What did you do to your Yamaha today?

I fitted a pair of Dyna mufflers, but the gotcha is the differing placement of the first blanking baffle inside each of them. I removed them and replaced both with an adjustable baffling setup.

 

Yes I would go with the Sportster one's rather than try and repair in mine were in that condition.

 

Were they easy to fit?

Like these?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/35524682...N06CjK0olzCFpuxtgZ43Bdk8nsTPcnpwaAiPhEALw_wcB

 

Got my problems sorted on the 1100. Appears I just had a partially pinched fuel line in my temporary setup so it was slowly starving of go juice. I put the octopus back on. If you've never had the joy of working on one of these, you're not missing out. Two petcocks, each with two fuel lines converging to a common vacuum valve then branching back to two fuel rails. In the stock configuration they're a pain, but I added a pair of inline filters which made it horrific. I might plan a conversion to a pair of standard on/off petcocks in the future.

But that aside, finally could put a few miles on the bike without it conking out. Enjoying it more each time.

 

They were easy enough to physically fit, just needed a packing collar on the front end (that was the cut-off entrance of the old mufflers).

 

Ideal for my 900 cheers.

 

I was immediately struck by the quality of them, compared to the cheap-ass crap of aftermarket budget silencers.
I don't see the arse rusting out of these any time soon.
These Dyna or Sporty mufflers are a good source of decent parts, along with the factory air shocks that many H-D owners discard.

 

More miles on the "new" bike today. I might need to start picking away at paint and trim. No complaints so far!

 

Did nothing important to my XJ today, raining in buckets right now. Did make a quick custom boot screen for the Garmin GPS I use on the bike.
Just waiting for the clutch friction & steel kit to show up so I can put an end to the slip n' slide during the ride, once again the USPS is playing the delay game as these parts were scheduled for delivery today... now it's a promise for monday.

 

You got the shocks on your 900f and GS1000?

 

I have the shocks on a GS850 (been using air shocks for 30+ years after buying a set of S&W which are still on the other GS), and another pair to go on the XS650.
The XJ9 is still fine with its Hagons for now.
There is a spare set needing a rebuild after blowing their guts out on a massive pothole.
Showa air shocks, perfectly suit my riding style.

 

Having put over 100,000 miles on multiple Harleys with stock mufflers, I can vouch for their rust resistance.

As for the air shocks, I must differ. They came as stock parts on five of my Harley touring bikes, and they were just junk. Hard to adjust, prone to leakage, and any damping they provided was accidental. Somebody once told me the MoCo’s cost for these things was under ten bucks each. Wouldn’t surprise me. Perhaps, as they were specified to work on a 600-900 pound touring bike, they will work OK on a bike weighing 1-400 pounds less. But I know why so many H-D owners discard these things, as I was one of them.

 

Is it me or has HD's quality gone down that far that they would compromise on a shock absorber? Wow! So much for American quality.

 

just finished putting on a new peacock and fuel line. old owners put one that wouldn't let me go to reseve so i'd just run outta gas somewhere and be screwed, currently looking into getting the front end off a 750 maxim so i've dual brakes instead of the single.

 

Yeah, it's probably the weight difference that helps, but the fully-loaded GS850 is no lightweight itself. Whatever, I'm quite happy with my choice and have had no reason to regret it. I always run them at 35 - 40psi, which gives a firm ride and definitely helps.
After buying the S&W shocks I next bought a set of Showa air shocks from a Kwak GT750 and they lasted for ages, until the aforementioned pothole killed them. It was after that I discovered H-D take-off Showas. Might well be that I just got lucky with low-mileage unworn shocks, but for the bargain price I paid, I'm not complaining.

 

I have got YSS shocks on my 900f now.

 

Other way around. I first encountered their lousy air shocks in 1983, and four bikes and over 20 years later (my 2004 Road King) they were still using them. They looked like the OEM shocks for an early Gold Wing. I have heard from people on other Harley boards that they may have finally used up the warehouse full of these things, and started putting better ones on the touring models. Wouldn't know. I ditched the air shocks on my Road King about two years after I bought it, in favor of Progressive 412s, which were replaced a few years ago by SuperShox™, made by a relatively local (Woodstock IL) racing suspension company. Vast improvement. The biggest problem with Harley rear suspension is that you just can't do much with two inches of travel.

 

Found a thread about carb racks on another website which compelled me to change mine.

Here’s the simple but effective setup. It’s very easy to level, and sturdy (as you could imagine) so manipulating the drain screws is simple.

Simple idea:


Old vs new:


No mess with a drain pan right below:


Also bought an official Yamaha fuel level measuring tool. $18 is pricey but it makes life easy.
(No fuel in tube, just photo fodder):


Here’s a ton of different carb rack ideas:
https://kzrider.com/forum/21-tools/535878-carb-stand-from-old-carb-holders?start=72

 

Here's how I did mine. Simple but it worked.


Hard to see in this picture, but there is a funnel plugged into the end of the fuel line.


Magnetic level across the top of the hats.


My calibrated eyeball says that's three millimeters.

Wet-setting the float levels is a gold plated pain in the rear, but it's 90% just the annoyance of draining the carbs, taking the bowls off, making a tiny adjustment to the float tang and discovering the adjustment wasn't quite tiny enough...

Still, could be worse. At least the procedure in the manual is correct. I once set the float level in my 1990 Harley according to the official H-D factory manual, and it started starving for fuel at any speed above 40 mph... because the manual had the fuel level set too low, and as the bike got thirstier with increasing speed, the float eventually dropped until it was resting on the bottom of the bowl, but the needle was still too far closed to supply more than 40 mph. A month or so later, google finally got me to an online copy of the instructions that came with a new float needle, which included the correct level. To the best of my knowledge, H-D never corrected its official manual. Oh joy!

 

I'm another to vouch for the bench vise.
I drilled a hole through some wood so the idle adjuster isn't clamped.
If you don't have a bench vise, then you need one.