Oil sump drain plug.

Where is it? Can someone please post a pic? Is it the same plug as the bolt for the filter? 82 XJ750J. Thanks.

 

It's located just below the filter bolt and a little further back.

 

and it should be the same size bolt as the filter cover bolt unless it has been changed.
also anyone have an extra one of these, mines about toasted from slipped wrenches.

 

Interesting -- mine is indeed bigger, if memory serves.

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Oil Filler and Oil Drain Ports Plugs or Bolt.

PLEASE!: always use anti-seize compound on the threads when installing any of these bolts!

NOTE and commentary: I highly recommend the use of the magnetic style drain plugs in both the crankcase oil pan and the final drive drain holes. It's an added measure of safety to trap metallic particles and keep them from circulating suspended in the oil.

The various magnetic drain plugs listed below have the following characteristics that should be considered when deciding on which one to purchase:

HCP1656 aftermarket plug---has the strongest magnetic pull of them all, but has the smallest hex head size of the bunch (14mm). Use anti-seize on the threads before installing, and do not over-torque it (31 ft-lbs is the factory spec for use as an engine oil drain plug, and 16 ft-lb as a final drive drain) and this should not be a problem.

HCP1472 oem magnetic plug----magnetic pull is "okay", but not anywhere as strong as the HCP1656 plug above. However, this drain plug does have a 9mm extended "probe" or tip which is the magnetized part, and thus it would extended further into the oil flow than any of the other drain plugs listed. This plug has a large 17mm hex head.

HCP1654 aftermarket plug---very weak magnetic pull. Has an extra-large 19mm head.

HCP1477 oem non-mag plug---obviously, no magnetic pull at all. On the plus side, it has the large 17mm head, and it's the least expensive of the bunch.


HCP1477 OEM Oil Drain Plug/Bolt, 17mm head. This bolt is NOT magnetic. Crush washer HCP1475 must be ordered separate. Fits:

- all XJ550, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models oil pan drain port

- all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900RK models final drive FILLER port

- all XJ650 (except 1983 650 Turbo), all XJ700, XJ750, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models final drive DRAIN port

- all XJ1100 middle gear drive drain port.

Each:
$ 4.50


HCP1472 OEM Oil Drain Plug/Bolt, 17mm head. This bolt IS magnetic, and has a central, removable "binding screw" through the center of the head (used for installation of a temperature probe at the dealership). 9mm extended magnetic tip probe helps catch metal particles in the oil. Crush washer HCP1475 must be ordered separate. Although I have no way of measuring the magnetic field, it appears that the magnetic pull of this drain plug is quite a bit weaker than of the HCP1656 aftermarket magnetic drain plug listed below. Fits:

- all XJ550, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models
oil pan drain port

- all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900RK models final drive FILLER port

- all XJ650 (except 1983 650 Turbo), all XJ700, XJ750, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models final drive DRAIN port.
- all XJ1100 middle gear drive drain port

Each:
$ 17.50


HCP1654 Replacement Oil Drain Plug/Bolt, large 19mm head. This bolt IS magnetic. It comes with the crush washer. Bright cad plated.
Fits:
- all XJ550, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models oil pan drain port

- all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900RK models final drive FILLER port

- all XJ650 (except 1983 650 Turbo), all XJ700, XJ750, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models final drive DRAIN port

- all XJ1100 middle gear drive drain port

Each: $ 13.95


HCP1656 Replacement MAGNETIC Oil Drain Plug/Bolt, small 14mm head. This bolt IS magnetic and helps to catch all the junk floating around in your oil, which is a really great idea. It comes with the crush washer. Although I have no way of measuring the absolute magnetic strength of any of these bolts, the magnetic pull of this drain plug is quite a bit stronger than either the HCP1472 or HCP1654 magnetic drain plugs. Fits:

- all XJ550, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models oil pan drain port

- all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900RK models final drive FILLER port

- all XJ650 (except 1983 650 Turbo), all XJ700, XJ750, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models final drive DRAIN port

- all middle gear drive drain port

Each:
$ 13.95



dp3) OEM drain plug Crush Washer----should be replaced every time you change your oil!

HCP1475 oil pan drain, final drive filler, and final drive drain bolt Crush Washer, fits all XJ550, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models; is also is used for XJ1100 (only) middle gear drain bolt. Each:
$ 1.00

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Lastly, how'd you manage to get a wrench way the hell back there? I've always used a ratchet and an extension or two.

 

Samlives- - You seem determined to mess with it. The bolt is very weak, and may be fused-stuck-bound up-buggered , is there an Australian term for "bend over" ??

It could loosen up easily, or it could snap off. I haven't messed with mine, and you've been warned. Good luck, and tell us how it went!

 

Sam;

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No, not the same size. The original filter bolt had a 12mm head and I believe the drain plug is 19mm. It is just below the filter housing, facing forward with a slight down angle. After marked filter bolt is 15 or 17 mm.

 

Sorry...It won't happen again

 

I couldn't find it so I didn't bother with it in the end...sounds like a good thing ...Is it possible that my model doesn't actually have one? 1980 650 motor in an '81 750 frame.

 

i must have aftermarket bolts then, cause i used a 18mm box end on both of mine, not a lot of movement on the drain bolt, but enough to get it loose and spin it out by hand.

 

All XJ series engine have an oil pan drain plug. It's at the very front-and-center of the oil pan (or "sump" as Yamaha calls it) and the oil pan is the large, square finned casting on the very bottom of the engine.

If you don't remove the oil pan drain plug when changing the oil, you'll only be changing about 1/3 of your oil, as the oil filter element housing/cover (the round ribbed thing, front and center at the lower part of the engine, and directly ABOVE the oil pan drain bolt) doesn't hold much of the oil capacity......

 

Oh, alright then. Make me go do something useful, why don't you...

 

Hey Schmuckaholic


I'm not sure if that pic was meant for me or not. I drained the oil from that plug, and changed the oil filter.
I was questioning whether there was another drain plug somewhere under or near the back that I had to also drain (middle gear drain plug)...This is the one I couldn't find.

 

i've always been advised not to remove the middle gear drain plug.

 

Oh, THAT plug. Took me a few tries to find it myself; it's further back still, on the bottom toward the left side, partially hidden by the exhaust system (which you'd have to drop to get full access to it).

I've never bothered trying to pull that one out, and like the man says, conventional wisdom says don't bother with it. Two reasons: 1) there isn't enough oil in the middle gear section to make it worth the bother, and 2) they have this nasty habit of snapping off.

 

Here's what you have to do if you don't change the Oil in the Middle Gear and leave the tender Middle Drain Plug alone:
--> Nothing.

Here's what you have to do if you break the Middle Gear Drain Plug attempting to change the Middle Gear's one-third of a cup of Oil:

-->Remove exhaust system; complete. Remove engine or undo Motor Mounts to position Engine for drilling-out and re-tapping threads. Drill. Sweat. Swear. Curse the day you were born for touching the stupid Plug in the first place. Look for someone to help you. Nobody will. It's a thankless job from beginning to end and all because you read someplace that you were supposed to change the Middle Gear Oil???

Take a Black Magic Marker and open the Haynes Manual to the Section of the Manual that says that you need to change the Middle Gear Oil.

Black it all out.
Forget about it!
Relax.

 

Rofl, RickComatic I like your delivery. Humorous but factual

 

Thanks.
I just want to get the message out that the Middle Gear Drain is for when you split the cases.
Not for routine Oil Changes.

Somebody will invariably do it anyway and get stung.
Never fails.
Even after a lengthy discussion about the dangers; some guy tried and broke his.

I can only put the "Thin Ice" sign at the pond.
But, someone is going to see for themselves anyway!

 

Oh, good, glad I looked around more. One of the other threads put this stupid idea in my head. Didn't make sense to me either. If that last bit of oil is so important to you, couldn't you just, I don't know, like, tip the bike forward?

 

Well this just bit me too. I actually got the darn plug off, drained the oil and just snugged it up with a 1/4 inch ratchet. Then I read this post. Well after taking the engine out (but with no intent of splitting the cases), I decided to put some anti-seize on the threads and went to torquing it exactly to Hanye's spec: 17.5 ft-lbs using a beam wrench. While I was getting at it I thought, maybe I should only torque it to 15ft-lbs. Didn't get the chance. I didn't get past 11ft-lbs before shearing it off. While trying to drill it for a bolt extractor, the 5/64 inch bit actually turned the screw, so I'm off to get reverse drill bits tomorrow (I didn't even know they exist) to get it out.

This is another case for the don't touch the middle gear plug...don't even look for it. I had all the access I needed, had the engine one it's side, tried to torque it to spec and 2/3's of the way there it shears anyway.

What torque should I torque it to when I get a new one?

 

1.6 m/kg.

 

ic...1.6 m-kg =11.5 ft=lbs...a good 6 less than the Haynes. 10 ft-lbs it is (I don't want to got through this again)!

 

And don't forget the anti-seize.............

 

So, I hadn't seen this thread last time I changed my oil and I - wanting to be thorough - took the middle drain plug out to drain it. It came out fine and went back in fine.

Should I pull it out and put some anti-seize on the threads? Or should I just not worry about it?

 

Anti-seize. And then NEVER look at it again, and you won't have to worry.........

 

Sorry for the jack but does it matter which way the filter cover goes on. Meaning my cover has a tab on the cover and when I put it back on after changing oil I put it on with the tab to the bottom. I never took note on how it was installed before I removed it, only noticed the tab when I was putting it back on.

 

If you are going to place a NEW Middle Gear Drain Plug ... I'd treat that PLUG with a Thread Locking Sealant.

You don't want that damn Plug to be loose and insecure.
You want it IN and OIL TIGHT and Not Leaking.

THIS might be a good case for:
Teflon Wrap (to prevent seizure)
Thread Lock (so it don't vibrate loose)

 

I believe the tab on the housing goes up.
It hits a tab on the motor, this keeps the whole housing from spinning when you tighten it down.

 

ANTOHER GREAT THREAD! THANK YOU ALL. I've been riding around with the socket i beat on my rounded oil filter bolt while I wait for my new one. Too damn scared to take it off!

 

Well I got the plug out with little problem. Note that I had the engine out, and just put anti-seize on the threads, though this makes the bolt hard to drill into as it turns inward. I couldn't find any left handed bits, but a small enough extractor and some patients brought it out.

Rick, are you suggesting the use of both teflon tape and thread lock? or just one or the other?

Also, kinda skimmed over is the fact that the Hayne's manual says 17.5 ft-lbs, more than 50% more than is needed! According to chacal it should be 11.5 ft-lbs, and that's about when my bolt gave out.

 

Factory Manual says 17.5ft/lbs too.
It has been so! wrong before though.

 

One or the other.

 

okay so i need to put antisiez on my oil pan drian bolt? :?:

 

No, what they are saying in this thread is if it ain't broke don't fix it.
If the middle drain plug is in the bike leave it alone.