Looking at Barnett Clutches for XJ700X

I am looking at replacing my Clutch with some Barnett parts, I am certain to change out the friction plates and springs. but there are steel drive plates also. Is it necessary to change those out. Here is a link to the setup i am looking at. ( http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/ShoppingCart.asp )
If that doesn't work here is the list of parts from Barnett
( http://www.barnettclutches.com/products ... tch_cc=700 ).

The steel plates tac on an extra $42 bones.
Anyone use the Vesrah Kit? EBC kit?
What's the difference of cork vs. Kevlar?

 

Hello how many miles are on your X? I have a bit north of 24k and the clutch still seem to operate well and smooth. Maybe mine is worn and i just don't know it Lol! when you disassemble if the steel plates are blued from heat or warped check them with a straight edge. Then they should be replaced. What oil you run makes a big difference in clutch performance as well.

 

hi, my bike is just south of 23K. I am trying to minimise down time so i guess just bying the plates would be my best alternative for least amount of down time. th eclutch seams alright i tend to ride her hard and would like better reaction.

 

Oh ya, what weight oil do you use? I use 10/40 synthetic made for bikes. heard of using 20/50 for higher mileage bikes. i we in that range?

 

Oh ya part 2

What do you thinik of the Barnett clutch. Fair deal?

 

The stock or EBC clutchs work just fine. The kevlar material is overkill. The metal drive plates needs replacing only if they are warped or burned (and the two go hand-in-hand). The plates need to inspected for any damage (burned, blued, scars, etc.) and measured with a straightedge to insure that they are within specs for straightness/warpage. If they are within spec, re-use them. If not, replace them.

Although there are also specs for the allowable thickness of the friction discs, basically, if you go into the clutch, you might as well replace them while you're in there.

Here are the proper specs for your model:

700-X all model:
Friction Plate Thickness: minimum 2.8mm (.011")
Drive Plate Warpage: 0.5mm (.002") warpage max.
Spring length: 49.0mm minimum
Pressure plate spring bolt torque: 5.8 ft-lbs.
Clutch hub bolt torque: 50.5 ft-lbs.
Clutch cover bolts torque: 8.7 ft-lbs.

Just remember that the original clutch "system" is designed to work as a whole unit, and in conjunction with all the other parts, and using parts that give a much greater amount of "grab" (reaction) will certainly "perform" better in that regard, but may lead to excess wear or problems in other areas of the system that is not designed to endure such differences......

 

Why would you design something to not take full advantage of go is beyond me and why there would be such available clutch upgrades without upgrades for the other parts. Unless those other parts are able to take the extra torque of said clutch upgrades. Chacal how do you ride? I would like to see if i could get an oppinion from someone who has the same riding style as i do. Who has personal experience with clutch kits, not just Barnett.
Are there shift fork upgrades or some sort of upgrade that will make clutchless shifts better?

 

A large bank account is helpful................

 

How about access to milling equipment. I'm talking the computer aided kind. If any one knows of specs and materials needed to replaced in order to take care of the problem I would much appreciate it. or If anyone has done such a thing. People spend a ton of money on bikes. And this would be a great inexpensive uprade.

 

Oh ya did i mention i took the bike out for the first time this season today and it reminded me of how mutch i love my Maxim X. I took a ride on an 89 V-max that was for sale for 3500 bucks and i still preferr my bike. So that tells you i will pay and work on my bike to make it better. It allready is awesome.

 

At the end of the day, the stock X was pretty well optimized and balanced.

The stock components will perform almost as well as overpriced "performance" parts.

You will spend a boat load of money to "upgrade" and get a tiny improvement in performance (and could easily create other problems)

Many have tried pods and performance exhaust only to find the bike was running better and more ride-able with the stock air-box and exhaust and at the end of the day you just wasted a thousand dollars and countless hours of adjustement.

If you want to spend the money on it, go ahead and replace all the wear parts in the clutch pack along with the springs....but at the end of the day, the improved response you are looking for might come by getting a new $12 clutch cable and a good can of cable-lube.

 

Tito I ran the rotella T 15-40 last year and the bike really seems to like it. But that is a matter of opinion as well I also have heard alot of guys liking the 20-50.

 

barnett clutches are the only thing i run in our race machines, they will hold up to 2 seasons of abuse. do you need something like that in your xj....ill let you decide!

 

AMEN!

 

AMEN!