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Free offer on '83 750 Maxim-some questions

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by roverguy, Aug 22, 2008.

  1. roverguy

    roverguy Member

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    I spotted a Maxum sitting next to a neighbor's house this spring & noticed it was not being riden. I have been thinking about getting a bike to commute to the train & around town. This would be my first bike, although I rode a little 30 yrs ago on a friends. It might be alittle big for me, I'm mid 40's 5'10" 175lbs.

    Anyway I left a note & the owner just called me back saying he bought it new in '86, it was a wharehoused tarrif bike & he rode it until 5 yrs ago. Unfortuneatley it's been sitting out all that time uncovered. I actually doesn't appear to be in bad cosmetic shape. So I played the angle that I would have to assume it was a non runner. I asked him what he wanted for it & he said, how about if I give it to you! I don't even know the guy, but he said he'd rather see it get back on the road. He has the title & keys.

    So I'm going to take a close look at it tonight. I've restored old cars & know that worst thing you can do it let it sit out without being mothballed.

    So, what am I in for, assumming it was running well when put away?

    Even for free, I don't have the time/energy/$ to put a ton into it.

    I'm thinking, pull the tank, drain & boil, pull the carbs & clean/rebuild & check/change all the fluids. I assume the tires would need to be replaced?

    I have never worked on a bike, but as I said I am mechanically inclined.

    So, anyone with thoughts please chime in with cautions about this.

    p.s. I couldn;t find much one way or the other on this model. Good, bad, or indifferent.

    Any info would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
     
  2. kd5uzz

    kd5uzz Member

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    I can't comment on the dangers of accepting it, but I will say that I just got an 82 650 maxim back on the road. It hadn't been outside, but it had been sitting for 2 years. A friend just gave it to me. I've got a few gremblins still, but nothing a few hours with some wrenches and a few dollars won't fix (clutch, brakes, and generator).

    I don't have much experience on motorcycles, but I've ridden a few different styles and I LOVE my maxim. It has the most comfortable low speed riding position I've felt.

    You said you had been thinking of getting a bike anyway. I'd look at it like this: if you were to go buy a bike that was in decent condition you would spend X dollars. How much work can you do (or have done) to the maxim for the same price? Don't forget the cost of bringing the tag up to date, etc.

    For me it was worth it. I'm sure you'll enjoy it if you decide to give it a go. If not, let me know, maybe I will :)
     
  3. turtlejoint

    turtlejoint Member

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    Welcome roverguy,

    i was in a similar situation just 2 months ago. the only difference was that i had to pay 500 bucks for my bike....

    your expectations of work on this bike are probably accurate. mine had been sitting outside on a porch with a tarp on it.

    like you im technically/mechanically inclined but i had never worked on a bike. with the help of this site and a manual, i was able to tear my carbs apart and get my bike on the road.

    right now it still needs work... tons of it really.. but im going to wait until winter to tear it apart. the good news is that parts for these bikes are dirt cheap and they are easy and fun to work on. the bad news is that the bike may suck you in...
     
  4. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Go for it!
    I got the same exact deal from ma guy and took a bike that sat under a freaking Pine Tree for years.

    I had to do all the usual stuff: tires, brakes, fluids a MAJOR Carb Cleaning and a whole laundry list of cosmetic stuff ...

    But, ...

    Today, it's my daily rider.
    I love it.
    There wasn't too much keeping him from riding it either. I bet if he had known the original Fuse Panel was to blame for the Bike nor running ... he'd of never given it away.

    Go get it.
    Evaluate it.
    If it looks like a Money Pit ... then, YOU give it away!

    If she cleans-up and goes ... you're the Winner!

    Remember what the Cycle Press said about the XJ-Bike Engines!

    "They are hard to kill. You have to deliberately abuse an XJ-Bike to mess it up."
     
  5. roverguy

    roverguy Member

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    Thanks for the input guys, I just got back from looking it over. Orig owner, older guy late 50's gave up riding 5 yrs ago, tarped it & walked away. Tarp blew of 2 yrs ago, so it's been in the elements. We are near the ocean so the air can be pretty salty. But, the chrome on the front fender & headlight is great, minimum other rust on other chrome parts. Alum. oxidized, side covers need to be repainted & cleaned up. Outside of tank needs a good rub down & boiled out. Bike is very complete, including key, title & he thinks he has owners manual. Also has a tank pack. Seat in very good cond with no rips, or tears, thanks to being out of the sun under an apple tree. Carbs seem to be froze, or cable anyway, I couldn't get it to roll, so I assume brake caliper is frozen. A small old mouse nest under seat, but no noticable chewed wires. Left hand header pipe is shot, others look so so.

    Seemed to shift alright, brake pedal still moved.

    Looks like a case of de-rusting alot of the metal moving parts, tearing down the carbs & brakes. Tires also so-so.

    It has 11,000 on it & he says he just put it away running. Very honest guy with nothing to lose either way.

    So rough numbers from you guys who have done brakes, batt, exh, carbs, tires. ABout how much am I looing at if I do it my self? $4-500 & then what is it worth if I want out?

    Thanks for your help
     
  6. turtlejoint

    turtlejoint Member

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    id be suprised if you had to drop more than a couple hundred when its all said and done. its really looking like more of a time investment than a money pit. i put about 3 hundred in mine including some new tools and new hadware for the carbs. once you get it running you could dump it for some cash but your karma maybe in question when your neighbor sees you cashed in on his generosity.
     
  7. chadwickm

    chadwickm Member

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    I have $1250.00 in mine, but your's sounds to be in MUCH better shape. I'd say 3 to 5 hundred to get her going and safe to ride, another 3 to 5 hundred if you want to make her pretty.

    If you want out and it's running, it's worth what someone is willing to pay. The way bike prices have been this year, I'd guess $1500.00, but that's just my guess! :D
     
  8. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    11,000 Miles!
    It ain't even broke-in yet, brother.
    Bring ... the ... bike ... HOME!

    Even if you have to buy tires and a new battery you shouldn't have to put more than 4-Bills into it to get it a safe condition to ride.

    Set your mind to doing the cosmetics over time.
    Think about just getting it Cleaned and tuned and bopping down the boulevard for a few months ... and do the detailing and pimping --> Later!

    You going to go and get that bike and fix the damn thing up over the course of the next 18-24 months is a ...

    NO BRAINER!!!
    Go get it!
    Think about it later.
     
  9. Lisa

    Lisa Member

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    tires can be had as little as $100 for not a huge name brand (I bought some shinko 712s and have been happy with them). Can you move the carbs with out the cable?

    I never worked on a bike before and my mechanical experience on the car was limited to changing the oil and changing brake pads under guidance. so far on the bike i've changed the oil, pulled the wheels to bring them in for tire replacement and changed out the front forks. this winter I plan on doing a few jobs on the bike while i have it stored indoors.
     
  10. MalcolmBliss

    MalcolmBliss Member

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    I'd have to agree with Mr. Richard on this one. I paid $1000 for my Maxim and couldn't be happier. The owner decided to try and fix the carbs but ended up making them even worse. Typical "shadetree" mechanic work.

    Now it runs great after undoing the stupidity that was done to it and I use it to run around all the time. It does have a few problems that are minor compared to the fun I get from it now.
    The hardest thing I believe you'll deal with is the carbs. They are a bit touchy, but ask for help here and people will answer all your questions.

    I think you'd be passing up a great bike if you don't take the time to fix the things it needs. I had a 1980 CB750 Super Sport before this one. I can tell you when I put the wood to this bike, it flat-out frightens me...
     
  11. roverguy

    roverguy Member

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    Think I'm gonna drop the hammer on this one, the wife said Ok, sort of, Bike cannot dispace her car from the garage & I have to get my boat project I started for my son done before I even look at the bike.

    Some good news, I went over to look at it again and sprayed some pen oil on the front disc & bleed screws & they opened right up. Got some fluid to squirt & locked them up & broke the front brake free.

    Two flats right now & sitting in some gravel, so kinda tough to push by myself.

    Rear brake nice & free. Can't seem to move the carbs, but sprayed them down good for now to soak.

    With the tire pumped up & 10 feet of gravel to the road what's the chance of my 16yr old (strong) & I pushing the bike a block & a half on slight up hill, then down my long driveway?

    Kind scary?

    I have a small flatbed util trailer, I can tip up, I guess I could come along it onto the trailer. What's best way to tow the block &1/2 at 5 mph up on stand with come alongs?

    A photo attached.
     

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  12. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Don't try to push it with those tires flat. You just run the risk of dumping it.

    Get your trailer in the act and use a trio of Tie-down Straps.

    Run the Front wheel up to the front of the trailer and then use the tie-down on the handlebars. Pull the tie-down tight enough to get the bike to kneel into the fork springs on both sides.

    Then, use the other one to keep the back end from shifting.
    Go slow!
     
  13. xyxj650

    xyxj650 Member

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    Welcome aboard! I think you did well on that find. I would have no second thoughts on taking that one. It will be worth it in the long run to fix that bike up and drive it. Good luck and keep us posted. If you have any ?'s feel free to ask and if you need a few parts follow these links. They may be your ticket to saving a few $'s.

    Chacal the local parts guy give him a shout if you need anything
    http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2584.html

    or www.partsnmore.com
    Hope these links come in hand for you!
     
  14. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Rover:

    You won't regret it, Man. Not for a free bike. Just relish having those low miles working for you and bring it back a little at a time.

    That bike has been just been napping. Now you take-over for someone who didn't have the ability and support to make it go. Seems to me like you do.

    Some day, down the road,, you can look at the odometer flipping-over to 15,000 Miles. When that day comes, you'll have turned the bike into a fun-machine that won't need much more than an Oil Change every so often as you get to be the guy to keep it moving-on toward 20-Grand and beyond.

    Welcome to "Restorations"
    Don't get overwhelmed and get too far ahead of yourself.
    When the warm sun beckons you to rush it so you can get-out and play; you might wind-up taking shortcuts and doing things in a rush that could come back to haunt you.

    Whatever you decide to do ... do it with Gusto!
    Nice find.
    Great bike.
    Make it yours and make us all proud!
     
  15. gdewit79

    gdewit79 Member

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    I would have jumped on that in a heartbeat!! The way my bike sits right now, I have $600 into it. Given I sold a Maxim 400 before I fixed up my XJ, I think I might be out about $300 in total!

    These bikes are really great to ride, and very easy to handle.
     
  16. roverguy

    roverguy Member

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    Well, I was getting nervous all weekwnd, I left a message Sat for the guy on his door that I'd like to take the bike, but I drove by his house & they must have gone away for the weekend. So I'm off today & then away the rest of the week, so I call his house at 7:30 this morning, figuring I'd catch him before he goes to work.

    He says come on over & grab the bike & stop by after he gets home from work to do the paper work.

    I go over with my port compressor to pump up the front tire, but it's so flat I can;t get any air in it. I have my utiltiy trailer and a couple of planks & a come along. A couple of guys are working on the house next door & I ask them for a hand & 1/2 hr later the bike is home in my driveway. Just got the title an hour ago. Included a nice tank bag with map pocket, key & will get me the owners manual.

    I'm psyched!

    So, a question, the key he gave me unlocked the seat & helmet latch, but I can' get the tank & ign to turn.

    Do they run 2 seperate keys?? Like a valet key??

    I sprayed some PB blaster in the switches a few days ago.

    Thanks for the help & encouragement.
     
  17. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    I only got the one Key!

    Does everything.
    Ignition, tank, seat and whatever they call the chain-lock.
    4 -in- 1
     
  18. MalcolmBliss

    MalcolmBliss Member

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    Maybe the owner knows something and forgot to tell you about the locks like possible replacement parts that don't match the originals. Otherwise, I'd have to assume that corrosion may have gotten the best of those parts. PB Blaster works but I have had better luck with Liquid Wrench myself. Doesn't stain your parts either.
     
  19. 85MaximXX

    85MaximXX Member

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    I have two keys for my X but I am sure it is because the original owner bent the forks and replaced the entire front end. One key works the tank, seat, and helmet lock the other the Ign.
     
  20. roverguy

    roverguy Member

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    Kinda starnge that he would have replaced the ign & tank cylinders, or the seat lock. I think it is corrosion, cause the both face up & plenty of moisture can get in. The seat lock is facing sideways.

    So if I can't get the key to work do I drill out the tank lock? Can you buy a replacement tumbler?

    I see a new ign setup with key on ebay for less than $40. Is it a bear to get the old unit off?

    Hopefully 4 days of soaking while I'm out of town will do the trick. I really want to see the inside of the tank; or maybe I don't!!!

    Next up is a shop manual. Any suggestions?
     
  21. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Having the Factory Workshop Manual is a wise investment.
    The Book is dedicated to ONLY your Bike.
    There's no confusion.
    You have the Manual, in hand, and can take it anywhere ... open it and become familiar with everything there is to do and how to do it.

    Having the Book to answer those questions that come-up is ideal.
    Having the Book right there while you DO a job is indispensable.
    There's no misprints or confusing details about other models or years.

    One Bike.
    One Book.
    The Bible according to Yamaha!
     
  22. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    KEYED ITEMS-R-US!:

    Replacement tumblers are not readily available. New caps are:

    gc2) OEM fuel tank GAS CAP, complete with lock and 2 keys. Brand new, original chrome-plated, flip-open style gas caps or black screw-on design caps are just like original.


    HCP2904 OEM Complete Gas Cap with lock and a pair of keys. Fits all XJ550 models, all XJ650 models (except Turbo), all XJ700 non-California models, all XJ750 models, and XJ1100 models. Includes the HCP170 cap-to-tank sealing gasket. Mounting screw to tank is not included.
    $ 54.00


    HOWEVER, if your cap is okay, and there is no key broken off inside the lock cylinder, a better idea may be to take the bike (or just the tank, if necessary) to a locksmith who can "pick" the lock pretty easily (I can pick them in about 3 minutes with what amounts to a hairpin and a screwdriver, and I ain't that good at it!), and now that the cap is open, he can probably cut a key for you for about $15-25 for that lock. If the ignition switch is keyed the same as the gas cap, then it's your lucky day, punk. :D

    If not, then...........

    is4) OEM and aftermarket IGNITION SWITCH can be a cause of hard-to-diagnose electrical gremlins. Our brand new OEM and aftermarket replacement switches come complete, ready-to-install, with electrical harness and connector and a matched set of 2 keys. NOTE: keys will not look like the original keys, and the "key position" decal differs slightly in appearance from original.


    HCP447 OEM IGNITION SWITCH, with built-in steering lock mechanism. Fits all XJ550 models, all XJ650 models (except Turbo), all 1983 XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim, and all XJ900RK models.
    $ 109.00

    HCP1546 Aftermarket IGNITION SWITCH, with built-in steering lock mechanism. Pretty much an exact reproduction of the original, includes the 3-wire harness with white connector. Fits all XJ550 models, all XJ650 models (except Turbo), all 1983 XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim, and all XJ900RK models.
    $ 27.00
     
  23. roverguy

    roverguy Member

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    Thanks; so back to my orig question, looks like the two cylinders must just be corroded?

    If so I'll give it one more try when I get home. I have to pull the tank anyway to drain & clean it, so it should be easier to work on. The ign is going to be the tough part.

    Chacal: You seem to be the source for many of the parts for these machines; are your parts listings just through the link on this site, or do you have a seperate web page? A manual will be the first thing I order.

    I'm sure I'll be contacting you for parts as I get into this project a little more. What is your payment option?

    Also, do you carry only new parts? I am looking for a lh exh collector.

    Thanks for your patience for this newbie..
     
  24. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    Soaking the tumblers in oil is a wise move. Be sure to clean it all out after you get the lock operable again. I would advise against drilling the tumblers out if at all possible, you can salvage the assembly without too much difficulty. Have you determined if the lock has been "punched"? Slide the lock cover out of the way and take a close look for bent metal.
     
  25. roverguy

    roverguy Member

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    I always like the oil & let soak method, esp since I'm out of town & it's just doing it's job till I get back. I haven't ordered the manual yet, or looked into removing the entire switch; is there an anti theft cover, or special screws that would prevent me from taking the ign assly off to bring inside & work on, or visit a locksmith?
     
  26. xyxj650

    xyxj650 Member

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    If it is anything like my bike all you should have to do is pull the plastic cover off that is around it and there should only be a couple of screws that hold it on. Also you may have to get inside the headlight to get at the wires to disconnect them. That should be all there is to it.
     
  27. 85MaximXX

    85MaximXX Member

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    If what you used does not free it up try some brake fluid it creeps very well and has saved me from some tough situations before. Just be careful not to spill it all over the tank it isn't good for the paint.
     
  28. ricklees

    ricklees Member

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    Holy Cow,

    You are sooo lucky to have this xj given to you.

    You're gonna really like once you have it ridable.

    It's already a nice looking bike.

    Congratulations. Anything you need to know can be found right here on this forum. This group of people are fantastic for helping out and knowledge!
     
  29. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    I'd just get a New Ignition Switch.
    The Ignition Switch is easily swapped-out.
    Just a couple of regular Hex fasteners holding it in place.
    The Pigtail plugs into the Harness and you're done!

    You'd have two Keys.
    One for the Ignition and another for the Fuel and Helmet Lock.
    But, that shouldn't get in the way of a sunburn when you go riding.
     

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