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Me and My '85 Maxim XJ700

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by creynolds7624, Jul 17, 2006.

  1. creynolds7624

    creynolds7624 New Member

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    Location:
    Northern Utah
    Hey XJ’ers!!

    First-time poster and I have to say that this is a great site for and Ultra-Greenie XJ owner like myself!! I bought my bike about a month and a half ago and what a ride!! This is the first bike I have ever owned and I absolutely love it!!

    I do have a couple of questions that I am hoping I can find answers for from you XJ brainiacs!!

    1 – Ever since I have owned my bike I have had problems with it revving to 5-6K rpm while sitting still. Over the last couple of days I have come to the realization that this happens when the handle bars are turn to the right!! The more the turn the more the rev! Is there somewhere or someone that can help with rerouting the throttle cable to prevent this?

    2 – Also from the beginning I have had starter problems. At first I thought it was the battery but I had it load tested and it checked out okay. So I took the starter apart and cleaned out a ton of carbon junk and put it back together but to no avail. The solenoid would click but no starter action. Then things got weird!! The PO had a bunch of duct tape around the battery cable to the solenoid, but with years of engine heat it had gotten all gooey and sticky so I removed it and put the solenoid back in place. A while later I went to put the seat back on see if maybe it would start and I had no battery at all, no lights, nothing! I felt the battery and it was extremely hot so I promptly unhooked all the cables and it cooled down. I wrapped the cables with some electrical tape and that seemed to do the trick for the heat but my solenoid that had been clicking with every start attempt now makes no sound at all!! Have I fried the solenoid? I know the brushes need replacing too!

    Any sage advice you can provide me on these little quirks would be tremendously appreciated!!!

    BTW - I bought this from my brother-in-law because bought a Harley but I think I got the better end of the deal!!!
     
  2. srinath

    srinath Member

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    Location:
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    5-6 K revving is a tight throttle cable. Set the play in it ... also make sure choke isn't tight/pulling.
    Electrical issues with solenoid ... may not be solenoid. Prolly some other electrical stuff. Lemme think.
    Cool.
    Srinath.
     
  3. FinnogAngela

    FinnogAngela Member

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    Location:
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    Hi and welcome to the site

    Congrats on your new bike - they´re great fun to ride.

    Disassembled and lubed my trottle cable a few days ago (great improvement - much easier "take-off" than before).

    My cable was/is routed through af strip together with a couple of wires (primary coil-leads, I think), behind the right coil and basically following the upper end of the brake line to the throttle grib (there you have an adjuster, you could check - also might wanna check the carb-end for seating correctly in the fixed mount).

    I used this walk-trough from Dvayne Verhey, posted in the xj-owners maillist:

    "There seems to be a bit of confusion between the rubber grip part and the
    inner plastic throttle sleeve that the grip is attached to, so I'll outline
    the whole procedure for you.

    To replace the throttle cable, remove the fuel tank and unhook the carb end
    of the cable from the carbs by pulling up on the outer cable, pushing
    forward so the inner cable slides through the slot in the fixed mount,
    rotating the inner cable forward so the inner cable aligns with the slot in
    the movable arm of the throttle assembly, and shifting the cable sideways to
    extract the round end from it's recess.

    Next, take note of the exact position of the right hand switch housing. You
    may even want to chalk and index line on the bars and housing to aid in
    reassembly. Undo the 2 or 3 (depends on the model -- I'm not sure about the
    700S) Philips head screws on the underside of the switch housing, separating
    it into the two halves. The cable retaining clamp will come off with one of
    those screws. When attempting to remove the screws, use firm pressure and a
    good quality/condition screwdriver -- they may not want to move initially
    and you don't want to chew up the heads. Let the top half gently hang by the
    wires. Rotate the throttle grip so the inner cable and it's recess in the
    sleeve flange are moved to the top. Rotate the throttle back slightly to get
    some slack in the inner cable, lift it out of the slot in the flange, up
    high enough so it can be slid sideways through the slot as you extract that
    end from the recess in the flange.

    The cable should now drop out of the lower half. Take careful note of how it
    is routed. Better yet, route the new cable alongside the old before removal
    to ensure it follows the same path. Mis-routing the cable can cause you
    problems down the road: kinks, binding and the ever-popular sudden burst of
    power if the bars are turned to the right. (File this tip under Don't Ask Me
    How I Know This.) Now is a good time to slide the throttle sleeve off the
    end of the bar, clean off any old grease and dirt and re-lube with a thin
    layer of all-purpose lithium grease, both on the handlebar and in the switch
    housing adjacent to the throttle sleeve's flange. Check for any burrs on
    both the plastic sleeve and the metal bars, dressing lightly with a file if
    necessary.

    Assemble the throttle grip end first by reversing the process. Leave the
    adjuster retracted fully for the moment. Align the switch housing with your
    chalk marks but don't quite fully tighten the screws just yet. Ensure that
    any gap between the two halves is even. Assemble the carb end second,
    inserting the end into the recess, ensuring the inner cable is properly
    located within the slot and then lifting the outer cable high enough to
    clear the fixed mount while the inner cable is slid through that slot.

    Now you can use the adjuster to take up any excess slack in the cable. It's
    a good idea to leave a little slack, say 1/8" or so of throttle rotation
    before the cable starts pulling up on the carbs. That ensures some tolerance
    for handlebar movement. Rotate the throttle fully several times to ensure
    smooth movement and free return. When you are satisfied, reinstall the fuel
    tank and seat yourself on the bike. Ensure the switch housing is properly
    positioned at the right angle then tighten the Philips head screws.

    tafn

    dv"


    Electrical issues I´d better not comment on :)
     
  4. creynolds7624

    creynolds7624 New Member

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    Thanks a bunch for the advice guys!! Finno, I think I will try the lube to start with, it sounds a little less involved than the alternative!! Does anyone know where I might find a diagram of the throttle cable routing? I'd like to see mine is positioned correctly. Thanks again!!
     
  5. hessenr00ts

    hessenr00ts Member

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    I took a quick poke through my Haynes manual and found no diagrams. Out of curiosity I checked how it's routed on my 750max and it's fairly basic.

    From the top of your carbs the cable curves slightly up underneath the center of the tank (same path the other cables off the front of the bike follow), comes up behind the headlight and curves up to attach to the right control.

    The 750maxim has a large bracket for mounting the abysmally grotesque rectangle of a headlight in place, on my bike the cable curves through that bracket the heads to the right control. I'm unsure if your bike has the same sort of headlight. It's really just a straight shot up under the tank to the front of the bike.

    I'd don't have an official diagram but through the wonder of digital imagery, I've made something of a rudementary one. Does it help??? Maybe...maybe not.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Hvnbnd

    Hvnbnd Active Member

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    Location:
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    creynolds7624
    I FOUND THAT SOMEONE HAD USED A TYWRAP (ZIPTIE) ON MY THROTTLE CABLE (BEFORE I GOT THE BIKE) WHICH CAUSED IT TO REV EVERY TIME I TURNED THE HANDLEBARS TO THE FAR RIGHT. YOU MIGHT LOOK FOR AN POINT THAT YOUR CABLE IS BEING BOUND
     
  7. creynolds7624

    creynolds7624 New Member

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    Thanks again guys!! Especially the pics hessenr00ts they do help a little. My bike is a little different but it give me a good place to start. I have to agree with you on the "abysmally grotesque rectangle of a headlight". I'll try and post some pics of mine in the next day or so! I'll check for that binding too Hvndbnd!!
     
  8. hessenr00ts

    hessenr00ts Member

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    I'm on the hunt for a 7" round headlamp to replace that boxy POS thats currently on there. I found a really sharp looking duel 4" bulb mount but I have plans for a fairing that involve a 7" round.

    One more thing for my part hunting list...
     

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