I need some help on my hitachi carb rebuild

I have tore apart, cleaned, bought new seals, adjusted floats, and cleaned everything including the non-removable jet at the bottom of float bowl. I originally had throttle shaft seals leaking (misting on either side of me is a better description) is why I undertook this rebuild. Thanks again chacal for all the parts. I put everything back together and while it has not been synced I can't get it to start, without using starter fluid, on its own. Once it’s slightly warm it will start without fluid. Another issue I am having is once running after it has had a sec to warm up - you even touch the throttle it revs up fine but takes forever to come back down to idle. I checked the throttle cable for binding and everything looks good there. This is a side note my throttle cable is too long due to my shortened handle bars – anybody know where to get a shorter throttle cable?

The number two thing happening is the number 3 pipe is not getting warm signaling a no fuel, low fuel situation in that cylinder (its marked number 3 on the spark plug wire). I took some clear tubing and checked the float level, which was off so I took it apart and checked it out turned out the float was stuck in place (probably from putting together dry). Put back on bike same thing again except now the pipe is warmer but no where near the heat the other three are putting off. I only do the heat test with my hand before the bike gets hot (not too crazy about blisters ;-), once hot I use a squirt gun with water - its not a great test method but use what you got. I rechecked the float level again and seems to be right on but its not filling up after it has drained - has anyone ever had a brand new float needle get stuck?

I’m using the fuel tank off the bike on prime as my source of fuel. Could this be affecting the fuel getting to the carbs? The tank is above the bike on a shelf again had no special fuel bag to use so I used what I had, three feet of extra fuel hose.

Any ideas for getting my old girl up and going please let me know? I am going to have a shop in town sync the carbs for me, but I don't want to pay extra to have tear apart and refix my carbs after I went through all the trouble of learning to do the rebuild by myself.

 

what's up doc? had to do it
lets assume for now everything else is right and just do the sync part
first, did you do any kind of bench sync? reason being the #3 cylinder problem
#3 is the key the other carbs are adjusted to it
the screw between 1 and 2 sets those to each other the screw between 3 and 4 sets 4 to 3, the screw between 2 and 3 sets 1+2 to 3+4
now the idle speed knob moves 3 and 3 takes everyone else along
are you still with me ?
it's possible 3 is shut completely off and the unsynced 1,2,4 are still open and keeping the engine running

 

I used a thin paper clip method but I may have not sync'd it in order. I was a little confused on how to proceed when I did it. I was however unaware that 3 was the key and I will have to go back and redo my sync. Is there a better way to do a bench sync?

 

Lol I get whats up doc every now and again it's all good

 

the order on a bench sync isn't really important, just so when you back off the idle knob they all close together then open together when you turn it in
personally i look at the little holes on the top of the engine side of the bore
and adjust to them but the paper clip or matchbook cover is fine

 

Ok I’ll go back and re-sync and try again tonight. I don't remember using the throttle knob to check if they open or close, I might have used the throttle cable lever to open and close - don't know if that matters. I remember making sure they were closed on the bottom but not if they were opening and closing they same. I was burning the midnight oil scratching my head going what the heck is going on?

 

just use the idle knob to set 3 to a point, whatever method you choose
then use the sync screws to make 124 match it, then the idle knob should open and close them all simultaneously (thank goodness for spell check)

 

Brand New Floats WILL get Stuck!
Dress the Float Valve Chambers with a >> Tightly rolled-up section of 1200 (Or finer) "Cigarette" of the Finishing Paper.
Cut the end flat across.
Stuff it into the Float Valve Body until it bottoms out then twist the Rolled-up Finishing Paper in the Bore.
Finish the Float Valve Bore by making 10 or 12 twist revolutions.
Remove Finishing Paper.
Cut-off the end flat, again, ABOVE the stain on the Finishing Paper.
Do ALL four Float Valves.

Dress Float Pins:
Wrap 1200 Paper around Body of Bic Pen (Hex-body)
Tape Finishing Paper so it stays tightly wrapped.
Hold Float Pin with Needle Nosed Pliers with Jaws dressed with Shrink Wrap or Masking Tape.
Play "Miniature Violin" finishing the "Contact Surfaces" to be Perfect.
Pins:
Solids: >>> Do NOT Finish the Tip.
Tipped: >>> Do NOT Disturb the Rubber Tip ... But, if there is an OVERLAP where the Tip is seated on the pin ... smooth it out.

Geometry:

Assemble Floats.
Eyeball how Pin behaves in VERTICAL axis with Float Movement with its "Lifting Wire" on BOTH Sides of Floats Tang.
Use the BEST Vertical Geometry if one side is Better than Other.

 

Thanks I will try that in addition to redoing my bench sync

 

Hey thanks for all the suggestions!! I took my bike in for the final sync and they asked me why I even brought the bike in . By sanding the float needles and seats made for some real effortless movement of the needles. The only real issue they noticed was that my idle air screws were too far out. Any suggestions on dialing in the idle air screws - the ones on top of each carb in case I’m using the wrong term - or should I just save up for the color tune plugs? Again Thanks for all the suggestions!

 

You should examine the condition of your Spark Plugs after a Ride.
Note the COLORIZATION on the Spark Plug's Center Ceramic Piece.

You want to see some Color on those ceramic Pieces.
Clean or too Light indicates the Mixture is too Lean and Burning too HOT.

Brownish Color indicates the Mixture is OK.
Especially Dark means that the Mixture is too Rich.

 

how far out are your screws? does it idle okay and, like Rick said, what is the color of the plugs after a ride?

 

It idles good but I know that after she gets real warm, temprature wise, I know the idle starts to drop in RPM's. Not enought to stall out the bike but enough to where I have adjusted the idle screw up only to have the next morning running to high in idle til she warms up. I haven't taken out the spark plugs just yet they were brand new when I put them in. I will take them out and take a look at them

 

Examining the Plugs is something you need to do ... "Right Away."

A Cylinder that is NOT Rich enough and fires on a Super-Lean Mixture will have the mixture go-off like a Flash-bulb.
Too fast and way too hot.
The Super-lean Mixture will burn so hot and fast that it will also consume and burn anything it can use as fuel.
What it does burn is the Lubricating Oil Sheen on the Cylinder wall.
Eventually, there will be serious problems as a result of burning-up the lube.

Accordingly, the Mixture is Hot and Explosive.
The HEAT generated by a Super Rich Mixture may exceed what the Engine is capable of handling.
The Aluminum Piston and the Cylinder Head Combustion Port can begin to be reshaped and melted leading to a major breakdown.

 

Okay I pulled the spark plugs out and took a look two of them are a bit brownish in color looking good so far but the other two have some odd color. On one the ceramic part is blackish on one side and on the other side it’s a reddish color and the electrode is a very similar color almost rust looking? One of the spark plugs is reddish all the way around. They all have this reddish color on them just more so on the two I described. I wonder if because the plugs barley have 60 miles on them this is why they aren't brownish yet? Could water in the gas be causing the rust or rust color?
One of the plugs, #2 cyclinder, had a bit of oil on the bottom and on the first two threads I think that might be some oil slipping by the valves after I turn the bike off?

 

Okay I know what the red is now it means that the gas I bought was from a cheap gas station - I used 92 octane - but they put additives in it that apparently leaves a red deposit on the spark plugs. Other than that they look clean not any white or bubbling porcelain.