How low is too low

Hi, new member here. I have a maxim 750 that I bought about 5 years ago and had been in storage until my xs650 got totaled last fall by an idiot on a cellphone. I have learned a ton here without even having to ask a question. Cleaned my carbs and bench synced and got it running pretty decent so far. When I bought it it was only running on 2 to 3 cylinders. Out of frustration from having to take the carbs out so many times I took a sawsall to the air boxes... Added k&n pods and Bub slipons. I have already ordered the larger jets from Chacal who has been very helpful. Through this forum I feel confident that I will have my bike in top running condition before the snow and salty roads are history (Rochester, NY).

Well, on to my topic...I found some 7.25" inch eye to eye shocks at this site

http://www.debrix.com/Items/49-3032?&ca ... 0Sportster

I think should'nt be too much trouble getting it on. I already bought a fender to replace the stock one and I can mount it up high enough to fit the tire clearance. I would also like to find a 16" front wheel that will fit without too many issues to bring the front down too.

Any suggestions or comments will be very much welcomed

Thanks

 

That sounds a little short, how long are your stock shocks?

 

Whoa! Mine are 9" eye 2 eye and just a bit lower and the driveshaft will be unhappy. I sit pretty dang low too.

Seems a bit low... but only way you will know is if you do it....worst case you have to send them back because you bind or such.

 

I didn't know you could get shocks that short. Not a bad deal on them either.
Mine are either 10 or 10 1/2 eye to eye, I can't remember. Take your shocks off, with the bike on a jack, and lower it down to that distance between the mounts. Thats the best way to tell, but like Albuquerque said, I bet the shaft will be in a bind.

Also remember that when the shocks fully compress you will probably be at about 5 1/2", more or less, and then the shaft would really be in a bind.

 

I think that would be way to low, the shaft is going to be a problem, not to mention hitting the fender when the shocks are fully compressed. Like turkey said lower the frame on a jack allowing for the compression and then try the fender on there

 

I have 10.5 " eye to eye shocks on my chopper and whenI have a passenger, we're riding on a hardtail...not very comfy! As well, the tire rubbed through my Signal light stalks, so I had to modify the locations for the signal lights. My bike sits pretty low right now...I don't think
I'd want to sit any lower than what I am at now.

 

Thanks for the input. I have not bought the shocks but I was curious as to how low I could get my bike. I have not yet checked by using a jack to measure how low I can go but that is a good idea and will do that.

I am not really concerned about the fender rubbing because I am not staying with the stock one and can pretty much mount the new one to the height necessary. I hadn't thought about the shaft though and that will be my main concern.

As for bottoming out, and I may be wrong, but I can't see how that would be a problem no matter the length of the shock as long as it is new and made for a much heavier bike.

Anyways, I appreciate the tips.

I was wondering as I was looking at my front end that when I get the rear lowered could I just slide the fork tubes up through the triple tree to lower the front to keep everything level

 

That's pretty darned low for the rear shocks. Yes you can slide the tubes thru the trees.

 

FYI, I scrape on any speed bump I go over.

I lowered the front 1.5" and the rear are 9" solid and you can not go any lower if you plan on having a safe ride.

 

A good rule of thumb is 5" at least of clearance. Any lower and you'll have problems.

 

I had mine at 8 3/4 i would`nt go much lower then that

 

So I guess my question is answered...a 7.25" shock = tooo low. I guess 9" or 10" is a good size shock to go with. didn't think about ground clearance either. Thanks for the input

 

if you go to low the driveshaft will bind up i remember reading one member going rigid and lowering more than 5" i think where the bind came into play