Bad day, new probs.

Its a long one guys.. Sorry. I'm just worried. So heres a step by step of what happened


Ok, so i tuned the mixture screws just a bit today. I have a post for what my plugs looked like. I took her out to the drive and started her up. ran good. 1050 rpm. sweetness. Got on and went to get out of the drive and stalled her. I have an inclined drive and I havent gotten used to the amount of power I gotta give her. So since I still am starting by bybpassing the Solenoid I dismounted. Well, Its been Windy out today and when I dismounted I lost balance and she tipped over. I stumbled away and ran back to get her back up A little bit of gas was on the ground. So I turned the Key to off and took off the seat, tilted her upright to get the gas back in carbs. I let her sit for a couple min and then turned the key back to the ON position. My headlights came on. I tried to shift into Neutral and the Neutral light wouldnt come on. So I shifted alll the way down and popped it up into the Neutral position. I pressed the START button and the Oil light came on. Ok.. so then I tried my turn signals and they wont work. Then I started her. Sounded good. No slips or anything. Still No neutral light. But my RPM gauge wasnt moving. Nada. I held the clutch after she ran a bit and shifted to first. Still no RPM. So i pulled the Throttle and the RPM gauge worked, but definatly not the right RPMS. 1k sounded like 2.5k. So I'm a little worried!! What did I inadvertantly do!!!?? Fuses maybe? Knocked them out or blew them out?? I'm real worried.. She runs fine! all cylinders firing and whatnot... The Tachometer works fine. So what gives??
Sorry again for the long post
-SLKid

 

Take a deep breath - probably not as bad as you think. Check the fuses that is a good first place to start. May have gotten gas where it shouldn't be but by now it should be dried out.

I'm surprised it started back they usually flood when they go over. Check you connections while you are at it - may have knocked something loose.

 

Sounds to me like a loose fuse or connection somewhere. Shouldn't be TOO hard to trace out. Good luck kid!

 

Thanks guys. I was freakin out or anything. I figured as much actually. Cause Nothing mechanical was wrong. The only thing that worries me the most is the RPM gauge. Its ncie to have. I can operate without it, but I like being able to tune her by RPMS you know? So tomorrow after I get off work.. again.. I'ma look at the Fuses. There is four screws on the dash and thats where to find the fuses right? I'll tighten all connections and while I'm at it disassemble the starter button and clean it up. Would REALLY love for that to work. Taking off my seat looks silly.
-SLKid

 

I'm not sure about the 700, but on my Seca's tach there is a small circuit board attached. It interprets the ignition pulse and drives the needle accordingly. If your bike took a spill, then something on the board may have been jarred loose or damaged. The bike is 24 years old after all.

On the other hand, it could be as simple as a loose connection somewhere as everyone says.

 

I'll be sure to check into the circut board too. I'm not sure if the 700 has one but I'll find out.

 

No circuit board on the 700's.

Nice new avatar, sushi...................

 

That should make isolation of the problem simpler then.

Thanks Len. First person to correctly guess it's origin wins a prize.

 

Australia?

Disney Land?

P.S. what is the prize?

 

I got a new headlight, the old one died. So while I was in there I cleaned all the connections with elec no residue cleaner. I cant seem to get to the Fuses! I the screws are rusty and I chance stripping them. I'll get some rust remover and try to get them out later tonight after they sit. My RPM gauge works fine in 2nd, sluggish in first. Maybe I jarred it. Anyone know how to readjust the RPM gauge?

 

I don't know about other bikes but pretty sure the only fuses on the bike is under the seat. Then again I never looked in my headlight bucket on the maxim, but the SECA didn't have any fuses in there. BUT my SECAs electrical was hacked up by PO... O_O

 

700's have the accessory circuit fuses up in the "dash", under the gauges.

The main feed fuse is in a smaller, waterproof fuseholder that's located under the seat/side panel area.......1100's also use this separate main fuse configuration, but their accessory fusebox is under the seat.

All models with a "Atari" guage cluster (750 Seca, 1982 750 Maxim, 650 Turbo) also use a small 5A in-line fuse in one of those translucent plastic "spring" fuseholders, within the harness, way up near the cluster......nowhere near the under-seat fusebox.

As dpawl notes, NO bikes use fuses inside the headlight bucket.

 

i guess it's a little late now but always put the side stand down before you get off the bike
the other part of that is never stand on the left peg when you get on or off, it puts a whole lot of pressure on the side stand

 

you sure about that?

 

Pretty sure! Although I guess I should clarify that to say no XJ 1980-86 models use fuses inside the headlight..........

 

82 xj 750j
inline fuse in the bucket

 

Are you sure it's IN the bucket?

 

it was last week, why where should it be?...............never mind don't answer that

 

Perhaps on the other models it is outside of the bucket? Maybe I'm thinking of the Seca or Turbo models.............didn't realize that it was inside the bucket on the 750J.

 

I have a feeling that one is still outside the bucket.
At least supposed to be. lol!
Gets aweful hot in that bucket too!

 

Well, I found half the problems on my bikes starter today. I decided to jsut unwrap the old elec tape down my wires from the starter button and there is a section chopped out and replaced with yellow wire. The connectors the PO used were not crimped properly either. So I cleaned the connections and pressed them on tighter, but to no avail. I'm going to recrimp the wires in a day or so, but I still think the probs in the fuse box. I need to aquire.. something to get those stuck screws out. PB Blaster and WD40 didnt work.
-SLKid

 

Do I get to say "I told you so?"

The fork caps on BOTH of my 550 Secas were rusted in place. I could tap them down, they would not come back up nor come loose to allow me to change the oil/rebuild the forks. For OVER 8 MONTHS I put WD40, PB Blast, JB80, Liquid Wrench, CRC Freeze-Off, and every other penetrant I could find in there, to no avail.

Then someone here, I believe it was Alkasmeltzer, suggested Kroil. IT WORKED surprisingly well, one freed up within 10 minutes the other soaked an hour or so and it popped up. Applied in the second bike, one of the caps popped up while I was still squirting the Kroil in, the other as soon as I turned my back. It actually worked BETTER on the bike I hadn't tried all that other garbage on.

Not makin' this up, bud; this stuff works like nothing else. I'm a natural-born skeptic but I'll tell you I am impressed. Here's a link to their "Google offer" 2 cans for $12 shipped. Best $12 I ever spent. http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

 

Lol, yes you DO get to say I told you so
I'll try it out! Thanks for the tip Fitz!

 

If it works for you as good as it did for me, thank Alkasmeltzer; I never heard of it before either. I was gonna drill the damn fork caps and this stuff popped 'em loose like NOW.

 

The Kano Kroil, "Kreeping Oil" is one of the best kept secrets of the modern world. Don't know why for the life of me. I have used it for many, many years, thought everybody knew about it until recently. I think the operating principle behind it has something to do with the orbits of Mars and Jupiter, or possibly the amount of ozone in the lower latitudes. Nothing else can explain what it does!

 

LOL! I'll have to order some on Friday. Payday! Woot woot