Advice please

Hi All
Welsh boy from over the pond and new to this forum, bought myself XJ650 Maxim 1982 import non runner to fettle in my twilight years, after fifty years with assortment of bikes, mostly Yamaha, rigged battery up to test lighting etc, i'm stuffed on this question;

• Has the bike need to be running for headlight to work?
• Obvious the light control switch is on the left of handlebar, is this just lights on/hi beam only?
• Turned ignition on, indicators/horn & tail light work but nothing else, is this right for this model?

Previous; owned XJ750 Seca UK spec and two FJ1200 all had light switch on right (throttle side).

This model is all new to me, any advice and help most appreciated.

The non runner part is two pistons stuck in cylinder 3 & 4 rusted rings to barrel due to years in storage, tried all the tips on this forum soaking but no luck.

Kind regards
Ken

 

Yes, the engine needs to be running for headlight to come on.

 

Easiest and cheapest in my opinion is find a used motor Ken.
Can you post some photos ?

 

Appreciate reply, thank you.

 

North American motorcycles are required to have the headlight at all times when the engine is running, so there's no switch to turn it off with.

The pistons and cylinders are the same as on the standard xj650, so you should be able to find a good set if you need to. Oversize pistons and rings are not easy to find, but of course they can be made and you're in the right country for having that done relatively inexpensively.

Are you sure that it's stuck pistons and not a problem in the transmission or with the HY-VO chain that's keeping the crankshaft from turning? I only ask because if that's the case a different engine would absolutely be easier and cheaper.

 

Lol at the "being in the right country for having cheap pistons made".
On my seca (uk spec I think) the hi/low beam is on the left, the off on park is on the right. Same for the JDM import 650 maxim. The maxim doesn't have the Yamaha self cancelling indicators.

 

I did say relatively cheap. There are a ton more small machine shops over there that will work on that sort of project, at least that's what I've been lead to believe.

 

I wish, but you may be right.

 

I also may be crazy

 

It's looking as i have someone to buy it as it is. Now have my eye on 750 Seca, been here before and know all about them.

 

You couldn't write a book on my bad luck chap buying it got taken to hospital on morning of sale.

 

Well, if you look at the bright side, you did not have to be admitted to hospital on the morning of sale.

 

Staying with topic, might as well keep it and put on my big boy pants and get them spanners working, but first, i need to aske a few more questions.

• On the removal of rocker cover which by the way is immaculate inside and everything as it should be, no sign it was anything other than rusted piston rings that is the cause of locked engine. Do i remove the camshaft caps and slide cams out as impossible to get to bolts on chain sprocket.

 

This is the replacement part i have.

 

Don't remove the caps. The sprocket bolts can be removed. But you have to remove the two carriers the cam cover bolts go into on that side of the engine. The camshaft caps don't have bolt holes in the centre of them.

 

Like this. You can use a spanner to stop the cam rotating when removing the sprocket bolts.

 

Have you got a Haynes manual for your bike?

 

Seen the photos of the damage so you need a new head and cams too. Can you get the head off the engine the barrels and pistons came from?

 

Thanks Franz. No damage, the picture shows everything as it should be, the issue is below the head section in the sense cylinder #3/4 rings are rusted to barrel hence my question on cam cap removal to slid them out as everything is locked to get at the sprocket bolts.

 

Have you tried a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid in the third and fourth cylinders. Let it soak a few days and then try and turn the crankshaft with a spanner on the nut below the pick up coil cover. Alternatively if they are really bad slacken the caps a little at a time to remove the cams after removing the tensioner.

 

You name it and i most probably bought/used it at quite a cost so far. Last week i soaked them for the last time as this been going on for over six weeks now in PB Blaster (one of many) over the course of the week been rocking bike back and forth in gear - still no joy.
I've owned bikes for over fifty years, my last two were big lumps (pics) but never an engine issue with any, not afraid to get stuck in (the white FJ i did rear end conversion all from that tiny garage in background) especially now retired but concerned how i get things all lined up (TDC) if i move cam's and start stripping it down.

 

If the tensioner is removed can you move the cam sprocket enough to get at the sprocket bolts with a ring spanner. Unlikely l know just trying to find a solution for you.
Nice FJ 1200s.

 

Thanks for your help Franz, appreciated. Not started work on it as yet, gathering all help/tips for when i do. Good job, far too hot back here, garage is masquerading as a greenhouse.
As for the FJ's - blue one 3xw had to part company with me in 2011 to pay some bills as i hit hard times.
White one was bought for me through lovely generous members of FJ forum Bristol, sadly, that also has departed due to covid and financial embarrassment. Only done 35k, hardly run in for such an over engineered engine
Always a biker and all that, at 67 and poor health i dusted off my trowels (plasterer all my days) and take on small jobs now, that's how i paid for the Maxim, all be it two pots seized (for now).

 

I am the same (carpenter) getting a bit older for the construction work . Persevere with your Maxim and get it back on the road. I like the FJ's never ridden one but they look like comfortable bikes.

 

Great advice Franz, i did put feeler out to a reputable bike mechanic based in Bristol, no problem but i would need you to get it to me he said, price was next question, £300-£500 and I'm supplying the parts, on top of me having it transported at a round trip £250 Bike only cost me £475 minus new front tyre/disc that's £200 worth so, all in all an absolute bargain £275 for a whole bike that's solid with no rust and not a bit on the chrome forks, so crack on as you say.

The FJ's have unbelievable torque, true touring bike, not that i did any hardly any playtime with loads of grandkids and their dog's. The roll-on in third up to top gear would pull you arms out, many ''new bike rocket boys'' would turn green when they passed me, then look in the mirror and I'm on there tail and pushing them - loved winding the so called Moto Gp wannabe right up. Dig out some pics of XJ750 Seca & XJ400 Special i owned and wish i still had.

 

Better fixing it yourself, more fun that way.

 

<a href="https://imgur.com/MjNMCbp"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/MjNMCbp.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> XJ Seca 750 many years ago.
XJ 400 belongs to chap standing, i bought it off him few years after this picture. That's me under my Honda 550 F1, stuck float and petrol pouring out. It was always the ''prince and the pauper'' us two, his bikes never had problems - ever. Same now, both 67 and his ride now, £10k Indian Scout and i got this boat anchor

 

My 750 K2 the one set of points seized and l got home on two cylinders. Fortunately didn't have far to go.

 

Chucked it on ebay auction yesterday, the more i look at items the deeper the money pit is

 

Sold to a chap who has two of the same he's working on, i barley broke even.
Anyone heard of this before; he messaged me few hours after he arrived home to say he freed up the engine!! Apparently he stuck a trolley jack under rear wheel and eventually it gives. Never heard of this trick in all my years, how does it work

 

Rotating the rear wheel with the machine in gear makes more sense. I have not heard of anyone using a trolley jack either.

 

This is the actual message; Trolly jack under rear wheel, jack her up one side at a time, finally it gives. What does he mean one side at a time! surly the jack is central under wheel.

 

Whatever he used the wheel would need to be rotated and the machine in gear to get the crankshaft to turn. Is he putting the jack under the tyre at right angles to the wheel at say 5 oclock and then 7 oclock alternately and lifting it to try and turn the wheel? I doubt the jack saddle would grip the tyre. It would be easier to run it down a hill in fifth gear and then let the clutch out.

 

Not sure how he did it but he said the engine was spinning over on starter. Might be rubbing salt in my wound as i put my fifty plus years experience in this and still it wouldn't budge. The mind boggles.

 

If he has freed it chances are it will need repairs anyway to the bores if the corrosion is that bad. Did he get the replacement cylinders and pistons with the bike?

 

He sure dam did, they cost £130 alone, he had them and the bike for £420. It was on ebay twice at £575 but stopped short at £380, insert cost was costing on top of my loss.
Not all doom, put a deposit on a nice little XJ600N i came across in cars & classic, well looked after and the bonus - it works - yay! Just waiting for bike transport chap due back from holiday this weekend, used him before, bit salty but dam good.

 

Great you got another bike well done, a runner .

 

She's home with me now and in unbelievable condition.

Do anyone know if i could fit a rear wheel hugger!

 

325320981569 put this number in the eBay search it might be what you are looking for.

 

Head scratch time
Busy last few weeks, yesterday decided to start & run bike up to temp, after few minutes petrol running down underneath tank, stopped soon as i hit kill switch.
Today, suspended tank, enough to get good look at everything, all rubber pipes sound and no obvious petrol staining to be seen. Proceeded to get fire extinguisher at the ready, just in case! Hit the start button, not a drop anywhere, left it warm up then blipped throttle, still no sign anywhere
Never had or seen this on any bike owned past 50 years.

 

Not unknown for rubber in the petcock to be dried out and leaky, but swells up slightly when wet with fuel.

 

It appeared from opposite side Dave.

 

Gasket under the fuel gauge sender? Not sure if the 600 Divvy has one.

 

Picture is not my shock just example of my query. Any ideas anyone on how to undo top mounting as whole thing turns. Spring has motorcycle coil compressor to both sides, tried grips with protection on jaws on piston shaft but it still turns. Mounting is being replaced by new cnc item to make bike lower.
Thanks in advance.

 

If you grip the damper rod with non slip material in the jaws like rubber and put a bar through the top and hit the bar with a hammer it might loosen. Worth a try if you are stuck.

 

Thank you Franz, appreciated.