lot of questions.

I started working on the carbs and it looks much worse than I thought it will be, which is not an encouraging thing but I hope I will be able to make it to the other side...

On the attached pictures you can see that I have a broken part, which I found on the service manual, I think it's between part #9 and part #10, but I can't figure the name of the part. Also where can I order this part?

Should I get a carb rebuilt kit for the gaskets and whatever else comes with it or can I work it our with the current parts?



This carb is really filthy what's my best approach for cleaning it? I saw a Gunk parts cleaner with a basket that I thought of using or is there a better option?

The fuel tank is also not in an encouraging shape so I will work on cleaning it. I have a broken part there as well, I think it's the low fuel sensor.



I can see that this will be a very long journey...

Thank you, be safe and stay healthy!

 

I believe you’re looking at part of the piece that threads into part #8. If that’s the case, I think the emulsion tube should be able to be pushed out through the slide bore and then you can either try to extract the broken threaded piece, or just replace both it and the tube. Unless I’m looking at it wrong.......

been awhile since I’ve been in carbs like those......

 

Correct on Hogfiddles in it being #8 in your exploded diagram. Here's a different view from the factory manual in the 4th picture down: Plug 1 / Washer 2, and the main nozzle 3

 

Also, with the low fuel light sender, It'll need a replacement and are available new:
Part # 1UF-85752-03-00
Babbits is good for a lot of what's still available:
https://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/l/yam/500429d0f8700209bc7892d0/1986-fazer-fzx700s-parts

Hopefully the fuel pump is good because they're like hens teeth.

The tank looks like it needs a serious cleaning.
I've had great success with Evaporust and Rustoleum Rust Dissolver.

Also, not sure if you know this, but you have a California spec model having the extra fuel breather "roll over valve" and I'm sure you have the vapor canister on the frame that is not pictured as well.

I like your organized layout of the carbs, but make sure you keep the main jets you took out of each carb body with their respective carbs. They are staggered sizes. 1 and 4 are the same, and 2 and 3 will be a different size if they've never been changed.

Here's a good source of carb kits for the FZR750 as none are available for the FZ750 or FZX700:
https://www.cruzinimage.net/2017/12...50-carb-repair-kits-carburetor-4-repair-kits/
You'll have to use your original main nozzles/needles and main jets but everything else will work.

Chacal (Len) should be able to source compatible throttle shaft o-rings and throttle plate screws:
XJ4ever.com

Lastly, is your wife OK with you using a cookie sheet?

Tony

 

I had no doubt I will get here the help I need!

I will start with the cookie sheet concern @xHondaHack raised ;-)
I ordered a state of the art $20 mechanics tray from Amazon but I guess it's not considered to be an essential item these days hence the shipping will take about two weeks so to the Dollar store I went and a $4 baking tray I got and it works like a charm... we will have to wait and see what's the difference between a 4$ vs $20 trays.

Since I have no clue what I am doing I am trying to be as organized as I can because this is the only way I might have a chance to put it all back together.

As for the plug I was able to extract the broken part from the carb body but I don't have enough thread on the plug itself in order to use it so I will need to order two of these.

The fuel tank is indeed filthy and I will have to clean it somehow. I used vinegar on my other motorcycle and it did an okay job but I might take your advise and try either Evaporust or Rustoleum.

I did get a little bit intimidated today by the shape of things and by the scope of the project I got myself into but then I figured it's a few hundred dollars for therapy, which is very affordable therapy in NYC ;-)

My previous experience of working on a motorcycle was oil change, spark plug change, some other fluids flush and change but nothing on this level of taking the motorcycle apart and putting it back together. I really hope I will be able to do it...

As always thank you all, be safe and stay healthy!

 

Sounds like you’ll be juuuuuuuussttt fine

 

Good evening all,

I am back with some progress, some questions and a devastating revelation...

Please see the attached pictures for the below issues and quesitons.

I got the carburetor cleaned but not assembled yet since I need to buy some broken parts, float needle valves, plugs, float chamber O-rings and I am thinking of buying a set of new screws for the float cover and the vacuum cover, the ones I have are meh.

I have a pilot air jet that I couldn't remove since it's stripped. I just cleaned it and left it as it is. Should I try to take it out somehow or can it stay as it is for now.

I was able to take out three spark plugs but I can't take out spark plug number 3 and I don't want to apply too much force not to break it. I sprayed some PB Blaster and I will try again tomorrow but if anyone has a professional suggestion I would much appreciate it.

The devastating revelation I found out about today is that the engine is seized!

I didn't want to check it before since I wanted to have some lubrication in the cylinders before I do it so after taking out the three spark plugs I applied some Marvel Mystery Oil into these three cylinders shifted to 5th gear and tried to turn the wheel but nothing moved. I then connected a battery and tried to kick it with the starter and same result no movement.

This is something I wasn't expecting when I bought the motorcycle but after seeing the spark plugs I had a bad feeling this is what I am about to face. My first reaction was that I have to get rid of this motorcycle but after thinking about it I decided to see if I can resolve this without taking the engine out and doing a full overhaul, which is not feasible with my working environment.

So...what do I do next? I filled the three cylinders I had access to with the MMO and I guess I will wait a day or two to see what happens but again any professional expert advise from this forum will be much appreciated.

And once again, as always, thank you in advance, be safe and stay healthy!

 

If the engine is seized, and a plug is seized.... just yank the engine and pull the head off. You’ll probably find it’s time for a different engine

 

I am afraid that this kind of restoration is out of the scope of work I am able to put into it. I work outside in our 10'x10' front yard and I am not sure I will be able to have an engine disassembled in the space I have.

I will try to find a way to get the stuck spark plug out and make the engine turn and if I won't have success here I will have to recalculate this project.

 

you may just be fighting a against the gear train and just aren’t turning hard enough... just a thought. Have you pulled off the left engine cover? Put it in neutral, and carefully use a 19mm wrench on the square center to turn the engine.

1. Rotation is counterclockwise
2. Be careful but to hit the little Pick-Up coils metal tips. With 3 out of four plugs out, you’ll have less compression to fight against.


Then you can bring it up the the great CNYCCBB...Central New York Carb Clinic Boneyard of Bikes. LOL

 

Just a suggestion if you have a borescope you can look inside the cylinders and see if there is any visual damage to the bores like scoring. Might just have the rings needing freed with some automatic transmission fluid and acetone mix?

 

But still gotta get that stuck plug out of the one cyl to be able to get a scope in there.....

 

True.

 

Good afternoon,

I filled the three available cylinders with MMO and I will give it some time to do it's thing.

I tried to work on the seized spark plug and I decided that I need a better socket, I have an amazon cheapo thing so I will get a better one with better plug grip and a better handle. Any recommendations?

I would LOVE to attend the CNYCCBB!

I am sure it will be an event to remember even with social distancing, maybe, still in place.

Be safe and stay healthy!

 

Make sure you are using a 6pt socket, not a 12pt socket

 

The exact reason I feel uncomfortable with the socket I have. I use it since I have it but I always had bad experience with the 12 point sockets.

I looked at shops around me and it's hard to find metric tools.

I might end up ordering online and wait for it.

 

Does anyone have a recommendation for a thin wall deep socket for the spark plug?

I looked and I saw a few 12pt sockets, which I have, and no 6pt thin wall socket. I am afraid a regular deep socket won't fit.

Thank you, be safe and stay healthy!

 

do you know anyone nearby that has a Fazer? the original kit came with a 6 point spark wrench that was about 3 inches long with an additional 3 inch section with a "pivot". It allowed better access to that plug.

 

I don't think I know anyone with a Fazer which makes me very proud to have one...

This number 3 plug is indeed the hardest to reach.

But you gave me an idea to maybe look for an original tool set it will be a nice thing to have regardless.

I spray some PB Blaster apply some moderate pressure both counter clockwise and clockwise and I will do it for a few days maybe it will give up. I do the same with the seized engine I add some Marvel Mystery Oil and roll the bike back and forth it might give up as well...

Be safe and stay healthy!

 

Avi,

Guess I don't count yet that you "know" me. I have 2 Fazers.......check my signature.

Sounds like a curveball thrown at you with the stuck plug. I found an extra deep spark plug socket from Motion Pro:
18mm 12 point # 08-0175
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0175

You should also be looking into a proper manual for it too because you'll discover that the correct way to turn that style engine over is via a bolt with a jam nut in the left side of the crankshaft.

You'll have to remove the small side cover and pickup cover. Lock down you're bolt with the jam nut, and rotate counter-clockwise. Sure would help to have all the spark plugs out to eliminate compression resistance.

Tony

P.S. Don't throw anything away.

 

And I have a fazer 700

 

Good morning!

I guess now I know 2 people with 3 Fazers

I did see this Motion Pro socket, and I might buy it, but I was looking for a 6pt socket just to get a little better hold on the plug.

I have the Yamaha Service Manual and I did see on page 3-8 the locknut and bolt needed for turning the crankshaft but I will let it soak the MMO for a few days before I try it.

It's raining today so no work will be done here but maybe it will give the PB Blaster time to work its magic on the plug.

Be safe and stay healthy!

 

Don’t get a 12 pt.

 

Ari,

Not sure if there's a 6 point the correct length that is thin enough to fit the spark plug well?
All I know is that the one I have has served me well on accessing the plugs on all the 5 Valve heads over the years.



Has a thin wall design to fit into low clearance plug cavity but just happens to be a 12 point.

Tony

 

I must say I do agree with you both

I don't have a problem using a 12pt socket, and I would use it with no worries on a regular maintenance task, but this is a hard seized plug that I feel I need the maximum grip to make it turn thus I think a 6pt socket will be better than a 12pt.

I will get the Motion Pro socket because the one spark plug socket I have is a $7 one I got on Amazon and with this Fazer project I decided that in order to avoid unnecessary incidents I will upgrade as I go all of my tools and I started by getting a JIS set and I don't believe what a change it made with every screw I turn.

The seized plug. Not a lot to see here but maybe someone will see the light and will tell me how to get this sucker out. Pardon my French...

Be safe and stay healthy!

 

start by removing the tires.....

 

I was thinking about something at that course, to leave the plug for now, work on the rest and once I can start the engine maybe with the vibration and the engine heat it will be easier to turn this stubborn plug.

What do you think?

 

Never searched for one and can understand you trying to have the best result when attempting to remove the plug.

BTW, you have the carbs out, maybe the intake valves are open so you can give the last cylinder a shot with the MMO?

Glad to see you got a manual, and the JIS screwdrivers.

Tony

 

Is there a tool kit wrench the is really good for that spark plug? I know on some of the bikes I have had (Bandit 1200) the only way to get to some of the plugs is with the tool kit plug wrench. When letting the solution sit in those cylinders I do it for at least a week before I even try to break it loose. The before mentioned 1/2 & 1/2 mixture has worked best for me, but I am sure there are many other potions.

Keep up the good work and persistence, it will pay off.

 

Good afternoon all,

Where's the best place to get brake pads for my Fazer?
I also needs the retaining clips for the retaining pins if anyone can recommend a place to order these as well.

In general is Ebay a good place to buy stuff, I just ordered the carb rebuilt kit on Ebay from a seller in China and I hope that it will be of a decent quality.

I also see brake pads on Ebay but I thought I will ask the experts before order it.

Be safe, stay healthy and have a great weekend!

 

1. Get pads from Len Chacal
2. After you are done getting mad at carbs that don’t work right, get the correct parts from Len Chacal