bike idling high

hi everyone. i just got through cleaning my carbs and put them back on my bike.
the bike is a 86 maxim xj700 with 15,500 miles
it is now idling at 4000 rpm and won't come down.
i did the obviouse and backed idle adjustment screw off, and loosened the throttle cable.
when i cleaned them, i removed the plugs over the idle mixture screws and set them at 1 1/2 turns out.
i set the float level at 11/16 at the back end of the floats.
i also put an aftermarket air filter on it. it is like a K and N filter, with an oiled element.
when i was putting the carbs back together i was questioning the choke assy linkage.
someone had been into the carbs before me, and i put them back together the same way they were.
if the little fork things that move the choke plunger up and down is on upside down, could that cause the bike to run at high idle ??
right now the screws that hold the forks in place on the choke rod are pointing down a little. if i was to switch them around the screw would be pointing up a little.
i hope this makes sence to someone that is familliar with these carbs to be able to tell me right from wrong.
if the problem is not in the choke assembly, what else could be causing the high idle problem ??
i will try to post a pic of the carbs to show what i am trying to get across.
thanks in advance for any help and guidence with this problem.
ron

http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr74 ... 9_1631.jpg

 

what did you use as a gauge under the butterflys when you did the bench sync'? if it was too thick your throttle stop won't come off enough, after the bench sync' you should be able to hold the rack up and see just the smallest chink of light under the butterflys.

 

hey wizard, thanks for the response.
well i didn't make any changes to the adjustments on the carb linkage when i took them apart.
with that in mind i didn't think it would matter what i used when syncing the carbs. so i got 2 very small screwdrivers to use for a guage that measured the same diameter. then i put 1 screwdriver under 1 butterfly, and then measured the drag with the other screwdriver under the remaining 3 butterflys. no adjustment was needed. now after reading your response, i got to thinking about my carbs during rebuild. when i got them put back together, i do not think there was any gap between the bottom of the butterflys and carb body. if this is true, what is it telling me ??
thanks
ron

 

If that is the case then either the thottle cable is too tight or maybe you have the choke / throttle cable switched, it's been done before.

 

have to say no to both. i have already checked those things to eliminate the simplest things.
i am questioning the positioning of the fork pieces that open and close the choke / enrichner valves.
as asked in my first post. someone has had the carbs off before me, and i reassembled them the same way that i took them apart. i do not know if the forks are installed right or not.
if they are wrong could it cause the idle to be high ??
can someone take a look at the link to my photo in the first post, to tell me if they are installed rightside up or wrongside up.
after reading more posts here, i am going to check for vacume leaks. for the amount of time this bike has been setting it would not suprise me if some seals weren't leaking.

 

looked at your pic' they are the right way up.

 

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I'm with the Wiz.........

 

thanks for verifying the choke linkage. i am going to be taking the rack off the bike again and will be needing to replace some of the parts. first parts are the screws that are in the boot clamps. air box boots, and intake boots. the screws are to worn to try to use again, and i am hoping the screws can be replaced rather than the clamp assembly. i don't think any hardware stores would carry these, but i could be wrong.
thanks again for any help
ron

 

Use a 3/8" Strip of 3X5 Card as a Feeler Gauge at the bottom of those ButterFly's. That will leave the Idle Rod able to CLOSE.

Get a Highly ACCURATE Mechanics Ruler -- 6" Long with 32nds, 64ths, 100ths and 1000ths --

Fabricate a "Depth Guage Tool" -- A Rod that fits the Inside Diameter of the Pilot Mixture Screw Housing and will Sit ... Flat ... atop the Pilot Mixture Screw.

(You can wind Masking Tape on a Drill Bit Shank or around a Big Nail)

Set the Flat Top of the Pilot Mixture Screw to:

Cyl. 1 + 4 [13/64ths] of 1-Inch deep within the Hole
Cyl. 2 + 3 [09/64ths] of 1-Inch deep within the Hole.

See how it runs set there.

 

here is where i am at now.... i went out and started the bike cold, did not use the enrichener.
it started and idled at 1000 rpm for a few minutes. as it started warming up, the idle started to climb.
i started pushing down on the throttle linkage. that did nothing.
i then pushed down on the enrichener tops, and the idle dropped.
when i was putting these carbs back together after cleaning, something about the enrichener assy just was not right.
basicly, the assy was slightly opening the enrichener plungers when i was tightening the linkage up.
getting back to today.... i shut the bike down. i removed the enrichener linkage, i started it back up, and no more high idle.
now i got it tuned, and running sweet. it starts right up, it's got crisp throttle response, and idles at 1000rpm, or what ever i set the idle screw to.
something is not right with the enrichener linkage on this bike. i assume that i have all the right parts, but they are not assembled in the correct way.
i got this bike a few months back. it was not running, and someone before me had been into the carbs.
it appears to me that they did not put the enrichener linkage back on correctly.
is there any where i can get a detailed drawing of how this is supposed to be put together ?? or does anyone have pictures of this assy that i could get a look at.
i will try to post all the pics i have of these carbs so you can see what i have.
again thanks for all the help that's been offered here. it's great to find a forum like this !!!!
ron

http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr74 ... 1629-1.jpg

http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr74 ... 9_1630.jpg

http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr74 ... 1631-1.jpg

http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr74 ... 9_1632.jpg

http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr74 ... 9_1633.jpg

http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr74 ... 9_1634.jpg

http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr74 ... 9_1635.jpg

http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr74 ... 9_1636.jpg

http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr74 ... 9_1631.jpg

http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr74 ... 290111.jpg

had to put up a pic of my chopper i have been building for the last few years. hope it's ok ??

 

here's a picture of my rack, don't know if you can see anything that helps.

 

thanks wizard !!! i see one thing right now, the piece that the cable end hooks to, that is screwed to the rod, on my assy is reversed from yours. the way it is on mine, there are 2 metal tangs that are being stopped, or limited in movement by the cable end support, the piece that is screwed to the carb top. that may very well be the cause of my problems. i am going to have to replace the little set screws that hold the forks in place before i can reassemble it, but i am pretty sure that it will solve my problems. thanks for the help man !!! i will let you know how it turns out. i am glad i didn't have to remove the rack again. i think i have an old set of honda 750 carbs that i might be able to get the screws from. maybe i can get it done yet this eve
by the way, i like your tops !!! nice touch man!!