Gas smell in oil

For bench syncing, just set all four butterflies to the point where the cover half of the hole at the top.

if you’re playing with idle rpms, you’re already running.... which past bench syncing

 

Personally, I’d get the correct seals....I know other people have luck with the O-rings, but I prefer the correct seals.

Check to make sure all four of your vacuum ports are sealed well

 

@Glen F. I dont do over the mail work, but I highlty suggest you send them to @hogfiddles to get them serviced, and inspected. Im more than confident if there is a base thats cracked or any issues he will find them.

 

Do these look correct?

 

not exactly sure what your refering to, but from what I can see yes,

 

Sorry, those are the vacuum ports to sync the carbs. Just looking for anything right about now.

 

whats the hose on #3 ?

 

That goes the the petcock

 

Could that be a cause for vacuum leaks?

 

ok, should not matter much, but its typically on #2. (your petcock vacume hose)

you used the o ring method for the shafts correct.. when you use alternative methods, theres always a chance it doesn't work properly. im going to say yes it can, however we have been working on the asumption that you had ruled this out, by saying the propane test passed..... how did you do the propane test, was the carbs connected to the airbox, or were they open faced (no air box boots connected).
was it ideling.. etc ?

 

I had the bike running at idle. Turned the gas on (not lit) and pointed it towards all the intake boots, and anywhere I could get to on the carbs that I had replaced parts. Nothing changed when I did this. I'm going to order the throttle seals from Len. Guess I might be one of the ones that didn't have success with o rings.

 

ok, sounds like it passed then, so your o rings are working...Im currently using double o rings in my fathers 550 as well.
had a delay in getting new intake boots, so not known at this point if it will work for the longterm.

I would always encourage an OEM part on an OEM engine. so sounds like a decent enough starting point.

 

I'm still going to order new shaft seals. I'm just not trusting the o rings. What else could cause a vacuum leak and where would I look?

 

where the intake boots bolt to the cylinder head, remove them and incpect boots and cylinder port walls for cracks.
if all looks good, I can tell you how to guarantee they dont leak there.

Inspect the boot mating surfaces for areas where there is no contact. they are larger in diameter than the ports are, so you should see a clear "imprint" (slight recess) indication all the way around the boot surface.

 

Guessing an impact gun would be best for that.

 

NOOO!!! lol.. only hand tighten them with 1/4" or 3/8' ratchet and use the silver
(aluminum oxide) anti-seize

 

To remove them. Sorry

 

nope, same tool to remove. any air powered tools can damage the threads in the head. bolts are steel, to fast of a rotation can spin the aluminum threads right out.

 

Got it!

 

inspect those intake boots close and only take them off if you really feel the need to
there's 8 bolts on them, if one snaps, your in a bucket of shit with both feet

 

Ya, that's what I'm afraid of.

 

I did notice when I went for a ride the other evening, at every stop light the rpms slowly started to climb. I had the idle set at about 1200-1300. By the time I got home the rpms were closer to 2000. Was this a sign of a vacuum leak I should have noticed?

 

Did you try the butane gas test around the throttle shaft seals when you were checking the intake boots?

 

Yes I did. Not sure if I got close enough to do the middle 2. Pretty tight.

 

How do I test the petcock to make sure it is not the problem?

 

this is for brake bleeding, but will also do the test you need to do on that petcock..
plus you can use it for brake bleeding when needed also...


https://www.harborfreight.com/dual-vacuumpressure-hand-pump-kit-56803.html

 

How would I use it? Attach it to the vacuum line with gas in the tank?

 

yes, put the fuel feed line in a clear container (so you get a visual of the amount of fuel a single pulse dispenses.
set your petcock to setting that runs the bike, PRI if I remember right. (starting the engine is not required here)
put vacume line on pump fitting of the petcock, and pump it 2 or 3 times, then watch the guage. it should hold its pressure indefinately.

the diaphram pulses in and out with cylinder vacume pressure (not very much).
it has to be air tight on the spring side to prevent any leak of fuel into the cylinder.

when you suck it with the vacume pump, it should hold that pressure till you release it on the hand pump release knob. there is a guage on the hand pump to make this easier and faster to test. if it holds for atleast 3 minutes its good...

length of time will not matter as long as it "holds" the vacume pressure you force on it. the can attached to the hand pump hose will catch any fuel leaking if the pump diaphram is bad, preventing it from entering your new tool and swelling the cheap rubber seals inside it.

if you get fuel out of that vacume connection, you either assembled the parts wrong, or its got a/some bad parts inside of it and will potentially be the source of your fuel in the case oil.

 

Picking one up tomorrow. Just changed the oil. Spun the engine by hand and with the starter. Got a little tired doing it by hand. Drained and put new oil in again.

 

them harbour freight pumps are cheap, but verry useful, make sure it holds pressure before you buy it, put your finger on the end and pump it to full guage reading and make sure it holds pressure for like 30 seconds before you walk out the store with it.

 

https://www.princessauto.com/en/vacuum-pump-and-brake-bleeder-kit/product/PA0008943409. Picking this up tomorrow. Same shit, different pile, but I'll test it first.

 

exellent, thats a step up from the plastic ones I showed you. what happens is they sit on the shelf and the oil used for assembly pools on one side of the pump, and starts to dry up, almost lightly seizing the piston in place, and when you but it and operate it, it breaks this loose and can tear/rip the internal seals. if you ever need to relube the inside use mineral oil... it wont dry up or hurt the seal.

let us know how it goes.

 

Will do!

 

Well not much to test. I put gas in the tank with the petcock on, and gas poured out. Ordering a new rebuild kit.

 

thought you said you had already gotten a new rebuild kit?

 

I did. I guess I screwed something up.

 

the rubber inside has holes in it if its not clocked right it will just dump fuel. turn the valve see if it shuts off?? where was fuel coming from hose hole, or vacume hole?

or take it apart and show some pics of the pieces... all laid out together

 

I might have found the problem. The rubber circle with the four holes was out of alignment, which I would believe is the problem. I probably turned the valve to test it without everything tightened down causing it to move.

 

ok good, re test it...ohh put a slight amount of lube on the seal ...

 

Put a small bit of lube on all the gaskets. Put some gas in it. Clamped off the vacuum line, and a small steady drip from the fuel port. I'm heading to the store to grab the brake bleeding kit to see if that vacuum changes anything.

 

@hogfiddles @k-moe

I have not been in this valve for a few years now, someone more familiar with it, chime in and answer me a question..

before the chrome 2 bolt chrome ring goes on aint there suposed to be a bent (spring) plate that goes on first, then the finish chrome ring plate? Im pretty sure there is, its function is to keep the valve handle pressure agnst the flat seal.. either of you know? I think hes missing a part... the half bent spring shim plate...and outter o ring right?

 

I believe your missing two parts for that petcock.....#17 and #15

17 is another o ring, and 15 is the wave spring plate..

 

15 is the wave washer and 17 is the o ring that goes around the lever

 

yes i got them switched, good call, however where is your #15 at? I did not see it in your pictures? thats what keeps the valve handle tight agnst the flat rubber with 4 holes.

and for reference: the fuel enters the valve out of the center hole.
Pri- is for full flow priming, adter a run dry tank, or carb rebuild.
Res- is for low level fuel in the tank.
On-is where it should be set for normal riding and testing the valve for leaks.

On- setting should not allow any fuel unless the diaphram is operating.

 

It's there. Just tried the vacuum pump, and it doesn't hold pressure at all. Guess that's where my problem is.

 

ok, I just didnt see it in your picture, and it is crucial its there. ok, set the valve to the "on" position, and run a hose from the vacume connector on the diaphram plate to a seperate canister...
see if it starts to drip over a 30 minute time frame....

(fuel in tank, block off the fuel feed to the carbs on the valve, and place a hose from vacume connector to a can to catch any fuel)... if you get a single drop, its a bad diaphram.

 

I have the tank off and attached the pump. It started leaking before I applied pressure. When I placed my order for the rebuild kit, I don' think I ordered a new wave washer. Could this be leading to my problems?

 

the wave washer is just bent spring steel, meaning you can tweak the bend in it to get the righ pressure. but yes you can always order a new one if its even available.

whaer was it leaking from? point at it in a pic.

 

It's dripping out of the fuel line connection.