Fun with intake manifolds

Well, today was supposed to be the day, everything would go back together, and the tuning could begin


I began the day by deciding to remove the old and cracked intake manifolds. I heeded the advice that the bolts may be a bit difficult, if not impossible to remove. I went slow, with liberal amounts of PB Blaster, and when a bolt seemed stuck, I would give it a quick tap with the hammer. All was going well, number 4 came out, number 3 came out. This is a lot easier than everyone led me to believe, what's all the fuss about 8)


I turned around and went over to the other side of the bike, and my luck turned as well. Number one seemed a lot tighter than 3 and 4, but no matter, I'll use the hammer to "help" things along. The first bolt began to loosen, I got it about 1/8th of an inch out, and it locked up. No problem, I'l tighten it up a bit, and then try to bring it back out. Snap 8O Oh boy, just what I was warned of. I decided a little help from the electric impact gun may loosen the others better than the hammer. What did I have to lose, I already had one snapped off. Turns out the electric impact works 1 out of 3 times!


I guess I should have listened to the advice I read here, I didn't believe the carb cleaning bit until I saw how much dirt came out. You guys haven't steered me wrong so far, but I guess some things must be learned the hard way!


Now I suppose I shall start the hunt for a local welder who can possibly weld me a head on the three studs I have popking out, or if that fails, time for a machine shop. After reading all the horror stories about easy-outs, I think they will stay in the box for this round! I thought about taking a few pics, but decided that graphic images such as these should not be passed around!


I hope everyone else's day went better than mine! Also, if anyone knows a good welder/machine shop in SW Virginia, let me know!

 

If you have enough "stub" sticking out try some Kroil and heat the area AROUND the stud, grab it with vice-grips and see where you're at.

 

I tried to get mine out when I first bought it and ended up twisting the first one off. I just drilled that one out and replaced it with another bolt. That's when I decided to just coat the outside of them with Goop and paint them. They must use loctite on them at the factory.

 

Fitz, where can you buy Kroil? I saw it on Amazon, but am hoping for something local. Also, what do you recommend for heat, I used a little propane torch, but the head seemed to wick the heat away pretty fast, fast enough that I could never get the candle wax trick to work. Maybe I need bigger torch.

Painter, how did the replacement bolt work out? I might try that route temporarily, or at least until I can find somebody localy to try and remove it.

Thanks for the ideas guys, at least it's still too cold out to ride, but spring is fast approaching!

 

I bought my Kroil directly from the manufacturer. I believe ACE Hardware may carry it.

 

You should be able to find Kroil at Ace HArdware. You might also try Tractor Supply Co, auto parts stores. You may want to call around and save some drive time.

Google 'Kroil' and see what they have. If I recall, they were running a special, 2 cans for $12. You're gonna love this stuff!!

 

Well, the closest Ace is a 45 minute drive, I'll try the local auto places and tractor supply after work tomorrow, probably also look at a bigger torch to get a bit more heat on the screws, I think my tiny torch just couldn't muster up enough heat. Two of the screws have 1/8th of an inch sticking out, while the other only has 1/16th or so, It'll be interesting to see what happens!

 

You are going to need a stud extractor with only 1/16-1/8 protruding.

 

I would not wage war with those broken stud remnants.
They're seized.

Right here ... Start a clock.

You can mess with those remnants and try to get them out. Oil, SnakeBite Remedy, Holy Water, Brahma Bull Blood. They're seized.
From where you are right now ... unless you do this right ... you're in a losing Battle.

Pop the Head off.
Bring it to a Machine Shop.
Have the remnants cut-off flush, drilled and re-tapped.
(A relatively easy job for the Machine Shop because the remnants are SOFT Steel.)

-Or-

Have the Machine Shop "Burn" the remnants out on a EDM Machine.
The EDM Machine will --> Remove the steel and leave the aluminum.
It will be like the Cap Screw was never in there.
Run a tap in the Head to "Dress" the Original Threads and you are back to normal.

Editors Note:
It's worth checking with Industrial Trade Schools which might be able to provide you with an alternative source for repairs.

Oh, yea ... the clock!
Run the clock.
Do it right and the job is going to take LESS time than Jerking-around with it.

 

When I busted mine ( just one) I center punched the center and drilled it the same size as the old screw. Then I tapped metric threads and used a new bolt to replace the old one. That's when I decided against going any further with the other ones.
Yes, the only other option is to take off the head and get it machined, as Rickomatic suggested.
As long as I have Goop, I will never have to replace them now.

 

Unless you are a machinist, I would follow Rick's advice.

 

Well, just thought I'd post up a little update. Turns out, I'm going to need a new head, I started drilling, broke off my easy out, got out the sledge hammer and.... :evil:






Nah, just yanking your chains! After seriously debating drilling them out with left handed drill bits and hoping for the best, I decided to take the advice that most seemed to recommend, that and I chickened out on damaging things more myself :lol: I asked a couple of motorcycle guys I know locally, and was recommended to go see a local engine builder/machinst. I stopped by his shop during my lunch break, and chatted up the guy, he told me that back in the day him and his buddies thought pretty highly of the Maxims, they were the bike to have! Turns out he had a few V45s and a couple other smaller bikes. He then told me to bring the engine in next Monday, and it shouldn't be a problem to fit my three little "headaches" into his schedule.


Now begins the fun of tearing the motor out of the bike. My brother and I started looking into that this evening after work, got the wiring all sorted out, got all the engine mount bolts loose, and then realized the thing is next to impossible to remove without taking the oil filter off first. Of course, my oil pan was back at the house, and my stomach was getting the best of me. I'll try again tomorrow after work, and if anyone has any suggestions on the heart removal, please let me know! I'll try to remember the camera too!

 

Yes the oil filter has to go & the bracket that holds the clutch cable.
Remove all the engine mountings except one on the front left & the long bolt at the back ( make sure it can be slid out from the left ) with brothers help, lay the bike on it's right side on some carpet or sim" & lift the bike off the motor.