83 Honda shadow clutch HELP!

Suddenly the clutch will not engage in any gear 1-6 it lurches slightly forward but no-go..no funny noises just slipping really bad? it's almost like the brake is on but i can rev it in any gear? these are hydrolic clutches if that helps......

 

Try changing the seals in the slave cylinder. Can you see any fluid in the master cylinder for the clutch?

 

the fluid was a little low..so i refilled it and when i went back to it again..it was half empty....I didnt see anything dripping...But my other question is this..If the clutch is out will it slip exactly the same in every gear? (lurches a little like it wants to go then nothing) I have no experience with hydrolis clutches...It hadn;t ever slipped before i took a short ride righ tbefore it slipped..it started slipping and just when i got it back inside i couldn't get it to do anything,...so it was pretty sudden..Also i didn't gun the bike or dump the clutch ever.

 

either the slave cylinder is stuck out or the clutch is fried
be careful if something gets unstuck things could get ugly

 

I guess I'm now trying to figure out if the clutch plates would be the only thing that needed to be replaced? Is that what usually gets replaced when a "clutch is fried"??

 

Depends on the condition of the Driven Plates.
If the Friction Plates slip for too long, they cause the Driven Plates to overheat and either "Blue" or warp.

Sometimes,, the Driven Plates are damaged by becoming scored.
You never know until you actually get to look at them in good light.

If they're Blued really badly, that means they've been severely overheated and that process makes them highly susceptible to becoming warped.
Warped Drivers take all the fun out of riding.

The Clutch get a mind of its own and you just can't seem to manage a smooth start any more.

Several aftermarket suppliers of Clutch Parts offer Complete Clutch Replacement Kits that include new Springs and Fasteners.
If the Drivers show any signs of being scorched ... throw-in a whole New Clutch and enjoy peace of mind for another 20,000 miles or so.

 

if you never noticed slipping before, look into the master and slave cylinders closer
sounds like the slave cyl down in the motor isn't retracting
might be something down there or something in the master cyl not letting the pressure release and that holds the clutch disengaged
usually your going to notice slipping long before the clutch goes completely like you decribe

 

Hydraulic Systems are in need of intensive preventative maintenance to remain functional over any long period of time.

The Fluid is highly susceptible to moisture contamination.
Moisture that remains within the system collects on the Bores and forms-up causing the Seals to lose pressure as they passover the build-up and lose the Hydraulic Pressure because the Seal seeped as the foreign matter allowed the pressure to escape.

You might have build-up on the Bores of BOTH Master and Slave Cylinders.

The only way to determine if this is the case it to visually inspect the Bores for build-up and pitting.

Kits will readily be available for rebuilding both Cylinders.
Removal of the build-up will require some work.

Heating the build-up is quick and efficient.
The build-up becomes a dust when exposed to the flame of a Propane Torch.
After you clear-out any Build-up; you'll need to shine the Inside Diameters of the Bores.

There are some Hones small enough to do the job.
But, 800 Grit Finishing Paper taped and wound tightly on to a fiberglass rod and chucked into the drill will do just as nicely.

 

I replaced the friction disks last week there were several that were worn smooth. I buffed up the metal plates (all still has the dimples and weren't warped) and put the friction disks in. works great now without any slipping. I realized a clutch is one of the easiest things i've done on bikes so far.

 

What did you do for a Gasket?
Make your own or reuse the old one?

 

I re used the old gasket...wasn't ripped and holds fine..