Most RedNeck Tool Ever Made

Ok. Take a look at THIS and tell me this isnt the most pathetic thing you've ever seen. I couldnt find a Dang thing to make this SYNC TOOL look professional... except the fuel lines. Woot.
I searched high and low today at Wal-mart, K-mart and Home depot and found nothing that i didnt already have a home.
Ready?

 

looks don't matter in this instance funtion does.

I made a coolant removal tool for my sled out of a milk jug 3/8" tubing and a shop vac last year. suction applied to jug tubing in coolant resevior coolant goes into jug but not into vac. was a very redneckish lookin thing but it did it's job well.

 

Kind of smart if you ask me! Thats coming from a redneck though.

 

It looks almost identical to mine, but I have real rubber stoppers from home depot. Two different sizes though!

And my hose between the two bottles is fish tank air tube, and the other hoses I got from home depot.

I have yet to try it, hopefully Wednesday.
Have you used yours?

 

I get to try mine today or tomorrow! As soon as my last shim gets here I'll install the shims, and then use my sync tool. In theory it should work fine. I'm going to have to put it pretty close to the engine cause my vac attach hoses are only close to 2 feet.
I sucked on both ends to see if it'd hold a Vac and it did. Got the middle tube filled wth ATF. So, shooouuuld work!
We're 100% sure that the ATF+4 wont hurt my engine or carbs??
-StreetLegalKid

 

If you built the rig right the ATF will never touch your motor anyway. Even if the balance is way off all that will happen is all the fluid will immediately get sucked into one bottle or the other. Your vacuum tubes look like they are high enough up that fluid won't get to them.

 

There's something seriously wrong with that setup.




There's no duct tape!!!

 

Kid, do you have the YICS port plug tool? If not, you won't be able to sync the carbs still.

 

I agree, it is kinda funny. A friend of mine made one similar to this one to use on his Yamaha and it worked pretty well. He made one because he did not want spend the money on buying one or paying a mechanic.

 

Could you make one to do all four carbs at onc? 5 bottles. 4 bottles with two connections, one to the center bottle and one to the carb. The center bottle would take 4 (from each of the others). All the tubes connected to the center bottle would have to go near the bottom of the center and side bottles. The ones going to the carb would only go into the bottle a little bit.

 

And Remember, if the woman don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy....

 

I think it's possible... but my god I think it would be hard to deal with/handle.
Probably have to mount the bottles to a block of wood or something.

 

No.. I dont have a YICS Plug Port Tool... Whats that? I've heard that term before, but whats it for? Whats it do? Would I need it if I do an Elec Sync instead??

 

Our bikes have this thing called "YICS". Look on the side of your bike, the crank covers say "Yamaha" with "YICS" underneath.

YICS means Yamaha Induction Control System. It's a fancy way of saying that they cross-drilled a passage though the entire cylinder head, linking all cylinders. The tool blocks off this passage so that you can sync your carbs. The air flow is supposed to cause the fuel air mixture to "swirl" and combust more completely and more efficiently.

Some older bikes don't have this, but yours is newer so I'm pretty sure you have this feature.

Chacal sells the tool for like $30-ish dollars.

 

Is that the bolt that sits in the very middle of my cylinder head? The one that is in the center underneath my carbs?
Can anyone explain to me what blocking it does? And I've seen a few tools made, anyone have a few instructions on how to fabricate one? I made a sync tool, i'm sure that making a "blocking tool" shouldnt be too too hard

 

You can build the tool, or you can buy it, or you can do the Rickomatic method and soak a few strips of clean tshirt in marvel mystery oil, stuff it in and plug it up. Just be sure to PULL it out when done, rather than try and push through like I did... O_O Not fun getting that out!

Find someone local you can borrow from if possible, or just buy if from chacal. Finding the parts to make it right is really not worth the hassle with Lens version being $30.

 

Inside that tube are 4 tiny tiny holes that allow the fuel charge to SWIRL going into the cylinder.
It allows the carbs to share vacuum- which when trying to sync them, you need to isolate them from each other. Not possible with the YICS port. So you need to block all 4 holes in there. And yes, it gets real hot in there. So just a tshirt plugged in there won't work, it will burn up.

http://home.westman.wave.ca/~jbe/YICS.htm
That's the YICS tool you can make, but ask the guys on here what to use for parts. I know if the seals are not right, they will melt, and that's a messy situation! Just as easy to look up Rickomatics tshirt version on here, or buy the one from Chacal.

 

Take a look here:

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=586.html

 

So you can use a T-Shirt dipped in Mystery Oil??
Why cant you just stick a peice of metal rod in there???

 

Kid I tried most of the workarounds - buy the tool it's worth it. You won't only use it once - trust me.

 

Yeah.. You're probably right. I'ma search around and see if anyones got one around here first. Get my shims in today or tomorrow and cant wait to tune her.

 

after seeing your synch tool i am thinking we need to have a contest ... thats pretty redneck man ..... you would be impressed with my quad setup

 

HA ha, what the grand prize for the "Most RedNeck Ever" Contest?!

 

Kid, a metal rod would have to be a dead perfect fit, and it's not possible unless you have the exact casting that was drilled out - and even then it wouldn't work because of the material that was removed to take it out.

It needs to be air tight. A metal rod with a bit of fabric around it to make a nice seal, soaked in mystery oil, might do the trick.

 

See THATS what I was thinking actually. Push a rod in there with some fabric and go to town. COULD work. Not 100% sure, but hey, if the t-shirt method works, but is messy, then why not try this?
Does anyone have a pic of the YICS port?? I have an Idea or two of where it is, but I'm not completely sure. Cant find it on Babbits Diagrams either

 

As far as using the T-Shirt and mystery oil, the problem with doing that is then retrieving all those t-shirt pieces when you are done ... it is challenging from what I understand, and requires a great deal of patience and diligence.

You can't simply use a 10 mm rod, because you need something to expand and firmly close of the ports. As I understand it, using just the rod will still allow air leakage. That is why the tool is metal/rubber/metal/rubber/metal/rubber/metal with a wingnut on the one end to tighten the rubber together and force the rubber to squish out.

I have to wonder if you couldn't use one long piece of compressible material rather than having to add the metal sections though.

Now, I use the word "rubber", but you don't really want rubber as the YICS channel gets hot and will melt something rubber. Silicon tubing rated to around 400 deg F should work. I don't believe the engine is supposed to get that hot, probably not even 300 deg. But you want to be sure it doesn't melt, or else you'll have the tedious job of picking out the rubber pieces left stuck in the TICS passage and ports. Probably more tedious than the t-shirt ...

 

You CAN sync without the tool, you just won't get anywhere near as well in-sync as you will WITH the tool. I don't have one, and I was able to get my carb's synced well enough for my riding.

I firmly support getting/making the tool if you can, but I just wanted to throw out there that you can accomplish a partial-sync without it.

Just my two cents.

 

Ditto on the pain to get the t-shirt pieces out. The tool is worth the price and Len will get it to you fast.

 

Yeah, its just <i>another</i> expense. Bla.. Get paid on Fri. We'll see.
Still havent answered my Q on where the port is. Thats the one directly underneath the carbs on the head right? Unscrew that bolt and the YICS port is accesible?

 

I'd answer your question, but I have a 82 seca 650. (non-yics engine)

 

Found a YICS on Ebay. Just browsing.
Its says you can leave it in there permanently??
Whats the purpose of that??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YICS-Eli ... ccessories

 

Mine looked about the same but I used glass baby bottles, a flat sink stopper cut to size and screwed the rings from the bottles back on. (Used channel locks to get them good and tight) I used fish tank tubing and drilled holes into the rubber stoppers.

I didn't use duct tape.. or any parts from a K car

 

kid, it's right under the intake manifolds and runs the length of the cylinder head. There's a 12mm or so bolt on one end. pull that off and there you go.

 

The purpose of leaving it in place would be to disable the communication between the 4 carbs, therefore reducing the efficiency of the engine. There is a reason the YICS was implemented. Who do you trust more, the guy selling this or the Yamaha engineers?

Also, I don't see any expansion mechanism to close off the holes. The device cannot completely close of the air movement. Substantially restrict it, yes. Stop it, no.

 

Check out this thread for info:

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=1 ... +tool.html

There's a link to fabricating a YICS tool one here:

http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/yics_tool.htm

Good luck!

 

What (tubing,fuel line) is safe to use when making the tool. Also where do you get it? I am going to help someone I know do the final sync on his bike and don't want to stick something in the YICS port and have it melt.

 

Just used bluepotpie's YICS tool tonight, worked great. It was bought from Chacal.

The rubber-ish parts actually started to melt a bit though, and I think some came right off... not good, but not hard to fix. Gotta find the right stuff to put on there.

As far as that ebay one goes, I don't think it's an expansion style tumble- It has o-rings... so you probably have a hell of a time getting it in there, and even worse coming out, assuming those orings don't melt.

I as well would like to know what is best for the tubing, so I can fix Andy's 'chacal special' yics tool since my bike melted it!

 

haha, i looked the tool over and i think it's still ok. it looks like a couple pieces of the rubber got sheared off somehow when removing from the port, doesn't look melted. Looks like it'll still expand and seal just fine though.

 

What kind of name is bluepotpie anyway.

The kind of name that gets you kicked out of every bar in Durham?

ha - ha!

 

Don't leave it in there. From what I can tell you YICS guys get better milage than us non-YICS guys. (I get easer carb tuning aparently in as the balance act.)

 

I wasnt planning on leaving it in. Why would I decrease my babys power!? I was just curious. People are strange on E-bay. I'll probably order one this or next paycheck. I cant wait to sync her up. Then after that I gotta color tune her to finish my tuning process. Hooray
-StreetLegalKid

 

So Plastic baby bottles DO NOT work. They collapsed under pressure. So i got a pack of three glass ones at Wally World for 4 bucks. Gonna try it out tonight. I'll post some pics on MidnightBlus fabricated tool contest

 

Glass bottles are working great. Good call guys. I tried with an improvsision and look what happened. I'm lettin Maxine cool off a bit before i finish syncing 1&2 and 2&3.
Is it normal that when you're syncing that your Idle wont want to run right?? I kicked the Idle Adj. Screw out a bit to get it higher than 800, but shes still... "Fluttering" in her Idle. Is it cause of the ATF Fluid/gases?
I'm going to set the Idle Mixture Screws all out at 2 turns to see what I get. Then concentrate on my plugs after I get them synced.
-StreeLKid

 

xyxj650 You asked What (tubing,fuel line) is safe to use when making the tool. Also where do you get it?
Chacal has the replacement rubber bits. I got a set of 3 from him for $2.50-3.00 something like that, I just remember that it wasn't much. I've yet to use them, the bike is still in pieces but, soon........very soon, I'll be shouting at the top of my vioce from my dark garage like Dr. Frankenstein, "IT"S ALIVE, IT'S ALIVE!!"

 

Cool! I will look him up!

 

SLKid - did you bench sync?
Also - did you take it out for a ride before syncing? It needs to be warm.
And no, it should run the same with the vac bottles attached as it would with caps on.

Did you remember to leave the two cylinders you WERE NOT working on, plugged up?
Did you remember to stick something in the vac line going to the petcock so that cylinder is sealed while syncing as well?

 

Yes. Did a bench sync. But no it was not "warm" How are you supposed to bench sync with it on the bike anyway? You gotta remove the carbs to bench sync. Sounds like a good way to get burned
I left the ones I was not working on plugged
I left my vac tube for my petcock on while I synced. I jsut switched what cylinder I was using for it.

 

I didn't say to do the BENCH sync when hot, haha.
Just the regular sync, it should be warm when you do it.

Do the bench sync, go for a few mile ride, come back and leave it running with a fan on the cylinders.

You say you left the vac tube for the petcock on while syncing - BUT did you PLUG it up on the open end (where it usually attaches to the tank)

 

I left it on the tank. I never disconnected it. So, instead of using PRI I ran it in the ON position. and switched intake nipples when I was syncing

 

You must have a really long fuel line and vac line... not sure a vac line long enough to do a sync is a good thing.