drain front fork oil?

how do i drain the fork oil with removing them from bike, without drilling a hole? is there a drain plug that i'm not seeing?

 

First let the air out of the forks. Then put something under the forks to catch the oil. There is a little phillips screw on the bottom, back side of the fork. Not the allen on the actual bottom but it's a little bit up from the bottom on the side, rear part of fork.

Take that out and the oil drains out. Pump the forks with screw out to get most of the oil out. Lather, rinse and repeat for other fork. You have to pull the top piece off to refill though. It's a bolt held on by a clip underneath the numbered fork adjuster.

 

ok thanks. i want to ride but can't get it inspected with the one fork leaking. and right now don't want to take the forks apart so close to winter. and taking it to the stealer is expensive. i don't ride much so i wouldn't think a few rides would hurt it.

 

You're already doing half the job. Bang yourself a new seal in there and be done with it.

Or, if all you're trying to do is pass inspection - pry the dust cover up, pack some tissue under it and put it back in place. Should keep the dirty rings off the forks long enough to get by the inspector.

**EDIT**
Don't "Pack" the tissue too tight or it won't hold any oil.

 

oh i see now why you said that. i meant to say without removing the forks from the bike.

 

I have a leaky seal. Would it be fixed by just prying the old dust seal off and putting a new on on? Or is there another oil seal below that needs to be replaced as well? Don't really want to rebuild the forks yet. just want to stop the seepage.

Thanks,

Mike

 

The oil seal is under the dust seal. Unless there is visible damage it's not necessary to replace the dust seal.

 

First off, can't replace EITHER the dust seal or the actual fork seal below it without removing the fork(s) from the bike. It IS possible to remove the forks one at a time, but actually more of a hassle than tearing the whole thing apart. DO NOT DRAIN YOUR FORK OIL UNTIL you are sure you have access to put it back. The fork caps/spring seats on BOTH my 550's are currently rusted in place preventing me from doing this much-needed maintenance. It would be MUCH WORSE had I drained the oil PRIOR to discovering I have no way to replenish it...if you don't want to tear into the forks now, do the tissue thing (but use a chunk of a paper shop rag, tissue will disintegrate too easily) to get by inspection and fix 'em in the off season. BTW, I run "shop rag packing" between the dust seals and fork seals on the Nort ALL THE TIME because the dust seals make such poor contact and/or seal with the forks the rag helps keep crap outta the seals. NOT A RECOMMENDED long-term fix for a Yamaha. Boy am I glad we don't have vehicle inspections for bikes in MI.

 

bigfitz52 -

I had some luck busting spring seats (the caps at the top of the fork) loose by completely filling the fork with gear oil (no air at all), and compressing in a bar clamp. I put the oil in through the hole for the damping rod bolt.

Likewise, you could put new oil in through the same hole and not remove the spring seats.

A bit of impact will usually break that bolt loose without having to insert a holder through the top of the fork (which can't be done with stuck spring seats).

 

Carl; My solution (currently) is to SMITE the plugs to move them down just below the circlips, then liberally apply PB Blast (or JB80) put the rubber caps back and RIDE IT. Coupla rides later, the plugs are back up. Lather, rinse, repeat. I keep pounding 'em down and oiling 'em, and (eventually) up they pop. They will have to free up eventually. I had SERIOUSLY considered refilling the forks thru the drain hole...

 

Just don't smite them down too far/hard. There is a taper just below them that will grab them tight. I have experience with that situation.

 

What thinkest ye of the idea of drilling and tapping reasonably-sized holes in the center of the spring seats, and putting a bolt with a gasket (like the drains) in there? Then all that would be necessary to do the oil change would be to pull the bolts out, instead of half disassembling the forks every time. Obviously I can't do it until I get the forks apart tho, to clean out the drillin's...

 

ive heard of it being done before, personally i would suggest just buying new forks that would fit, with drains already in them.
i have a used set of 550 forks sitting here i picked up cheap, that i would let go of for cost, that i thought i would use on my 750, but i didnt like the fact id have to remove one of my front brakes.