xj 750seca Question

When I shift my bike into 1st from a stop it leaches a bit forward,I think I read this is normal for shaft drive somewhere on here but just want to check.Thanks in advance.

 

Mine doesn't do it at all...wierd

Doesn't mean it isn't normal though

 

Yep somewhat normal. The tranny gears still turn due to oil friction. So the bike will lurch a little. It can be worse if the clutch is not properly adjusted. i.e. just not disengaging quite enough.

 

Yeah I notice on the center stand if I give her gas in neutral the whell spins a bit,but in neutral no stand it doesn't move at all.Guess the bikes wiehgt keeps it still.

 

Yeah I notice on the center stand if I give her gas in neutral the whell spins a bit,but in neutral no stand it doesn't move at all.Guess the bikes wiehgt keeps it still.

 

a litttle bump is normal, but it shouldnt be moving the bike very much if at all. Make sure your clutch cable is properly adjusted as previously said.

 

the dot is pretty much in line with the little dash on the case.Leavign me to beleive that it is tensioned right.

 

Clunking into first! No way! NO clutch-clunks. It's a superbly engineered machine ... adjust the clutch ... do the whole nine yards.

Disconnect cable-end linkage above clutch cover.
Remove cable end from "Clip-in" on lever connected to throw-out rod.
Lube threads on cable-end adjustment so nuts will spin freely.

Service clutch lever components on handlebar control.
Remove knurl cable-slack adjuster.
Lube adjuster and threads where it inserts.
Replace Knurl.
Screw it ALL THE WAY IN until it seats ... then OUT 2-1/2 turns ... LOCK it with the thumb wheel.

Back downstairs:

Run the 1st Hex-nut on the cable-end adjuster all the way to the top.
Place cable end in the clip.
Place threaded end in holder.

Check that upstairs cable end is IN the knurl adjuster all the way.

Lift clutch throw-out arm removing free-play.
Slide threaded end of cable sheath UP holding throw-out lever firmly up.
Adjust top hex nut on threaded end to hold threaded section in place with NO free play.
Spin lower hex nut up to "Hold" everything in this position.
Check that upstairs clutch cable sheath is secure in adjustment knurl.
(If possible ... have someone hold it in there)

Downstairs:
Pull the slack out of the cable (down) ... to pull the hand-grip clutch lever all the way tight.
Push the threaded adjustment UP tightening sheath. Make any further adjustment to the top hex nut.

You should now have the preliminary adjustment done.
The hand-grip lever is tight to the pivot.
The upstairs cable is tight in the knurl adjustment,
The knurl is adjusted 2.5 turns OUT
The downstairs cable end is secured in mount with adjustment hex nuts holding the throw-out lever tight ... with NO end play.

If you have the preliminary adjustment correct -- Lock-up the downstairs hex-nuts.

Final adjustments.
Road test. Bring the wrenches for downstairs hex nut adjustment.
If the clutch is adjusted so that you have NO 1st gear jump, NO red-light creep, NO finding neutral fight, and sweet Up and Down shifting ... your done!

If the bike jumps into gear. Creeps forward in 1st with the clutch lever pulled all the way to the grip ...
Loosen lower hex.
Tighten upper hex -- 2 flats.

You should now be in XJ-Series Adjusted Clutch Heaven.

Any further fine tuning ... related to weather conditions or cable stretch or expansion of the clutches from riding your bike "like a young farm boy on the family mule heading-out to the circus" can be done at the upstairs cable knurl adjustment.

Hold the applause!!!

 

rICK ARE YOUR BIKES SHAFT DRIVEN?

 

Yes. '83 XJ900RK Shaft drive ... and, '83 XJ750MK (a former Midnight-Max I de-blacked and polished) ... also a shaftie.

 

Nice piece Rick!
Bet your fingers got tired.

 

OK TOMORROW I WILL PRINT OUT AND READ WHAT YOU POSTED IN FRON TOF MY BIKE.Dam capslock.

 

how'd you go?

 

can't seem to get it.Still jumps and clunks when i shift to 1st from neutral.Tried messign with it and then couldn't get it into second so I got her back to wher eit was.May need to pop by shop and see what they think.I thin when I first got it ther ewas a issue witht eh cable so I replaced it with a new one less then a year ago and did the adjustments myself.It was slipping before when the old cable was on it.I guess I could jsut start it with the biek in first.lol

 

Depending on how mechanical you are and how many miles/k's the bikes done , there is also something else which can cause the apparent clutch drag syndrome..

There are two roller bearing [1 small 1 large] behind the clutch drum , after a few k's they will get small flat spots on them and not run smoothly so will impart a slight turning force to the gearbox shaft even though one has pulled in the clutch [as they are direct driven by the motor].

One has to remove the side cover [oil sight one] and then remove the springs then clutch plates then undo the large nut underneath then remove the large inner race then the outer drum [the large gear] and there will be the two rollers [one on the oil pump drive] , one can pull out the thingymabobs also the the rollers run on to check how they feel....

one might need the book.......but tis easy enough i found.