Why do I keep breaking it.....

My fork toppers were fairly rusted out and the rust had eaten through a good deal of the place were you could set any type of tool to unscrew them.

Long story short, lots of Kroil, some fabricating, a rubber mallet, and a good deal of time and I finally got them out. After doing all this, when I went to put them in, I proceeded to cross-thread one of them. :cry:

Has this happened to anyone else and is there a way to un-cross-thread it? The fork is fine, it's just the topper that got messed up. Or do I need to pm chacal and get some new ones?

 

If you had the right die you could try to straighten the threads.
Dad always said to hand tighten first so you don't cross thread.

 

Only problem with that is I have to be pushing down pretty hard on these toppers to get them back down to the threads in the first place.

I've never used a die before. Please explain.

 

A die is the opposite of a tap.
It would cut threads into a none threaded rod.
There are already threads here so you would be cleaning up the original threads so the "topper" started correctly and didn't cross thread.
You have to be positively sure you start out square or you chance cutting new threads into the stud. (permanent crossthread)
I imagine in this case it would have to come out so you would have room to do a proper job.

I understand you had to apply pressure to get them to start.
My dad really did use to say that to me, it just came to mind when I read your post.
We can't always do things how we like to.

 

A die is a tool that allows you to, in many cases, repair damaged threads on a fastener. It's complimentary tool is a tap.

Tap;


If you think of a threaded hole and a bolt that fits the threaded hole there are two potential areas of thread damage. The hole the bolt fits into and/or the fastener that fits into the hole. If the threads in the hole are damaged they are repaired using a tap. A tap is a long tool made of very hard material with the same diameter and thread count as the damaged hole and has a taper at the lower end to allow one to introduce the tool into the damaged hole. Determine the size and thread pitch(count) using the tools included in the tap and die kit. Cutting oil is often used to assist in the thread cutting task. The tap is placed in a T-Handle holder for torque. Turn the tap into the hole a couple turns and back it out to clear metal particles. Repeat as far into the hole as necessary to clean up the threads and you will have a previously damaged hole that now sports clean threads.

Die:


A die works on the same principle as the tap except instead of cleaning up the threads in the hole it cleans up the threads on the fastener. Same principle, determine the diameter and thread pitch and select the appropriate die. Place the die in a handle , secure the fastener, lube it up and turn the die onto the fastener going forward and reverse as necessary to clear the chips.

If you can swing it it is better to get a set as they are a useful tool and it is handy and less expensive to procure as a set. Sears sells them as do other tool outlets. I have a Craftsman set and a smaller set from Harbor Freight. Both work well.

 

Awesome!

Thanks for the info guys. I'll go try that out and I hope I don't manageto break something else.

 

I had to drill a bolt out of my case housing last night, we broke 3 drill bits, got a punch stuck in the hole trying to knock the last of it out, broke another punch trying to knock the punch loose.

After we finally got all the crap through, chasing through the threads with the appropriate die cleaned em up great. bolts grab the threads just like it was brand new.

The kicker with using a tap/die, as mentioned above, is to make sure you start square with the existing threads, or you end up in permanent cross-thread. Other than that though they're cake to understand/use.

We had to drill my bolt out because it somehow got crossthreaded, either at the factory or by the PO.

 

if it's not real messed up already try putting pressure on it like you did but turn it OUT not in when the threads line up you should feel it snap down a little
stop and try to go in now

 

I couldn't find a die big enough to fix the fork topper, but I did try polock's method and it tightened in and fixed itself.

Got my new fork oil in, the stuff in there was black and at least 10 years old. The PO never changed it. 8O It rides considerably smoother, now I just need to replace the rear shocks.

 

David Attenborough safari voice: "Ahhh, we see the simple thread poised waiting for its unsuspecting prey to fall into its cleverly prepared trap ... "

 

Crossed threads are better then no threads. :lol: :lol:

 

you can also take a triangular file and clean the thread up if external

the sides of most threads are about 30*