Seems like timing won't advance - maybe carb issue?

Ok, Here we go. I have read tons of the posts on this forum and I still don't feel confident that I can go in the right direction. I will try to give you all the data, to eliminate the requests I see for "what kind of bike is it, etc"
I have an 82 Yama Seca 750. All original, 15k miles.
I rode this bike a lot 2 years ago until I hit some oil on a curve and dumped the bike - no major damage to me or my bike! Went down on my left side in some dirt and bushes.
A month ago, I decided that I would get this bike up and running, partly because my son got a bike and wanted to ride with me - mostly because I missed it!.
Here are the symptoms;
1) Won't idle or run without the choke on.
2) When I drive it down the street, it feels like the secondary (jets/barrels?) do not engage as it accelerates slowly, sounds like it is straining and seems to not have that awesome kick of power it had before the spill)
3) The turn signal lights on the head stay on, but flash dimmer when the switch is activated) - Turn signals operate.
4) The neutral light stays on - even when it is in gear and running down the road.
5) Feels like the brake is on a bit (doesn't coast well) even though it seems fairly easy to spin the back wheel with the bike on the stand, in neutral. Shaft drive binding? - I don't think so, but... I haven't gotten anyone to sit on the back so I can spin the front wheel, but it should be fine - I will check that soon.
6) There seems to be some rattling coming from the right side crank cover - (unknown zone, to me)

*My thinking is that the acceleration is being hampered by something electronic because of the obvious lights staying on - I am going to pull the headlight and look at all the wires for bare or mis connected - there were a few that were pinched and cut as a result of the dump. I am also leaning toward the electronic, because the symptom of acceleration did NOT change when I replaced the carbs with ones I almost completely disassembled and cleaned out (did not have this symptom with the old cabs, AT ALL) AND this whole lights staying on has to be causing some sort of electronic interference. AND isn't timing/advance controlled electronically?
Here is what I replaced (some as an upgrade(forks/carbs) and not because of damage).
Front forks and triple trees (got a real clean set - for cheap!)
Turn signal on left
Headlight bucket
Carb set (got a real clean set - for cheap!)

So now it looks very nice, but still not ready to ride.
Could it be that a short (causing the turn head indicator lights to stay on) is affecting something to do with the timing advance?
I really don't want to pull and disassemble the carbs again as I think they are fine, now. I am very mechanical but a bit green when it comes to 4 sync'd carbs/bike timing&advance, etc.

Any of you detectives want to take a crack at it?

Thanks for any help - my son is EAGER!

 

I solved the rolling easily part, at least - front disks were being held on by the replacement lever not disengaging all the way.
Still looking for someone to chime in with a clue to the acceleration issue.
Help?

 

It the Bike fires-up and runs, even a little bit ... it's not an Ignition issue with "Timing"
The Ignition Timing is controlled by the Igniter Box responding to magnetic field signals sent up from the sensors as the Crank Rotor passes over them generating a magnetic field.

The duration of the Rotor passing the Pick-up coils electronically advances the timing.

I'm confident your troubles are primarily due to the Carbs needing to be thoroughly Cleaned and tuned.

The cleanliness of the Carbs, right now, is what is hindering the performance.

You're likely to get right back in business after having the Carbs cleaned.

Fuel Bowls, Jets, Floats, Passages, Emulsion Tubes, Starter Jets, Diaphragm Piston Bores refinished, Both Air Jet Passages flushed and blown-out and the Pilot Mixtures Screws withdrawn and the Pilot Air Passages flushed and blown-out; too.

Sitting around for a few months would be reason enough to have to tackle the job.
Two years virtually guarantees that you need to have them done.

Be sue that whoever does do the Carbs for you is familiar enough with the need to extract and clean the Air Metering Ports of all the Emulsion Tubes.
Some places neglect to provide that service and to have them done without having the Emulsion Tubes cleaned is a waste of money.

 

When I spoke of the tons of posts I read, Yours was certainly a majority - You sound like you know your S***!
Ok, I hear you, I DO, but isn't there any remotest possibility that the wiring short (which I will probably tackle tomorrow) is drawing power away from the igniter? Allowing it to run and accelerate but not to REALLY run?
I know the carbs are suspect (and likely THE cause), but I can't help but wonder what the miswire/short could be doing to performance.
As I pulled apart the carbs, to a large degree and sprayed gumout through every orfice, what are the most likely things I missed? I have a pdf file of the manual for the XJ650, but I don't think it goes down to carb rebuild/cleaning.
Thanks much for your help!

 

I gotta go with Rick here, fully electronic ignition is either gonna work or not, don't imagine how it could be what you are hoping it is...I vote carbs but with 15K miles, when was the last time you checked/adjusted valve clearances? No sense beginning to fiddle with carb tuning before doing that...

 

Guys! You could just LIE to me to make me feel better! Ok, I guess not!
Crap and Shucks!...And DARN!
So, ok Thanks Rick and Bigfitz! I will pull the carbs off and start again - What is the most likely thing (s) I missed?
Any comment on #6 ?
6) There seems to be some rattling coming from the right side crank cover - (unknown zone, to me)
Thanks agin!

 

There is nothing in there and none of it moves either.

Seriously though, there is nothing under that cover. It's cosmetic. Behind that cover is the side of the crank case, noises from in there usually aren't good. More likely though you have valve train or clutch noise and it just seems to come from behind that cover.

I'll add a me too on the carbs.

Your issue with the lights sounds like a flaky ground.

 

Run the engine a bit and drain off about 2 OZ and check for shiny mettallic particles- - you could have a timing chain that went WAY slack.
Just an idea. . .

On the carbs, I've had blockage in the TINY pilot emulsion tube, and bowl jets. Make sure you find these. You run a very fine wire thru these, and carb cleaner, and polish your sliders- - look-up "clunk test".

Really, follow along on one of the detailed carb cleaning threads !

 

Valve clearances????

 

I have a 750 with noises that I know are friendly. Mostly valve train and middle gear whine.

You can check the Valve Clearances without too much of a fuss. Its good to have the Book to help you walk through it, but it amounts to setting the Tank aside popping the Cam Cover off, pulling the Left side Crankcase cover off, pulling the Plugs and rotating the Engine by hand until the Cam Lobes are opposite the Vakve Buckets and measuring the gap.

Unless they way out of specs they shouldn't be a distraction, noise wise.

The likely cause for noise would be a Cam Chain with too much slack.
While you have the Cam Cover off, lift the Timing Chain striaght-up off the Guide Bridge between the two Cams.

If the Chain isn't taunt to the Guide, remove the Cam Chain Slack by setting the Cam Chain Tensioner Manually.

That requires you rotate the Engine in the regular direction for a couple of turns, then coming to a gradual stop ... before suddenly reversing the direction to present the slack before the Tensioner which should take-up the slack automatically.

Search: Cam Chain Tensioner in the archives for full details.

 

You Guys are the BEST, but are causing me to confront a lot of work - in my spare time...We all have LOTS of that, don't we?
Ok,
I will follow the posts recommended and will post my findings and eventual success!
The lighting thing is probably another pinched wire or disconnected ground or a miswire I didn't find. Lots of wires behind that messed up headlight bucket!
Thanks again!

 

Hello, Proserviceguy. Any story behind your username? Just curious if it has anything to do with your line of work. Good luck with the carbs. Mike

 

If you still have the OEM Fuse Panel, that's a good place to start eliminating electrical problems.
If you already did that work-around,, you'll have to trace the current along the circuit with a Test Light.

I've had more than a few Lighting issues get solved just by undoing and redoing the Male/Female Bullet connections in the birds nest behind the Headlamp.

The Male Bullet is easily cleaned. The Female end -- not so. But, a rolled-up strip of 400 Sandpaper that fits in those will restore continuity pretty well.

 

A metal ladies fingernail file also works wonders on the female end of the connector! Revlon is my prefered brand.