No Spark...At wits end.

Okay...just bought my first xj600 1994 seca II and i believe its a Cali model, but just saying that cuz it has the vacuum canister and according to the book only Cali models have that...if i am wrong and there is another way to know the difference, please let me know...needed some work, so i cleaned the tank and carbs, got new spark plugs, new fuel and vacuum lines, etc. The only thing not fixed is, it doesn't have a key, but has been wired to turn on with a toggle switch.....So, I turn switch on...lights are on, horn works, etc....kill switch to Run, in nuetral, pull clutch, push start....makes usual starting sound. I have checked just about everything i can think of, unless i am doing it wrong with the voltmeter i just bought...and can't find anything that is bad...stator, ignition coils, kill switch, nuetral switch, fuses...still no spark to the plugs....what do i do? I SOOO wanna be riding this by my b-day on the 8th if possible. Please help.

Thanks in advance,
Chris

 

have you checked cdi and rectifier?

 

Check the SIDESTAND RELAY and the STARTER CIRCUIT CUTOFF RELAY

These will stop spark if they are bad, they are usually under the seat.

 

How do you check those with a volt/ohm meter?

I checked the Sidestand switch...where are the relays exactly and how do i check them?

 

Really, it sounds like your homemade bypass is engaging the starter, but not putting the ignition circuit online.

The way to find out is to see if the coils have 12v on the input leads when you engage the starter.

Don't forget to charge the battery or your spark will be too weak to fire the engine.

 

Is there an online wiring diagram for us to look at?

 

i agree with sushi_biker it sounds like when you bypassed it you may have bypassed another circut. not sure how you feel about it bu what i would have done was take the switch apart and just turn it to the on position

i had to do it on a 82 kz750 i used to own cause i lost the key driving down the highway.

 

what do you mean take it apart and turn it to the ON position? Do you mean take the ignition switch apart by breaking it from the top side and turn to ON?

 

alot of the ignition switches separate from the key tumbler. usually from the back side of the assembly. at that point its just a switch, use a screw driver to turn it to the on position and try to start the bike.

You shouldnt have to break anything... not even a sweat when doing this.

 

i should also mention while you have the tumbler separated you should take it to a lock smith and ask for a "Key by number" the printed code on the outside tells them how to re-cut the key. last time i did it it cost me $15 for the first and then $2 per additional copy

 

yeah the cut-key by number usualy works. worst comes to worse you can buy a whole new tumble and switch off ebay. or maybe find one off a doner bike some one is parting out. i think the last time i checked ebay they were 30 dollars with two keys pre cut.

 

look on the underside of the rail where the gas tank is mounted you shoul see at lest 1 of these relays . the other isn't very far from that

 

okay...my ignition is one solid piece with "break off" screws on the bottom that have to bill drilled out to remove it and replaced with hex screws....don't have the tools to do that at the moment....as for the rest of it...the local mechanic said that the relays don't have any wires going to them from the ignition. so he had me check the pick up switch, voltage to the cdi, resistance from the ignition coils.....voltage is good...i have voltage to the wires connected to the ignition coils as well as the correct resistance on the same connectors, but i am not getting a reading on the secondary resistance through the plug boots themselves (by putting red probe in one and black probe in the other boot on the same coil). And I am still not getting spark through the coils. Does this mean that they are bad?....I went to the local dealer and they said that 2 coils going out at the same time is like getting struck by lightning twice at once. He said if everything checks out the way it should it is probably the CDI box *magic box* or whatever you wanna call it thats out. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

You should get some reading on the secondary - around 12k without the caps if I remember right. Most Caps are resistor caps and should add resistance

Try this - Take the plug connectors off - they just screw on. Look at the wires. they could be very corroded. you can try measuring there. If they are corroded you can cut a small length off and reattach the caps - not much because you don't want them too short.you could have a connection issue.

 

You can also hook up a multimeter (use the dwell setting) and see if you are getting any pulsing to the coils. Tap into the coil plugs (the square plastic ones). You should see a pulsing (don't remember what rate you will see but you should see some signs of life). If nothing, your problem is upstream of the coils (TCI, pickup coils, safety cut-out circuit).

 

okay...i tried this and i am getting 30.1 on one and 29.8 (on the 200k ohm setting on my multimeter)....so is that good or bad?

and what does the setting look like for the above test mentioned? not very familiar with multimeters

 

had a similar problem, with an ignition coil giving a false positve (about 27.6 on 200k ohms). if you have a spare coil wire this up a look for a spark, if it doesnt the problem is probably your tdi unit. whilst checking for info i found out that when a coil goes it can take the tdi unit with it. have a look on my thread xj900 ignition trouble, on page two at the moment, there is a link kindly posted by robert which is very useful.

 

That would be around 30k ohms. How do the wires look? The Spec is 11K ohms. If they are corroded you can get a bad reading too.

Reabo's thread is a good read too - depending on your failure it can take the TCI out too unfortunately.

 

well, the wires look clean...also to note...i read reabo's post and went to the link...read the part about the sidestand switch...and when i cut the black wire on the switch, i got fire to my spark plugs....but now it still won't start. :? :x

 

Right..like I said, you bypassed the circuit for the starter, but the sidestand switch kept the power from going to the coils. Now you have power to the coils and you have fire.

Now you have to look at things like fuel. Make sure your battery is FULLY charged. Often, the battery has enough juice to turn the starter but the spark is weak.

Also, since you've been cranking this engine for a while, trying to fix your spark problem, you may have fouled the plugs with fuel. Pull them, inspect and clean if necessary.

 

If you think you fuel fouled them just replace them. I have a thread on this very thing and no matter how I clean those plugs they don't work.