Reattaching the Yamaha tank emblem

Okay, this is a really stupid question -- except that I don't want to spend another $30 replacing the replacement tank emblem I just bought.

I have a 1981 XJ650H Maxim. The left tank emblem was cracked at the right screw when I bought it. The right top corner later broke off and the emblem would then swing from the left screw (or at least sag -- being held in place by the left screw). I ordered a replacement Yamaha emblem which arrived today, but when I went to screw it on, I'm not able to get the second screw to "grab" the threads and screw in. It doesn't matter which screw goes in first. If one goes in, the other won't.

If I take the emblem off, the screws will go into the threaded holes fine. When I hold the emblem up to the tank, it looks like the holes in the emblem line up with the screw holes. However, it's as is the screws simply aren't long enough for both of them to reach.

Is there some trick to putting a screw in a hole that I've missed these past 48 years? Anybody know what I'm doing wrong. I'm wondering if the last owner tried "too hard" to get his emblem reattached after painting the tank and that's what caused his emblem to break.

Any thoughts, jabs, ridicule, or actual help will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Rich

 

Hi Rich, it does sound like the holes are slightly out of line, perhaps that put the old badge under stress. If you just start both screws 2 turns & they are binding on the plastic, stop. You may have to ease the holes slightly with a fine rat tail file. Don't force it, feel it.

 

Yeah, that makes sense. I can't get them in two turns each as it is. I'll see what I might be able to do in terms of realignment, then take another stab at it. At first I was wondering if I got shipped the wrong emblem, but it seems to fit like a glove so I guess the mounting plate behind the emblem is the culprit.

Thanks,

Rich

 

I was going to say that, possibly you got a Seca badge instead of a Maxim one.

 

Seca or Maxim won't matter, I used 650 Maxim badges on one of my Seca 550's and NOS 550 Max badges on the other. Even though the curve is slightly different, they pull down just fine (if it's warm where you install them) and a couple 95F days they fit perfect.

You may need to "adjust" the attachment plates. It is acceptable to tweak them out slightly to give you more screw engagement. Not too much, you still want the badge tight against the tank. If you had three hands this would be easy (I had the same issue on my '81.)

 

I had the same issue with a new badge I put on my tank. I finally just used one screw and used double sided trim tape to hold the other end. The badge stays on just fine. A lot of badges and auto trim uses nothing but the tape to hold it on. The trim tape I used is black so the empty screw hole is not noticeable.

 

I have not messed with my badges but do have one cracked as you described. I was wondering if this is curvature issue as Fitz alluded to. Maybe if you heated it lightly it will lay properly?

 

I like the double-sided tape idea. I'm going to try to realign the screw holes first. If that doesn't work, I'm taping it. Great suggestion.

Rich

 

You have to "sneak up" on snugging it down once you get both screws started, and it never ever gets REALLY tight (that's how they crack.) Like I said, neither of my 550 Secas have 550 Seca badges but you cannot tell. I always have the "getting both screws started at the same time" issue too and did need to tweak out the holding plates a bit on one of my bikes.

If you go the 2-sided tape route, you can get actual automotive trim mounting tape at the auto parts. It's the same stuff that's "pre-applied" to stick on badges, I used it to reattach my "Seca 550" (self-adhesive) emblems.

 

Here's an update: I was just in the garage trying to get it onto the tank again. I took the badge completely off, then tried both screws in the threaded holes. Turns out, the previous owner messed up the threads in one of the holes by using an english screw rather than a metric screw. That's one of the reasons it wouldn't catch right. I found the screw he had been using and it worked well enough to handle hole #1. The Yamaha screw wasn't long enough to reach hole #2, though, so I got a slightly longer metric screw and it seems to be working. I've pulled both screws out, sanded the heads slightly, and applied flat black paint to them so they will be less noticeable. Once they're dry, I'll see if I can get it back on. Not sure why the Yamaha screw won't work, but it probably has to do with what the previous owner did to the mounting holes.

Rich

 

One of my first "old metric bike" tool investments was a cheap tap and die set for chasing threads. It's paid for itself already. PO of my second Seca was a real fastener substitution madman.

 

A note for working with plastic and brittle rubber. Warm things up with a heat gun or hair dryer, especially with hoses on hose barbs. Things really co-operate when they're soft.