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My Seca Turbo rebuild

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by classicracing, Mar 17, 2009.

  1. classicracing

    classicracing Member

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    Hi guys,
    I'm new here and I may need some help rebuilding my Seca Turbo. I got the bike as a non-runner and have started stripping her down. So far, not so good. Rusty bolts and nuts are the rule but the turbo was waterlogged (though it still spins smoothly). The pipes came out with no problems and the collector is rust free. I've sent the turbo to a specialist for a rebuild but the rest of the bike is seems quite bad.

    Wiring seems to be intact but the p.o has spliced in the alternator wires using household connectors. Perhaps the wiring melted as evidenced by a slightly melted connector (still usable, just). The p.o also wired in a relay for the horn (which I have removed with the corresponding wires).

    Pix soon.
     
  2. classicracing

    classicracing Member

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    [​IMG]

    Here's the swingarm after a sweaty session to extract it. The splines rusted to the shaft but a drift and hammer sorted it. It seem water has got into the cavity (the rubber boot is intact though) and started rusting the 'arm from the inside out. No holes so I'm gonna clean it up, paint it and put plenty of grease to prevent rusting. I was thinking maybe to drill a hole to get water out (in case it ever got back in) or is this a stupid idea?

    Sorry 'bout the photo quality. My Nokia isn't up to the task...
     
  3. classicracing

    classicracing Member

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    [​IMG]

    The engine's out. The cylinder head took two days of cajoling to remove and had plenty of carbon deposits. I suspects the carbs are shot. I can't even get the slides to move, they're stuck fast. The air filter looks like dried icing :?:

    The bores are relatively okay but the middle pistons 2 & 3 have stuck rings. 1 & 2 are okay after cleaning. No scratches or grooves on any of them.

    A friend of mine can do copper gaskets (he does them for turbo cars) and I'm thinking it can be done for the head gasket for my bike as well. I may go a bit thicker on the copper head gasket than standard because...

    [​IMG]

    I've cleaned up the head somewhat and think I need some material skimmed off the top. It looks like the p.o had a go at rebuilding the bike some time in the past and reused the original gaskets (the engine was really oily). What's a good paint for the engine? I have PJ1 Fast Black. I'm hoping that'll work.
     
  4. classicracing

    classicracing Member

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    New finding as I was cleaning the frame:

    [​IMG]

    Are there any differences between an Australian and other variants?
     
  5. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Nice! Would have been great if he used some Romex, too............ :D
     
  6. classicracing

    classicracing Member

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    I was expecting masking tape masquerading as electrical tape but was disappointed :lol:

    Expect a PM very soon, chacal :(
     
  7. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Operators are standing by................. :D
     
  8. rnice

    rnice Member

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    dude, you got some guts tearing into that,
    bless you
     
  9. classicracing

    classicracing Member

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    Call me an optimist :D

    Here's the state of the exhaust ports (but they cleaned up okay).

    [​IMG]

    More worryingly, I found this as I poked around the rust spot near the swingarm pivot. Check your drain holes, guys...soon.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. classicracing

    classicracing Member

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    The frame's all cleaned up and ready for powdercoat. A few things are going to the chrome platers. Can't wait...

    [​IMG]
     

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