1983 XJ650 Maxim bringing back to life

@Melnic Keep an eye on that fuel line you are using. If that is not rated for fuel, it will get very hard and possible crack in the future. From either the fuel of from the heat in that area. Just a heads up.

 

Yes, rated for fuel (Tygon) . As an added caution, I'm using Ethanol free in this bike

 

There's a 90° style filter like that, it make routing the fuel line without bends super easy.

 

Tell me more! Where did you see that? I have a brass 90 degree fitting that I almost used here.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Inline-Fuel-...s=90+degree+fuel+filter&qid=1675972986&sr=8-2

 

Darn, that design can yield bubbles at the top that you have to shake out unless I mount it with the inlet vertical then the outlet horizontal. Not sure if I could fit that down under the boots or not. But I ordered a set so I can look at it.
The good thing is if its horizontal and any larger pieces come in, it will settle away from the stone in the fat part.

 

So far so good. Been putting short trips and mostly slow speed drills on the bike prepping for my MSF class in 2 weeks.
My buddy and I have gone on rides with this bike and I have also taken trips on another bike I acquired a month ago.

I may have the dreaded "growing oil' issue going on. I have an On/OFF/RES petcock on the bike and not the vacuum petcock. I drained a most tiny bit of oil from the bottom and the oil window dropped to 1/2 reading. Did not smell like gasoline. dropping such little amount the window Seems sensitive to me. Outside of this, bike is running good. Not a a brand new bike to be expected but running reliably.

I put a spitfire windsheild on it the other day. Definitly cutting down on the wind.

 

When the engine's good and hot the oil level will rise just a touch. Only way to be sure is check it routinely either cold or hot, but be consistent.
The difference between cold and hot oil level isn't really enough to be concerned about, though.
When my bikes were working for a living, I'd commonly check them hot by grabbing the throttle bar end and pulling the bike level.

 

Also nice to have a mate hold the bike upright and level on both wheels while you check.

 

I"m checking it on the center stand and in the same spot I park it in the Garage.
I have pulled oil out of it twice since changing the oil. I'm thinking that idling it to warm it up vs riding it will settle the oil differently and that when I filled it up, I put oil in it, then idled it for a very short while, then put oil in it. that led me to fill it up too high.
I'm always checking it stone cold in the morning. Temps in my garage have been about 60F lately so not that cold as when I had changed the oil which was in the 40's. I can see how running it hot from a 15 min ride it will slowly rise over an hour, then leave it be till the morning and look again. I'll see if I cancheck it consistently after a good 15 min minimum ride after its gone cold. So, Ride 15 mins or more, stop, set up on stand, wait till morning. Check Level.

 

So, issue was me and how I"m checking oil. I found that the oil level will drop about 20-40% if you start it and don't let it warm up enough. So, when I put oil in it, I did not let it warm up enough before putting in oil and filled it up to near the Max line. Thus when I rode the bike on an hour ride, the oil was hot and thin enough to flow back down all the way. So, given what I learned. Next time I do an oil change, I'll run it after putting oil in it then just fill up to say 25-50% of the window and then go on a longer ride then check again. I actually put some oil back in to get where I am at now which is about 10% below the max line after a 30 minute ride.

 

Always check it cold, and on the center stand on level ground.

 

I have indeed been doing that, but if I started cold then ran the bike for just a few minutes but did not get it hot enough the level will be lower the next time I check. Starting it cold and running a few minutes then checking it cold, it will drop 20-40% over running it hot from a ride then letting it cool down.

 

I would expect there’s plenty of oil still up in the top end it hasn’t drained all the way back down yet.

 

Oil level is all stable now that I am checking it correctly.

Had not taken this bike out in about a week then took it out yesterday. I had just taken another bike out and was on the back road near my house and the Speedo seemed REALLY off. Reading faster than actual.
Stopped then turned on my Nav app on my phone to compare and 650 was reading about 10mph too fast. Rode another 5 miles or so and the number got closer. By the time I got home from the short 10 mile ride, it was about 2-4mph fast @40mph.

 

Bike still riding well. Pulled the plugs last week after a 45 minute ride and they look good. One thing I notice is that with the clear fuel filter, every time I turn the petcock on after not riding it for a week, fuel flows for about 20-30 seconds. Is fuel evaporating from the bowls that much? If I don't let the fuel fill back up and wait for it, its harder to start of course. I can imagine if I had the vacuum petcock back on, i'd have to prime it for that period of time to get it to start easier. I'm running Ethanol Free gas ONLY in this bike.

I'm losing air in my forks. Its noticeable cause if I don't put air in it before I ride, just hitting the driveway I bottom out the front end. (steep driveway entrance at the street).
I purchased a valve tool/kit so I can see about changing out the schrader valve core.

No signs of leaking fork oil.

 

It is my opinion that the schrader valve be used as a bleeder (like a dirt bike) and replace the springs with something stiffer from the aftermarket.
Progressive or Race Tech are good options. A cheaper alternative is to put a longer spacer in with the OEM spring which will increase the preload.

 

Thx, I was wondering if that was going to be the course of action if I ever pulled the forks apart.

I purchased a Shraeder valve tool kit and replaced both inner valves. Had to pop the handle bar off to be able to fit the tool in.
Set it to 16psi and will let it sit for a couple days. Darn thing holds so little air that just checking the pressure you lose about 2-4 psi.
The plastic caps that both thread into the valves and cover it cosmetically are cracked so they are functionally no good for keeping the air in from a leaking valve.
I think I'll dremmel the threaded area then put a low profile cap on the valves, then put the cover back on.

 

I bought a handy pump just for that purpose. A bit expensive, was a little less last year.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FXOXKHI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Is that going to fit in the limited space I have from the valve to the bars? its cramped in there.
Right now, I have a digital gauge on a fitting of my air compressor. I know where to set the dial on the compressor regulator to get 15-17 psi and can confirm with the digital gauge that matches my stick gauge.