Winterizing a bike

I had a great time shopping around, taking the MSF course, buying a bike and learning to ride this summer. Unfortunately, it is getting to be that time of year and in the next month or two I will be putting the bike up for the winter . I know I need to take the battery out and put it on a charger, but that is all I know. I have heard Deltran chargers are the way to go and that is my plan, but I am a pliable newbie and could be convinced otherwise. What else do I need to do to when I put the bike up for the winter?

 

If it is going to be not used for a while, fuel stabilizer is a good idea. It keeps the gas from going stale. Run the engine with the fuel stabilizer to get it into the carbs. They are available at any auto parts store. I don't think you ned to remove the battery, maybe just disconect it. A trickle charger on the battery will help keep it charged, don't use a standard auto charger it will boil the water from the battery and ruin it. There is not much else to do. Here in NC the weather is good all year for riding so I don't let them sit for long. I can ride as long as it is not much colder than 30.

 

I'm in the same boat as xjasfirst, with having to "Winterize" my bike and it being the first time I've done this.

I searched the forum and was able to find several "Winterizing" discussions. The general gist I found is as follows:

Required:

• 1 - Add a fuel stabilizer to your gas and top off the tank.
  2 - Either:
  • A - Drain carbs and spray carb cleaner into them.
    B - Run bike long enough to get stabilized fuel well into the carbs and cylinders.
  3- Pull battery, move it inside and put it on a battery tender/trickle charger.

Optional (in no particular order):

• 1 - Buy a motorcycle cover for the bike to protect it from bumps and dings and to keep it from getting unnecessarily dirty.
  2 - Wash and dry the bike thoroughly, including treating all the rubber and plastic parts with something like Armor All.
  3 - Change the oil when going into storage and again when coming out of storage.
  4 - Remove spark plugs and add either a small amount of transmission fluid or Marvel Mystery Oil to keep the pistons from sticking. Replace plugs once completed. (aka - "Fogging the cylinders")
  5 - Plug or cap the ends of the exhaust pipes to keep moisture out. It helps prevent the pipes from rusting from the inside and also keeps bugs, dirt and other small critters out.
  6 - Coat fork and other rubber suspension seals with Petroleum Jelly (Vaseline or similar product).
  7 - Coat exposed fork and compression tubes with Petroleum Jelly or automotive grease.
  8 - Remove and store the seat indoors to prevent the cold air from degrading the foam.
  9 - Overinflate the tires to prevent the development of a flat spots where the tires contact the ground.

Would anyone want to add anything to that list?


What are some good recommendations for fuel stabilizers? I've seen Sta-Bil and SeaFoam recommended for this. Also, how much should be used?

Any recommendations for economically priced battery tenders/trickle chargers for a single bike battery?

 

sounds like it would be much easier just to add SEAFOAM to the gas and
start the bike and let it warm up once a week.

 

kyrrinstoch,

Thanks. That looks like a pretty complete list. I am not sure of a few things. Maybe you or someone else could clear them up for me.

I have no convenient place indoors to store the battery and trickle charger. How much life will I be sucking out of the battery if I leave it in a garage that gets down into the 30's for a few days every year? The garage is usually 40s-50s through the winter, but we usually get some very cold weather once or twice a year and the garage isn't heated. (as a side note, I bought my XJ from the original owner and this will be its first winter not spent in a heated garage!)

Why change the oil now and again in the spring? I was planning on changing it in the spring only.

If I coat suspension seals with Vaseline, do I have to clean it off in the spring? If so, what is safe for the seals?

 

that battery will be fine in the garage, 30 isn't cold for a battery
top off the water
Kyrrinstoch has some good points there but i don't put mine that far away
winter is the time to do anything that might keep you from riding when it gets nice out
i don't want to unmothball it in march if a nice day comes along
i've put 2 stroke oil in the gas for winter for years and never had a problem come spring
if you do it right it should come out cleaner and run better than when you put it away

 

Aside from treating the gas and charging the battery, what else do you do?

 

As mentioned above: Oil in the cylinders (I use a couple TSP of motor oil and then spin it over, put the plugs back in) make sure bike is clean; spray all corrodable metal down with WD40 or CRC; "fog" the mufflers with oil and jam a rag in them; block the axles off the ground so neither wheel is actually carrying a load (so tires don't flat-spot) and cover it up with an old sheet or some other BREATHABLE cover NOT a plastic tarp. That's all I've ever done to my Norton over the last 34 years.

 

xjasfirst, my understanding of the oil changes is to ensure that everything internal gets coated properly, helping to remove anything that may cause corrosion, and it also removes any "gunk" that may settle over the course of several months of non-use.

As for cleaning off the Vaseline in the spring, I would assume that yes, you would want to do so before riding it. I understood the intended purpose of it was to prevent the seals from drying out. I would think that just carefully wiping it all off with a shop towel or soft paper towels should be fine.


Again, this is just information I gathered from using the Search function on the forum and taking a few minutes to try to put it all together in a single list.

I am curious, would anyone recommend lubricating the clutch and throttle cables and the chain as part of a Winterizing process too? I've seen trapped moisture do nasty things in -20F weather...

 

I generally KEEP my cables well lubricated; I lube them ALL every spring, just in case, to get ready for the season. The chain gets lubed every 300 miles or so, no moisture there. As far as cleaning off the vaseline (or WD40, or whatever preservative you used) I simply wash the bike at wake-up time, using an automotive car-wash soap, NOT dish soap. (Dish soap will strip your wax, car-wash soap won't and does a better job de-greasing.) The reason for double-changing the oil is to ensure that CLEAN oil is in there for storage, and that anything that WAS dissolved into it over the winter gets flushed out right away in the spring. I realize this seems expensive and extreme, but I have personally SEEN the damage that can be caused to a motor by storing a vehicle with used oil in it. The "double oil change" is just cheap insurance.

 

This was discussed a few weeks ago. Much was said, and a great link was posted. I am not able to find it right now, but searching the forums may turn it up for you.

 

Well fellers,

Personally, I don't really do anything out of the ordinary as I am subject to getting my bike out during the winter if a pretty day comes along. That is why they make warm clothing and windshields :wink: .
Should I have the intentions of storing the bike all winter the only thing I would worry about is (possibly) adding some fuel stabilizer and running it until I was sure it got into the carbs, Making sure the tank was topped off and change the oil in the spring if it was due a change. If not, I personally would not change it.
The only thing that would be necessary is making sure the bike is kept dry. Moisture is bad on one sitting. If you store it outside it is not a bad idea to somehow figure a way to keep the tires off the ground to avoid dry-rot and flat spots. If they can not be raised, then put a piece of 2X6 or 2X8 board underneath the tire to avoid contact with the ground.
I have no intention on letting my bike sit throughout the winter. That is something that I just don't understand. Back very early this year a friend bout a Harley Dyna Wide Glide and was going to put it in his truck to take home. :lol: . I wound up riding it in 28 degrees for 128 miles at averaging 70-75 MPH grinning all the way (and no windshield). I did however have to put my fingers underneath the edge of the gas tank to get them warm on occasion.
You either enjoy it when you can or not.

Ride Safely,

Ed

 

I too will keep at least one bike operational until we are in the absolute GRIP of ice and snow. My Norton has EXTERNAL oil lines so it has to go down when it turns cold, but the XJ is like a car motor turned sideways anyway. I won't ride when it's below about 37 degrees (F) simply because of the possibility of discovering a patch of ice...

 

Why do riders take their batteries out of their bike? Leave it in there and just use a float charger to keep it charged up. It's better for the battery too keep it in a cold dry place then to take it in where there is warm moist conditions.
I've been riding for about 35 years and never take the battery out of the bike. I add Sea Foam and run the engine (usually the end-of-the-season-ride) and park it and hook up my charger. Then if it warms up enough during the winter, I can just uncover it and take off.
You don't need to drain the carbs if you add Sea Foam or Stabil to the gas (I recommend Sea Foam)
I do jack up the bike to keep the weight off the suspension, but that's just me. It's not really that neccessary.