I guess I deserve it, but...

So...
I order a bunch of parts from Chacal. Great deal, great parts, great shipping. I'm very happy. Those arrived Thursday (yesterday). Among other things I ordered braided steel brake lines and a caliper rebuild kit.

Now, and here is where I screwed up, I didn't order a MC from him, I ordered it from partsnmore.com. I didn't pay much attention to the picture, it was too small, and I didn't know what to look for. It seems that partsnmore.com's replacement MC has the outlet on the front face, instead of the side.

Remember when I said I got the braided lines? They don't twist. At all.

I've got a ride next weekend. No brakes, no go.

My options as I see them:
1. Go down to the auto parts store and see if they can install a new fitting on my brake lines, rendering them non-DOT approved, potentially flawed or too short, possibly destroying them. Thats if they even have the fittings I need.

2. Order a MC from Chacal (spending an extra $40 in the process.)

3. Order a MC rebuild kit from Chacal. Not sure if that'll work because its in pretty bad shape.

(2 and 3 would involve returning the MC to partsnmore.com as well as paying whatever restocking fee they have. )

4. Keep my current brake lines and use the new MC. Not sure if that will work..I can SEE my brake lines swell/move when I pull the brake handle.

5. Keep the old MC and swap the lines. As I said, I see the lines swell/move when I hold the brakes, but I'm not sure if thats normal or not.

6. Return the braided lines and get rubber lines.

What would you do?

 

Correction to #2, extra $90.

My current plan of action: It seems to me that if I use anything (for testing, etc) I won't be able to return it. So I've got to stick with a plan of action that allows me an escape route that puts the smallest dent in my collage student wallet, as well as has the best chance of getting me back on the road by the 11th.

I don't like option #1, too many failure modes.

#2 has the best chance of success. Everyone raves about his quick shipping, but the one time I depend on it, it won't happen. The problem is that it is an additional $165 out of pocket ($5 shipping), and I have to wait to get a refund from partsnmore. With a net cost increase of about $90. Due to the cost I don't think its an option.

#3 As I said, the MC is in pretty bad shape, the viewglass is mostly epoxy, the handle is bent, etc. LOTS of white crap...

#4 If I try it and it doesn't work I could (maybe) get a new brake to work. (Chacal, can you help with that?) But I don't think I'll be able to return the MC if I decide to go another route.

#5 If I fail, I can't return the hoses. I'll be forced to buy an oem MC.

#6 ~$80 out of pocket, with a (maybe) $100 refund, net saving of $20, but I loose the braided steel lines (I was looking forward to rock solid brakes).

I wonder if I can find a way to use fittings to 'rotate' the outlet? Thoughts?

 

Is the length okay, and you just need the m/c fitting rotated by "X" degrees? (in other words, if the m/c line length and it's m/c end fitting AS IT CURRENTLY EXISTS was rotated by "x" degrees, would the m/c line that you now have fit onto that forward-outlet m/c? Please pay careful attention to the direction of the bend or "flare angle" of the m/c-end fitting when answering that question!)

If the answer to the above question is "yes", then I should be able to make a modified version of the m/c line for you early next week, but we'll have to have some VERY PRECISE discussions (pix would be better) about how much exactly that fitting will have to be rotated and/or re-bent......

It's the relative aligment (the "clocking") of the distribution joint fitting versus the master cylinder fitting that determines everything with these lines....like you say, "zero twist!".

JD, I'd have to ask that you pay for the new line and additional shipping---which will probably have to be overnight shipping if you want to ride next weekend----but maybe this option would allow you to achieve your desired goal.

Of course, I'll give you a full refund for the return of the oe-style m/c line that you've already received, assuming it's not had fluid in it or been damaged in any way.

I assume that you ordered the "small" master cylinder from partsnmore? (they offer both a 1/2 and 16mm m/c, I believe).

 

What about choice #6 modified slightly? I may be way off based here but why cant you just keep the braided lines (since you want them and they're cool) buy new rubber lines for now (are they that expensive?) and ride. Sort out the install of the braided lines later...over the winter...whenever

 

What about allowing the union to 'absorb' the 90deg twist? it would shift the lower hose to one side, and the union wouldn't be connected to the triple tree (I could fab a bracket to attach it). Thoughts?

 

Chacal, I'll take a look. Let me re-read your post a few times first.

 

I ordered the 13mm MC.
https://www.partsnmore.com/cat_index.ph ... ry=chassis

Part#08-0255

 

kd, the idea of releasing the union fom the triple tree and fabbing a bracket is basically what i did. when i put my aftermarket bars on it was trial and error to find the proper line, and when i did it was about 90 degrees out, i couldnt twist it eaither, so i cut the tab off the union, and put a 90 degree bracket onto it and mounted that to the triple tree, works well.

 

Pictures are located at:
http://ecen-tslsrv.ad.okstate.edu/test/daniel/

They are quite large.

They are not yet finished uploading, but close. You can start downloading those that have finished uploading.

Charal, if I mount the MC in exactly the same location as the OE-MC I don't think its long enough, but it is very close. I don't see why I couldn't move the MC 1/2" or so forward.

 

I could put a ruler in the picture of the new MC if that helps.

edit:
Its fun watching the server logs and seeing people download the pictures...