Brighter headlight...

Hey;

Anyone ever swap out the headlight on an '82 xj750 for something brighter. I don't mind the squareness, just wondered about any drain on the electrical, etc.. Any info would be appreciated.

 

I learned on one of my other forums to replace the stock bulb with a Silverstar bulb. They are brighter and use the same amount of energy. I did this on both of my bikes and it made a big difference for night riding. You will find them at any auto parts store.
I'm also adding two 35 watt halogen driving lights I found at Walmart. They seem to be plenty bright and won't drain my electrical system like the 55w halogens would.

 

The stock setup on my 81 seca was a 35w/55w high/low sealed beam.... I'm going over to a either a pair of autozone "driving lights" (55w per bulb) or a set a friend gave me of "streetfighter lights" that are both 55w also, low beam being a projector.

If you're ditching the stock light, you've got all it's electrical draw to work with, as well as the little bit of extra available in the first place.

 

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post2
heres two threads about that, i'am going to try and finish up today with the relays and the 100w bulb
going to put a extra switch in to shut the head light off to save the battery
when the key is on and i'am messing with something else
i ditched the small aux light to have the watts for the 90/100 main light

 

Update:
I now have a Silverstar headlight bulb installed, which is a little brigter. I still need to do the realy upgrade (maybe today!) I also have heated grips, 300w stereo amplifier and 35w aux lights. I do not run all my accessories at the same time (OK maybe for a short distance) and have not had any electrical issues. I credit the success to having a volt meter installed, so I can monitor the battery conditon while riding. I notice the needle on the volt meter twitch just a bit when the amp is turned on. SO seeing that, I come to the conclusion that the amp doesn't use much juice. When the heated grips are turned however, the needle does drop a bit (1 volt maybe) so I know they take more juice to run.
So I feel safe in running the amp with the heated grips on now. The aux lights move the needle ever so little, I do not think they will be much of an issue. But, I do not run the lights with the heated grips and amp on. So far, so good. My tail light is an LED, to save on the electrical system also. The signals are still regular filiment bulbs, but being they are only used periodically, that isn't an issue.
Conclusion: After doing the headlight relay mod, I should check the readings with my volt meter and see what it reads at the headlight to see the difference it makes. I am confident the battery will stay in better shape now.

 

So, Gurus, if the voltage drops at all doesn't this mean that the alternator is humping it's little brains out and is unable to generate enough juice to maintain the battery level? If so, then will the constant charge rate of 100% of capacity eventually destroy the alternator/diodes etc.?

 

1 yes, 2 probibally

 

Has anyone ever upgraded to a more powerful stator in the alternator?

 

Not a ad idea. I noticed by looking at the different stators Yamaha uses (or any metric make for that matter) that alot of them look pretty much the same size. One just may get lucky and ind one that puts out more juice that's the same size. The problem I see is they don't give the demensions or hole patterns. I would think if you can take the stock unit and compare it with one at a dealer, you just might be able to replace it with a better one? Who knows?

 

Never heard of ugrating the stator but I have seen people replacing the charge wire with a bigger gauge to help output.

 

If the wire from the stator to the battery were too small, it would get hot. I don't think that's an issue here. The fact that the voltage regulator calls for juice constantly and the stator has to work constantly to keep the battery charged is the problem with alot of accessories running.

 

This is kind of out there a bit but many of the older outboard motors used a starter/generator(alternator?) setup. They are small, less than 3" diameter, are belt driven, and readily available. You would need a battery isolator and a way to drive it off something turning when the bike is moving but if you have to have the goodies it's something to consider. Might even be kind of cool.

Wamaxim

 

finally go something hooked up
4019....original socket, original bulb
4018....new socket hooked to relays, original bulb
4017....new socket hooked to relays, 90/100 bulb
all taken at f3.4 @ 1/90

 

damn, even #2 looks pretty impressive. what gauge wire did you use?

 

I like #2 it would give 73 candle power @ desktop level.

 

#14 from the battery to the relays and #16 from the relays to the light

 

I just got done doing the relay mod to my headlight. Holy crap Batman!!! I just did the highbeam for now to see the difference, and it's bright as sunlight now! After doing the test with my meter, I found there was a significant difference between the stock setup and running it straight off the battery with a relay.
I very seldom even use the low beam (only at night when meeting traffic) so that one can wait for now.
I think I will do this same mod to my Honda too!