Custom Fiber Glass Parts

Does anyone here know how to make fiberglass parts. Im looking to make some side covers for my bike...and i just need to know how to start off.

 

I've never made "side covers" 4 a bike before but... I've made custom FG speaker pods n trunk sub enclosures.

Basicly, U have 2 get a template made out. Make a structure/base out of MDF or whateva u like. Lay some fabric over it. Then lay the FG.

I hope that gets u started!?!

KAOS

 

ok a question i've always had about fiberglass stuff in general is do you use the material at the parts store or are the speakerboxes and things made with something else?

 

The same FG n resin is all the same 4 any "project". N where u buy it doesn't make a diffirence...

I hope I understood ur question!?! N answered it right!?!

KAOS

 

Foam and glass

Homemade fairing with glass

Edit fixed linkages

 

spinalator: Ur 2nd link is "broken up"...

 

fixed, thanks.

 

Anytime :wink: Cool! :twisted:

 

if you want to make stock type side covers that use the stock mounting locations i suggest molding rubber and casting resin

 

Well I was actually going to make like a fairing for the sides of the bike...I figured I would just cut out a piece of cardboard to what I would like it to be...and then use the spray on foam....shape it up. Take some fiberglass mat, and some gel resin, and make my self a fairing..

 

no well i've only seen fiberglass material in like the white though its probably clear really and just looks white from layering... but i've seen custom speakerboxes made on tv and there material looks different and it's black. i don't think carbon fiber would be necessary for that so i'm wondering if it was something else

 

Most likely they did use carbon fiber.

 

No, they use something like felt, or cloth, that pulls in any direction, and it's cheap. The "old school" Ed Roth method is do it in drywall plaster, grease it, then 'glass it, then major clean-up and shaping.

You can use cardboard and duct tape for your "buck"

 

the material you are talking about is fleece.

 

i do a lot of fiberglass
your talking about fleece or spandex
spandex is the best in my opinion for keeping pieces thin and light but strong

use small wood pieces to mak a frqame and stretch your material
the key is sanding and spreading everything as smooth as possible

 

Im too broke for wood man....what about card board or something else.....I'll find someone who can sell me some spandex....I have resin jelly...Fiberglass cloth....what else do I need..

 

Paper Mache'

You can make a nice form out of Papar Mache' and you dont need a Form Release Agent to get the Form out of the Glassed-up mesh when its time to do so.

You can actually make some nice forms using Paper Mache' .
All you have to do to change the form is relay some starched, wet paper on the form.

When the Paper Mache' form is dry ... Blow-on a coat of clear and you can keep it from absorbing the Fiberglass resin.

 

you can make a prototype/plug out of anything as long as it isnt styrene based.... even if it is styrene you just cover it in latex paint... tell me what you are trying to make and ill try and give you some ideas. Oh yeah, as far as fleece verses spandex, fleece will be MUCH stronger because its thicker and soaks up more resin, spandex however will be easier to use to make smooth swoopy curves with. You dont necessarily need to make everything perfectly smooth to start with... thats what they make filler primer for, which you should use anyway to get a smooth part

hope i can help some...

 

Well....I want to make a small under seat dill that will be like a tail eliminator, where I'll put my brake light in it. Also wanted to make some side panels for the frame....not something to large....but something that would be sweet on the bike.

 

ok....yeah man...I need the basics...that's pretty difficult.

 

Good pointe.
If you did the chicken-wiere paper mache thing though, then you wouldn't even need to get into the whole do-your-own-fiberglass thing.

 

or an easier way... cover the sides of the bike with plastic and then spray good stuff foam all over it and then cut it down to the shape you want... you can then put body filler on it. THEN cover it in a few coats of latex paint and its like putting a big rubber glove on the peice

 

so cardboard wont work....

 

cardboard will work... it will just be harder to make complex shapes.... you can use anything you want to make a plug/prototype

 

WOW! Alot of "unnecessary"(spl? I'm drinking ) info here! But then again "necessary" info!!! Go figure :wink: :twisted: ...

Basicly, All u have 2 do is:

"Make a mold with whateva u want(we made our suggestions... All is "correct") Then make ur part! Its as easy as that! FG is 1 of the "most" easy materials 2 work with. U can't F' it up.... N if u do!?! U can make it better in some way or another....

True guys!?! :wink:

KAOS

 

yeah, most of the discusion here is what to make your plug out of. Like i keep saying you can use just about anything, some things are just easier than others. Just start building what you want with what you have and dont stop till it looks how you want it.

 

KAOS, perhaps you should consider refraining from surfing while intoxicated.

 

LOL :lol: Now how did u "take" that last comment Marko!?! I wasn't bein' an ass or anything!

 

I think that should be a new XJ T Shirt or something!

 

Cool! As long as I get my "royalties" from it... :wink: 8)

 

lol....I get your "royalties". My Thread...lol just kidding...Guys. Im going to use card board and spray foam to make my molds....How do I make the cardboard keep it's form after I bend it to fit a particular part or shape. I also have thought about using chicken wire...like someone said if this doesn't work...can anyone give me pointers on that.

 

if you have got a part to copy, just take a squeeze off it using plaster of paris, you then have a perfect mould.

 

cardboard is really only good for long flat areas imo.... maybe use tape to hold it or something?

 

Duct-tape is magic. Holds curves, etcetera. Between that and cardboard, you should be able to make any shape you can think of. However, I am not too well versed on fiberglass, so I don't know if it is a viable solution.

 

You can always do the Old Hot-Rod Method.

Fill all the Voids behind the piece with cardboard, newspaper and shaped brown lunch-bags filled with paper.

Lay-over a double layer of screen-door screen.
Mold the screen and cut lines to help your angles not bunch with tin snips.
Pop rivet the screen-door form using the washers so the rivets don't pull-out.

Make a rough-out form as close to what you are looking for then lay-on some fiberglass resin.
While the resin is still "Workable" use a section of broomstick that you have carved and sanded to have a "Paddle-end" which must be sanded smooth enough to glide behind the screen.

Shape, as best as you can, the bodywork you are fabricating as the resin begins to cure.
Once it resist being formed ... let it cure.
DON'T form any "High-spots"

Once you have a hardened footing for the shape you are fabricating ...
Build upon it using MarGlas Filler.
Have a Stanley Sure-Form "Cheese-grater" Tool ready to do some serious body stylind as the MarGlas remains workable for the Sure-Form Tool to remove the high spots that your spreader leaves while laying-on the MarGlas

Once the MarGlas Hardens-up ... you sanding-block the shape of your design ... roughing-out the angles and contours and getting it ready for becoming a finished part.

Use further applications of MarGlas to fill low spots and built up contours.
Cut the MarGlas with the Sure-Form before it fully cures.
After it hardens, use a sander with 80 Grit to bring-out the finished form, contours and angles.

Use an Angle Grinder to make your edges.
Switch-over to Bondo and sculpt the piece to the exact form in your minds eye.
Sand, sand, sand, sand and more sanding until you have achieved the surface you plan on putting a finishing touch on.

Do all the steps you'd normally do to prepair a section for priming and painting.
Finish it up!

Chopped, channeled, sectioned, rolled and pleated Older than the Hills method of doing a custom section to your Hot-Rod.

(If you want air scoops ... I don't know what you can do. Back in the day we'd cut them out of Beer Cans. Today, you don't get the quality can that took the Can Opener on your keychain to open. You get these flimsy aluminum cans you can't even cut open for mixing a little bit of paint.)

 

I have a styrofoam skull that I want to use somehow and turn it into a headlight. What would you guys recomend. I know I can't use it directly on the bike, but I figure I could use it as a mold. What do you fabrication guys think would be the best way to do that? I could then cut out the eyes and use some cheap walmart driving lights for the lights, so whatever I do probably needs to be fairly heat resistant. Any ideas and help would be appreciated??

 

Use AutoBody Glazing Putty to seal the surface area of the Styrofoam.
Glazing Putty is easily sanded.
After the Glazing Putty has cured; sand the surface to be Molded with great care and precision.

Once you have the Styrofoam prepared to make an impression; spray it with a couple of coats of Primer.
Let the Primer dry.
Spray Clear over the Primer
Several Coats
Let completely dry

Buy enough Plaster of Paris to accept the Clearcoated Form
Mix the Plaster
Prep the Form with Silicone Spray so it will RELEASE from the Plaster.

Set the Mold in the Plaster.
Let Plaster Dry for 48-Hours
Remove Mold from Plaster impression
Prep Impression with Release Agent (Silicone)

Use a Fiberglass Body Repair Kit to Cover the Impression
Several Layers.
Let Dry
Remove
Use Form a foundation for Filler and Finishing

Like that!
Several layers.

 

You can make the form from anything, wood, wax, cardboard, foam, anything. Then use the method Rick outlines above to make a mold, and bingo. If you need to make a multi-part mold because of complex curves or "undercuts" you can buy sheet wax from a candle supply house and make a "dam" to build one half the mold, remove the dam, spray that side with release, and make the other side of the mold. Drill the holes you will use to screw the halves together with before you pop the molds off the form.

 

Thanks for the good info!!

 

rick i am sorry.
But if you are using a foam skull DO NOT put glazing putty on it. The resin in the putty will eat up that styrene and turn it into a molten mess. All you need to do is cover the skull in latex paint. Use 4or 5 layers to be sure its sealed. If you do not seal the foam and resin touches it your plug will be ruined. After its all sealed up paint resin all over it and then start puting very small peices of fiberglass on it. The smaller the peices the easier it will be to copy small tight curves and shapes. Then blot on some more resin until the fiberglass is soaked and clear (when you blot the resin use pressured downward strokes to try and force out any and all air bubbles). Give this time to dry (overnight) and then carefully pull off the formed fiberglass.

Also, if you want the removal to be easier you can spray your sealed part with conola cooking spray and then things will seperate much easier.

so yeah, can i have a custom title that says composite king or something? lol :roll:

 

on a side note... if you want to use the entire skull you will need to do it in 2 parts. If you are interested i can post how to do that also

 

I do want to use the entire skull shape, so I imagine I would have to do it into two parts. Please post any and all info willing. One can't get too much education...

 

to make a 2part mold you need to split the shape in half. For what you are doing i would split it so the front of the skull is one half and the back of the skull the other. To do this you need:

chip board-like found on the backs of tablets and stuff
modeling clay
scissors
super glue

First seal the part with latex house paint as mentioned in my previous post

The chip board you are going to use to make a flange, this must go around the part and split it into two sections. Trim the chip board so it is close but it does not have to be perfect. You are bisecting the part with the chip board.

After your flange is cut use the super glue to hold it to your latex painted part, you dont need alot just enough to hold it in place while you trim it out with the clay.

As i just said you are going to put clay on the edge of your flange. Take a very small peice of clay and roll it between your fingers to make a rope. Lay this in the corner that your flange and part make and spread it with your finger. You are trying to take the sharp angle and make it more of a curve so the fiberglass can lay in it. Only do this on one side.

Next spray your part with mold release (you can use conola cooking spray). Then start setting up your part

while you are working with the fiberglass remember these things
use small peices of fiberglass
Air bubbles are bad, make sure you get them out
dont forget the hardener
make sure you use the correct amount of hardener
let your fiberglass dry over night, you can use heat to help it

After your first layup is all dry:
very very carfully take off the flange you made (DO NOT REMOVE THE FIBERGLASS FROM THE PART)
After the flange is off use some more of your clay to soften the edge of the fiberglass and your part
Spray the un fiberglassed side with release and glass it up.
Now you should be able to remove both halves and trim them up for your brand new part.

sorry if things arent exactly clear, i am in a bit of a hurry. If you have any questions just ask

 

to make a 2part mold you need to split the shape in half. For what you are doing i would split it so the front of the skull is one half and the back of the skull the other. To do this you need:

chip board-like found on the backs of tablets and stuff
modeling clay
scissors
super glue

First seal the part with latex house paint as mentioned in my previous post

The chip board you are going to use to make a flange, this must go around the part and split it into two sections. Trim the chip board so it is close but it does not have to be perfect. You are bisecting the part with the chip board.

After your flange is cut use the super glue to hold it to your latex painted part, you dont need alot just enough to hold it in place while you trim it out with the clay.

As i just said you are going to put clay on the edge of your flange. Take a very small peice of clay and roll it between your fingers to make a rope. Lay this in the corner that your flange and part make and spread it with your finger. You are trying to take the sharp angle and make it more of a curve so the fiberglass can lay in it. Only do this on one side.

Next spray your part with mold release (you can use conola cooking spray). Then start setting up your part

while you are working with the fiberglass remember these things
use small peices of fiberglass
Air bubbles are bad, make sure you get them out
dont forget the hardener
make sure you use the correct amount of hardener
let your fiberglass dry over night, you can use heat to help it

After your first layup is all dry:
very very carfully take off the flange you made (DO NOT REMOVE THE FIBERGLASS FROM THE PART)
After the flange is off use some more of your clay to soften the edge of the fiberglass and your part
Spray the un fiberglassed side with release and glass it up.
Now you should be able to remove both halves and trim them up for your brand new part.

sorry if things arent exactly clear, i am in a bit of a hurry. If you have any questions just ask