I'm Taking the Plunge...and I'm scared!!

I just decided to go a little further this year and actually clean the carbs myself. So, this morning I got up, went down to the garage and took the carbs offf my 400 xs. As I drained the bowls, I also went one more step and unscrewed them. That's when I froze. The step by steps that I have from previous threads are well written....but it still seems a little technical. This is going to sound stupid, but can you clean the carbs enough without taking them apart. I'm guessing no, but there may be a chance ..right?
Anyway, if I'm stuck doing them there's no better way to learn then dive in i guess. If there are any quick tips or easier ways to clean these old mikunis, I'd appreciate hearing them.
Cheers Mac

 

Do 1 at a time and use the other for reference as needed. You will have to take them all the way apart eventually, so it might as well be now. Relax, take your time, and don't cut corners. If done properly, it only takes 1 time to get it right. After you finish, you will wonder what you were worried about. You can do this! Let us know how much better your bike runs when you are finished.

 

You can clean them without "breaking the rack" but you will be skipping throttle shaft seals,and 2 fuel rail O rings. The plus side is you don't have to re-sync. (If they were in sync)
All other jets and passages should be able to be accessed and cleaned with the racks together. Again- - take your time and be thorough.
All jets and passages probed and flushed.
Clunk test.
Verify float level on the bench with gasoline.

 

Pictures.

Got a digital camera? Take a snap of every single step you take.

What I did when I first decided to take the carbs apart on my 750 was buy a spare set to practice on first. Not the cheapest way to go about it, but definitely worth the expense, IMNSHO.

 

Don't be afraid, there are many people here that can help you if needed. You'll never learn if you don't do it. All of us here werent born with the knowlege, we had to start somewhere.

 

Bring them over to me , bring beer

Seriously, I plan to do mine again once this holiday stuff is over with.
I could go through it with ya. 1st time is the scariest, after that you can whip 'em off and do it no problem.

And we only have 2 not 4

 

Taking the plunge? Whew, I thought you meant you were getting married....DON'T DO IT!!!
If it only the carbs your talking about, no problem. Just take your time and make sure you keep track of all the parts during disassembly. I put them on a clean shop bench, covered with a large white towel (don't throw it in the laundry when your done, she's not that understanding) Just tear it in half and use it for a shop rag from now on (she won't miss just one)!!

 

the one thing to be very careful with is the towers that hold the float pivot rod
thats the easiest to break and hardest to fix thing in there

 

Thanks guys, This is the most mechanical thing that I've tried so far. I think it's the idea of trying it, and it won't work after. But as you say, you'll never learn unless you try. I think that I might take ZAGHOST up on his offer after XMAS though. It would be a lot better having someone there then just diving in.
But on another note, I am married and that was way scarier then the carbs!!! :lol:
Thanks again, Mac

 

Look at it this way - if it ran before and you don't change any of the settings while your tearing them down and cleaning everything, it should atleast run when you get'm back together, right? I mean it's not like getting married, when EVERYTHING is changed and nothing works afterwards!! Go for it.

 

It was only a few months ago that I was in your shoes.I did everything I could think of to avoid tearing into my carbs,all the while knowing that's exactly what I was going to have to do.I had zero mechanical knowledge before I bought my bike,so I just spent a lot of time here reading posts and how to's until I had a good understanding of what to expect.When it was time to do the deed I just followed Rick's guide to the letter and I had no problems(aside from breaking a jet that was in too tight) Just take your time and make use of the guides here on the site and you'll be amazed at how easy it really is.

 

Yep, now I don't even have to empty my carbs this time, had a hand from mother nature....

Woke up this morning to my bike laying on it's side in the driveway.... gas cap still leaks (why do these things only happen when the tanks is full?)
Had it covered but strng winds pushing against the cove toppled her, a couple of times.... again while trying to clear the snow to move her...

So I will need to touch up the tank a bit in the spring too, chances are the carbs are good and empty, luckily no other damage, except a bit to the side stand, will survey it later.

 

Polock, let's just consider for a moment that hypothetically speaking one of the carb bodies was to fall off the workbench and one of the little float rod towers was to break off. Any suggestions, hypothetically speaking of course, on a way to fix the broken tower? It could be that someone could have tried JB weld with poor results. The next step might be to drill a VERY SMALL hole in the broken off piece and the same size hole in the piece still attached to the carb body and then wire the two pieces together. The pieces might have an irregularly shaped fracture line that would lend itself to this type repair. Or maybe the best thing to do might be to find a carb body or set of carbs off xj forum or ebay. I will let me "friend" know your suggestions. It sure was frustrating the day this might have happened!

Thanks,

Wamaxim

 

Talk to Chacal, get new parts. Don't ghetto-rig something that holds fuel.

I destroyed one of my carb bodies trying to extract a fuel mixture screw. Got the necessary parts and reassembled.

Then I discovered I ordered the wrong part.. Carb 1, when it should have been carb 4, which means the hole was on the wrong side.. Just wanted to fix her up, so I drilled a new hole in the right spot, JB Welded the other hole, and ground out enough room to fit the fuel line. Works perfectly.

So...I guess I'm contradicting myself here.. But despite that, I wouldn't recommend using busted parts.

 

just pulled my carbs for the first time off a working bike.
the pic idea is great, plus a storage system of some type to prevent lost/misplaced parts

"Honey, do you know where my main jet is?"
"Sweetheart, you'll always be MY main jet!...and NO I dont know where ya put it"

Oh, please be careful with anything brass or not replacable.
Floats, diaphrams ect.

 

Wamax,
The tower can be welded.
A new carb body would be best.
Be real careful working the pin out.

 

Thanks Hound! I guess I'm just a farmer at heart. No offense farmer guys.

Why replace something when you can stick together with a little glue or a glob of weld.

I'll buy a carb body! Point taken and thanks guys!

WAMAXIM

 

Thanks Hound! I guess I'm just a farmer at heart. No offense farmer guys.

Why replace something when you can stick together with a little glue or a glob of weld.

I'll buy a carb body! Point taken and thanks guys!

WAMAXIM

 

Wamaxim- - The float rod towers have been successfully fixed using JBWeld by other members. The metal needs to be completely clean, like with Acetone or MEK.

Another way to fix them is with a type of silver solder for aluminum.
This would need to be done by someone with brazing skills.

. . . or just get another carb body.

 

theoretically the stitch method can work well, i believe Rick o matic posted it a long time ago
can a hole be drilled in whats left of the post?
cast aluminum is porous, maybe a little heat to cook it out a little, just a thought
rough it up with?#240 put the pin in it and make sure it's a loose fit before the jbweld sets, i would try to work it with just the pin in both posts till it sets up a full 24 hrs, then maybe another layer of jbweld
always try to catch something you drop with your foot, unless it's a bowling ball
most of the time the pain in your foot will go away before the pain of busting a important part
theoretically speaking

 

DO NOT TAKE THE CARBS OFF THEIR RACK. That is not necessary. When you remove the top of the each carb, be very careful with the paper-thin rubber diaphram seats in the top of the carb body. That's easy to tear and expensive to replace.
You can remove the bottom of the carbs, the float bowls without removing anything else. if you're unsure of yourself, don't dismantle any further. Just get a big spray can of carb cleaner and go to town on the carbs. Shoot the stuff into all the knooks and crannies, but be careful it doesn't come spraying back into your eyes -better to wear safety glasses.
A good cleaning like that should help the bike run better.
If you are determined to take apart the carbs, get the Haynes or Clymer manual for your bike. Get into a job like that without a manual is like entering a foreign country without a map, you might make it but...

 

Yeah see, this is why I ordered a spare set from eBay. So I'd have something to destroy and/or learn from or maybe send off to a pro to be rebuilt while I limp along on my existing set.

 

The carbs are easy to work onnonce you get over the "intimidation factor". There's a total of about 60 individual parts per carb, and fully half of those or more are screws or fasteners or gaskets of some sort.

While the 4 carbs are still fully assembled into their "rack", it's looks like a big blob of complexity; once you take it down to a single carb, it becomes a model of simplicity. There aren't that many "gotch-ya's" besides the typical ones involved with working on 25+ year old mechanical items: stripped fasteners, buggered threads, incorrect tools, lack of organization or patience or preparation & pre-planning. And the lack of those things will tend to bite you whether you do a half-way job or a thorough job.......although if you do things "half-way", then of course you have only half as many chances to get things wrong!

Sushi, you've got the right idea, with a practice carb or two under your belt I'll give fair odds that when you're finished with them, you'll be saying to yourself "geez, I wonder why I thought this was going to be so hard before?"...................

 

Here's a shot of a welded tower from another post.
So it can be done.

 

Thanks Hound. Sorry I have been out of the loop for a bit. Heavy work schedule due to weather, family in for the holidays, weather, espoused unit had her gall bladder removed, weather! It's been a party!

Here's how I see it adding up.

1). I have plenty of time right now to take 1 more stab with JB Weld. This appeals to my penny pinching nature.

2). Have the local weld shop put the heat to it. I wasn't sure if the body was aluminum or pot metal but must be AL. Shop minimum is either $40 or $50. Very fair price as I have had them do some work for me in the past and it has been first rate. I can weld mild steel but stainless and aluminum are WAY beyond my abilities.
3). Watch for carbs on ebay, craigslist, xjbikes. I missed a complete rack of carbs on the local Craigslist for freakin' $75. What a shame.

We have had 2 ft of snow here which is unheard of so the xj has been parked.

I think I will start by cleaning the affected area of the body and the broken tower in acetone, apply an "attaching" layer of jb, waiting 24 hrs and then build up a layer. There is plenty of tooth at the break to position the parts.

I will stay vigilant on the online sources for replacement carb(s). If all else fails I will go to the local weld shop.

Thanks again for your help.

The Silverwing Interstate is good for winter riding(sans snow) but it sorely lacks the thrill of grabbing a hand full of xj throttle and hanging on.

 

Thanks Hound. Sorry I have been out of the loop for a bit. Heavy work schedule due to weather, family in for the holidays, weather, espoused unit had her gall bladder removed, weather! It's been a party!

Here's how I see it adding up.

1). I have plenty of time right now to take 1 more stab with JB Weld. This appeals to my penny pinching nature.

2). Have the local weld shop put the heat to it. I wasn't sure if the body was aluminum or pot metal but must be AL. Shop minimum is either $40 or $50. Very fair price as I have had them do some work for me in the past and it has been first rate. I can weld mild steel but stainless and aluminum are WAY beyond my abilities.
3). Watch for carbs on ebay, craigslist, xjbikes. I missed a complete rack of carbs on the local Craigslist for freakin' $75. What a shame.

We have had 2 ft of snow here which is unheard of so the xj has been parked.

I think I will start by cleaning the affected area of the body and the broken tower in acetone, apply an "attaching" layer of jb, waiting 24 hrs and then build up a layer. There is plenty of tooth at the break to position the parts.

I will stay vigilant on the online sources for replacement carb(s). If all else fails I will go to the local weld shop.

Thanks again for your help.

The Silverwing Interstate is good for winter riding(sans snow) but it sorely lacks the thrill of grabbing a hand full of xj throttle and hanging on.

 

Well it's official, I've taken the plunge, and I'm not scared anymore! Today ZAGHOST showed up with his set of carbs, and he walked me through the whole cleaning process. It was alot easier then I thought it would be. I know everyone said it would be, but your first time is always a little scary, or so I heard :lol: Just wanted to say thanks for the help, especially you ZAGHOST.
Anyhow, now that the carbs are done, I just have to wait until old man winter leaves and I get a chance to see how much difference clean carbs make.

Thanks again, MAC

PS. For all of you guys that said so, youre right, Marriage is alot scarrier!!!

 

All right already!!!!!!!! I finally figured out the best way to fix the broken float tower! (Not like 20 of you guys didn't tell me this was the best way).

I am now the proud owner of a rack of 4 Hitachi carbs fresh from eBay. I got them for $65.50 plus $11.00 shipping so I don't feel too bad. I wanted to make sure I got Hitachi's as that is what I currently have and it seemed like a good idea to have all matching carbs with the exception of one float tower!

I think I will rebuild them per the How To's (being careful to keep them on the bench) and then slip them on the bike as a set and ride off into the sunset with no dead spots over 6000 RPM. Actually I don't think I'll wait for the sunset part as here in Southeaster Washington we are not scheduled to see another sunrise before June. Durn rain.

Chacal, get your calculator warmed up!!!!!!!

Thanks again guys for the suggestions.



WAMAXIM

 

Warmed up, battery fully charged, idling smoothly. Gently blipping a few keys every now and then. Thanks.

 

Hey MAC, no problem ( I know I a bit slow responding, busy)
Hope we get a few warmer days soon..... Got a few more things that need to be done....

 

Threads like this amuse me greatly, since I have what would seem to be the ideal circumstance at first glance.

I have never torn into the carbs on any of my bikes (including the sporties). I have a running 650, a full rack of carbs from the "parts" 650, and a 750 that has a fully assembled rack of carbs.

So one would think that I could just practice on the other two and not worry about the running bike, right? RIGHT?

Well, not really. The rack from the parts bike is all in leetle pieces. I have probably lost some of the pieces in the move, and the PO probably has as well. As for the 750, I'm getting close to test firing that sucker. I don't know if the carbs were set well before, but I don't want to go tearing into them until I've at least tried the engine as-is.

So basically, I have one known good working set about which I know little and two sets of big ol' unknowns. I figure the carbs on the 750 are going to end up being the practice rack, seeing as they ARE probably set up fine and DO probably have tons of gunk in them, seeing as how I think the bike sat in a shed for about 10 years before I got it (via the local bike shop).

One of these days, I'm going to find someone in Missouri WITH an XJ who DOES know something about carbs and get him to learn me some stuff. It's funny how many members here live close to the US/CA border...